How to Replace Screen Glass On iPhone 14/13/12 Cracked Screen Repair 

Hello, thank you for your comment! Great question. The rough texture underneath is actually the protective film for the glass. It should be removed prior to installing. You can peel it with your fingernail. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day.

Wow, good to know, thanks for the quick reply 😹👍

@@ecdiy How much glue do you use for the 13 mini? You had said you'd include the amounts for other models but I don't see them in the description. Thanks!

​@ecdiy where can you by it from

1.6mL with our glue. I have no idea how I never received any notifications to replies on a thread. I'm so sorry.

Not a problem at all. Thank you for your kind words!

Good point about the seal. I’ve seen many iPhone 6S poorly repaired by not doing this seal. I’d say it’s a MUST for proper fix. Thanks for sharing this helpful videos

@@grandtheftauto1233 For sure, on other devices too. I don't think many people clean the frame to newly machined cleanliness which is crucial for maximizing the water resistance. It's gotta be squeakin to prevent a leakin!

A nice and slickly edited video. I'm sure it works, but add two or more hours to this if you're doing it yourself. It ain't that easy as in the video, trust me. ;D

Would you by any chance be willing to share where it went wrong? I recently had novices try out this repair on site to see if there would be any common errors; #1 was not keeping the wire tight and low as it enters each corner. It needs to be low so that it is touching the glass layer as it slices into the glue layer as mentioned in the video @4:20 #2 was not cleaning the screen to be squeaky clean, thereby the transfer of the oil/smudge/dirt on the screen making the gel pad less sticky (can be cleaned to restore) Pretty much in line with some of the customers who had contacted us after an unsuccessful repair. For #1, even after I had advised them of this, it seemed by the time they got around to the other side, they needed to be reminded. Also, we're getting stronger and larger gel pads made to allow for more room for error when it comes to #2. A longer guide with repeated emphasis on this is being prepared as well as a helpful tip in having a helper hold the hairdryer/heat gun as that makes it so much easier so you don't have to switch hands between that and a wire tool but I would love to hear from you. Ultimately, I want everyone to be able to succeed replacing the glass only. I do not benefit in any way shape or form when someone fails. I do not even have other parts to sell when someone fails. There are quite a few repeat customers/customers who order the refills and I would imagine those who decide to get into this don't want others getting into it. Any questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us.

Thank you for your kind words!

1.6mL, so sorry just saw this. I removed the glue amount after receiving a couple of concerns as other glues would not work the same mainly due to the difference in viscosity and density. The glue amounts are stated on the page provided with the kit.

Thank you so much for bringing this to our attention! We do indeed have the kits for the minis, they are listed on our eBay store where you can see us having sold over 80,000 kits but I do see that they had yet to be listed on our site! Thanks again for catching this mistake. I just fixed this and the minis are available on our site now. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further.

Are you cracking the corner to make it easier to pry the top glass open?

Youre making that little chip that made that iphone untrade-inable

The frame of the phone was over lapping onto the screen

@@skksjsdkdkd4371 Bingo! The frame was dented in which would have made it difficult for the screen to come out as well as make it impossible for the new glass to go in.

Not quite sure what you mean by liquid glass treatment, but I wouldn't recommend applying anything to the underside of the replacement glass as it may affect how the glue adheres the glass to the display.

@@ecdiy look up Cellhelmet liquid glass, it monocularly changes the glass itself, it’s not really a coating

If you have someone that can hold the hair dryer/ heat gun and monitor the temperature so you don't have to switch hands and focus on slicing through the adhesive, and you soften the adhesive holding the display to the frame with isopropyl alcohol so that the removal of the display panel is done smoothly, I'd say less than 2 hours. Otherwise, 2~3 hours. It is important to note every cracked screen is different and some can take longer (i.e wire can get caught on a broken piece of glass in multiple spots, requiring you to re-spool and change the angle) and hair dryer does take longer to heat the screen to the correct temperature than a heat gun to heat up. The phone important thing again is for the wire to be held tight and low as it enters each corner. We still have customers who do not achieve a successful repair because of this one error despite the repeated emphasis and putting on a large sticker with a warning sign on the tool bag guiding them to a page that states this. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

