Excellent video mate, I've subscribed. Video and audio quality are first class with crystal clear narration. These little Getz's are getting on in years now but there's still swarms of them happily getting around all over Australia.
Best and most complete video about timing belt replacement.And i viewed them for years now on youtube.Leave absolute no room for gueswork.Actually a training video for people that are good mechanics,but also excellent for people with little skill👍👍👍👍
Absolutely brilliant video; I have done a lot of our own maintenance, but never a timing belt, so your video will be a great reference. One question; our kit comes with a water pump too, can I ask at what point in your video would be the best time to do the water pump?
Hi Glenn, if you search for "2006-2011 Hyundai Accent Timing Belt and Water Pump Replacement" there is a video which shows the water pump replacement. It looks like they remove the old water pump after removing the timing belt. Unfortunately we didn't change ours at the time. Remember that coolant is quite toxic, especially to animals. Take care and dispose of it appropriately.
Excellent video,😊 was this engine a 1.4 or a 1.6 liter, are they the same timing belt? My VIN number is KMHBT 31 BR7U157200. Can you please identify the engine size. It’s a dual overhead cam. My specification sticker under the hood is gone. Thank You.
The best video on RU-vid for Hyundai 1.6 liter timing belt job. So imformative and easy to understand with nice description. Thanks to your help, I got confidence to do maintenance job for my 2008 accent which has 130k mile on it.
Very informative video, thank you for that, but my car is a 1.1 and does not have an idler, and the tensioner is a little different, but i have the service manual on hand. but one question, how difficult is it to replace the seal behind the timing belt sprocket?
Would you do everything the same way if the original timing belt was stripped? Would a stripped timing belt damage the valves in the 1.6L engine? Great video very easy to follow. Also I think you can get a timing belt replacement kit that includes a water pump which would be ideal to replace at the same time especially if you have all of the associated components already removed.
Great video. Other guys said remove engine mount so I did. I think they were doing water pump as well. It does give a bit more room but as you have just demonstrated not necessary for just the belt. I get that you are doing this with minimal tools but hop down to Bunnings and get an 18volt half inch drive impact driver. One of the best tools I have bought in 50 years. I use it daily in my mowing business. 5 years and it is still good as new. Cheers.
Thanks for the feedback. We noticed the same, that people often remove the engine mount. However it's not mentioned in the Factory Service Manual and we found the job is very doable with it in place. Good idea about the impact driver we'll have to add that to the list!
Very good little cars and very easy to work on when needed. Hyundai agents told me not strange to see them running around still at 300 000 km on engine.
How you doin man can i use an impact to remove the pulley without holding the pulley and after that spining it back to the marking? etc im doing it just to loose it up because i got no special tools
Hi mate, thanks for watching. You could use an impact to remove the pulley, however you will still need to hold the pulley to be able to torque the bolt up properly on re-assembly. It's really important the crankshaft bolt is tightened correctly so we would not recommend using the impact to reinstall it
Appreciate your detailed video. Thank you. I compiled a step-by-step instruction sheet for our 2009 Accent. My impact wrench could not remove the 22mm crank bolt. Thanks to you, I got the same pulley holder tool. The teeth on the timing belt were dry-rotted and fell off, then the crank gear just spun. Arizona summers did not help. As you know, engine is interference. Lucked out. Engine started instantly, idled fine and runs good. Dodged that bullet.
Great information! We don’t have the Getz in the USA. However , it’s very similar to my 2010 Hyundai Accent. I did the timing belt, pulleys, and tensioner back in 2017 at 60,000 miles. In 2024 or 2025 I will do all that again plus the water pump at 120,000 miles.
Excellent description of timing belt replacement.. Just one tip I’ve done in the past, is to remove number 1 spark plug.. This helps when turning the engine over as reduces compression..
