UPDATE: like people mentioned in the comments here, the cheaper version of the belt that I mentioned in the video did not last long, less than a year. I purchased this OEM version and the quality is much higher; amzn.to/41L1IZb
Ah, the good ole Timemaster. The true tease in the Toro line. It's great, until it ain't. Belts, Pulleys, you name it... you better be good working with your hands if you own this thing, because you'll be spending your 'time' 'mastering' fixing this damn thing.
Transmission, cables, eats belts like they are nothing, rear wheels and pulleys have all been replaced at least once. Other than that, it’s a great piece of shit.
Ty brother very informative. Lost alot of self confidence after the loss of two loved ones but after watching your step by step video I changed the belt you honestly you helped restore some of my confidence. Ty
My 8 year old timemaster blade just stopped cutting. Sure enough the belt snapped. I watched your video and ordered the belt from Amazon you recommended.
I have had several issues on my 2016 Toro 30 in TimeMaster. It NEVER starts hot. There was a recall to change the crummy paper fuel filter, but i solved that design flaw, where the fuel feed is only 1/2 in drop from the tank outlet to Briggs 120000 series engine carb. I lashed on my Honda GCV190 Tank and a nice long hose, with a Disc filter and Shutoff valve from Home Depot. The Briggs recall is to install a metal HEAT SHIELD between the cyl head and float bowl, to fix hot restarting. I often do better than that, just get some silver foil faced R-MAX foam insulation, maybe cut 3x5in,, smash a recess to fit behind the float bowl with a small hammer, and shove it in place above the black plastic belt guard cover. surfaces, that worked for a few years,then needed to cool things down with Starting fluid or Gumout to restart hot. I then replaced the carbs several times with the inexpensive ones on Amazon. Worked a little better than Briggs OEM. FINALLY, I did replace the Magneto coil and shutoff switch, but yesterday PROVED THE NEW ONE IS INTERMITTENT. Got an adjustable Spark Tester, set for 10KV gap or larger - NO OUTPUT!!!!!!!!!!! Then I took the old one, sanded the pole pieces and TAPED the entire HV lead with 3M Electrical tape, and split the plastic insulator sleeve from my new Spark Tester, covering the CHAFED section where the muffler heatshield abradedi it. BINGO, it finally started! I then checked the Compression cold, but forgot to open the throttle plate - it read almost 30lbs. We also replaced the crummy HEAD GASKET again, with the 2nd gasket in the $42 Amazon kit, which HAS A NICE METAL fire ring, but is for the 223CC Upgraded engine all the Yard Service guys pay $500 new, to finally fix the underpowered temperamental 190. I found the old gasket BLEW OUT near the Exhaust side, a second time, vapor from all my Starting Fluid was coming out. Another telltale sign was the 4 head bolts were NOT TIGHT. I should have retourqued to the 125 in-lbs spec AGAIN after a month. Since 70lbs seems to be the spec for these 190CC motors, I WILL be buying a new Piston, Rings, and Wrist pin set, and the 2 different length Rod bolts to raise the crummy 30lbs that is causing stalling issues. And my friend set the VALVE clearances ay 0.006in, AFTER INSTALLING THE NEW thicker gasket. It starts if I put the choke rod in, but soon I fave to remove it, and flip the choke spring 180 degrees over, to the main governor spring post, r it will bog down too rich! When I get anther $500 saved up, I am going to Toro Menders in ATL to buy a replacement 223CC engine, and a new DECK for another $100. Final note, there is a Hi Lift Blade kit, including a new front V shaped shield that bolts in with the front wheels assy - critically IMPORTANT, IT USED TO just fill the chute with grass. ------------- for the past 8 years it will FILL the bag with even wet grass- My thoughts, nothing else is safe on my sloped back yard, and at 150lbs for me, I can easily handle this 135lb mower. Just skip the $200 more Electric Start option, because it will be clunkier to use there. Just my thoughts after 8 years of Time Master troubles. And I replaced many broken cables, worn bearings, and belts Fyi, Hilary in GA
I love the timemaster, but I am annoyed at having to replace these belts so often. I've had the synchronous belt fail again a week ago, and while replacing that, I noticed the blade drive belt had a big ol' crack in it. I thought I just replaced that one not too terribly long ago! Also replaced the wheel drive belt last year. I'm buying multiples of these belts to have on hand knowing they'll all fail eventually.