your going take 2 hours to take off all the tar black adhesive

I'm sorry to hear that your experience didn't go as smoothly as we had hoped. If possible, could you please let us know the order number and also when and how the OLED got damaged? This information could be valuable in helping others avoid a similar situation. We would be happy to make an exception for you to allow you to return the kit for a full refund even though some of the items may have been used. The bezel surrounding the OLED is thicker than the actual display panel. As long as the wire is kept tight and close to the surface, as demonstrated in the video, the display should not have come into contact with the wire and thus should not have been damaged. Also, have you had a chance to check our tips & tricks update page? The address is printed on a 4"X6" slip, which is placed at the very top of the kit's contents. We elaborate further on the opening process there, and following those steps should allow you to open the phone in under 10 minutes. If you have any additional questions or concerns, please don't hesitate to reach out. Feel free to comment here or contact us directly. We're here to assist you. Wishing you the best for the rest of your day!

The wire I use is a hybrid carbon wire and I personally use 0.06mm Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further. Best regards,

and I knew exactly which button to click for you saying that you clicked it! Thank you!

@@ecdiy Hi, just curious on whether you ship to South Africa?

We do ship to South Africa! I have no idea why I never received a notification for your reply. I'm sorry, but I'm getting to all the comments now and I will be manually checking regularly to do my best in ensuring all questions get answered.

@@ecdiy I actually forgot about this 😭 Noted for the next time I'm in need 🙌🏻

@@Jay-205 This notification I received this time. Strange. So many I never received any notification :S

For iPhone X, the bezel does need to be removed. You also need to be careful at the bottom (with the phone standing up) due to the flex cable running there. That is pretty much the only difference for the iPhone X~11 series, other than the difference in screw placement of course but those can be referenced from display swap videos.

Not a problem at all. Thank you so much for your kind words. I learned so much over the years which I haven't seen others share. I feel like I'm finally getting the hang of video making, and I'm not only committed, but also very excited to share. Happy New Year Gamera3331!

iPhone 11 and older devices require the plastic display holder bezel that goes around the display to be removed. You do want to be careful when removing the bezel by the bottom as if you try to do it too fast and without sufficient heat, you can damage the flex cable that runs across the bottom. Apart from that, the process is the same. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

Not a problem at all! The purpose of removing/lifting the module from the display is to keep it clean during the process. The OCA (Optically Clear Adhesive) layer used from the factory does get soft and a bit gummy when heated. As for why others remove it completely, I'm not entirely sure, but it may have something to do with the fact film based adhesive they use requires vacuum as well as positive pressure for the installation. Our method of using liquid adhesive does not involve such. A phone like iPhone 14 Pro though, you don't have to do anything with our method as the sensor is under the display layer. (On iPhone 13 and previous models, there is a physical hole where the sensor goes). Any further questions, please do not hesitate to comment further!

Thank you for choosing us! Please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further if you have any questions/concerns but the glass removal/gluing/cleaning process is actually identical. The location of the shields/sensors for the initial screen removal may differ but this can easily be determined by looking at others' screen swap videos as replacing the entire screen requires these steps to be taken as well. Have a great rest of the day!

@@ecdiy thanks for the reply! Do I need to replace the frame as well or can I remove just the glass and glue the new glass on?

@@Miccth12370 did you ever complete it successfully if so did you decide to remove the frame or keep it on ?

@@michael_jullie2836 I broke the lcd trying to separate

oh my, I'm so sorry, I'm just realizing I never received notifications for so many of these comments. The bezel stays on for iPhone 12 & up, (all the way to the 15 series so far), making this process easier than X-~11.

Thank you so much for your kind words! Means a lot to me. I'm trying to be better every day. Have an amazing rest of the day!

Every glue is different but with ours, 1.8mL is good. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

The problem with plastic is that it is a very soft material, prone to scratches and yellowing over time with UV exposure. Another "problem" with plastic for the manufacturers is that it's not fragile enough. I have wondered why no one ever made plastic replacement screen though. Maybe I should make it, it might make a cool video. *P.S I'm so sorry just found out comment notifications have not been working as it should have. Never saw one for this comment.