I have done this job on this model several times. It's possible to do the entire job without removing the right front wheel. I have done it with ramps only. It's not tricky. Some tips that may help someone: I loosen the camshaft bolt by bracing a long cheater bar against a block of wood on the ground and briefly kicking the starter. It works every time, but I admit there is a little risk for new players. This is quick and easy, but take care. The wood block protects the cheater bar's end from damage. This can also be done early in the process, as soon as you can access the bolt, which should be right after removing that plastic cover under the belts. In this way, you can know if the job can be done before you do any serious disassembly. Removing the harmonic balancer can also be tricky. I find it can be pulled off by hand while tapping it from the side with a brass hammer. The hammering helps it shock loose to begin with until it can be slid off the shaft. The job is easier if the right engine support bracket is removed first. You must jack up under the sump to take the weight off the mount first and ensure it does not sink down too far while you work. Chaps with big hands will appreciate the extra working space, and time will be saved overall. Torquing the crankshaft bolt can be done after all other assembly. Just don't forget. Doing this with a long half-inch drive extension (mine is about 600mm) and a suitable half-inch torque is easy. Once assembly is done I throw it in fifth and run the extension straight past the wheel to get the correct torque. This method (and the removal method mentioned above) eliminates the need to buy a special tool you will use only for three or four timing belt changes and perhaps a water pump change during the life of the car. I would consider replacing the water pump during this job. A water pump replacement basically requires a timing belt change anyway. A replacement water pump is inexpensive and also adds a coolant replacement to the job. That sounds like a lot until you find yourself doing that, plus work for the timing belt just for a water pump replacement. Worth thinking about before doing the timing belt change since you will be "in there" anyhow. When reinstalling the water pump pulley, lining up the first bolt through three holes in that situation is tricky. It can be time-consuming (particularly if you are still working around the right engine mount support bracket). I find it easiest to first run a zip tie through the top hole, which lines up all the other holes with gravity. Once you have two bolts, you can remove the zip tie and do the other two. In the video, this step happens with a jump cut - the magic of editing out all the fumbling and swearing, I guess. When tensioning the AC belt, there is also a locking bolt on the other side. This prevents the tensioner from backing off from engine vibration. I did not see this mentioned or tightened in the video during belt tensioning, but it should be done. Check your FSM.
Hi Tyron, thanks for watching and great question. I think what you might be getting at here is whether this engine is an interference engine or not. An interference engine means that when one or more of the valves are in the fully open position they can extend into an area of the cylinder where the piston may travel, meaning that if the timing belt snapped the piston could hit the valve and cause major damage. In normal operation, the timing belt ensures the pistons and valves never occupy the same space so no damage is caused. In a non-interference engine, when the piston is at top dead centre (TDC), i.e. its farthest travel, it will still not reach far enough to hit any of the valves in the fully open position (their farthest travel), meaning that even if the timing belt were to snap the pistons cannot collide with the valves. In short, if the timing belt snaps in an interference engine major internal damage will be caused. From research online, it looks like all Hyundai engines are interference engines (including the 1.4L / 1.6L covered here), which means that valves and pistons would very likely be damaged if the timing belt snaps. Best practice is to keep on top of the timing belt and ensure it is changed at or just before the required intervals to reduce the likelihood of that expensive damage occurring.
This is the best tutorial for changing the timing belt on this model. I did the timing belt on my 2008 Kia Rio5 with 1.6L and this process was exactly the same. I really struggled with reinstalling the spring/tensioner. You made it look easy. Well done mate.
Great video mate - much clearer instructions than all the other videos I have found (as well as great steady visuals)! Quick qustion - at what point in the process would I change out the water pump? Would it be after removing the idler pulley at 11:11?
Thanks for the feedback! We put a lot of effort in to make sure things are easy to see in the video. According to the manual you would remove it after removing the timing belt idler. Hope this helps.
