Hey Robert, the instructional videos for the timing belt replacement is hands down the most detailed I have seen to date. Your thoroughness is second to none. Thanx for your passion and dedication to everything volvo!
Just did mine last weekend (98 S70 T5), everything went smoothly (save for not having the serpentine tensioner tool, but I figured out a way to work around it), and the total cost was under $300 (local dealer charges $1300). Keep up the great work, your tutorials are awesome and very easy to follow!
Thank you for sharing the timing belt work on the S70! I have the mechanical tensioner which I think makes the work easier than the hydraulic ones. However, it is very true that the mechanical ones could fail. It did happen to my 98 S70 at around 100k miles. I was extremely lucky to have caught the failure in my garage when the T-belt was making unusual sound as it was cutting through the cover. Just lucky it happened at home!! All ball bearings were gone, but tensioner was still in place. The S70 is still running strong ~ heading towards ~400k miles. Just durable vehicle if you can do the basic maintenance! Note also that the belt sizes are different between the mechanical and hydraulic tensioner types (~6 teeth difference).
Glad to read that you caught the problem before it destroyed the motor. You are right, these cars are great and can run a long time. I was aware that the newer motors with the mechanical tensioners have a different size belt.
This has really given me a slot to finalize my decision to go ahead with the payment for a V70 1998 wagon in the next 48hrs. this video is cool. i used a Mazda 626 and i do things myself and i hope to do same with my new purchase. bravo boss. will love to keep in touch.
Robert, always a pleasure to watch you in action. I took off all of the components (belt -Two pulley's - water pump - tensioner ) and unfortunately discovered that the tensioner pulley was wrong and the Gates timing belt was the wrong size. I had ordered the kit off of Amazon for 115$. Ughh man. You're so spot on right about the torx bolt holding on the tensioner. You don't want to strip that . Mine was in bad shape from a previous owner. I had to apply a flat long bar against the ratchet head while unscrewing the bolt. I'll be replacing that torx bolt . Yes indeed ! This might help somebody - After writing down the mileage on the sticker , place clear plastic tape over the sticker face so as to preserve the information. I also write down that info on my Volvo book.
That tensioner pulley bolt comes with the new part, they are attached. Sad to read about your parts. That is why I try to only order parts from suppliers that specifically support our cars. If they ship you something wrong, they will usually overnight the corrected part no questions asked. I like to put the sticker in the glove box. I think I will go purchase an OEM sticker from Volvo from now on, if they will sell them. They are aluminum and writing on them with an ink pen leaves the data pressed into the sticker, so if the ink wears off the impression from the pen is still there.
Hey Paul. If the belt broke or slipped the head is destroyed and it will need a new head and / or pistons (lower end). If it's just due, that's another story and doable. The tensioner is a little different, it has a mechanical tensioner and the timing is set a little different but the guys on Matthews Volvo site can help with the minor differences. Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks once again for the video. I used your CV Axle video the other day. Today the timing video. Car fired up and drives fine. I ended up having to do the water pump too (it was leaking). Thanks again.
Thank you so much for this video. I may be buying a 97 850 with 88K miles. It's in great shape but the timing belt was never replaced. This video gives me hope of saving some money and doing it myself. You do a great job of explaining and your camera work is very sharp.
Robert, I like to say on behalf of all the Volvo community thank you for sharing your knowledge on these white engines as they are called. I am doing a head gasket along with water pump,timing belt and serpentine belt replacement. Do I need to take the crank pulley off to remove the timing belt? It is caught behind the crank pulley and won't release so I was going to try removing the pulley.
Robert, I got sick. Sorry about the late response to your reply. I have a 1996 Volvo 850 turbo wagon. I actually jacked the engine by the oil pan about an inch and was able to remove timing belt. It got jammed somehow upon removal. It was an original Volvo belt which I doubt the owner had done. The car was a "rescued horse". I got it with a bad heater core,broken windshield,bald tires but transmission was good to and had a lot of power. You are right about these cars being a lot of fun. Thank you again Robert. I am changing out the water pump, timing belt, upper motor mount, fuel filter along with the head gasket job while I have it all the wrenches out. Take care. By the way, you should get a sticker that says "My other Volvo is a Volvo".
Thank you very much Robert, I used your videos for my first time changing Timing Belt and Waterpump. Very informative and practical and a positive person to deliver it :) Preben form Denmark, Europe
Haha, 169,677 was the mileage on my V70 when I bought it! Great video as always, answered pretty much all questions I had. I need to take care of this soon, because I have no clue when it was last done.