@@ecdiy xD, yeah yellowing is not great but it can be mittigated by additives and better prime product (also by removing a thin layer of material), and scratches are not a problem if you use a tempered glass screen protector, you would get the better of both world, the shock resistance of plastic with the scratch resistance of glass. Yeah no prob i figured :)

Hello Jonas, Thank you for the suggestion! We just finished sourcing & testing. iPhone 12 Mini as well as iPhone 13 Mini kits will be available within the next week or so. Any questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

Yes, PhoneRepairGuru or JerryRigEverything can't remember did video about it and called it "nearly impossible" but yes it's POSSIBLE

We're just completing the development of OCA Blade Nano, half the thickness of the original, twice as strong. I might take a shot at it but indeed the curvature around the rim does make it more challenging than iPhones.

It is called Stronghold LOCA. LOCA stands for Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive, there are several options but please kindly note many LOCAs require a separate UV lamp to cure. Ours is specially formulated to be hypersensitive to UV, so much so that exposure to daylight on a cloudy winter day is enough to cure the glue. Other parameters such as contractility, tensile strength and viscosity have all been fine tuned over the years for optimum results. Please note there are a few sellers infringing on our trademark, Stronghold LOCA is developed by us and is exclusive to us. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

Thank you for your support! Yes, I know what you mean and the process is the same. However, you'd need more glue for the iPad Pros. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further. Have a great rest of the day.

We do! and the process is the same. I'm so sorry just realizing I never received any notifications for so many of these comments.

It ultimately depends on the individual. If keeping the original retina display and not opting for an inferior aftermarket display which will trigger an "unknown parts" error message is deemed worthwhile, then this should definitely be considered. There are original displays available as well, but even those will trigger "unknown parts" message, It's also not an easy task distinguishing between fake vs real. For Samsung curved phones, I'd say it's a tough question because it is the hardest to replace the glass only on. Pixel curved displays are comparatively easier, and their flat displays are more manageable than that. Then you have iPhones 12-14, for which the process is the simplest. However, I do want to stress that when I say "easiest" I'm referring specifically to the glass-only replacement, which isn't an easy task conventionally. Any questions, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Here is my experience with such scenario. Technically, yes OCA can be stacked with LOCA. Even if the OCA were to make contact with the glass somewhere before the LOCA, LOCA will fill up to the area seamlessly. However, you will experience seepage of the glue out the sides because the lip on the bezel is only enough to accommodate for a single layer of OCA/LOCA but you will now have both and your screen will be assembled ever so slightly thicker than the original. (appx 0.08mm). it would also reduce the phone's water resistance. This additional thickness does not cause touch issues even with a tempered glass screen protector. That's been my finding on my end at least. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

Thank you so much Your insight is invaluable

@@jacobsaunders3577 Not a problem at all. Anytime!

Yes, none of the functions are affected. Even months after the repair the phone works fine without a single visual defect.

Thank you for taking your time to comment! In the next couple of days, there will be a shorts video showing the bezel removal process as well as what to avoid while doing it. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

Awesome! OCA stands for Optically Clear Adhesive, it refers to the film based version that is installed with special equipment (laminator/heated vacuum chamber press, and bubble remover/heated positive pressure chamber). Technically, pre-installed OCA can be stacked with LOCA. Even if the OCA were to make contact with the glass somewhere before the LOCA, LOCA will fill up to the area seamlessly. This additional thickness does not cause touch issues even with a tempered glass screen protector. That's been my finding on my end with our glue at least. However, it means the screen may sit higher than it should, off of the bezel frame for iPhones which can cause dust intrusion over time. We have glass without the OCA. If you are in the US/Canada, it would be $9.82 with shipping. Please feel free to contact us! Best regards,

@@ecdiy Thanks for feedback. i just find out preapplied OCA sheet can be peel off the glass. I am in europe..

