Be advised that not all siding that looks like T1-11 is T1-11. At one time the Masonite company produced a siding that was pressed wood fiber and a binder or similar. That is not the same as T1-11, a multi-layer wood material. The fiber material was removed from the market after lots of lawsuits over failures due to water damage causing it to disintegrate. There is another look alike on the market that is supposed to be as good as T1-11. I used some to repair a tractor incident in my shed about 5 years ago and it is beginning to swell at the bottom from splash. The 20 year old T1-11 old wall is in perfect shape. Except for needing a coat of paint.
Very informative. I see other RU-vid videos that show that the Everbilt is NOT waterproof like Tyvek, and BOTH are quite expensive. Since you are only covering a small portion of one wall and I would think you would want it waterproof (especially where sprinklers overspray or rain splashes) why couldn't you use a 6 mil plastic sheet ? It would cost a fraction of Everbilt or Tyvek and would be waterproof, especially if you seal the staple heads and any seams.
@@CountryLivingExperience Exactly, this one has caused massive problems, and they waited too long to go for a much easier repair, Now it is a mess. Your video will go a long way towards sorting this one out. I'm hoping the base plate of the wall is not ruined, as well. Cheers to you!
I have a shed that is about 50 yr. old built with T1-11 siding and with 2x4's 16" on center. Part of the siding on 3 sides rotted and I removed with a circular saw. I cut the siding 1 ft from bottom edge at front, 18" from bottom edge on side and 8" from bottom edge on back on based on location of rot on each side. No vapor barrier was installed when shed was built, so any if I install before screwing new siding the barrier will be visible from the inside of the shed, so it would not look right when inside the shed with the barrier visible and at the 3 different heights. One option I don't want to do because of time involved is cutting the front and back siding same height as the side (18"). Installing paneling inside to hide the vapor barrier is not an option because there is a lot of shelving that would have to be removed that would take a lot of time and $. 1) If I treat the back of the new T1-11 siding with a brush-on waterproofing before replacing, would that be sufficient instead of using a vapor barrier? If your answer is yes, what waterproofing do you recommend? 2) I wasn't able to cut the siding very straight, so after I attach pieces of the siding would it be ok to attach treated 1x4's over the seams of each side instead and attach a piece of quarter round moulding on the top edge for water run-off instead of using flashing if I seal the moulding with silicone after installation? There are 1x4's installed vertically at each corner, so installing treated 1x4's over the seams would look ok. 3) I prefer to use GRK exterior screws for attaching the siding...what size/length do you recommend?
Thanks for your comment. In my opinion, unless the shed is a livable and conditioned space, I would not worry about a vapor barrier. It will serve no purpose to place it only behind small pieces of siding at the bottom of the wall. Painting the back of the siding will do nothing. If moisture gets behind the siding, it will rot the studs, sill plate, etc. That is one major purpose of the vapor barrier. A layered system is how to prevent water entrance into your building. Take the time and make everything straight. It will alleviate problems in the future. Placing silicone with the moulding is not recommended. The quarter round will not do much and you will still get water behind any wood piece like that. Flashing behind the wall as I showed is the best recommended method to prevent water entrance at that point. The length of screws don't make much of a difference as long as the siding is secured properly. I hope this helps. Have a great day.
Great video!! after cutting old siding please block to studs and nail siding 6"on center on the edge them prime all edges of siding 3/6 or 1/4 will help I like your advise to install tyvek 4" under old paper .thanks
I suggest that you seal and paint the back side of siding and most importantly the top, bottom and joints. Use the best 100% silicon you can, nothing else. Anodized pre-formed aluminum flashing won't crack like this plastic stuff. Adopt an attitude that you're building a boat, that is the mindset you need.
The flashing is currently not available 😖 Thank you for sharing the how to, its on this years project list! Our shed NEEDS repaired! And suggestions on brands of good paint?
Not sure how it is in your area but in Florida to do this repair the permit office is requiring block bracing between all the wall studs where the old and new siding butt together.
Interesting. It may be the same here in certain municipalities. We are out in the county so there is no permitting for something like this. Additionally, this is a diy repair.
One more question, where you leave the gap above flashing (to prevent wicking), what stops critters from crawling up in there. I live in TX and termites/ants can be a big pain.
I also live in Texas. Fortunately termites cannot crawl over that bent angle on the flashing. (just like a termite shield) You can put some sealant on the underside of the flashing where the bottom replacement piece of t1-11 butts up underneath. That will prevent them from getting in that way. If you are on a crawlspace, it is important to have termite shields on all of your piers to start.
