This is the best how to guide that I’ve seen. Thanks for posting the links to those extra plumbing pieces that aren’t even shown on the heater manufacturer’s website. That will make maintenance a lot easier.
An FYI for your DIY…I will now be installing an electric instant water heater for my little family. I simply need to confirm that our house truly has a 200 amp service…that’s what main breaker says in the box. I have repaired and maintained all of our appliances in the 13 years of our togetherness. Washer/Dryer, water softener, boiler unit for our gas water heater, AC condenser wiring, splitting non softened water for our drip irrigated garden, dishwasher guts, freezer ice tray and defrost coil, new deep well double sink, and replacement of the “contractor” 15 amp outlets. Built in 2008, upgrading to beyond. I watched ALL of your install video and it was VERY helpful. Great job, sir. We are saving now. The maintenance valve suggestions are a must…making sure your panel can support the extra amperage is also a must. I’m certain I can upgrade our water heater to make sure she can have as long a shower as she wants. One additional layer to the plumbing connections may be liquid gasket over the Teflon tape…it is a must to use the super Teflon tape. Simply have to be careful not to brush too much on that it gets into the water supply. Thanks a bunch…is there an update on the cons of this type of system? I’m certain that there are…most likely the electric bill, as you mentioned. Great job, and thank you for your time producing this video!
My electric bill went down about $100 a month, that may not be the case for you. I have zero complaints about my system it works flawlessly and provides endless hot water. A couple small anoyances… a couple lights flicker in the house when the hot water is turned on, probably could replace the bulbs and be fine. My water pressure also seems to be a bit less but not a big deal.
I followed your steps exactly and it made my install a snap. Thanks so much for detailing and explaining everything. Much appreciated! Rheem improved their unit design as mine came with mini ground buss with 3 separate screw connectors.
Extremely helpful and amazing that you recorded the project alone. Very detailed, thank you again. I have the same brand electric but smaller. Using the RX-Tex18 that uses only 2 circuits. I can't wait for those bleeder projects!!!!
I have this exact same one with a recirculating pump and water softener. The best investment ever. Instead of constantly twisting your shark pipe as a result of tightening, you should have tightened first then connect the shark bite
Congratulations, very detailed proyect,it will be really helpful and appreciated if You upload a maintenance video with the vinagre and pump.Thank U very much. Super well made job.
I came here for the plumbing connections. Just a pro tip, as an Electrical Contractor, the locknut on the Smurf Tube Fitting is installed incorrectly. The teeth on the lockring should bite into the reducing washer. I'm not even going to charge you extra.
The reason why the tank wont drain is because the bottom of the tank is full of sludge and is blocking drain valve hole.Becore you start draining make sure you attach a hose to the drain and open the valve and then open the water feed valve which will push the sludge out through the drain valve .When the water starts to flow shut the water feed off and open the T&p valve to allow air to help drain the water.
The regulations in my city necessitate the presence of a disconnect switch, meaning I'd have to set up three of these switches. It's quite a significant number of switches, to be honest.
Allright, so i had one of these installed in my familys cabin about 5 months ago. Rheem Rtex-18. Worked great up until like 3 weeks ago. At which point it just stopped working properly. Its not an electrical issue with the house, the unit isnt throwing any codes, theres just a trickle of hot water coming out in my sink. We literally take this thing apart multiple times a day and clean the inlet impeller, screen, etc. It will work for about 3 hours then back to a trickle. Granted we are on a well so we have hard water and we have cleaned sediment out of it, but our cold water is now down to a trickle also, no leaks, ive even dug up our water main and its fine, my girlfriend has soaked our faucet and shower head in vinegar overnight, no change. Next step is to flush the system. Ive called Rheem tech support 6 times and all they can do is slightly recommend how to troubleshoot it and send instructions. My uniylt was 3 DAYS out of warranty and they cant help. If i flush it and that doesnt help i think ill have to replace it. I guess at least i live on a lake and i can take a bath in it. Any info would be helpful. Thanks
With the well water you should install a spin down filter.. if you have a tankless or a tank water heater.. it will take out most of the sediment going to the water heater.. if you install it b4 the well pressure tank or after it u can save the rest of your faucets also..
Check our Ferrules and Ferrule Crimper for that stranded wire. It’s a much safer solution for those ends. It’s standard in Europe, not sure why we haven’t fully adopted. It’s very common here in factories, with big machinery, and such. But no reason not to use in residential.