@@shahsuleman7552 Honestly if you don't have any other choice but going that route, let me save you the hassle. I will send one for free as long as it's not a super remote area where the shipping is crazy expensive. While it can be peeled off, it is a pain from what I remember and it's easy to scrub off some of the bezel (the black border of the front glass: it's silk-printed) when cleaning the residue. Whereabouts in Europe are you? Do you have the bezel and the glue?

@@ecdiy Hi. i have new frame, loca glue, adhesive for water resistnace, UV torch.. I really apreciate that you will send 1 for free but i do not want you to send one. As for the oca removal. no need to scrub. it just peels out. the glass wil arrive in few days then i wil see if did not worked then i wil for sure order one from you. I live in Amsterdam..

​@@shahsuleman7552 No worries! Well, I appreciate you deciding to put the extra effort instead but my offer still stands in case you try it and it doesn't come off easily. It really depends on the OCA they used and how 'fresh' it is. They often don't come up as a single sheet, and you can be left with residue/fingerprints which can be a bit of a pain to clean to 100% streak free. We actually use PostNL for most of our international shipment and shipping to Amsterdam is pretty cheap relatively speaking. Happy to help. Best regards,

Honestly, after having done a few iPhone 14 Pros where the camera hole area is quite literally within the display area, I stopped doing the whole film cut-out thing. The glue is a bit viscous so a lot of times, when you follow the tips shown here (letting the glue spread under the weight of the glass only about 80~90% of the way and only gently pressing to fill the edges), there isn't a whole lot of seepage due to the surface tension. Worst case, it can be easily cleaned with Q-tip and isopropyl alcohol. I wouldn't worry too much about following the film cut-out tip but to answer your question, no when the glue first cures it's almost like a very thin layer of silicone, it doesn't have too much grab although it's strong enough to use without any worries of the glue lifting/giving out under normal use/drop. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further! Thank you for the sub! Have a great rest of the day!

For this repair, I used 0.06mm. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further! Have a great rest of the day.

Hello, thank you very much for choosing us! For iPhone X~11 Pro MAX, the bezel does need to be removed as noted in the listing. We do provide a separate guide for iPhone X~11 to cover the bezel removal, but the process otherwise is the same. The information can be found on our latest updates page (bit.ly/expresscelldepot) As a side note, this is also mentioned in the link above but remember to keep the wire tight and pinned low (to the work surface) when entering the corner so that the wire is tight against the glass. This ensures you separate the adhesive layer directly between the front glass and the rest of the display. I thought I had emphasized this point well in the video, as well as in the "must read" section of the updates page above, but we just had a customer not notice it and make the mistake today. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day!

@@ecdiy awesome, thank you so much. The guide is detailed

@@jaymaster103 Not a problem at all. Anytime! Thank you for your kind words!

Hello Keyah, Yes it does. Auto brightness, face ID functions all remain the same after the repair. Best regards,

Great question! Technically speaking, under proper installation, the phone should still maintain its water resistance. The tape adhesive used to seal it is indeed the original-grade IP68 adhesive. However, the reality is the level of water resistance achieved will depend on the installation. Both the mating surfaces need to be squeaky clean, free of debris, and good amount of pressure is required. (Applying heat helps also) While the factory-specified water resistance, which is 5ft submersion for 30 minutes is possible, it may not be easy for a novice, and the resulting water resistance may be reduced to the point where it can only withstand regular splashes or drops of water (for example, IPX1~IPX5). If you are curious as to what they mean, Googling "IPX ratings", you will find a helpful article written by Audioreputation with specific details for each rating. Ultimately, it's important to note that cracked screens are not water resistant either. So, when it comes to replacing cracked front glass, there isn't anything to lose in terms of water resistance.

@@ecdiy "cracked screens are not water resistant either" makes a lot of sense. Also, I had not given any thought to how clean the surfaces must be in order to get the best water resistance, very good point. Thank You for the informative response.