The better thing to do is replace the whole 4x8 section so you don’t need to put the drip edge in. This works, but it doesn’t look as nice and it adds a lot of extra steps
@@mitchberning1595 not all t1-11 is 8 foot lengths my house has 9 footers that are 5/8ths thick and they are very hard to find. No big box store carries them. At least not in that thickness.
Hello, thank you for the video its very detailed and informative. I have never replaced siding but might need to soon. Why was the flashing put below the old siding / above the new siding? Could you put the new piece flush with the old piece and seal it with epoxy or something and then put the flashing under the new piece so it is at the bottom?
You can put another piece below the first. That would be called a butt joint. The problem with a butt joint is that no matter how well you seal it or try to get it flush, there will always be water that can get in the joint. The flashing prevents water from getting in that joint. That is why the top remaining piece of siding needs to not touch the flashing or water will wick up the piece too. This is the correct way to do it for water mitigation. Or if you have the money, you can replace the entire piece.
Great video!! I have some T1-11 rotting at the bottom due to soil building up too high. My home sits on a hill so there is no way to do a clean cut across the bottom of it all. Not every panel has rot in it, would you suggest just replacing the bottom of the individual panels that need it? Should I still install flashing at those locations, or is paint enough to prevent anything getting in where the new/old panels meet?
Thanks for this video. I bought a house in a rural area and we have the same siding. Some of the very same problems you show are what we have. I haven't cut anything away yet but I'm afraid that there's zero moisture barrier. If that's the case, do you recommend that I just replace the entire sheet?
You're welcome. You would have to so some investigation. That rot could have traveled up behind and done some other damage. If you need to wrap the house, just replace the whole sheet.
Great video! It's just what I was looking for to address the problem I'm having with my T1-11 siding. Unfortunately, HomeDepot no longer carries that flashing - at least that what it says when I select the link. All they seem to have is Z flashing with 90 degree right angles. The flashing you describe has a 45 degree profile. What are the dimensions of the flashing you used if I have to search for it elsewhere?
Thank you. I think I remember the flashing being 3"x1"x.5". I wish companies were not having such terrible supply chain issues. It is hard to find good flashing profiles now. I may have to just buy a metal brake and make them myself.
Why didn’t you just cut your damaged siding at 45 degrees and your new piece at 45? Prime the ends and install. Water won’t leak up through the 45 degree cut.
Not expert, but just bought (1) sheet of 9/16" T1-11 from lumber yard to do a similar job. Paid $70 vs $38.46 at HD. I think quality does vary for T1-11, and that's why spent the extra $ to ensure max lifespan for the replaced 1' of T1-11 along base of wall. Also/FYI: lumber yard had dark brown Z Channel, which wasn't available at the big box.
I'm going to build a deck against the house and will be removing the cheap wood siding, first. I want to replace it with T1-11. Can I attach the ledger board to the new T1-11? My house is tall, so what would I use to seal the top and bottom panels where the seem would be?
Never directly attach a ledger to the building unless it is flashed over the top and that flashing goes up behind your siding. Using standoffs is a much better solution. You need a piece of Z flashing between each seam of the T1-11 sheets.
0:24 If you fix that crooked cinder block I will subscribe, I love these homesteading/DIY channels, but that is going to trigger my OCD every time, LOL. A car jack would probably lift the deck enough to slide the block.
Lol. We actually did fix all of the block on that side of the house. Used a couple of bottle jacks and some jack posts. Everything is nice and strait now.
Omg, exact gap size i hv behind my t1 11, except theres a plywood sheet behind it every other 5 feet. Also, did your replacement board sit further in then the upper board?
Great video! Question: What do you do about the z-flashing when you have to cut the horizonal line at two different heights? We have a two-foot cut right by the back door, to the west of it, but the A/C guy suggested not cutting up that high behind the A/C, so we didn't have to deal with all the electrical stuff that has to do with the A/C. He suggested a cut there of about one foot up, which is one foot below the cut next to the back door cut. So the z-flashing won't be in one continuous line, so I'm worried about leakage between the two boards. We were going for the same height of a cut all around the house, for appearances' sake, but it makes sense to avoid all that wiring behind the A/C.
Honestly I would try to cut it at all the same height if at all possible. It will look strange if it is at all different heights. You should be able to move the electrical stuff fairly easily.
@@CountryLivingExperience Wow, I really appreciate your getting back to me so quickly! I don't mind the difference in the look, but I'm a rather small lady working by herself, for the most part, so working around the electrical would be more do-able. Any advice, if I have to go forward with the two different heights in this one area? It will be the same height at all the other places around the house.
