Here is my tutorial on how to repair your VW throttle cable. This method works best of the cable has broken off to where you cannot tape a new cable to the old one and pull it through.
I've been looking all over the internet on how to do this but I guess most people think of this as common knowledge and don't bother to post how to do it. And you're on here giving a detailed video for the next generation of do-it-yourselfers, I tip my hat to you sir.
Thank you so much for posting this man! I am getting ready to do this today for my 68 bug. I looked a couple months ago for a video demo and watched over ten vids. None were anything close to as good as yours. So good job! Peace!
Semi-correct, but your adjustment is wrong, or rather not done, or mentioned. But a good video and solid looking bug. I've likely done this a hundred times or more . When the pedal is fully depressed there should no stress on the carb or manifold, yet it should be 99.9% open throttle. Your foot, and that cable can stress it easily. The result over time, a bad carb gasket, bad carb base, bad manifold flange, Loose carb, and/or cracked manifold boots. Mostly resulting in an intake air leak, which means not running well if your lucky. Or unlucky, overheating from lean air-fuel mixture. Dropped valve from lean mixture, etc Lean and heat are the V-dub air-cooled enemy. This is pretty much how a dealership did it, it is also described near the same way, in many "better" manuals. To achieve this adjustment, after connecting cable to the pedal, it should be fully depressed, and held there by you assistant (a brick on it, or 2x4 wedged against the seat or steering wheel). At the carb, the throttle should be held opened 99.9% or till butterfly valve is vertical (max flow). Now tighten the barrel clamp (real name), while holding the cable taunt with pliers. A small juggle, but not too difficult. Now remove the brick. If the throttle doesn't close 100%, you have the wrong throttle arm on the carb, or incorrect pedal arm. They need to "match". Swapping a carb or motor, etc. can create a tiny issue. Aftermarket parts differ from factory parts, and factory parts differ slightly too. The goals here are getting the throttle open for max flow, no stress on the carb or manifold, yet closed enough for an idle. No stress and idle are the main concern, but on an air-cooled VW, max throttle flow is nice too. Some vehicles had a second tube on the back side from fan to seal tin, or even full length to the "wishbone". Otherwise a rubber sealing boot goes on the cable slid down onto to the end of the undersides tubes to keep the weather and dirt out of the tubes.
On my 68 I had much trouble making cable to pedal connection as shown at 5:46 and then keeping cable attached. It would slip out of the hole all the time. EXTREMELY FRUSTRATING. I assumed the bent cable end should go in the hole FROM the tunnel side of the pedal but to my utter amazement and against all logic the opposite is true and I fed it into the same hole from the opposite direction (TOWARDS the tunnel) and voila I am a happy camper. Also a grease gun on all moving parts is highly recommended and probably should regrease every year. Excellent video otherwise... PS use the hole in the side (hotizontal) not the top (mine has both).
I have a bonus thought for you. If you shrink tube the carburetor end of the new cable to the broken end (pedal end) of broken cable, once you disconnect the old cable from the carb. When you pull out the old cable the new cable comes along for the ride. Then connect new cable to foot pedal cut shrink tubing off connect new cable to carb. Toss old cable in garbage
I just did this today while replacing my throttle cable. I am a wannabe mechanic and thought there has to be an easier way to thread the cable without jacking my car up! Great minds think alike!
Just went back and found this video. My 74’s cable snapped like 5 minutes ago while trying to start it after a 45 minute drive. Hopefully will have it fixed in the next 30, minutes to drive home
I just pulled my old broken one out and put the new one in. I think I had to jiggle that little piece in the engine compartment. Thought about taping the new cable to the old one, but I figured it may come lose inside the tube.
Good video Can't help but observe that you glazed over what I think is the hardest part - hooking the end of the cable to the accelerator pedal arm. I had to remove the pedal cluster to get the cable hooked on, which means the clutch cable got unhooked from the clutch pedal hook, which means I had to loosen the clutch cable at the transmission to get enough slack to get it re-hooked then use three hands to get it all back together. a simple repair turned into a total cluster
How does the cable connect to the pedal?.....you show it just hanging there and say, "just like that", but its not connected! is there a C-Clip or what?
thank you - very helpful. Could';t help noticing you kinda blew off hooking up the cable to the pedal assembly. I'm assuming you have to remove the two bolts holding the pedal assembly to buy enough room to hook up the cable.
You could hook a drill up to the OLD cable and then run the cable through then turn on the drill when you have enough in the tube to control it. You may have to try different lengths of cable. I am not sure how much spray you could get to go down that tube. Also home depots sells a little thicker cable. Just a suggestion.
The guy doing this for me tried this, he said there is about 2 inches left rusted in there. He ran a copper tube under the carpet and on top of the floorboard near the welded seam and ran the cable through that- what are your thoughts on that make shift... it works, is it safe...