Tankless electric water heaters don't have a tank in which to build pressure. No relief valve, drain, or venting needed. Just disconnect the supply lines to flush. Don't over complicate it. Here's the verbiage from your Rheem manual: This automatic tankless water heater is equipped with both computer-controlled and electro- mechanical auto resetting thermostat switches for high-limited temperature protection. Since this product does not use a storage tank, the use of a temperature pressure relief valve (T&P) is not required for most installations. UL Standard 499 does NOT require that a pressure relief valve be used. State code may be behind the times and still require it of course, but most states have acknowledged the existence of tankless heaters. SharkBite push to connect fittings can be used with PEX, copper, CPVC, PE-RT & HDPE.
Wow, you did an awesome job on that DYI install. I'm thinking about going tankless too, but I don't have any more space on my current breaker box and the current circuit breaker is a 2 pole 25 amp. All the tankless water heaters I've seen have at least 2 sets of 2 pole circuit breakers. Guess I'm going to have to get another tank instead 😞
@@roxanneharrington9287 either add a sub/breakout box from the existing box or the main box by the meter, or upgrade existing box assuming his electric service and wiring would support the extra amps.
After watching your video, l may do it, l got the same Rheem tankless water heater 36kw, l'm just a little scared about the wires, but your video makes me feel a little more comfortable. Well let see if l do it. Thanks for the video.
I just realized you install the 27kw, l got 36kw, and by looking at your video, it seems that the 27 cand handle 2 bathroom, washer machine and dishwasher at the same time and is cheaper, so l will exchange it for the 27kw. Thank again.
@@pacholovo glad I could help! More important than the difference in the cost of the unit, This way you avoid an extra 40amp breaker, space for it in your box, and the added cost of the 8/2 cable needed for it.
The Di-Electric nipples are to abate electrolysis EG. Corrosion from Dissimilar metals . And the valves have Rubber seals where they join at the union you do not use Teflon Tape at that point .And this installation would never meet an inspection or even be close to code.
If you are using pvc water pipes, why do you need dialectric nipples on the isolation valves? I plan to use copper pipes. Do i need dialectric nipples?
Ok since you have not turned them off yet.. my question is.. How has it held up ? I want to install one but afraid it won't be enough for a shower and a kitchen faucet running at the same time.. any dislikes now that you have used it for almost 2 years ? .. How many bathrooms do you have ? just want to know before i invest.. Thank you
Best purchase ive made for my home. Endless hot water, plenty for the whole house. I have 2.5 bathrooms, kitchen and laundry sinks, dishwasher etc nothing is ever without hot water
Great video. Very detailed and informative. Thank you. I did not see the link for the hot and cold valves (for the flushing). Do you have the links for those?
Great video. I have a question if you can help. I changed my tank to an electric tankless maybe a year ago and now I am updated my connectors like the one you show in your video and also making it look better and flush with the drywall. I have a question but not sure if you have an email to provide pics to help. I have the output (hot) going directly from tankless to the house , 1 inch pvc. The cold in or input going to the tankless is connected to a 24 Stainless Steel Braided Flexible Water Heater Connector, then it goes to two pvc pipes . One i believe is the main water line coming from the house.. However the other one I don't know what it is . There is an elbow connected to it but don't know what it is and what to do with this connection. Do I do an same connection to it? or should this be connected to the hot as a pressure valve? Im not sure what to do with it. Help.
Sorry harder without pictures. The heater was changed already maybe two years ago. Now trying to replace piping so it looks better and flush . But what I see is two lines from the house going to cold input to electric water heater and one line going to the house from hot output water heater.
@@pexori There should just be one pipe that goes to the water heater with cold water and one coming out of the water heater you would connect to the hot water pipes on your home.
@@DIY-Nick Sorry for the confusion. This is my question as there are 3 pvc lines coming from the wall that was originally connected to the previous water heater tank. The obvious is the heater pvc (#1). From the tankless water heater output going to this pvc. Going towards the cold input is two pvc connected together going via an elbow. One is obvioulsy the main water. The other i don't know if this is drainage or something else. I don't know. Do you have maybe an email to send you a pic?
It’s flexible electrical conduit so it should be but you would need to verify with the specific code that you fall under. It also depends where you are using it of course.
@@chaoticfox6271 i guess i miss understanding you, i didnt use any CPVC, any you see is from my home plumbing already in place. Your home plumbing may be different.
Thanks very much. I am interested on how many sources of hot water you can run at once...eg. show and two sinks? Two showers at once? What is you had gone with 18kW instead of 27?
Each model tells you specifically how many of each type thing you can run at the same time. I show what my model gan support towards the beginning of the video during unboxing. I’ve yet to have a case where I couldn’t get enough at the same time. I’m on a well so water pressure becomes an issue for be long before lack of hot water.