@@camdenwise5816 It is honestly going to be a challenge to change heights and butt the siding on the transition. Just make sure you paint the ends of the boards really well and then seal with some caulk when you are done.
@@CountryLivingExperience Alrighty. And would you suggest still using the z-flashing, or just using the caulk to seal it off, and leaving the z-flashing off?
At minute 6:25 ..... Isn't there usually some kind of outer board that covers the home and then the tyvek sheet is put over that ? I think I've ever seen tyvek put on open studs and insulation??? I'm confused
You’re correct. This home was built in rural Texas 42 years ago and did not adhere to conventional building standards. The siding on the building acts as the sheathing instead of having both with the tyvek between.
at 4:28 you mention using a moisture meter to check for rot in T1-11. What readings should I be looking for? I had an inspection done and was told readings between 5% to 15% are good. Below 5% is rot. Do you agree? Thanks, Joe
Not sure who you had at your home checking this but anything around 12 to 15% is not great. 20% is rotting. 5% is really good and normal for a house Wood you buy from the store is about 6 to 7%.
WOW!! Thank you so much!! The readings he showed me were between 1.5% and 4.8% along the bottom of my T1-11. He stressed the point of "Dry" rot. It really pays to ask for second opinions and not get scammed. I really appreciate your help. 👍
@@joeskoien You're welcome. You did say just "rot" in your original comment. Dry rot is a bit different. Dry rot occurs when the wood has been exposed to moisture for a long period of time, rotted, then dried out without reintroduction of moisture. Dry rot is a thing but it is not necessarily related to moisture content. If your wood is dry rotted, it needs to be replaced. Thought I needed to clarify. You can test it by taking your finger or a strong stick and trying to push it through the wood. If you dent it or your finger goes through, it is dry rotted.
Thanks again 👍I checked it as you said and it was just fine. You not only saved me money, but also time because I was gonna begin repairs myself (with the help of your videos of course). All I really need to do is paint. I has been about 7 years. Appreciate all your help 😁
Put it in the same position. It will only prevent water from sitting on the top of the new piece of siding instead of diverting water from above and protecting what is below.
I forgot to include that I added felt paper. It is placed between the stud and siding. The felt paper is 6” above the cut in the siding and down to the bottom plate.
what's best is to use oil base primer on the bottom edge of the siding you don't need 1 3/4 flashing for siding you should should have invested in a coil nail siding gun your wasting time doing it by hand What's the point in caulking the staples you put in how are you going to seal the finishing nails you put in behind the siding you just put up? Wasn't that the point of the flashing????? The flashing and the exterior paint is going to be what protects what's behind the siding If there is water getting behind that point, you need to seal the windows that are above it or fix the wood rot that is above that point I do this work every day and diy does not mean you know what's going on Water rolls in one direction down hill I do this for a living so
Check your arrogance and realize there are 5+ ways to do this. This is a technically correct way of doing it. I have been an Architect for 15 years so don't pontificate to me and tell me to buy tools I cannot afford.
This is amazingly helpful and exactly what I was looking for. Do you have any additional advice for a situation where the rot is happening because siding is butted right up against deck wood? It seems to make it particularly vulnerable to rot and I'm wondering what options I have to deal with that. Thanks!
Glad we could help. The siding should be at least 1/2" above those deck boards. The deck ledger should be flashed with metal. If it is not, you may have a big problem like I did with rot beyond just your siding. I would pull off the deck boards and check or cut the siding as low as you can. You'll have to investigate.
Just curious, why would you not put sealant on that gap left between the upper old siding and the flashing? Can't water still get at the end of the old siding with that gap there? (Getting ready to attempt some siding repair, maybe..)
Sealant will hold any water that could eventually get behind the siding from escaping. This would cause mold and rot behind inside the wall. The siding sits a minimum of 1/8" above the flashing so no water will touch the bottom of that siding. If any water does touch the bottom of that siding, it can easily and quickly dry out. Additionally if there is sealant there, it could trap moisture from that accumulated on the flashing against the bottom of the siding. Hope that helps.
@@CountryLivingExperience Thank you. I was going to copy the handyman's work that did some siding on my house and he put sealant on the flashing space so thought that was what I should do. Glad I asked...I am just starting this project, and today removed decking attached to siding and found lots of rot on siding and into the rim board...might have become a "contractors job" now, was going to try and save some money...It cost me $400 for the handyman to attach two half sheets of siding (36 in. height . 12 ft long) to the bottom and I went and got and bought all the wood for the project, so I thought maybe I could learn how to do this myself. My 74 yr old body is telling me today after tearing out the decking and dragging it to the trash pile, I may have over estimated myself... :) Thank you for an excellent video and quick reply.