Say a quick prayer, haha I like it, human just like the rest of us. In nearly 40 years of working on cars I never did a cam belt; took out engines, gearboxes, clutches, most everything else but this always looked like a dark art. Now I'm finding it harder to find a mechanic I can trust locally, so what the heck, I'm gonna give it a try! Thanks for the wisdom as ever RS.
Great video! The only advise I have has to do with removing the lower pulley. Yours was pretty clean, but if it had oil or dirt around it, the belt ends up with it all over it as well. I advise removing the lower pulley and cleaning the area.
You should be ok as long as you don't hear roller noise. Sometimes people change the belt only and leave the rollers and water pump along. If the rollers go bad it will cause the belt to jump time which would be as bad as the belt breaking. So if you hear the rollers squealing when you first start the car cold, I would replace everything. If you are skilled enough to slip a roller out and put a new one in, that would work as well but most folks don't even try that.
Huge thank you for this guide as well as your PCV guide. I tackled both projects over the past couple of weekends with very little previous mechanical experience. Hoping to get another 70k out of my '94 850 (currently somewhere around 300k miles - odometer died in 2011). Thanks again!
David Kapustinski Good deal, thanks for sharing. You can check the actual miles on that car. - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9K-1WChRr9k.html
Not sure about the S80 crank (harmonic balancer) needing to be pulled. Google some instructions or check SwedeSpeed. Yes I did turn back the cam sprocket without the belt on. When you have the crank on mark spot, the cams are suppose to clear the valves/pistons.
Great video I've just done mine on the 3-4-2014, I watched a couple of times before doing both belts, water pump, and idlers at 188000 miles, the hydraulic tensioner was in good order although the same couldn't be said for the idlers and pump, I think I replaced them just in time as they were all noisy and had play in the pump. One thing I did notice was my exhaust cam was one tooth out clockwise, I have done 1600 miles since buying the car a few weeks ago and the previous owner had the timing belt changed at 93000 and there had not been any performance issues since then with one tooth out.
Tire size and pressure should be on the sticker label inside your petro filler door. If not, look very close to the tire and you will see a set of numbers like 205-55/16.
robert G8 vids! i did complete TB service for belt/tensioners/pullies/water pump. heeding your advice, i bought 3 brand new "highest quality"T45's for removing the tenacious timing belt tensioner pully. it was still stripping after 1st 2 T45's. it was about 35% stripped. no good. then, i noticed that there is a thin 1/32"-ish collar on the outside of the torx collar...it is one in the same with the torx. you can bite on this with vice grips.
Good, you should be. I'm nervous every time I pull a timing belt. The thing to remember is to pay attention to details. Also, when you are done, you are to turn the crank over four times (two belt cycles) before you hit the key to start the car. If you do that you will be fine. Do NOT over tighten bolts that you put back on the motor.
good video. easy to follow. I am about to do the belt on my v70. For those who don't want to fab the belt tensioner pulley tool, IPD sells the tool and a pin lock for about 20 bucks I think.
Hi Robert, I have a 1999 Volvo C70 T5 with the B5234T3 engine that has the VVT on the exhaust cam. I'm diagnosing why it doesn't start very well and tries to stall after a cold start, after the mechanics did the timing. They changed the camshaft position sensor too but it didn't fix the issue. I was suspecting the timing to be a tooth off, but it seems everything is aligning now that I'm looking into it myself. The mechanics kept changing more and more parts from alternator to ignition coils but the issue persists. My Volvo repair manual isn't much help, it tells me to take it to a Volvo dealership for timing if it's the newer 1999 model - but my local Volvo dealership asked if it's a S70 and if it's a diesel, so I can't trust them either 😂 It starts a bit better when it's warm, but it stalled randomly with the check engine light on, throwing a code about the camshaft position sensor.
