who disliked this vid?! It's literally free information that can save you hundreds paying a mechanic for his time! Thanks Mr Mod Mini!! I have so many things I need to do on my mini as I have not had a licence for 2 years, ban almost up though and you literally have everything on your channel!! Very excited to drive my mini again with the help of your vids!
I’m so grateful for your channel, it has literally saved me thousands and given me the confidence to tackle just about any job on my 06 R53 knowing that I have your vast knowledge at my disposal. Your channel is an absolute must watch for any DIY mini owners
These are the parts you would need, or get used on eBay: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=RE33-USA-10-2005-R53-Mini-Cooper_S&diagId=25_0385 Mod MINI's Tools: amzn.to/2QEMznK Mod MINI Tip jar: www.fundly.com/mod-mini-tip-jar See all the Mod MINI Videos on my channel: ru-vid.com
You're back!!! My '06 R53 thanks you, you've helped keep that car on the road. Couldn't afford to not do the work myself. Thank you! I'll be using your coilover video shortly. The struts are leaking, and will need to drop the entire subframe to address other leaks as well.
Great video - informative and nice step-by-step explanation. As usual. This video also shows the essence of working on cars: the aim is to change a set of cables Sounds easy enough. Small job. But you end up working under the car pulling the exhaust. Everything is layered and intertwined. Patience is key.
I have watched most of your tutorials and rebuilt a good part of my ‘04S, mostly because of the machine but also because of your vids I feel like I have become a fully apprenticed mechanic lol! So thanks so much for that, it’s not what money could every buy... now what I would like to ask, and I actually kinda wish was on all your vids is; What was your actual “Shop-time” in doing this job? For example, this task?? Obviously it wasn’t 14 mins. And time as the say is always money, however, more importantly a student only knows how good and smart he is by the speed he is going. (Don’t we all love speed?) I mean, I knew this one kid who repeated grade 3 three times, and then went back to grade two. Eventually he crawled back up into his mother lol
Shop time varies dramatically by person and whether or not any problems are encountered, such as rusty bolts. I'd guess book time for this job is around 3 hours but I am not a mechanic by trade so I'm not sure.
Just an FYI, the R50 is almost exactly the same... You'll just be removing the battery box if not also the air box. Source: performed this on my R50 a couple of months ago (with clutch replacement).
Watching this video at work...can't wait to run home and see if this is my issue as well on my 04. Car sat in the elements for almost two years. Prior to sitting, it was only hard to shift into first gear on freezing mornings for several minutes but would become easier. Now, it's stiff shifting all the time and takes a lot of force to move in and out of gears but no grinding noises, just a lot of resistance.
@@ModMINI I tried that a couple weeks ago, with some white lithium grease and it didn't seem to help much. Of course it's now freezing in my garage so I'll have to wait a few days before I can go mess around out there.
Thanks for your fantastic video watched it before changing my cables it was great help, I don't see how this can be related but after doing the job my parking sensors now don't work. Also 5th gear is harder to get, it has the same kind of feel as getting reverse.
Hi chap .....it’s great your postin again ..... totally enjoyed this one....... I noticed your new car supports.......do you have a link to them or even a RU-vid vid please and thank you ......hope your settling into you new home....regards Phil
Have seen in older videos like this one, you use a side stand to work with carl lifted, can gime more info about the one used in this video (blue color) ?? thanks a lot
Thank you so much for all your videos, much appreciated !!! While doing a clutch replacement, I pulled my transmission out of my 2005 R52 S type. Used your video. Awesome. When we were pulling the 6spd Greta away from the mini, my friend grabbed the shifter assembly and it moved and clicked to another gear. How do I sync the correct gear on the transmission when putting it back in the car and the correct gear selected in the car shifter. Thanks in advance, Al.
The cables look slightly longer on the newer style shifter. Did you have cut away some of heat sleeving to make the rubber grommets lint up with the mounting clamps under the car.
Hey man great video again I have recently replaced my clutch on my r50 mini one 5 speed with the facelift gearbox post July 2004 but it’s still slipping in third gear soon as I put any power down could you maybe point me in the right direction on what to replace next
Another great vid thank you. My cables are bodged with tie raps. I live in england so avoid car work in winter lol. But i will be only changing the cables, so can you tel me how they come out of the shifter box please. Watched the gen 2 what to watch out for. Again brill vid, had a gen 2 but went back to gen 1.