What is the size wire in the bus gray cable feeding the breaker box from the meter? And it's called something when it comes all together in the gray protective casing.
Would it of made made more sense go install the cold water valve upsides down from how you installed it? That would allow the use of existing inlet water to "flush" and not a sump pump and many do not own a sump or a pump
No, you can’t flush with plain water, that is what you are doing every time you use your system, you are bypassing the water inlet and outlet and flushing the system with a solution of vinegar water or a cleaning agent drain for cleaning and descaling your system. You need to bypass so you can (1) introduce the cleaning solution, and (2) remove the cleaning solution (you don’t want it going into your pipes and appliances).
They sell 'flush-kit' @ your local plumbing supplier that has the right pump and hoses to properly maintain your tankless all in a convenient 3gal bucket. Cost shouldn't be a concern if you value your hot water system.
Really very helpful and very detailed. I am considering a job very similar in scope and using the same Rheem model. Was that a sub panel that you added the breakers to ? Curious because you mentioned going and turning off the main house power ? Has the water heater met your expectations so far ? Again thanks for making the effort to capture your journey as I found this very helpful . Stay safe.
My house has a small panel by the meeter that has a master off switch and just a couple breakers for things right by that panel like one of the A/C handlers. The rest of my breakers are in the panel in my garage that I added the tankless heater to. I’m very pleased with my tankless water heater, endless hot water ab about $100 less pet month.
@@DIY-Nick Oh , OK that clears that up. Glad you like the heater. My tank system is fairly new so when it ages a tad more I will be going this route. Again a excellent job on this one handed install and documentatuion ,. LOL
I was just wondering if you could leave one of the heating elements unwired and this unit still work properly I don’t want to under size my house would rather over size and I thought I’d I went with the 36 and didn’t need it if I would just leave one breaker off if it would still work correctly if anyone could answer thanks
I don’t know if it would work or not but it isn’t needed as it only uses the elements needed based on the number of faucets etc turned on at the same time. Basically if you only need one element that’s all that gets powered up, if you need more then more turn on.
Yeah, you need a permit for most anything. Do most people get them for small inside DIY jobs…. No they do not. Not saying not to get a permit, just sayin most people don’t.
I assume you mean you installed a new tankless system, if so, it is likely one of a few problems, either your demand is higher than the unit you installed is designed to handle (you the hot water in too many faucets at a time simultaneously for your heater to keep up) or one or more of your run power lines is not getting power to one or more of the nodes, or one or more of the nodes is malfunctioning or shutting off instantly due to lack of ground, improper wiring or something like too much or too little load or amperage, or a faulty unit altogether. You may need an electrician to troubleshoot to determine which. If you are having this problem on a tank water heater some of what I said above may or may not apply.
@@jaandel1 we have a well and water pressure has always sucked in my house. That said I think the hot water pressure is lower than ever since switching to tankless but its still worth it for me.
Cross connection is likely the issue. Recirc your hot water with a "comfort pump" that installs on your existing tank on the hot side, 2 connections. 2 more simple connections under the sink nearest where hot water is desired. Everything you need is in the box purchased where you choose to go . Last time I was in H/D, I saw the kit for $ 330 +/- . With only 2 crescent wrenches and an extra hour (trust me, it's fast and easy). Add a half hour if you need to read the manual, but it's pretty self-explanatory. The "grunfos" pump is bulletproof and needs no periodic maintenance, and your wife will love you again just like back in high school. No more wasting water waiting forever for hot water. Good luck
Tankless heater’s don’t have to retain any heat they heat the water on demand as needed. The dialectic nipples are to prevent any chance of an electrical charge gong to your water taps.
A couple lights in my house do flicker when we turn on the hot water. Home Depot had warmed me it may happen when I bought it, they said it’s due to dirty power from the pole but I had my electric company out and they said it was fine. I think it’s just too much amps being taken from one pole, I may change one of the 3 40amp breakers to the other side to see if it fixes it. Its only two lights that flicker so it may also just be the bulbs.
@@otorres915 depends how much you are currently using elsewhere and if other stuff is ever used at the same time. For example of you are using 40amp for a welder plug and you know you will never be welding and using hot water at the same time you don’t necessarily have to count those amps as used.
