How to replace washing machine bearings on Candy, Hoover, Otsein, Zerowatt. 

Nice video. Anyone who attempts this and manages to put it back together again deserves upmost respect. New machine here

This is the best tutorial for this procedure, on all the other videos they say to use a hammer and whack the bearing by the edge using a piece of metal. This method of using a bolt as a screw press is much more clever and makes it easier to insert the bearing without damaging it.

Very helpful, thank you. Just replaced bearings on our candy GO F 462-80. Comments of note not mentioned in this video. Unbolt dampers from underneath before lifting drum out and beware!! Our machine had a factory sealed drum. Carefully cut at the factory join seem with a hacksaw; re-joined with hightak beading sealant and 11 4mm bolts as a precaution. Full days work job done and saved almost £400. 😂

I used this to assist me with changing my bearings and found it really helpful especially as I didn't have any help when changing bearings or putting is back together. Good pace set all the way through and comentry good. Thank you very much.

You deserve a medal for all that work to replace that bearing. My opinion, manufacturers note, design a machine that’s much, much easier than completely stripping a machine, it would make everybody’s life much easier.🤔

Thanks for the video, just one thing to add, polish the diameter where the seal runs on the spider if the seal has leaked this will be corroded and the new seal will wear prematurely, also wipe a little silicone grease onto this area. Oh and never hit a ratchet with a hammer!

My washer dryer is a tedious piece of garbage too & all the parts I think I need for it aren't on your website so you have earned yourself a bock. Thanks for the video, it's very thorough!

Successfully changed the bearing with help of your video, many thanks! Some comments to help others, the old bearings on our now 19 year old machine was really stuck, so the big sledge was needed, and LOTS of time and patience I used a Dremel to cut species out of the rubber seal, aluminium oxide had really stuck into the rubber in a chemical manner, so a big nail nippers was needed to get the trashed rubber seal out first, to reduce the friction to get the ball bearing out. Remove the bearing seal and hit the bottom side of the outer bearing track with a really good mechanical support below is probably the way to go if you like to damage the aluminium surrounding the bearings as little as possible. The bearings was not easy to find on our Hoover HNF 9167-86S (they were out of stock), but here are standard ball bearings that was fit originally, with the part # listed in the service manual. Nearest back of machine: SKF 6207-2Z, metal shield (72x35x17mm) Hoover/Candy order code 24152043 Nearest drum/rubber seal: SKF 6208-2RS, rubber gasket (80x40x18mm) Hoover/Candy order code 09170838 I also used rubber seal 91406202 and tube gasket 92131689. But check the service manual for your particular machine for correct pars. Used freezer for the bearings and rubber seal, and heat gun for the outer metal, went real smooth.

REALLY good video! Excellent commentary and points of warning with great tips as well. As an engineer I typically don't bother with these as I'm pretty good at fettling whatever I'm fixing myself without instructions. Can be a pain (as recently) with "hidden" screws but just a question of looking fully for them. In this instance however, I'm glad I watched as I learnt a couple of neat tricks and it was very useful to see the problems caused by engineers who design for assembly and NOT disassembly. DOH! DOH! DOH! Personally I'd like to make EVERY fellow engineer go into the field ALONE and fix the stuff they've designed so badly ... they would soon learn to appreciate the issues they cause. I used to work for a VERY smart guy way back in 1973-4 who showed me how and why he could beat the Japanese at their own game of designing electronic audio equipment - modularity and ease of disassembly for test or repair. It used to drive him nuts also that stuff was so badly designed for maintenance. I noticed that ONE of the bolts that you used to attach the front counterweight was fairly long and suspect that it would do the job for pulling the bearings together, albeit that it would need a piece of pipe (or multiple 0.5" square sockets as spacers) since it is not fully threaded, in order to get the threads into the right position for a full pull, plus the addition of a suitable nut (M6, M8? I'm guessing) and the relevant sized washers. As an electronics engineer for over 45 years I know only too well the perils of replacing non-keyed cables back into their slots incorrectly, red marker wire not withstanding! So NOT only is it a really good idea to video (or take multiple angle still shots of) the disassembly of such items but ALSO use a felt tip indelible marker pen to mark numbers sequentially on the cables either directly, on the flat grey ribbon cables, or with a piece of masking tape around bundles of cables going to their relevant end points and mark the corresponding sockets a similar way. Makes for a much quicker re-connection, AND in the correct order. If it came off in that order it will go back simply (?? hopefully) and correctly just by reversing the sequence. Do it with all the other items including hoses too and everything is covered. A little bit longer to disassemble but so much time saved in reassembly. Thanks for the useful info on my EXACT model of machine that just started smoking! I HOPE the motor is OK - the stator winding seem good (not open circuit anyway) and I can't find any particular problems measuring the armature windings - they all seem good too, brushes are good so as there is noise from the bearings I'm hoping that the smoke my wife saw (white) was from overheating bearings!