You're welcome. Yes, doing it yourself is best if you can physically handle it. I am an Architect practicing for 15 years and worked with really high end builders in Washington DC and Houston. Unfortunately, the handyman did not do it correctly. That is common to find.
You need to overlap the z-flashing by at least 4 inches to make sure water doesn't get behind it. Be sure and check with CountryLivingExperience to make sure that's right.
How did you get the new house wrap up behind the old paper? You showed stapling the new wrap on, then voila, it was 5 inches behind the old siding. I’ve been doing similar repairs and the worst part of the job is getting the new up behind the old. What’s your secret?
I have rotted spots on lower edge of siding. The problem is its behind a gas meter so its difficult to get to. Is there a way to just waterproof or mend it there?
It really depends on how far the rot has gone. You want to also find our Why it is rotting there and try to prevent it. You can paint it heavily if there is only a small amount of rot. Biggest thing is to stop the water from entering that area of the siding.
Thank you very much. There is a water spigot near there which leaks it is probably the cause of the rotting. what would you use to mend it? i was thinking the Crack filler (Yellow stuff)Then the white paint that is used on the flat built up roofs.
@@hikechoco Unfortunately you will not know how much rot is behind it unless you tear it apart and look. You need to get it dried out and replace what is damaged and repair the leak.
@@CountryLivingExperience some of the sheets I'm using are repurposed and had rotted parts trimmed off, so no lip. If I owned a router, I'd just make a new lip but I don't, so I'm wondering about another option, haven't had much help with google.
@@CountryLivingExperience I just paid $69 for the same sheet you paid $18 about a year ago; ahhhhh, the good ole days. Originally I was going to just caulk the new seam... but the flashing you used looks so much better and a more integrated install = less chance of leaks.
I have this identical issue on my house. They did not install the deck correctly and it has caused water damage on siding and within house. But the flashing installed at knee level of side just seems odd visually.
Well, you can do whatever you want. Visually odd or not, it solved the problem correctly which is the intent of the video. If you don't like it then just replace the entire sheet of siding.
@@CountryLivingExperience The House Addition which is a small tools room is also build on the same beams as the deck. The rot on the siding has also reached the subflooring to the addition. The deck ledger has 1 screw at the deck end and likely a screw or two which would be located under the addition. I can move the ledger upward about 5cm. So all this said I am guessing I have a lot to work on and replace, to include the ledger and beams, which were only toenailed. So replacing the siding which is T1-11, with a wood siding that matches the deck may be my best bet.
That might be your best move. Or you can make the knee height cut, insert the flashing, and put a 1x6 piece of trim directly underneath with the new t1-11 behind it or course. This would give you a larger visual break between the two areas. It would look more intentional.
I have T1-11 siding and I go around periodically tapping with my fingernails. If I find a soft spot, usually around windows or near trim, I coat it with 2-part epoxy and paint it. I have been debating coating the bottom of the sheets with epoxy, but I don't know if that makes sense or not. How about soft spots? Can they be drilled and injected with something? Thanks.
All those soft spots mean that you have water constantly getting in at those points. You have to take care of the cause of the issue. Unfortunately, using an epoxy would be a waste of money. The amount of epoxy needed would cost more than buying a sheet of t1-11.
@@CountryLivingExperience I am not going to go to the expense of replacing a sheet of T1-11 for 1 or 2 soft spots the diameter of my thumb. I would like to find something to inject it with and use the epoxy or caulk to fix the source of the water penetration.
In my experience, rot rarely starts from the painted front. It’s generally getting in at a seam up higher, running down the back, and rotting forward. So a soft spot means something bad is happening deep in there. A sheet is $35 at HD- while trying to repair soft spots might be cheaper now, better off in the long run diggin in there and looking for the root. I generally do and almost never like what I find 😂
There are endless types of flashing but it must have the same shape. All flashing has to drain water off of an angles piece in the front that drains over the lower material.
Hi, great video as I have the same problem on my shed. The flashing link for home depot is no longer available. Can you provide any information as to where to purchase such flashing.
Good morning. I checked the link and Home Depot is currently not carrying the product. I don't know when they will have the product back in stock/available. They are the only place that I have found the correct one. I checked Lowes, Amazon, and Grainger with no luck. All local building suppliers in my area also did not carry the product. If I find anything, I will update the video description with the new information.