Thank you for your comment! I am very sorry for the disappointment but while I know the process of replacing the glass only inside and out, I'm not too familiar with issues like yours. It could be a number of things. It could be anything from a bad battery or a short in the PCB caused by water damage just to name a few. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further. Best regards,

@@ecdiy Appreciate the reply. Thanks :)

It’s DIY

It is hydrocarbon based resin which is different than poly(polyester) resin which is created through the reaction of a dicarboxylic acid with a diol. It can be removed more easily than the factory-original adhesive. It can be a bit upsetting to learn this, as you realize the manufacturers didn't have to use as strong an adhesive. Ours remain more flexible too which helps with the impact absorption and dissipation. When you go to remove it, it won't "roll off" like you see in our videos which are all made with original displays, it more or less gets wiped off. This gives me an idea actually, to make a video of me re-doing a screen that was fixed using the kit. Thank you! Any questions, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

@@ecdiy I didn’t see your kit for the iPhone 13 pro. Can you send me a link. Thanks

Hello, Thank you for your continued interest! It is available on our site, expertcelldiy.com/ We have grouped all the iPhone kits together, you'd simply need to choose iPhone 13 Pro from the dropdown menu. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day!

Thank you for your comment! The string, yes but alcohol no. Due to the flammable nature of the alcohol, we are unable to ship it through our shipping channel. However, it can be sourced easily from a local pharmacy/Amazon and stores like Walmart. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further! Have a great rest of the day.

For iPhone 12 & up, the bezel does not need to be removed/replaced for a glass only repair. You can certainly buy the glass only. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

No unfortunately lines and black spots are caused by physical damage to the display layer which is the layer below the glass layer. This technique is only good for replacing the outer glass layer which contains no electronics. There are very rare instances where a vertical line is caused by a broken piece of glass applying pressure on the flex cable that runs along the bottom which is resolved by removing & replacing the glass but that's quite rare. Best regards,

Yes it is. The shield location differs a little but you can reference others screen (OLED or LCD) replacement video or a teardown video for the exact location. Otherwise the process is 100% identical other than that you'd only use 1.8mL of glue for iPhone 13 Mini. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

and also how much glue should I apply?

@@VFXTIMEZ Hello, thank you for your comment and thank you very much for your purchase! There isn't anything that this video missed but I do want to emphasize 2 things. 1. To ensure the display isn't strained/damaged during the removal process, you'd want the adhesive softened enough to lift with the OCA blade alone as shown in the video with combination of 99% isopropyl alcohol/heat or both. Slice any adhesive should the need be. Lift from the LCD holder bezel & the display together, the phone's metal frame prevents the tool from going too deep when inserted straight in, so you don't have to worry about that. I do want to also note that 99% isopropyl alcohol does not conduct electricity so you can use the phone while you do the "Q-tip trick" but 91/70/60% may conduct electricity even if the other component is 'distilled water' so the device must be turned off until all of the alcohol is completely evaporated) The display opens from the right (Flex cables run along the left side). There are several display replacement videos for iPhone 12 Pro Max you can refer to if you'd like a visual reference as the display removal process is the same whether you are replacing the entire display or the glass only. 2. It is important to keep the wire low. Especially when you approach the top corners, you'd practically want the wire pinned to the work surface. This bezel that run along the edges being thicker than the display makes this an unlikely mistake but the bezel can technically flex and you can split the wrong layer of the display if the wire isn't kept low. You'd want to use 2.5mL for iPhone 12 Pro MAX. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. (contact us for the fastest response). Have a great rest of the day!

@@VFXTIMEZany update on the repair bro

Unfortunately no, if you are having ghost touch issues, something else is wrong. The glass layer contains no electronics and while cracked glass can cause minor interference with touch depending on whether you have glass missing anywhere or not, there shouldn't be any issues with scratches no matter how deep.

It's difficult to confirm without peeling the polarizer layer off but the damage shown here is likely the actual OLED. If you are careful, it isn't too difficult to do the glass removal without overheating the display. Just remember to take your time, expect to take 2 hours for the process vs 1 (I've done this a few times), as I mentioned in the video. If you have a helper that can hold a hair dryer/heat gun to maintain temperature, it can be quite helpful too as that's almost as good as having a heated suction pad machine. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

Thank you for the comment! May I ask where you see them? If you are referring to the discoloration at the top right, that is explained in the video (Thought it would be good/cool to show what happens when you overheat the display to emphasize the importance of keeping an eye on the sticker thermometer provided exclusively in our kit). I do think this video was poorly made anyhow and I am making a new one with different models showing but for now you can check out the latest iPhone shorts for repairs without such demonstration/spots.

