Lol I came here to call out that same line, it was so deadpan I was like, what? Love these guys, learned about the site last year and this is their first video I've noticed I've seen since then.
So I ordered everything you used in this video and assembled it as such. I have significant clutch slip from 3-6 gears but when it warms up completely it slips every gear. I did everything by the book and it's not an adjustment issue. Used wet clutch compatible oil also. I'm close to setting it on fire for my own satisfaction, any tips or something would be appreciated
In another video they put the friction plate with no notch (the thicker one ) in the basket last which would be against the inner pressure plate and you put yours in first which way is the correct way ??? HELPP
Our video is correct. I checked the service manual and it's not super clear in there, but the parts diagram shows the "thicker one" being put on the clutch hub/boss first just like we did. -Charles
i installed a ebc clutch kit and i put the disc that has no cut as first closed to the engine cause no instruction and manuel says stock clutch has the disc with the cut as last on the outside so yeah.... clutch works fine, but hard without instructions if they kit aint he same as stock :(
i have an unbranded clutch kit. the fiber plates have no notches. there is the one fiber plate that is wider. and two of the rings are a little thicker than the other new ones...no instructions...what do i do?
If you put standard oil in a crankcase that has a wet clutch, you won't have a working clutch anymore. You need oil designed for wet clutch applications as it allows the frictions plates to maintain enough friction to function correctly while still sufficiently lubricating the moving parts in the rest of the engine. It's not really any more expensive, I think even Super Tech makes some. If the issue is it being hard to find, that's a bummer but there is no substitute that I know of.
i have a question concerning the lever on the cover . i just got this 2000 warrior that's not running and i thought it had a bad clutch cable. i disconnected the cable from the housing cover and the lever would move only a 1/2 to 3/4 " and stop solid , this is free play with no resistance. After removing the cover it appears the clutch basket was installed properly but the ( i'll call it a plunger ) that pushs against the push rod on to the pressure plate is barely touching the push rod.
Is the clutch not disengaging? What is the symptom? With the cable off, that lever will have some play before it touches the push-rod. Does yours look different than the video with everything hooked up?
just bought a 2000 warrior. when you pull the clutch it doesnt go back. you have to push it back. is that a clutch cable issue or do i need to replace the clutch. or both?
You can click the first link in the description to check out all the parts and tools used in this video. You can also click the link below to view the Tusk Clutch Holding Tool: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-clutch-holding-tool-p
There is Yamalube 10w-40 in this quad. Here's a page showing everything you need for an oil change on a Warrior 350: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/Sales/2640/How-To-Change-The-Oil-On-A-Yamaha-Warrior Hope that helps!
