How to replace the combination gas valve 

Best clearest voice and enunciation in the biz.

Love the detail and the practical information just laid out there. Now I have much less chance of dying in a fireball of my own making Seriously, I truly appreciate the emphasis on safety as natural gas is not something you can afford to make a mistake with

your knowledge is definitely well shown throughout the install... should make all of us amateurs think twice about diy installs.

Thanks, sir, you are an excellent teacher! As someone else has said, your thoroughness should incline us amateurs to hesitate attempting this kind of repair!

Followed your instructions and now have new combo valve installed and furnace running like a champ. Thanks for the vid.

Your whole channel is invaluable! Thanks for this posting!

Late to the party (commenting on 9 year old video). A lot of detail for a standing pilot furnace. Much needed for today's service techs. Trade schools do not teach this stuff well enough. All of our young techs are clueless when they see a standing pilot appliance. A couple of things I wished you would have covered: 1. The ECO circuit was not connected to the old valve you removed and you did not connect the circuit to your new valve. The manufacturer put that safety in the furnace and it is not our job to decide that safety should be taken out (without a document from the manufacturer saying that it can be removed if you upgrade to a redundant valve). It is troubling to me when any furnace safety is ignored. 2. Roll out switch bracket was bent out of position and should have been put back to proper position. 3. I like to check and adjust the flame with the roll-out shield in place because the combustion air pattern changes with it installed. Not very easy to video the flames with it in place so I can see why you didn't have it installed. Other than that, good job GFM!!😀

Thanks for the video. Had a stuck gas valve once--"On" on the gas boiler (1992). In the 1980s had a leak at the pilot line/valve body (As you describe). Took considerable effort to fix it and singed my eyebrows in doing so!!

This is an excellent training video.It is clear, thorough and easy to follow.

Great video GFM, just completed the gas furnace section of my book so this video and your other videos are a great help and very appreciated. Thank you for sharing.

Good explaination based on hands-on experience . Very good competent man .

Excellent vid ! Clocking the meter that was neat. Thanks for your help this past winter fixing my gas pack using your videos.

thanks so much for the comprehensive video

ive learnt so much about gas furnaces in 27 mins than I have reading 3 days of manuals.

Thank you. Awesome info. Step by step

Awesome vid. I enjoy working on furnaces.

yes you covered it thank you for all your input.

Excellent video! Thank you for posting it GFM!

I HAD A WELDER MIG WELD A WALL HEATER WITH A CRACKED FLAME TUBE...WHICH HAS LASTED WELL FOR YEARS. BUT IF A NEW PART IS AVAILABLE..USE IT !

I enjoyed this lesson . Thank you

great video as usual, I had this same furnace last week where the roll out switch over the burners tripped. Draft was ok but alot of heat over the burners. I had to shut the furnace down. Very old furnace they decided to go with a new one

Thanks greyfurnaceman I really appreciate this, I needed this teaching video to help me obtain NATE Cert. I also was trying to figure out issue I had with pre-ignition issue, I hope you can provide insight to what may cause this other than ,I already checked for misaligned burners and there is a draft (air) filtrating the burn area.

Great video that helped a lot thank you

Very practical video, thanks.

awesome

Where’s the link for the other video Gary ? Great video btw!

Great video. Thanks for sharing.

appreciate your expertise...

Thank you!

Great video. Thank You

Wow, very informative, thank you very much !

You need a grayfurnaceman shirt that says DONT GET LOONEY TOON

Great Video

Thks

Great video ! I learned several things, even though I have done some of these valve replacements before. I've not seen one with adjustment for manifold pressure. Maybe I didn't know what I was looking at, or maybe the LP burning mobile home furnaces I service (usually single burner) don't have adjuster. I'll look closely on future jobs. I will also start testing limit switches...never have done that. Have you ever tried a flare nut wrench to tweak leaking pilot tubing compression fittings ? I have an old 3/8 & 7/16" Lisle six point flare nut wrench (for automotive fuel & brake line fittings) which I ground one side (they come rounded a little) flat...so it will slide over nut just a bit more. Works great. Little extra bit of torque available with these almost always stops leakage for me, no pipe goop needed. Thanks for the video , much appreciated Rob

I moved into an old Mobile home with an old Duotherm 52,000 btu NG/LPG furnace. It is running on LPG. Can't afford to upgrade to a newer safer unit. I was told It hasn't been used for 16 years since the owner passed away. I had to find a source for information on these relic standing pilot ones and this channel is most informative. Like going to a tech school at home. I have an issue tho with a slight propane smell. It smells like a small leak but only noticeable when my propane tank is low. I've done the soap and bubble spray test, with gas valve on and furnace running/not running. It has on old White Rogers valve. I put my nose close to the on/off/pilot button and it smells like that is where it's coming from, but no bubbles when sprayed. Do those or any control valve have O-rings/gaskets that wear out internally and not sealing? Or can the issue be a gas in/out pressure problem? I have a little bag with the NG orifice fitting inside of it so I'm assuming it has the LPG orifice installed. I appreciate your great channel and any pointers thank you.