Thanks for this video. After watching it I'll just buy a new machine. What a palaver for a bearing. 😊😊

Hey there. Tks for putting this vid up. Very helpful. The only thing I'm struggling with is separating the 2 drum halves. There doesn't seem to be any screws holding them together. I''ve been trying to pry them apart, but with no success. Any suggestions pls? My WM is the Hoover DYNS 7125 DG-5

Thank you for showing this... I thought it was a much harder job on a Candy-Hoover due to the fact that the front panel doesn't come off... maybe these machines don't very often need a bearing change. I wanted to venture into doing this in a 10 year old Hoover Nextra but I'm a bit put off by not having suitable tools and space for doing this, if I ask you to do this (at a charge), would you take the machine to your workshop?

Thank you very very much for this great video.I have the same problem and the same washing machine!!I start tomorrow to fix it!!Special thanks!!

Good video. very helpfull to the point no short cut thank you

I did this on a machine about 15 years ago, it was hard work without the proper tools and if I recall correctly the pump also failed a few months later. To be honest with new machines costing as little as £150 these days I doubt if I would attempt it now. And as I'm getting older it is no fun lugging around a washing machine! Good useful video though for those who do want to have a go.

The video is top. When I arrived at the division of the basket I found no screws but only joints and very hard putty

Brilliant video..My Candy CMD146 needs this surgery..new machine for me. 👍👍👍👍👍👍..

Thanks for the video, allowed me to see if I could save buying a new machine. To make it easier to remove the drum casing, you can remove the lower concrete block while it is still in the machine but unless you have the perfect spacer to hold it in place, it will be quite a challenge to put it back after the drum has been re-installed. My drum casing is badly scratched, the bearings look like gibbus moons and 2 of the 3 spider arms had cracked so new machine time! At least I have a new fire pit from the old drum with the plastic parts removed. The dish shaped pulley wheel can be switched from convex to concave to make a good stand with the bolt holding it in place (if you didn't trash the thread like I did :/) assuming you have a metal pulley wheel like in the Hoover version

Great video , definitely new machine

Thanks for your clear explanations

FYI, fit the door seal BEFORE remounting the drum, it's almost impossible afterwards. It's a fairly difficult job for the home gamer, only try if you're a decent home mechanic. Though, if the washing machine is stuffed, what have you got to lose?

Hello, I have the same washing machine as in the video, was working for 10 years, but it stopped recently. When I turn on the program, the water starts filling the wasching machine and that's all, it doesn't rotate. What could be the problem? Is it worth fixing it, or better to buy new washing machine? If I'm newbie, will I be able to fix this by myself?

do you know the size of the bearing and seal so that I can pre order

which silicon did you use..cheers

excellent video and well explained.

Very useful video. Thanks for sharing 💐

Hi. No need to grease the the rubber seal with silicon grease or such? I've seen videos with people applying and not applying such, so i am baffled. Is it ok/safe to reassemble my washing machine without applying special grease on the rubber bearing seal?

I am looking for a washing machine that has two bearings, one on each side of the drum,, and which is not suspended in shock absorbers and where the washing drum does not have cement weights on it, that machine should revolutionize the washing machine market :) is there any such machine on the market?

Hi. Are you the fella who was on Reddit a few years ago talking about the front felt seal on candy condenser dryers? I left you a message on there but the page might be inactive now. Need to replace our seal, hoping there's a video.... thanks.

Thanks very much. You are very help me 🤓👍

Hi Paul.. ok having seen your 20 min video i am convinced that repair is totally unfeasable for anyone other than yourself, and will have to get a new machine... Phew stress or what!

stick the bearings in a freezer bag and place them in the freezer for an hour or so before fitting , you will be surprised how easy they fit without stressing the bearing seats as you draw them in

Great video. It's help me a lot!

I am stuck on the drum supports. How do I remove them my washing machine is a Hoover dxa385ah

Great explanation

Add a little bit of grease to help make things easier. Good job anyway.

molto bravo ....

For re- inserti the bearing put them in the freezer for 30 min and then heat the housing with a phon.

supper work sir

Great video. The lack of floor protection had me cringing all the way through.

How long does it take for a "pro" to change the bearing for a Hoover washing machine?

Hi, we have a Candy AQ1000T washer which vibrates a lot on spinning. I've had the back off and suspension/dampers all look good. I presume its bearings. Is the technique to change similar to Candy videos you have on RU-vid or are there any specific pitfalls to avoid with my compact model? Can I buy a bearing kit off you?

Mine was totally impossible to remove the inner drum from the bearing. These machines are not made for this repair. Theyre made to be thrown away.

good video !!

in my washing mashine the drum is fix it with glue and i did not to separate, no bolts only glue ...how can i change de bearings?

i like candy washing machines

There's no mention of how to remove the suspension legs please can someone help me?

very good

Thank you sir

I'm going to do that

Chci toho chlapa domu !

I am an Engineer having worked on all aspects from 42 inch to 1/4 inch pipework but this job is never worth it better to buy a new machine

🌹

The cost of having this done by tradesmen would be comparable to cost of new machine.

Be aware for remove the Inner bearing you need to hammer you ass OUT .... For install new bearings put them in the freezer and warm the housing ..

Stuff that! I'm buying another machine lol

the side panel just disappeared as if by magic.

You touch the heating element on the ground.. Becareful next time

your bearing tool is not good if putting a bearing on a shaft pull on the inner race you must only push on the outer race in this case or the bearing wont last 5 mins OUTER RACE ONLY

How much you charge for this repair?

Never put bearing in like that you will destroy them

I did something like this a month ago with plans from Woodglut.