Possible fuel evaporative system leak, or if you are in a Clubman of certain model years, the diagnostic pump wiring can rub against right rear control arm and cause a circuit fault.
The system consists of a canister, diagnostic pump, vacuum solenoid and a few other bits. Probably the most problematic is the vacuum solenoid which is next to the dipstick. You might try replacing that first.
Mod MINI I switched it out today. Received in the mail and the light is gone now. Took it for a spin and it has not come back on. Drove it for about 20 - 30 min. Thank you very much. My next project is trying to figure out how to fix the gas tank gauge. It’s not reading fuel capacity. Thanks for the advice. I really appreciate it.
I wish I had watched this video before ordering a new shift cable that I broke. If I had known the newer style shift box comes with upgraded shift cables, I would have ordered that instead of a single cable for my 2003 R53.
Great video, thank you! I have an R50 COOPER (2005) model with the newer cables (fortunately). The problem is I cannot engage reverse without forcing it (and hearing some ugly noises). I always have to engage 1st and then reverse. Do you have any idea?
Hi, Normally you put a link as to where we can purchase the repair parts. Where can I get the Shift box and cables. My 2004 Cooper S has 281,157 miles. My newly acquired 2003 Cooper S only has 87,400 miles.
your videos are great! I pulled the cables and shifter out of our 2002 R53 and I want to replace with the newer style. Do all the bolt holes for the new shift box line up?
Hello, will these shift cables also fit on a 2002 base model Mini? I know this model is the S which might have the 6 speed. Will these new style cables and box still work with the 5 speed manual?
Could of done with this video a few months back! My cable completely snapped on my 2006 R53 only at 75,000 miles too! Another great video! Out of interest where did you get that awesome little ramp lift you got there? I could really do with one of those!
I'm gearing up (no pun intended) to replace these cables (and probably the box as well) on my 2004 R53. However, this assembly is pretty pricey (I'm seeing over $400 for the box and cables) Have you heard of anyone sourcing & adapting less expensive cables from another car with the Getrag 285 transmission? I think the Ford Focus uses the same transmission. If not, I bet the attempt would make a pretty good video...
Junkyard used is a possibility if you are worried about cost. Focus user same gearbox but the parts going to the shifter are probably totally different.
Does anyone notice the shifter sits leans slightly to the drivers side of the car ? I noticed it was the same in your video after you done the job. Mine was completely centred in the car with the old box. I have just done this job with All brand new parts, including the entire shifter box, it’s gasket, cables, transmission counterweight and linkage
hello, I recently bought a minicooper 1.6 2006 and it is difficult to shift from gear 1 to R, even gear 3 is more difficult to shift.... could it be a cable or shifting mechanism defect? Thank you
Well presented video.All you need to know is there. I would have liked a close up of the cable ends and at the diffrence between the two just for more info. Thanks
Not much to show in a closeup. The sheathing is metal instead of plastic and the bushings are a little better as well. Cable itself is very rigid as it needs to push as well as pull.
@@ModMINI thanks for reply it's the clips on the balls I did another car it was hard to see and didn't know how they came apart. When you know it's easy. All your videos are really good and we'll done. That is just a little thing.
@@johnf3278 I hope the clips are easy enough to see on the video. I can't really zoom it much, there's no good way to film car videos efficiently other than wearing camera on head at all times. If I had to setup a tripod for every shot, it would take all day or longer to fix the car.
Awesome vid! Any idea how or where is the best place online I can find the shift assembly/box and cables online? The 2002 MINI R50 is tough to find parts for.
Have you heard of any stiff shifting due to premature wear to the gear selector pivot caused by excessive heat ? May 16, 2020 I replaced my cables in my 2005 Cooper S and made sure the pivot was moving freely. Regardless, the stiff shifting has not been solved and even worse, its intermittent and a driving hazard so the car is not driveable. Before spending more money and DIY time, have you or anyone watching your video successively eliminated stiff shifting by replacing the selector pivot ? Thank you.