I have an older 1970s payne day and night furnace and the burners don't fire up. I don't have the money to replace the furnace so I'm trying to find a replacement valve valve for it.

Very great video I have question ;for changing gas valve ;should I change old pilot tube orvi can re-use it?

When the fan comes on and the flames waver does this always mean the heat ex-changer is cracked? Thank you

Good information and your videos are easy to understand. My problem is the gas valve is making a buzzing sound and I have determined the solenoid is bad. It's a Essex gas valve SX242NSPR/ 242-111151-3152. I found a used one but the number is SX242NS / 242-111121-1101. They look identical but I don't know what the SPR in my bad valve designates. Any advice on compatibility would be great.

Well Done

i have a york borg warner furnace and i need to order a new combination gas control valve but i cant seem to find out if i can use a universal valve. the old valve is an essex TF-155 210-221000-1332A i found on used on ebay but i was trying to find a better deal

or use a tubing wrench for that small fitting

I would love to know what tool you use to get those reducers into the new valve body? Some sort of inside tightening?

Shouldn't there be a sediment trap on the gas line?

Hi, I have a lennox gas valve 73w17. There are two wires connected to it. One yellow wire and one orange wire. Does it matter which wire goes where on the gas valve? Lots of videos have it orange ontop and yellow at bottom. If I have it the other way with yellow ontop and orange at bottom. Will the valve function the same? Thanks

What’s the leak detector you’re using?

Great video, question, what about ending with a flue gas analysis?? Russ Motchell

no. 1 son works for a retailer with HVAC service. They give him 20 minutes total to do this very repair. Your opinion; is that enough time?

Don't forget to tell them that the reducer bushing is directional too .

Hello, I have an Royal gas wall furnace from the 50's. It works perfect, but is worrisome because the pilot continues to flow gas even when the flame is not lit. Apparently it was made that way. Would it be possible to retrofit a control valve with those safety features?

To the right of the pressure regulator you can see the pressure regulator vent (it's plugged up with what seems to be a metallic plug, and sits just above the tap that you used to measure the gas pressure). What is the point of this vent? Should there be a vent line going from the valve?

Where would I go to buy a valve like that? Mine is probably bad. My pilot light is on but when you set to auto the furnace doesn’t engage. When I set to On the furnace and fan starts but blows cool air only

Were did u get the valve gas from?

Water pump pliers? Channel locks...maybe. Where I come come from, it's called a mexican speed wrench.

What controls the delay in the blower coming on?

One question Gray. What tape or thread dope I can use to stop gas leak from a connection of termocouple with gas valve ? thank you

My hvac tech put a new combo valve with the thermocouple and it will not take lot more that 5 more minutes any suggestions it’s an old American standard

Can I use a household CO alarm to check leaks?

You didn’t show how to remove the left gas pipe

This guys is looney tunes with his doohickeys!

Hello was just wondering what measurement type to set the manometer? psi Hg etc? Thanks GFM

I wanted to see how you got the valve loose because mine won't rotate. The burner manifolds are in the way and there isn't room to rotate it. But you just cut that part out.....

one question Gray where you connect the manometer one to the cap val where you connect the second one to check don't see and the video

Hi Grayfurnaceman! I have one question: Single stage furnace valve is being replaced. Old valve had two wires, one shielded, that were plugged into terminals both marked MV. New valve has no markings. How do I know which terminals to plug the two wires on the new valve? Does it matter?

Can combination gas valves be rebuilt?

i have a few questions get ahold of me when you can please

I have an old American Standard Gas Furnace Model # GUF 800 E2. Serial # starts with H so from what I read online, it was made in 1993. I can't find any info on Google in regards to the Model # GUF 800 E2. I don't think it has a controller board or anything. It looks pretty basic. The issue with the furnace is that the Pilot light will not stay lit. As soon as you let go of the pilot light switch, it turns off. I replaced the Thermocouple with a Honeywell model from Lowes. Still the same problem. I called a local HVAC guy and he said to remove the pilot assembly and blow compressed air through it. That didn't solve the problem either. So I called him again and he said to probably change out the Gas Valve. My question is are these gas valves that have pilot lights & thermocouples universal or do I have to get a specific one? Is there a particular brand/model gas valve you recommend that will work with my old American Standard furnace? Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate the videos.

I am watching this because I don'rt even know how to light the damned thing. My "hot Dawg" Modine garage heater doesn't have a reset button so I am assuming that means I'll have to get an igniter to light it. I am not interested in doing any disasembly but I was wondering if you can use an in home carbon monoxide detector to check for leaks? I wanted to start this thing for our November freezing spell. I use my garage for many projects.

thought gas valve had to be fitted so as not to fall to off position

I have a combination gas valve and my pilot stays lit, but i can't get the blower to kick on. what do you think the problem is. I have bought a replacement valve just in case. As a matter of fact the valve that i have is the same one that you're replacing in the video. c3602-200 is the part number for this particular gas valve.

meant on position

Do you have an email, I got some questions about a Vertical Wall Furnace, Suburban brand that's about 60 years old

not when the blower suppose to kick on

Is soft refrigeration copper tubing acceptable as pilot tubing?