@@RobertDIY Thanks! I will look into the ECT! It has multiple faults, with one key it sounded like an old Harley, chopping and almost stalling. Other key it had problems starting but ran fine. The coolant light is on, it creates pressure in the system and also leaks coolant. I probably need a new antenna ring and a radiator too
robert u did this video well i found a1999 volvo on line that needs belt and waterpump and the car is chep and i think im going to do this car thanks for the inspirational video
I would think they're a different material, they tend to be caramel coloured, sort of see through as well. But the teeth look no different. Actually, all the little Honda OHC lawn and garden engines use run in oil cambelts. My 850 was pretty snug behind the pulley, I was worried about maybe scoring the belt on some sharp casting. But I held my finger to it as it was running and it was fine. I'd use a little water based lube next time for sure.
hey great work. i have a question is it possible to replace the timing belt on a volvo 2000 s80 with out removing the crankshaft? because i dont have air tools, or the special tool (crankshaft holding tool) also i saw your mark's move clock wise , did you turn back the crankshaft back with out the timing belt on?
The FWD Volvo's are great comfortable cars but due to their age, have a lot of maintenance rolling on them. You can watch my "car buyer's video" and/or Google "Volvo 850 Buyer's Guide" and read up on them a little. I like the buyers guide on VolvoForums.
That sure is tight slipping that belt behind that balancer pulley! I just did the belt on my 850 yesterday and I think a bit of lube might be a good idea there. Maybe some 50/50 dish soap and water.
Hey Robert, thanks for all you do man. I've been wrenching on my cars forever, too, and it's great to see a kindred spirit putting out such a quality product (your vids). Quick question: my tensioner weeped a drop or two of oil when I compressed it, think I should replace it?
I have a question for you than no other mechanic could not answer in my country. I have ford focus from 2008 (europe model) with 1.4l engine that is 16v. not it has 45000km on 35 it started to do a rattling noise from 1200 to 2100 rpm when you lift off the gas and when the car is cold, when warm it used to not rattle but now its audible. in ford they told me that they need to check the timing belt but that is a lot of work. could timing belt do this rattle. power is oky, mot test is oky.
Thank you Mr Robert for all your videos which educate me a lot about fixing my 1999 Volvo S70. My radiator was busted (leak) the other day and I replaced it. After replacing it and starting the vehicle, I realized that the coolant reservoir was swelling up about to bust. I shut the car off and I think that the water pump and the timing belt needs to be changed out. I will be changing out the thermostat as well. Just in case I missed anything, do you think of anything else? Thank you so much for your videos.
+Hello Sir. My teenage son was driving it when the radiator got busted. I put some antifreeze in it and that's when I saw where it was leaking from. After replacing the radiator with coolant in it and start it up , it kind of running rough and I hear a squeaking sound like something was forced to turn by the belt. I also noted the coolant tank about to bust. That's when I turned the vehicle off. Supposedly the vehicle started steaming up a mile down the road according to my son. Before that, a hose was changed out and everything was fine. Thank you again for your expertise. Hoping for a good news. Keep up the good work Sir. Thank you much, James.
yes robert sorry from uk yes its a turbo diesel 2.4 140 bhp 2000 i think the timing belt is at the front of engine and the injector pump belt is at the back of the engine which in the uk is the left hand side
my god i wish i had watched this before doing a 8 hour job on not changing my timing belt couse it was the wrong one so i had to re-use the old one and i changed the belt that was driving the power steering pump and alternator and the a/c stuff this was a bloody pain to do and i do not recommend to rush this if you are in a borrowed space, im going to buy a new timingbelt on thursday and change it next week hopefully my back pain cures from this 8 hour job whew it was a challenge and i really do have to point out that i wish you showed how you put the dampener plate back in place couse i could not get that back into place for some reason but im going to put it back when im gonna replace the belt again next week.
How do I find the right timing belt? I've tried 3 belts . Help . I want to thank you for all you do . I have a 1998 Volvo s70 5 cylinder GLT turbo for cell. Everything works guard good shape do parts. I love this car but I need a truck I can't have both
the rest of the tricks for getting the belt past the harmonic balancer and plastic shield and that other thing in the way between them would be helpful.
Hey Robert, excellent video once again. Just wanted to comment on the fact that your FCP kit didn't come with a plastic piece for the tensioner. I installed my kit last night and found the new plastic piece in the timing belt box. Kind of an odd place for it, but maybe yours was in another box in the package.
I have never heard any story about an OEM belt snapping, that was within it's time change schedule. Most belt companies should have good belts that will last the 115,000 km schedule. All the stories I have heard/read were people that failed to replace them. These are interfierence motors so valve damage will happen if you let the belt break. Another reason the belt breaks is that people fail to replace the rollers, the rollers fail/sieze and causes the belt to break.