Hello, I think I have have similar looking t-11. 8 inch thickness and 1 inch thick groove. I am not able to find one with 1 inch groove. Could you please share how you found it? Any online options to buy?. I also has 4 inch and 5 inch siding with q inch groove on rear of the house.. all these spec is getting harder to find
My siding is actually the 12 inch. It was easy for me to find at my local hardware store. We found it at the Home Depot. Here is the link....www.homedepot.com/p/Plytanium-Plywood-Siding-Panel-T1-11-8-IN-OC-Nominal-19-32-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-0-563-in-x-48-in-x-96-in-113699/100000016
Simply because sealant wears out. Flashing does not. You can butt joint them but doing it how I showed is the proper way to repair it unless you replace the whole sheet.
Very helpful, this is going to be my weekend. Any particular T1-11 or is it all standard? This will be the largest patch job I've ever done, basically the whole lower 2ft of one since on my house.
Cool. Not all t1-11 is the same. First there are different spacing of the grooves. Second, there is a product called Smartboard which looks like t1-11 but is thinner and is made a bit differently.
@@CountryLivingExperience thanks for the heads up. Looks like I won't be doing it anyhow. My neighbor's house caught on fire yesterday and my siding burned. A pro will be handling it now.
No, absolutely not. That gap is there to let any water out if it gets behind the siding. If you put caulking in there it can trap water and your siding will rot. Hope this helps.
You just leave it like that? No kind of blending it in to the existing piece to make it look like one piece? That looks horrible. I'd rather replace the whole T1-11 board.
This is not a design video. I am showing you how to technically fix it correctly. If you carry the line of the flashing around the house it will look cohseive. You can put a 1x board under the flashing if you like.
I agree Joshua, I always talk my customers into replacing the full sheet, but....sometimes, sadly, people can’t afford it or don’t care what it looks like....just as long as it works or passes home inspection for new buyers. This works just fine even if the house wrap staples rust to shit in one month regardless of the silicone dabs, it’s hold up. Definitely need to seal those cut edges. Rain runs down the walls and rests at the edge where it will slowly wick up into the t-1/11. Oil primer, and heavy sealer is what I use, plus 2 coats of paint
@@Mike_Spor Just spent $70 for (1) sheet of 19/32" T1-11 that I cut into (8) pieces 12" tall to do the Z channel repair along a 32' wall. With current lumber pricing, expect only very wealthy homeowners would buy (8) panels vs saving $490 on (7) more T1-11 panels doing this repair!
I just did some OSB vertical siding repair (similar to t1-11). Other than sealing and painting the bottom edge, what do you recommend I do to make the edge more rot resistant? I understand that it is water splashback and moisture wicking that caused the rot. I'm thinking of attaching a piece of primed and painted 1x6 along the bottom edge. Is that a good solution?
It is mostly just the moisture wicking that causes the problem which is why the bottom of the siding cannot touch the flashing. Water always enters at material transitions. If you put that 1x6 on the bottom of the siding it will have to be caulked and sealed very well to prevent water from seeping in between the two materials especially if the 1x6 protrudes out beyond the siding piece. To help drain the water off the 1x6 (if it does not sit flush with the siding), I would chamfer off the top corner of it. Hope that helps.
I have a mobile home and the hardwood has splits in the wood due to age, heat and humidity this winter. how do I fix this to keep summer rain from causing more damage underneath? the exterior caulking did not work due to the AZ heat
Your siding needs regular painting to avoid that cracking. It needs to be protected somehow. Try caulking late in the evening or very early in the morning to avoid heat issues and giving the caulk time to cure. If it is just one sheet of siding, just replace it. It chould cost you no more than $25
Awesome video and great work keep them coming! One question I have the exact same siding as the one shown on this video and for the life of me I cannot seem to find it anywhere, I want to match my existing siding but what I find at Home Depot don't match any advice? Thanks.
Thank you. Glad it was helpful. For me I couldn't find it at my local Lowes or independent hardware store but I did find it at Home Depot. You just have to keep shopping I guess. Maybe ask a manager to order some in for you.
4x8 sheet wood siding is short life and needs constant maintenance to last, it can fail in as short as 5 years or last 15 if you are lucky, after the first 15 it is near the end. Terrible stuff. One step better than a mobile home.
@@CountryLivingExperience Being anti tea party doesn't make you a communist. Look at what's happening in the UK, they tried to do what the tea party is advocating, which is to give tax cuts to the rich, and ended up spooking investors. Also if Ron Paul is anything like his son Rand Paul that would be terrible for America, he's basically promoting Russian propaganda in the US to help Putin revive the USSR but without the communism, it still has the nukes and authoritarianism.