Hello, thank you for taking your comment and thank you very much for your purchase! Please feel free to take a photo of the device and send it to us. I will take a look and advise you exactly how I would proceed with the repair/if anything stands out. If you do not have a second device to take the photo, you can stand the phone up in front of a mirror and take a photo of the device in selfie mode. However please also note that if you are having second thoughts about proceeding with the repair, it is not a problem at all for you to return the item for a full refund. We do offer free returns on all of our items/kits. If we can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day.

@@ecdiy i cut myself and made a line in the screen so now its useless

Yes there is, for iPhone X~11, you do need to remove the bezel unlike iPhone 12~14. Removal can be made easier by submerging the display in 99% isopropyl alcohol for 30 minutes to an hour (You can use regular scotch tape to block off the opening of the plastic tray our kit ships in; as shown in our latest shorts video). You do want to be particularly careful removing the bottom part as the display's flex cable is attached to the bottom of the bezel. If the bezel is removed without softening the adhesive and without slicing the adhesive there with the OCA blade first, it can cause the flex cable to tear. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

Also remember that iphone XR has LCD not OLED. If the glue leaks into the backlight layer you'll have stains on the screen because of loca glue getting into backlight layer so be careful

That would be 2.3L. Please note that this amount does vary from glue to glue. We specify the amount needed for each phone using our glue on the installation guide page, the address to which we print on the slip placed on top of the contents of the kit. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day!

Thank you for your kind words! I'm re-making this with details of iPhone 12 & iPhone 14 added, and making it more concise. I think I went off track a bit talking a little too much. To answer your question though, the glass does not have OCA already installed, it's just the glass that requires the LOCA (Liquid OCA) included in our kit to adhere to the screen. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day.

@@ecdiy thanks so much. Waiting for the next video on the 14 :)

@@ecdiy also just another question I bought a glass that has oca already installed. Can I apply that to the screen instead of loca and use in light to cure?

@@VokeFx I'm not sure but I don't think that pre applied OCA can be cured with uv light only. Think you need a special laminating machine for that

It depends on the glue, for ours I wouldn't say any, but most would work. Most household UV lights are UVA lights, either 395nM, 405nM or 365nM light. nM is stands for nanometer which is the measure of wavelength. They all work fine but 365nM will cure it the fastest. There are also UVB (therapy lamps) and UVC (germicidal lights). I personally haven't experimented with these. The timing for curing is a difficult to confirm though because it depends on the light and we found a lot of these UV flashlights overstate their strength/wattage. Our kits come with its own UV light but if you are trying others; Since there are a lot of variables, what you can do is dispense a droplet or two on a non porous surface like the plastic film the glass comes in, and use that as a test-strip, touching every minute or so under your light to see when it cures. Our glue will feel oily on the surface even when it is cured but it will cure to silicone-like consistency and you will be able to pick up the droplet as a dome shaped dot sticker when cured.

Yes, for iPhone X~11 including the XR, the bezel does need to be removed. You also need to be careful at the bottom (with the phone standing up) due to the flex cable running there. That is pretty much the only difference for the iPhone X~11 series, other than the difference in screw placement of course but those can be referenced from display swap videos. I'm so sorry just realizing I never received any notifications for so many of these comments.

Yes, acetone will damage the soft OLED layer. There are designated glue removers as well which some sellers sell. However, I recommend isopropyl alcohol because a lot of what gets sold as designated glue removers are N-Hexane, chemical which have been linked to multiple deaths at Apple & Samsung factories and have since been banned there. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further.

No, B-7000 is not optically clear, and it will not work for this application. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further! Best regards,

Yes indeed! You can change the glass again the same way. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

That is correct. The only 'correction' would be that, most iPhones now us OLED. The terms LCD and OLED are often used interchangeably, but they are actually quite different. Almost all modern touchscreens consist of the 3 parts and if the screen is cracked but respond to touch/display images, then it is just the glass layer that is damaged.