Not the same engine, but Volvo 740 made in 1990, we had the belt fail standing at traffic lights after 6 months and 8000 miles of ownership. The engine was replaced under warranty but the dealer in Michigan spent a month at it.
Great video, im going to replace my timing belt next saturday, im going to replace the water pump also. hope that nothing goes wrong:) Thank u for the information to change the belt in this video./// Christian
chris gustavsson Thanks for watching. Set the timing BEFORE removing the belt and roll the motor over by hand before starting it and all should be fine.
Hi Robert. Im in South Africa, so buying parts from IPD or FCP is out of the question, due to shipping costs. The official volvo dealer here is really expensive due to the exchange rate of the Rand to the Dollar. I found a volvo specialist shop that stocks Goodyear cam and serpentine belts. Is it worth saving that extra money, as I have heard some horror stories about OEM belts snapping?
Bought waterpump, timing belt and the two rollers from Volvo shop for employes yesterday, 299 dollars alltogether. But I think in US spareparts are cheaper anyway. Thought the second time to change timingbelt was 285 000 km, (165 000 + 120 000 km) but later I found out in the servicemanual that the second time is at 330 000 km (or 10 years??). Do you change before that intervall?
So, here I am going over video. I need the one that shows doing the water pump on 2000 S70 non turbo. Also how do I know if I should change the seals on Crank and Cam shaft? Should I go by how many miles? I don't think this vehicle was treated with much respect. The body is great, so I'd like a vehicle good on gas. Thanks Robert
thanks for your quick reply and help ... do you recommend just leaving the plastic "post" broken off? I was thinking of trying to glue it but worried it may in glue itself and cause more problems. without the post I was worried the front cover might run against the roller that the "post" is there to protect. I followed your video and got everything on there just right before it broke, now I'm not sure if I should pull the pin on the tensioner if I need to mess with the lower cover, which is $70 and a few days out...
+Mark Begle just like I said, I leave it off. I didn't say that I try to glue it. That would be tragic, glue fails and the piece falls into the crank while the engine is turning and cut through the belt. 🤣
hello Robert i am in the process of doing a timing belt change on my T5R. i got the motor timed with both camshafts on the top cover timing marks. i only see ONE notch on my crankshaft that lines up w the oil pump. and also the timing belt lines up w the marking on the crankshaft pulley. can it be possible that my crank only has ONE marking aligning the oil pump? i have already removed my timing belt...now im having second guesses about timing. can the engine be not timed correctly even though all the top cam shafts sprocket marks line up? help!! thank you sir
Hi... thanks for your videos I really like it... I have a volvo 850, but like many others I don't know much about car... can you let me know the size of the tires please? Thanks. (I'm follow you from N. Zealand)
Hi again Robert! That V70 i just saved from the crusher is really an oddball. After the radio staying blocked after the good code is entered, now my cam gears are unusual too. Have you ever seen some that had no marks on them? Apart from a little M embossed in them, they're perfectly uniform all around... I did not look for the crank gear marks yet, but i already have a problem up there. It's a base model 1999 V70. What should i look for as a marking for the cam gears?
@@RobertDIY I'll see if i can find the marks on the crank then go that way. No clue if the check engine coded anything, i only made it run when parked at the junkyard for like 2 minutes. No exhaust at all but the manifold and its flexible part. Not the best situation. I'll see what i can do for the timing, thanks!
LOL, I think the 4 foot breaker bar is a little over kill but "better safe than sorry". Why the oil cap gasket? The timing belt has nothing to do with the timing belt change. If you see oil on top of the motor you likely have a clogged PCV.
Good show, volvo has at least 5 variations of motor for one model in one year....hmmm. Then the manual says "variations are due to our efforts to increase the belt's longevity".....well you have to think, maybe they should have tested and verified a single good design to start with. I feel a little bad for them trying to make cars affordable, reliable, and emissions compliant is a pick any two, situation. Bring on the age of the golf carts. Right on with the video, helped me understand the timing marks (critical). Thanks
Hi , I have a 1998 Volvo S70 , I think what's happening is I left the serpentine idler pulley under car for two weeks "due to wrong parts sent" and it rained a few days and moisture got in it which is creating rattling sound I'm guessing anyways ? I test drove seems to be doing fine except for that. Probably gonna have to replace that now .
Robert, the car in this video doesn't have VVT on the intake cam. Our 2000 V70 does. We got the car back together after belt change, but it won't start. There was slack in the intake cam when we aligned the timing marks. Should we take out that slack and THEN align the intake cam timing mark before installing the belt? Thanks for any help you or other commenters can give.
