i know im asking randomly but does anyone know a tool to log back into an instagram account? I was stupid forgot my password. I appreciate any tips you can give me
I'm a trained mechanical engineer and have been wrenching on my own cars for 20 plus years. Yet again, your tutorial video is the absolute best! No nonsense, comprehensive with great explanations and visuals. You deserve major credit (and probably a serious raise) for the work you do.
I don't even own a Mazda but love watching these series! Great work using hand tools (many of us don't have air tools) and great camera work! 1A auto and their mechanics are awesome!
great video! mine was the exact opposite. shock is fine, shock mount broke into pieces. took the guess work out of it before i jumped into the repair. also good to see that all mazda 3's look that rusty...
Awesome. Just paid 1200 yesterday for a CLEAN looking 05 Mazda 3. Great price! Needed rear shocks replaced and needs AC compressor work, but you Ma'am, just saved me a TON of money on the rear shocks part of the job. The shop wanted almost 500 dollars to replace them!?! I did it myself and only paid 80. I appreciate it, truly!
For those without a vice, you can swap the top mounts by laying the shock on the ground, stand/step on the end of the shock sticking out of the sleeve and using the oblong shape of the mount on the ground to hold it in place so neither part turns as you turn your screw driver. I used a ratcheting screwdriver on the nut while using vice grip pliers to hold the stud.
One thing I notice often is that people don't care enough to do simple things that prevent problems later on. It would only take a second to spray some rust prevention on the top mounting studs when finished. If those mounting studs rust away or strip the threads then, it becomes a major problem. Most rust around windows is caused by windscreen fitters chipping the paint and not resealing it. Let's take just a moment to care for others
Great vid as always. To deal with the shock top nut: You can push the rubber bump stop down, grab the shock rod/shaft at the very top (right below the shock mount) with curve jaw locking pliers. The shock cylinder will never travel in this area, so its ok if the rod/shaft gets a few teeth marks in it from the pliers. Sand them off with emery cloth afterwards if its a concern. Stay gold.
Well done video. Mam, you did an excellent job. I wish i had all the equipment primarily the vice otherwise I would be good. I have a mazda 5 and considering the rust, I would be very liberal with the anti seize on the bolts.
The rear suspension should be jacked up to the normal ride height before fully tightening the bottom bolt. This prevents additional torque being loaded into the bottom rubber bush. So when vehicle is at rest, the rubber in the bottom bush is in a 'neutral' position. Also +1 for female working in an engineering related field.
This job is easy on a lift, but on a small jack the lower bolt is a real challenge for Canadian salted cars. And once you heat the bolt with propane no turning back bc shock has been heated.
The rear suspension of my Mazda 3 squeaks loudly when going slowly over bumps. It's a consistent squeak without any clunks to accompany it. The sound is like a rubbery version of opening a door with a poorly oiled hinge. I though it would be the lower end of the shocks, but now seeing how the shocks are actually mounted (i.e. in a way where the only deflection that happens is in the rubber itself, not any rotational deformation), I'm running out theories. Any ideas what it could be? Track control arms have been changed. Sway bar bushings have been changed. The only moving parts left would be the bushings of the lower control arm, correct?
The mounts on this car are crap. I'm going to replace my rear shocks today and it's mostly because the mounts broke again. The third set to be installed on this car. The job is super easy when you replace the mounts at the same time.
Hi, I had same issue. First mount broke apart and after replacing it shocks got stuck and new mounts broke either. Ended up with pair of new shocks and new mounts.
You forgot one thing only...when tightening bolt you should put some car paint on thread to prevent unscrewing due vibrations and lack of appropriate washer.
Don’t waste your time hand wrenching. Get an impact gun and call it a day. Two mazda stores here, 5x Mazda owner, 20 years+experienced mechanics. I ASSURE YOU they are not hand wrenching this job. I promise you that. My friend literally just did this with the impact and was done in no time. Also the new shocks come with the boot cover so you don’t need to waste your time with the transfer. Informative video but very Amish
it was an alright video she should have used a torque wrench for the install. i stopped watching when the strut wasnt torqued to the mount... seems a little unprofessional. still useful to see how easy the install is though thanks!
How do you torque the mount to the strut when you have to use vise grips to hold the center bolt to keep the inside shaft from spinning while you tighten the nut that goes around it? Im kind of new to this so maybe there is some sort of pass-thru torque wrench that i dont know about? Regardless, Mazda doesnt mention or give a torque spec for the bolt attaching the mount to the strut, only the two bolts that attach the mount to the car, and the single bolt at the bottom that attaches the strut to the wheel, all of which she torqued. **Edit: Leaving this here just because I have the values handy, in case someone needs to know them that comes across this comment... Upper nut torque specs- 17-20 ft lbs Lower bolt torque specs- 59-77 ft lbs