How easy was it?

@@fyzzic4088 honestly I wouldn’t go with it, just replace the whole screen, you got to do this a lot to not damage the solar & I work with intricate things all the time with work, the solar layer is as thin as a human hair or thinner almost impossible to not tear if your screens glass is shattered.

No, it wouldn't but we will have the kit for an iPhone 15 Pro in the next couple of days. The method is the same. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

​@@ecdiy Thanks for the reply. Could you reply to this comment at the time it is available?

The kit costs $30. I am currently not offering repairs as a service but I do occasionally do repairs for subscribers at random. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further! Best regards,

@@ecdiy do you mean the material costs $30?

Yes

Hello Istvan. That's correct. The nice thing about iPhone 12~14 series too is that the lip on the parameter of the plastic bezel which had to be there to accommodate for the thickness of the OCA (film based adhesive from the factory bonding the glass to the display panel) ends up acting as a 'container' for the liquid glue to spread to exact factory spec. It is indistinguishable. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day!

@@ecdiy Thank you!

Definitely. A heat plate works more efficiently and saves time for the repair. However, as heat plates don't have much application otherwise, I made this video with a heat gun/hairdryer in the spirit of DIYing.

Hello, Sorry for the delay! iPhone 14 Pro Max and 13 Pro Max glasses are not the same. iPhone 14 series are now available on our site www.expertcelldiy.com If we can be of any further assistance, please do not hesitate to contact us for the fastest response or comment further. Have a great rest of the day.

Do you sell screens as well? iPhone 14 Pro Max

No, only glass replacements.

If yes what kit I should buy ?

If yes, which kit I could buy from your site ?

If not, what you can recommend me if I broke the up right corner of the screen? Maybe I just should put the protection screen or smt?? Waiting for your response! Thx in advance!

Because I’m afraid of the water(((

iPhone 12 and 12 Pro are shown in our newer shorts video. The process is identical for devices from iPhone 12 all the way to 14. Just the shields location and the screws to remove them differ slightly, but this you can reference others' display replacement video as the display removal process is the same. Best regards,

Hello, Thank you so much for your kind words! For an iPhone 11 Pro, the only thing different is you'd need to remove the plastic LCD holder bezel that is glued to the glass as the frame slightly wraps around the edges of the front glass. This is covered in our page where we list the summary of the latest updates & tricks (bit.ly/expresscelldepot) Any questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further! Have a great day.

It sounds like you may have an aftermarket display with outcell technology? Please see below for an explanation. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6R-kjIuD_ZY.htmlsi=lUVilNOChOtFertN&t=160 I'm not sure how the touch layer got disturbed without the polarizer layer being damaged as noted otherwise. In any case, I know replacing the digitizer alone is possible for some models but it requires micro soldering which not all repair shops offer. By the way, this occurs when the wire is kept tight and low when it approaches the corners, as demonstrated and emphasized in the video. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Best regards,

@ my question is can after market displays be repaired like I want to change the touch glass and thanks for reply

Yes, all original internal/IC components are kept. You will not lose any function.

It is called Stronghold LOCA. LOCA stands for Liquid Optically Clear Adhesive, there are several options but please kindly note many LOCAs require a separate UV lamp to cure. Ours is specially formulated to be hypersensitive to UV, so much so that exposure to daylight on a cloudy winter day is enough to cure the glue. Other parameters such as contractility, tensile strength and viscosity have all been fine tuned over the years for optimum results. Please note there are a few sellers infringing on our trademark, Stronghold LOCA is developed by us and is exclusive to us. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

B-7000 is not optically clear, and its properties do not make it unsuitable for use between the outer glass and OLED. B-7000 is typically used for bonding the OLED/LCD to the frame/plastic bezel. Best regards,

If you have a black dot on the display, unfortunately that is the OLED layer display damage, not the polarizer film. On certain phones, you can indeed replace the polarizer film using this technique. What phone do you have? Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further. Have a great rest of the day.