+Robert DIY thanks for responding. Car has 214k, and my son was driving when it lost power and died. The water pump seized and destroyed the timing belt, which was overdue anyway. We bought the 2000 V70 just back in July.
+Robert DIY well, that's not what I wanted to hear, but you're the expert. Thanks for being available and responding so quickly. Love your channel. At 214k, we may look for a used engine or another cheap Volvo.
thank you nice video iam currently working on a 2000 s40 but iam confused about timing mine has same cam sprockets as this one but has vvt head kind without vvt selenoid top timing mark is missing scope points is out of time
I'm changing the timing belt on my 95 850. it's got the 2.4 no turbo. every parts store has two listed but the parts look pretty much the same. is there a way to tell from the Vin which part I need?
I watched the video but had my timing belt and water pump replaced by a private Volvo mechanic. Now the engine sounds to me like it's idling more rough and louder. Does not sound as smooth as it was when I took it in. Driving a 2000 S70 Volvo with 175K. Took it back, they said nothing wrong with the car. Sounds off to me. Is that typical?
@@RobertDIY Yes. P0014 B Camshaft Position Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance Bank 1; car is idling rough, took it back to mechanic before getting the code tells me there's nothing wrong. Well my car is not running as smoothly as it was before he changed the timing belt. I had an oil leak and my car is at 175,500K, last timing belt change was at 100K.
+Aaron B No antiseize on timing parts. Thread lock on water pump bolts. Just move it back. I often use a 1/2" breaker bar and hammer. You can use a large screw driver between the bolts. The old belt, whatever.
Hi Robert been watching your video over and over on replacing TB , putting back together got the 3 marking lined up , put all back together, started it , sounded good but now there's a rattling noise , not over heating but I'm not comfortable taking it for test drive , any ideas ? A little anti freeze did get on some things but not much.
im a newb at the mechanic field im in college for it and I haven't gotten to that subject yet but my Volvo's timing belt seems cracked and worn I need to change it all I have is the belt not a kit I have most of the tools required in your video and don't have the funds to pay some1 do to the job and im VERY NERVOUS to start the job
@@RobertDIY I was just wondering. You have the new one already in stock. i wasnt trying to be an smartass. i really like yoh instructions and content. keep it up. !
Hi Robert. Thanks for sharing your great videos! I am changing the timingbelt/ idle roller/ tensionroller on my early "94 850 10v to but ran in to a strange problem. After putting in the new [same spec. 4.7mm diameter idle/ tension rollers and the old tensioner] the new 139 teeth 21mm belt [as was installed before] would not fit! even with the tensioner pressed in all the way and pin locked! [plastic part not even installed] I have removed the slack between the crank and the exhaustcam but it still will not fit around the waterpump / tensionroll.. Hope you could give me a sugestion? Thanks!
i mean, i managed to get the belt on.. it went realy tight, while the tensioner was stil pressed al the way in with the pin holding it in. then i turned the pulley 2 coplete rotations and all the timing marks were still but.. the belt is so tight that if i would release the tensioner pin, the tensioner has no where to go becaurse its already pressing tight against the tensionerroller.
Thanks for the video. I replaced my timing belt this weekend, but I think the timing is off a wee bit. Even though the marks were lined up what i thought was right, it is showing the signs of not being timed right (poor acceleration and not running as smooth). Is it possible to adjust the timing without taking the belt off, and if not, how do you move one of the sprockets to align the marks right? Just by hand, clockwise?
hapsblog Check the timing by pulling the cover and turning the crank. I have been having issues with the exhaust cam moving 1 or 2 notches. When that happens, I simply pull the tensioner, put a extension in one of the exhaust cam sprocket holes and tap it until the belt jumps the teeth and sets right. Make sure the crank is on it's mark.
Robert DIY I re-did my belt today (about 5 times now) and now it seems to stay lined up at the bottom, but not the sprockets up top. every time I spin it (by hand or by the car) the marks get ahead, on both. And now the car runs rough, like it's miss-firing. Could that be the wrong belt maybe?
If the belt is tight it is likely the right one. What year car do you have? Mechanical or hydraulic tensioner? Are you using the right marks on the cams and cover?