@@ModMINI I fixed the problem. Its the "set, shift weight" attached to the "selector lever" on top of the gearbox that is seizing. When you remove the airbox in your video to access the shifter cables, they are coming off the "shift lever". However, this lever also actuates a "set, shift weight" and this is what seizes after 15 minutes of driving heat. The "set, shift weight" is held in place by a single hex nut through a nylon / plastic bushing with a steel inner sleeve so the shift weight unit can rotate. There is also a steel washer under the head of the hex bolt. All of this is thread locked in place by the factory. With a 13 mm socket, steady hands, good torque, the hex bolt can be removed or simply loosened a bit. I suggest you shift into fourth gear to provide adequate space to access the hex head bolt attaching the "set, shift weight". As a test I tried the simple loosening option first which freed up my shifting in the driveway but it did not cure the seizing after 15 minutes of driving. Therefore to remove and replace the "set, shift weight" I had to remove the "selector lever" first which is held in place by 2 x thread locked hex head bolts. Upon inspection of both units, they did not move freely in my hands so I replaced them. Prices vary but roughly $100 each. There is also a tiny, nylon "slider" that fits on the "selector lever" which I recommend placing at the same time for around $15. As for your video which is fantastic, it will help in the case where the "press fit" bushings on the end of old, worn shifter cables fall out when disconnecting from the "shift lever". The entire cable will need replacing. Thank you for your video and replies to my questions.
Would this or the clutch fork be more important to replace first? I don’t think this is what’s causing the stiff feeling but idk. I’m worried if I don’t replace the fork ( looks totally fine) it will just fail after a few miles but that might not be it. Money wise what would you go with?
You've switched from using 4 jack stands to those folding(?) stands. I see your floor jack, so I assume the stands don't do any lifting. Also, the Race Ramps, are they there to get the car up enough for the jack to fit?
www.ezcarlift.com. I've had this for years. Floor jack has jobs other than lifting the car itself. Race ramps are because I can't get the lift under some cars.
Thanks. As we speak my 2005 MCS with 175 km / 110 miles is up on jacks and I am replacing the cables. Even though my car came with the updated cables they have become stiff when the car is warmed up. ( Operate much better when cold but not perfect ). Also, these updated OEM cables are prone to not withstanding removal from the linkage on top of the gearbox. I disconnected mine so I could properly test stiffness of cables in the shifter box and now I cannot reconnect to gearbox linkage because the cable end no longer fits snuggly on. ( the internal rubber bushing has fallen out ). Anyway, I am interested to see what is causing the stiffness in the cables and I wonder if they were damaged inside the shifter box when I removed my old exhaust using a torch to release the bolts. ( Isn't the heat shield there to protect the shifter cables and box ? )
Seems unlikely that torch heat would melt the box to the point of interfering with cable operation. The only way to know for sure would be to remove heat shield and inspect.
@@ModMINI Thanks for the reply. I removed the shifter box and there was no physical damage from heat however I did add some white lithium for safe measure. I also manipulated by hand the gear selectors on top of the transmission and there was no stiffness I could tell of. Next, I installed brand new shifter cables and the shifting now feels relatively normal but I am unable to road test as COVID-19 has delayed delivery of heat shield components and high heat enamel paint. I hope to have it running on the road by May 16, 2020 and I will test in the rain as well, high heat conditions because both situations lead to stiffness in the old cables.
250 miles driven with new cables and its not much better. At times changing gears is a pleasure and later it becomes slow and stiff for some reason and then returns to being okay. Now I have a squeaking noise when changing gears between 1st, 2nd and 3rd.
@@DHEvans The cables go straight into the gearbox, so any remaining issue would be the plastic shifter or the gearbox itself. These cars are pretty notchy compared to Japanese cars.
Hey +Mod MINI, I am a bit confused by the website provided for the parts. Do you have to order them all separately? Or can you order the full linkage assembly as one? Additionally, some are stated as ENDED. Thanks for the help!
Lastly, if only one of my linkage cable bushings failed, am I able to just replace the cable into the box (does the box come apart to replace the cable?)