@@otorres915 do a load calculation. In my area 27kw water heater requires a 320 or 400 amp service. Guarantee you won't be able to shower, do a load of dishes, and have your AC on at the same time
This was an exact replacement for the old one that lasted about 10 years. ru-vid.comUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh The top of my mitigation tube by my roofline was just a 90 elbow which allowed too much debris to fall down into the fan, eventually ruining it. Without this issue, I bet it would have kept running another 10 years. When I replaced this fan, I added an extra elbow joint so the top tube now it does a 180, which should solve that problem. The radon guys around here wanted to charge me a $300 diagnostic fee, then parts/labor (probably close to $600 total). I installed this all by myself in about an hour for the cost of the fan; it would probably be even easier/faster with two people. FYI the manufacturer's warranty greatly differs depending on whether you install it yourself (1 yr warranty) or have a licensed installer do it (10 yrs).
All you need is two hot wires and a ground. The two hot should he red and black but white and black will work you just should mark it with some tape so its not mistaken as neutral. Tankless water-heaters don’t need a neutral and in fact have no where to connect one.
@@DIY-Nick Yes, I see that now in the installation manual. Thanks for clarifying that. 8/2 is much more cost effective than 8/3 as well. Thanks again. I may upgrade or add a sub panel in garage next to my present water heater. so that I can install these electrical upgrades prior to my tankless heater purchase. That way it will be there waiting when needed. Stay safe & have a good one.
I’m thinking about going tankless but i don’t know what tankless to get.. i have a 40 gallon water heater i want to know what is equivalent help me out please 😅
Your best bet is to look at what each says it can handle such as how many showers, washer, dishwasher and sinks simultaneously and based on your needs you pick the model right for you. Worst case you get a model that can’t keep up with your demand and you get cold water. I wold be conservative and get the largest one your electrical box can support within reason because it will only use what you need so you can’t really have one that is “too big” but you can have one that is too small.
@@dannyarreola4035 yes it pulls tons of power that’s why you need three 40amp double breakers and 8/2 wire. Your tank heater likely only needs one double pole 30amp breaker and probably 10/2 wire or maybe even 12/2. Tankless use a LOT more power than tank heaters but the reason they are more economical is they only turn on when needed, on demand rather than having to keep a tank full of hot water hot all day 24/7, 365 days a year so it is ready in case you turn on the hot water. If your kids take 3hr showers then tankless probably would be more expensive but for normal people they will save you a ton. My electric bill went down $100 a month. You need to do maintenance every 6m to a year depending how hard your water is. I’ll do a video on how to do it 6m after I installed mine, so about 5months from now but basically you use a small pump and bucket with short hoses like you use with a washer, with a vinegar and water mix flushing it through the system via the bypass maintenance valves I showed in my video.
No, you don’t need a permit, you likely need 2, one for plumbing and one for electrical, plus inspections for each. If you need the permits or not really depends on your local ordinances. Most places the answer is yes you need a permit for darn near everything. That said most people don’t get permits for small DIY jobs inside their home regardless what is required.
Come Help me put mine in please 🙏 Not sure where you are at but have you Ever wanted to visit Texas? I have a spare room for you and your wife to stay in exchange for installing my tankless 😊 the big old tank is already out ... There is a lake down the rd from me if you like fishing. 😅 Thanks for the Video Miss Vikie Howell 🕊💖🕊 with the Texas Take USA 🇺🇸
great video. Question on the romex... The instructions on the 27KW Rheem call for 8x3, and I see you using 8X2. The electrician at Ace Hardware said code is 8x3 as well.
Its 8/2, tankless water heaters don’t use a neutral wire. Ace is wrong. Now you know why an “electrician” would be working at an Ace rather than as an election making real money. There isn’t even a place on a tankless water heater to attach a 3rd neutral wire if you wanted to use 8/3. It is 3 wires but just black, white/red and ground. Ask the Ace “electrician” where on the water heater you would connect the 3rd wire? The instructions may say 8/3 but the diagrams only show red, black and ground which is 8/2.
My main power panel is within 8’ of the panel. Its not line of site because of a corner but its just fine. If you want to add a power disconnect by the unit feel free, not difficult.
No. Tankless weather heaters need a much higher load and amperage at a time to instantly heat the water with electricity as it passes over a conductor, rather than heating it relatively slowly in a tank with filaments. Tankless water heaters use far more electricity while creating the hot water but zero electricity when the hot water is turned off. Tank water heaters use less electricity to create the hot water much slower but they use it far more often to always have hot water in the tank ready for you to use it on demand. Since you’re not using hot water constantly tank water heaters end up being far less efficient because most of the heated water is heated for nothing, starts to cool and then gets reheated again and again until you use it. Tankless uses a lot more electricity when you need hot water but only when you need it. Imagine if your house could be left to drop to the temperature outside and the temperature was 20° F but you could use a “tankless” heater to only instantly heat a room the 30m a day you walk into a room rather than it needing to keep it heated for you 24/7 so it is comfortable whenever you happen to visit the room.