@@ecdiy thanks I have iPhone 12 pro max

I'm so sorry, I realize this comment was from 2 weeks ago. Not sure why I didn't receive any notifications on this. I apologize. Is the screen completely dead? I've been planning on offering viewers free phone repair at random. Maybe I can start with your phone?

Yes it is. The shield location differs a little but you can reference others screen (OLED or LCD) replacement video or a teardown video for the exact location. Otherwise the process is 100% identical other than that you'd only use 2.3mL of glue for iPhone 13 Pro Max. Our kit for the iPhone 13 Pro Max is available at our store, www.expertcelldiy.com Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

@@ecdiy thanks you so much and another question when replacing the front glass I want to glue the frame of the screen too to the glass with cold glue too is that a good idea

It's not a bad idea but you'd want to ensure the glue is spread with a brush or something. If you leave it as a bead, then it might interfere with the glass spreading the LOCA underneath to factory spec. There is adhesive underneath anyhow, that seals the bezel to the backside of the OLED so I don't see it being strictly necessary.

@@ecdiy yeah so basically I want to do it like the orginal like to also keep my warranty I’m a repair guy myself I do micro work also but never done this so that being said do you think the phone will still be eligible for warranty afterward

@@ecdiy I was thinking also what if I accidentally damage the heat shield on the screen the screen will still work I know but it looks ugly how to replace it ?

Bubbles aren't really a concern when you are using the liquid glue as demonstrated in this video. I think you may be wondering after watching other pros who use the OCA (film based adhesive) that requires a vacuum laminator and a bubble remover machine but it's actually positive pressure that removes the bubbles in the bubble remover machine. As previously noted though, neither are required when using the liquid glue. Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further. Have a great rest of the day.

Unfortunately, the current discount + Free "pro tool kit" promo is the best we can do. Any questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to comment further/contact us. Have a great rest of the day!

Hello Anna, Thank you for your comment! Honestly, this is how it happened for me too. When I first started, way back with an S3, I succeeded the first repair but the second time I got a bit too comfortable. I wasn't as careful but I had failed. We have developed a lot of tools as well as techniques since then over the years. Our kits as far as I know are the only kits with step by step guide that comes complete with all the parts. The special tools/accessories shown in this video with the exception of the wire tool are proprietary to us as well as they have been developed in-house. There are cheaper 'kits' indeed that include just the tapes but the repair cannot be made successfully with just the tapes. The quality of the glass can vary greatly also. As for the Ulefone Note 9P, I do not have experience with the device specifically, but it sounds like that it comes with an LCD display and not OLED/AMOLED and you have gone 'too deep' which is something we warn against in the video when we do the initial insertion of the tool. I can confirm though that the method and tools shown in this video would work for the phone, but given the low cost of a replacement LCD for that phone (around $42 USD on eBay vs our kit $30), it may be worth replacing the LCD as a whole As for whether it is worth fixing the spare phone or not, that really depends the value you see in the phone. (Whether you personally find it suitable for your needs or lacking, if there are other problems with it... etc etc) Any further questions/concerns, please do not hesitate to contact us/comment further. Best regards,

I do seldom do free repairs as a giveaway for the subscribers! (No kit purchase required). I will do another one soon!

Thank you for sharing your experience. I can definitely empathize with your disappointment. Over the years, I've noticed a pattern of comments from people who have used other kits and experienced failure. There are copycats now using the name of our glue too, but I've been doing this since the days of S3, and every component, with the exception of the screwdriver set, has either been developed in-house or vetted after many trials. The glass, the waterproofing adhesive, and the wires all have more than five distinct grades of quality, although they may look the same. The gel pad to hold the device still and the sticker thermometer are both a very crucial part of the repair both of which are exclusive to our kit. It's very possible that you did not have sufficient heat to soften the glue layer, and your wire was too thick which caused it to go too deep. Don't get me wrong; even with our kit, if you are not careful, you can very well cause damage or fail the repair. We've also had a recent mishap where a fault in production has caused a batch of wires to be weaker. One thing I have learned in this competitive industry, though, is that you really need to be on top of things. One small change or error in the supply chain can make a night-and-day difference in terms of quality.