Robert DIY It's a 93 850. Hydraulic (whichever one iPD sells in their kit). I'm using the notches on the cams and the notch in the cover (and the line and notch on the one at the bottom of the engine). I'm thinking I must've not had it as aligned as I thought, unless I really screwed up the engine somehow. I just finished re-doing it (again) and was SUPER careful with it this time. I went around 4 times actually (because after the 2nd turn, I wasn't careful in how slow i did it and the markings didn't stop where you can tell if they line up with the cover notches. So after the 4th time I stopped where all 3 lines matches/lined up.
Robert! Thanks for your videos. I got a Volvo c70 and when I heard that doing the mantinance on them was a pain... but as I been watching your videos I've learn how to take care of that myself and saved hundreds of bucks. I do have a quick question. I got a volvo c70 01 2.4L getting the service code P0014. Seems to have to do with the Camshaft valve. I got one off the junkyard which looks in good condition. havent changed that, but in your experience would you say that will help with that code? Or does the code involve the timing belt change/pulleys? Any advise would be super helpful!!! Thanks bro
Robert DIY whats a good chemical to use and clean the camshaft valve? would it be safe to use carb cleaner? or just brake cleaner will do the trick? sorry I didn't make myself explain well. thanks for your help
Robert DIY whats a good chemical to use and clean the camshaft valve? would it be safe to use carb cleaner? or just brake cleaner will do the trick? sorry I didn't make myself explain well. thanks for your help
Hello..I have just bought a 98 Volvo s70. It looks worn from the outside and some inside....but it has 55,000mi.never owned a Volvo.. but where would the VIN numbers be...I want to make sure I didn't get got..don't have owners manual
I feel I should mention this. Before you take the timing belt off, you might wanna consider removing the harmonic balancer. I almost didnt get the belt on. There was the metal thing, engine mount and a stupid enginecover in my way. Somehow I got the belt on by brute force. Hope the belt wont wear out prematurly
hi robert i have v70 2.5 td w reg and the injector pump belt came off have you got a vid on how to fit a new one my one is at the back not at the front with the timeing belt many thanks john
Hi Robert I have a Volvo S70. I have just completed the installation of the timing belt but now the engine wont do a full rotation by hand. Have I done something wrong? Thanks Pieter
Its a 2000 Volvo S70 2.5 20Valve. Non Turbo. I followed your video with replacing the head step by step. The bottom knotch is exactly in the centre of the 2 grooves. The top marks are alligned exactly as per the video. I honestly cant see whats wrong. If you could try assist me, would really appreciate it. Thanks
Hey, this video was helpful. When i was installing the top cover, after i used my silicon pasta... I remember that i didnt time my crankshaft first... But when i already had my cams and top cover on, also tighten all the bolts... I turned the crank clockwise until it hit the marking. The question is; would it be bad to turn camshaft not clockwise to match the marks? because thats what i done. and i recognized if i turned it more against the clockwise, it started to be very hard to turn (probably means that the valve was hitting the piston). But when i has my cams on marks, its not hard to turn them clockwise... so my plan was to just install my timing belt and try a few turns and see if it still lines up. Or will i be damaging anything? thanks. please give me a few tips if you have some, because i didnt match the crank before i installed top cover and cams.
Huh? I really do NOT know what you have done. If you turned the crank or a cam with the belt off, you are risking getting the car out of time. Sometimes it is hard to turn the crank with EVERYTHING put together because of engine compression. So, I repeat, IF YOU TURNED THE CRANK OR CAMS WITH THE BELT OFF, proceed with caution. You really should not do that. Now, it is important to time the motor before you remove the belt. If you DID THAT, the crank almost NEVER moves. So, you can install the belt, making sure the cams are timed, then turn the motor over BY HAND at least 2 times and recheck the marks. If you pull the spark plugs, it will be easier to turn the motor over by hand. If you do NOT understand, go to my website and call me.
Robert DIY Hey again.Well i have been changing the top gasket, and something else. Now i have installed the top and top cover. Yes i know the timing is important, thats why i wanted to ask you this question. If its a bad thing to move the cam the opposite way, to make the marks match? Or if i damage it if i dont turn it the right way everytime?
If the crank mark is on, you can turn those cams 180 degrees in any direction. Timing Demonstration with Head removed, Cam cover installation. - Auto information Series Timing Mark Crank Sprocket Location, Volvo 850, S70, V70, XC70 - Auto Information Series Volvo timing alignment - Auto Information Series Cylinder head installation, head gasket, lifters, etc. - Auto Repair Series
