In this video I show you the ins & outs of replacing the Top Lifts (the part of the heel that touches the ground) on a pair of Allen Edmonds Derbies at home. The procedure would be the same for a pair of Bostonians, Johnston & Murphy, Bruno Magli, etc.
0:37 Showing (2) pairs of shoes I re-soled at home
1:15 Materials and tools you need
3:28 Shoe heel balance (the geometry) explained
6:07 Allen Edmonds vs J&M top lift attachment explained
8:10 My Cobbler's last shown
9:02 How to use a spatula to remove the Top Lift
12:58 Sanding the heel base with the belt sander
14:23 Test fitting & guing the new Top Lift
16:32 Story time: my previous wrist injury with photo at 17:38
18:05 Placing the new top lift onto the shoe
20:10 Taping off the upper to prevent stratches
21:41 Sanding down the excess top lift
24:15 Tip: the angle is critical
25:44 Trimming the breast (front edge) of the heel
27:50 The Gentleman's Notch explained
29:12 Finish sanding (down to 40 grit) the heel edge
31:32 re-dying the heel edge
32:25 Polishing the edge of the heel
33:44 Brushing the heel edge to a shine
34:22 (Optional) adding a few nails to the top lift
36:00 Antoher option: go to your local Cobbler!
Here are links to some of the videos I referenced:
“Shoe Construction: Goodyear Welted Shown”:
• Shoe construction: Goo...
“Shoe construction differences - Bonded, Blake Stitched, & Goodyear Welted”:
• Shoe construction diff...
“Resoling at Home FAIL… Cobblers are Pros for a Reason!”:
• ReSoling at Home FAIL....
NOTE: I've changed from using DAP Weldwood Contact Cement to what the Professional cobblers use: Master All Purpose Cement by Petronio, available from www.PanhandleLeather.com
The eBay seller for the “Goodyear Men/Women Rubber Top Lifts Heels Dozen Shoe Repair - 6 pair” is Nordshoe. They are 6mm thick = .24” thick, but they measure closer to 7/32” = .22” or 5.5mm thick. Allen Edmonds factory heels are around 5 to 5.5mm thick, therefore in my opinion, ¼” thick or 6.35mm thick top lifts are too thick for AE dress shoes.
I purchased 10 iron (approx. 5mm thick) heeling rubber sheet and heeling leather from Landwerlen Leather (an “iron” is a unit of measuring leather thickness. One iron = 1/48 inch):
365 Illinois St.
Indianapolis, IN 46225
(317) 636-8300
They were extremely difficult to find at a reasonable price before finding Landwerlen! Most online providers either would not sell to the public, or were overseas and shipping was exorbitant. Most pre-made leather-rubber combo heels are too thick.
Music Credits:
RU-vid Free Audio Library
"Rise" by Aq Xico (instrumental only) Good Vibes By Alegal 98bpm used with permission from Aq Xico, music rights owner.
12 сен 2024