@@2ndGearLow Thanks mate, I did the whole job today - cambelt, tensioner, water pump plus the alternator and power steering belts (which were shot when I pulled them off). Your video allowed me to take my time and be methodical. I can't thank you enough for this step by step guide - it ensured I didn't miss anything - especially when putting it all back together! I am so glad I did it - the bearings in the water pump and tensioner/idler pulley were all so noisy and the old cambelt was showing cracks on almost every tooth, so it's likely it would have all failed spectacularly very soon if I had not done it. I'm in New Zealand and Hyundai quoted me over $800 for the parts. I ended up importing it all from Australia for less than $200 delivered (Gates aftermarket stuff, but all looks good quality).
By far the best DIY video I have ever seen. And I've seen a lot! No shocking camera, under- or overexposed shots, blurry images, etc. The explanation was very understandable for me as a non-English speaker. Constructive and not making it more difficult than necessary. I ordered all V-belts including water pump today and hope to finish the job later this week. Thank you very much and keep up the good work! You are a natural talent! Greetings from the Netherlands
Excellent video. I would also be telling people to beware of buying a timing belt that's kinked. Those belts don't last long. When you are given a timing belt that is kinked. It should be round and free and not in a packed tight cardboard. Fiber glass doesn't like sharp angles. Also check the date of manufacture. It could be sitting on a shelf for years.
Hi Dylan, the method shown is applicable to the 1.4L and 1.6L engines. The process may be similar, it would be worth looking at the factory service manual for the 1.5L
Hi in 7:58 you used a universal pulley holder to take off camshaft. If the aligned marks move how do you aligned them again when the nut is off? Thanks much appreciated.
Hi Antonio, I believe you're referring to removing the crankshaft pulley bolt (rather than camshaft). If you overshoot the marks in the process of cracking the bolt using the 22mm socket, you can make just under 2 full rotations of the crankshaft pulley again to bring both sets of marks on the crankshaft and camshaft back into alignment. The reason 2x rotations of the crankshaft pulley are required here is that the camshaft sprocket has twice as many teeth as the crankshaft sprocket, meaning that one rotation of the crankshaft pulley will result in its markings being aligned, while the camshaft sprocket would be 180 degrees out of alignment. The process of using the 22mm socket to rotate the pulley again will not re-tighten the bolt much (after you have already cracked it), then you can simply remove the bolt once the markings are back in alignment
12:36 you said that we needed to check the marks are lined up on the crankshaft and camshaft before we put the belt back on. Well my crankshaft moved forward from the Mark. Do I put the bolt in and go twice around clockwise?
I'm from México and your videos have been so useful to me, this engine g4ee found in the 2007 Hyundai accent in México but this model was sold by Dodge (Dodge attitude)
The best! Mate, i hope your work pays off soon, these are the best instructionals ive seen on this platform. When that ad revenue kicks in and you get working on more popular cars this channel will take off. The aussie chrisfix !!!
Hi Johan, if the engine is sounding different after changing the timing belt you need to investigate it as soon as possible, and don't run the engine until you have figured it out. If the timing has been changed by mistake, catastrophic damage can be caused. As stated in the video, it's critical to ensure the timing marks are correctly aligned on the camshaft and crankshaft and not moved relative to each other between when the old belt is removed and new installed. Best to pull it all apart and check again
Really good video ! Thank you . I have a question … Has this hyundai crank shaft a seal ? ?? Trying to understand that , hope to hear from you Cheers bro you are a legend
Hi, thanks for watching! I'd suggest visiting this website partsouq.com, enter your Hyundai Getz VIN and you are able to see exploded diagrams for the entire vehicle. Search for 'crankshaft' and you will find that the seal part number. For our 2010 Getz this is part no. 09283-41001
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting! No there isn't - the factory service manual that we followed here covers the G4EE (1.4L) and G4ED (1.6L) engines, with no stated differences between the two for this section of the Engine Mechanical manual
@@2ndGearLow thank you for replying. I will do the timing belt myself, and your video is so much better than trying to understand that workshop manual loosely translated from Korean