I am going to be replacing this same belt when I get home from work tonight. Been watching a few videos on the job today just to get a feel for what I'm going to be doing. pretty much everyone is doing it the same way, so pretty confident I can knock this out in about 20 minutes. Out of curiosity after some time has passed, how long did that new amazon/generic chinese equivalent belt last? I read a TON of reviews online that the cheaper amazon version of the belt wore out and broke again very quickly compared to the OEM belt. any 'long term' feedback on that particular belt's longevity/quality?
@@howtofixitworkshop I know I probably always will. There are only a few dollars more for the piece of mind. And I think every year after I've replaced it at the beginning of the next season I will probably buy another one to have on hand because it does seem like these things kind of eat belts like crazy lol. At least it's not super arduous to replace
Not to bad mouth OSHA, cause they really do some great things that have saved a lot of lives and limbs, but sometimes someone in the system goes overboard, trying too hard to keep us safe. So, Toro had to come up with a system to disengage the blades while still running. Trouble is, as the engine has no throttle control and is running full speed, it's impossible to not put extreme stress on belts. That's one of the reasons Honda got out of the small engine business. Too many expensive safety and EPA compliance restrictions to continue profitably. Heck, now California wants to ban all ice for all yard maintenance products. On another note. Wnen one buys those Chinese products, saving 20% but getting 50% less product, we then only get what we deserve. We create that race to the bottom product quality effect. Then the oems think well, since no one is buying the quality product, we don't need to stock as many replacement parts and also what stock they do have, we have to store it longer, so that cost more too.
Is the 'drive belt' going to the transmission AND the 'blade belt' going to the blade engage the SAME belt? Do I order two of them or what? I am changing the blade engage cable and I noticed the blade engage belt has cracks all along its length, only the fabric on top is keeping it together.
@@howtofixitworkshopThanks for the reply, but your description shows only the one belt (A low and a high quality blade engage belt) but you have no link for the drive belt that goes to the transmission as you show being replaced at the end of your video.
Dang...you skipped the part that I came to RU-vid for....how to get the new belt 'fed' over the lower trans pulley. Getting the old one off was easy but the new one seems too big to get past the lower nut.
Yeah that is the hard part. I've had to replace this belt again and you have to remove that pulley from the trans and pry the trans back up into it's slot then replace the belt
Please stay away from the Amazon belts, I have replaced 2 this week with each one lasting about 45 minutes. Go ahead and pay the 30 dollars for the original OEM belt
What a piss poor design. Just starting my 4th year with this mower. 2nd year the engagement cable broke. The cable was rusted. Why doesnt the factory pre lube it with graphite, just like speedometer cables are. Got that replaced under warranty. Im sure its another dry cable just waiting to break again. Now the drive belt shredded. My last self propelled mower lasted 20+ years. Only thing i replaced was the drive wheels.what bothers me, will that belt even be available years from now. I paid $900 for it. Now 4 years later i see its $1599.00 now!!! Thats over a 50% increase in just 4 years!
Yeah, it's just another example of planned obsolescence. But wow! I can't believe this mower is selling for $1600 new now, I bought mine 6 years ago for about $700!! I've replaced a couple cables and a couple belts a few times, but other than that it's been a pretty good mower overall. I have an extra drive belt in my garage just in case, maybe I should purchase a few other spare parts to have on hand. And I better give mine a tune up so that it lasts for many more years to come, I certainly don't want to think about buying a replacement in a few years.
@How To Fix It Workshop I found a much easier way to remove transmission belt. After bending that stop tab out of the way. Just get a set of large Channel Lock pliers and simply and easily rotate transmission, and the belt nearly falls off. Same for putting back on. There is no need to fight that darn tension spring. Figured this out because I have a severely injured, painful elbow and am basically almost 1 handed till it heals up. Lawn mowing was a little tough one armed. Lol
I've actually had good luck with my 8 year old mower other than replacing belts and cables. I agree it's frustrating but now I keep extras on hand for when they break and I buy the OEM parts instead of the cheaper versions.
Awesome video, and very informative. Are you up for a brand collaboration. Hipa supplies high-quality after market parts for small engine equipments and we are looking for youtubers to work with to share more tips about small engine repair and maintenance.