I have a question about the linkage, for some odd reason the cables are freely moving but the linkage seems to be jammed, wondering if this is a transmission problem or possibly just the linkage, can I simply remove the linkage and try to clean it up, it does have alot of rust, could it be jammed? thanks.Hc
Hi, I change shifter cables on my 2004 Mini Cooper (non-S) by new one but one of them drive me crazy. The shift cable always pop-off the shift lever, particularly when i move the lever in 2nd or Rear speed. Have you a return of experience on how to fix this problem ? If not, i'll try to use a Gear Linkage Repair Kit (found on Amazon) and give you a feed back asap :-)
For all who are interested to fix this problem, have a look on i6 Automotive Ltd (Sheffield - UK) Gear linkage repair clamp. Work fine for me on my 2004 Mini Cooper. More, it's easy to diy your own clamp !
I'm having issues with the shifter not going left and right. In the shift tower the white plastic bushing/but it's s cracked in half. I called bmw and they said they don't sell the shift tower bushings separately from the whole assembly. I was thinking. The bushings on the shift tower are going bad and wondering if anyone has part numbers for them if they have them. Any help would be great 👍✅
I need a shifter retaining clip I have a manual 2008 Mini Cooper S clubman and when I go in reverse and try to go back in either neutral or 1st it pops out then I have to go and realign it but my question is what does the actual clip look like because the dealership doesn’t know of what I’m speaking of
Great video (as always). My gear lever went completely floppy last night (moves forward and backwards between what would be 4th and 3rd, but doesn't engage with the actual transmission if that makes sense!). Engine is currently just stuck in 4th gear. It's at the garage at the moment - should I expect them to have to carry out a similar job to this, do you think?
I have a question for you, I have an r53, and recently it got hard to shift and now won't shift into gear while on. Last time I drove it I was rolling and got it in first. Could this be the slave cylinder or something else? I'm hoping it's not the clutch as I don't have money to replace a clutch right now.
Ya Boi Bobby start by inspecting the slave cylinder. Usually that will make it hard to get into 1st. Pull the boot away and see if any fluid is hiding underneath. If it’s dry, there might be some air bubbles. How does the pedal feel? Best way to tell f your clutch is bad, put the car in 3rd at a stop and try to take off. If it stalls, clutch is fine. If the clutch slips, it needs replacing
This is how I check for a slipping clutch Get car up to a speed of about 3000rpm in 3rd gear or higher, preferably while going slightly uphill. Gradually add brake pressure using accelerator to maintain RPM (either with left foot braking or heal-toe).. When you reach the bite point and brakes are preventing most forward momentum, car should stall.
Mod MINI so I did that, and it stalled, but i couldn't maintain rpms, it just gradually dropped rpms until the car stalled. But it didn't slip. I checked the master and slave cylinder, and they were good, clutch fluid was low and I filled it, but car still isn't going into gear while on. If I start it in first I can shift gears kind of while going forward(meaning I got from first to second, then tried third and it didn't go at first, then I tried again and it went Into third).
@@yaboibobby7528Probably needs more bleeding. It's difficult to get it right. Do it more times than you think necessary and do not let reservoir level fall below height of the corrugated black plastic tube. . Putting car into front end service mode, and raising slave cylinder above height of reservoir and bleeding with pressure bleeder might help.
Is the shift cable both the same I’m trying to order one but I don’t want to order the wrong one My car is a mini Cooper 2006 base 1.6 4cl please help I’ve try searching for it on the internet and no luck Pls help and thank you
Hi Mod Mini . I need your help. I have a mcs 2003 . I reconnaised that the coolant goes from the cover when the motor is hot with a lot a pressure . Its more than in a normal case. The cover is total closed and the coolant tank I changed 3 mths a go with the original bmw mini.
Gotta take it apart, look for damage on the old head gasket. If no smoking gun found, take head to machine shop and have it leak tested. But might be simpler to just install a good used or rebuilt cylinder head rather than risk reinstalling a bad head. I just did a job like this. I didn't see any obvious damage to head gasket, customer opted to install a remanufactured head. Quick fix that extends life of the engine as well. Didn't even bother to leak test old head. Machine shops take forever to do anything and aren't cheap.
Anyone have any ideas that could help, I have a 2003 r50 and when shifting through the gears it seems spongy as described in the video but when I pulled into my garage one day the tires locked up and then it felt like it was stuck in gear. I can not even push the car around
