This video by far is the most complete and concise I've seen on the subject. I did my 2009 Ridgeline last weekend. It was a struggle. I lowered the subframe down on the bolts and was able to get it out, but getting the pressure line off and on was very challenging. This is the second time I've put a R&P in my Ridgeline. The last time it was done by a mechanic. I noticed the top mounting bolt came out hard all the way but the bottom mostly twisted out by hand. Turns out the threads on the top bolt were stripped and likely cross threaded when it was put in by my mechanic. I tried a new bolt and could not get it to thread even though the hole was aligned. I also tried to run a tap through it and it wouldn't catch either. I'm a bit nervous about the situation but I don't know what to do. Any suggestions?
He probably bent the upper bracket, like I did. Spent an hour trying to get the bolt in, and it wouldn't line up. The bracket with the encapsulated nut, that stripped on yours, is removable. A big bolt goes up through the sub frame and another one goes through the top. If you are concerned, you could purchase from the dealer. You could put a smaller diameter and longer bolt through with a nut on it. The way it is attached with the lower bolt and the mount on the other end, I really don't think it's going any where.
Thanks so much for this video! I just completed the same repair on my 2006 Ridgeline. The video is nicely edited to a comfortable length, yet still overviews every bolt and hose that must be removed and replaced during the repair. No surprises during the course of the repair. Couldn't recommend this video more highly! 👍
@@robertberin4872 Actually not. Mine started leaking the power steering fluid horribly, without warning overnight. Once the problem appeared, the truck was not drivable. That was my experience, but yours might be different.
Thanks for the great video. I've learned enough to know that I'm going to bring my 2012 Pilot to the dealer. Looks like it would take me 2 days but maybe 4-6 hours for a trained tech.
Nothing but a pain doing this. This vehicular came from back east where roads are salted. I'm a master mechanic and doing this fur 46 years. Hardest job in a long time. Was doing everything on the daughters 2006 pilot. Rack, Cv, and intermediate axle, lower control arms, and struts. Took everthing off, so just rack was left. The pressure line was siezed.started to strip nut using snap-on line wrench. Took pressure line off of pump and return line can be disconnected from the lower right side. A clamp up on the valve cover and two attached to sub frame. Push the rubber pressure line down. And the whole thing will come out the left side. Had to use a oxy/acctalyne torch and vice grips to get the pressure line fitting out of the housing. I think this way is easier to do. As I installed the rack, then the pressure line. It was hell to line up. Had to pull the rack back out and straighten the upper mount. I spent an hour trying to start the bolt. Ended up cutting the whole upper lip off the upper inner bracket. The bolt that holds the upper bracket was siezed in the cradle. Had no choice, it Kept bending the mount and would not line up. Here is a tip. Spray silicone spray on the mounting surfaces, and the rack goes right back in. It also helps on the return line hose fittings.
Great video, thank you! I just finished this job on the same vehicle as your video. Very helpful and made it much easier. Like a dummy I removed the wrong two lines, I initially took the two hard lines off that are part of the unit and completely missed the pressure and return line so that added some time. I ended up having to do your suggestion and completely removed the rear DS sub-frame bolt in order to get enough clearance and had to bend the bracket too. Once all that was done the swap went pretty smoothly. I ended up removing/reconnecting the pressure line using a crows foot wrench from the wheel well. Again, thank you!
According to the factory service manual, that ear on the subframe you had to bend out of the way is actually a removable plate. I discovered that fact after i had to mess with it a ton to get the rack to move for a pressure line replacement I am in the middle of right now. I have no idea how you got the pressure and return hoses from the top. This job is definitely not for the feint of heart.
I noticed that when I was taking mine out. But the bolt was siezed and broke the head of the bolt off. I guess 7 years more corrosion makes a big difference.
Have you done one on a Gen1 Ridgeline? I want to do this but am concerned about the subframe. Would I expect any chassis variations between the Ridgeline and the Pilot that would stop me from performing the install without dropping the entire subframe?
Wow, that access to the lines at 8:44 I just do not have. Can barely see them and even then only from more to the right. Can't get a wrench in anywhere with leverage or room to move the wrench.
I assume its should be the same for 2008 4 cyl accord. If possible can you tell me whether you need to disable the airbag and if so how or just the battery.
It took me about 2.5 hours to do start to finish but for someone that doesn’t work on cars for a living book time says 6.5hrs so I’d expect it to take all day if you’ve never done anything like this
@@colesimpson6578 "All day" is a pretty good estimate for a shade tree mechanic on this job. I replaced the rack in my '06 MDX (identical setup to the Pilot) in about 6 hours. That included replacement of the lower control arms and frequent breaks to reference the FSM.
i have a p/s noise when im making a sharp turn already replaced the p/s pump and still doing it,so im thinking its the p/s rack 2008 honda ridgeline do you know if it would be similar as this?
i would check all hoses, mine was the feed, pressure line was cracked and leaking. loss of pressure caused the noise. orings both of them replaced would help some also
6 hours for book time.. that’s not including the cost of an alignment.. so with just labor and alignment you are looking at roughly 800-1000 for just labor and alignment. Not including the rack.
