Ive done this a few times, I think a good tip would be to remove the brake fluid cap and put a rag over the top of it. So when you push back the piston, you don't cause any damage to the servo. That way you relieve built up pressure. GREAT VIDEOS by the way :)
BEN...I JUST WANT TO TAKE A MINUTE TO SAY THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS VIDEO!!! IT SHOWED ME HOW SIMPLE IT WAS TO REPLACE MY CAR'S BRAKE PADS THAT I FINALLY DID FOR THE FIRST TIME IN MY WHOLE LIFE. BEFORE FOR ME IT WAS REALLY IMPOSSIBLE,,I ALWAYS HAD TO PAY OR LOOK FOR HELP WITH MY FRIENDS..I REALLY APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO AND THE WORK YOU DO AND THE TIME YOU TAKE TO DO IT...THANK YOU VERY MUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is the rubber BOOT on the steering rack. The 'ears' of that so called 'dog' is the spring clip that holds the rubber boot on. It is not a 'dog', but from the end of that rubber boot, it looks sort of like a stuffed dog toy.
Here are a couple things to note. Make sure the master cylinder is not full when you press the piston back into the caliper or it will overflow. I find it better to place the old brake pad onto the piston before pressing it back into the caliper so you will have less chance of cracking the piston if you crank too hard on the c-clamp. Lastly, not all cars are set up to just press the piston back into the caliper. You need a special tool for some vehicles.
I believe the video was very well presented and accurate. The brake fluid issue is if you change the front and /or back brakes at different times you should change the fluid at that time and making it unnecessary to change the fluid again unless it is a few years between the front and back change, in that case change the fluid again. It is best though to change all the pads at the same time if it is possible. If you have never did your brakes before I recommend this one.
Jesus Christ this video proves most mechanics are fucking crooks. Wish there were more like this guy. My local one is asking me $600 to have this simple job done.
***** Thats my point though. The materials costed me 50 bucks and I did this myself. That would mean my local shop wanted to charge $550 in labor for something that took me maybe 30 minutes?. Thats fucking bullshit.
Just got back from Pep boys they want $580 to replace pads! He says five eighty i say five hundred eighty! wat pads for a 4 at advance auto $50 and a mexican in the parking lot $50 30 minutes later done for $100 some mechanice shops charge too much
Did any one else spot the hidden dog in the video @4:19 also Awesome video. Great bit of explaining and demonstration. Also, I know lots of people think the safety side is silly but think it's great you are showing the best practice by having the gloves and glasses on.
I spent a couple of hours today just trying to unscrew the bolt with a lever... it's harder than it looks and especially since most people don't have the tools that he has
The only important thing that the video missed was watching brake fluid so that it does not overflow when compressing the piston with the c-clamp. If your reservoir is low enough this might not matter, but it's best to make sure this does not overflow, and also don't forget to top off the brake fluid after you're all done if you had to remove any to start with.
Lol this is from 8 years ago. But ya it helps but it also depends on how much it was compressed. If it’s only a little it not a big. If you need to compress a lot then yes remove the cap
@@kenkyuen What about opening the bleeder valve on the caliper when compressing pistons? I just did brakes on my bike and compressed the pistons without doing that, now my master cylinder won't pump fluid/brake lever fully depresses no matter how much I pump/can't even bleed the brakes so it doesn't appear to just be air in the lines (mc seems to be shot from all the crud when compressing pistons). I think I need a new master cylinder now 😑
Colton Barrett I don’t know bikes as much. But normally you open the cap to the master cylinder when you compress the piston. I guess you could open the bleeder valve to compress the piston but normally I pump the brakes to bleed them. Not sure exactly what’s wrong with your bike :(
@@kenkyuen okay well I appreciate the reply, I'm gonna go to a shop and ask them about it. As far as cars I've also heard those with ABS can be damaged by not doing the same thing though.
Thanks dude, as a guy who only knows how to replace tires and spark plugs, this was pretty easy to follow for someone like me who is nearly illiterate in the vocabulary of auto mechanics.
Think you have to pump the the breaks after the job to bring the pressure back up. I know little about cars. Just my input. On another note, I'm changing out my pads, how do I know my rotors also need replacing?
It is a good idea to pump the breaks afterwards. Your car will have a specific safe width for your rotors. If they have worn down too much, they will need replacing. You can normally tell if they're worn because they'll have a lip around the edge where the pads don't rub on it. Your best bet is to google the legal wear for your rotors and then measure them.
awesome vid. thank you so much. i am a diy guy on my car (no cash) so i will do my own breaks. but of course i don't want to risk my fam. so i appreciate the step by step show how.
carol s it’s recommended it depends on how much you need to compress. It’s it’s a lot the yes remove the cap. If it’s a little it’s not really required
Ben, I agree! I HATE doing drums. I wanted to add to how you compressed the plunger back into the caliper.....I use an old brake pad so the plunger stays flush. Im sure you already know this. Great vids
An idea for a later episode, how to replace your rear drum brakes with discs. This is something I want to do one day and a video showing how would be very useful.
It might but, some/most cars have rubber around the bolt (pins) meaning you should use silicone grease while others might only have metal and in that case you could use the same kind. They actually sell specific lubricants for brake calipers and brake jobs! You could always ask at the store for them.
This video is 11 years old now, but it still holds up pretty well. I wonder if the presenter's descendants will watch it someday to see what their great grandpa was like.
Great video. I have a question regarding a Mazda 3 2010. I recently had my breaks done, yet when we are driving slowly and we apply the breaks there is an embarrassing squeak that occurs. What could possibly be causing this if I just had them done. I know breaks need time to settle but it's been a month. We went back to the mechanic and he adjusted them but same result. Any advice?
If the rotors weren't replaced cleaned or resurfaced properly it can cause a squeak. Some times they'll forget to reinstall the retaining clips which help cut down on squeaking . It's also a possibility you got played. I've seen shops charge people for a job they never did or half assed.
With gas prices going up and up and people switching to hybrid and electric cars I would love to see a video with maintenance tips. The other day I needed a jump for my car and I popped open my girlfriend's hybrid's hood only to see no battery to get a jump from. Can you make a video of simple things like how to safely clean under the hood of hybrid cars? Or a video on how to change the regenerative breaks? Thank you in advance.
I usually add a little lube to the pad plate where it makes contact with the bracket that supports the ends. Some models are equipped with polished shims to reduce clearance and ease movement with out wearing the supporting bracket. The shims can usually be cleaned and re-used. I do not grease the bracket just the part of the pad plate that makes contact. Allowing the plate movement to spread the lubricant reduces the chance of the lubricant being pushed on to the rotor surface.
You may want to use the old pad to push the caliper in and DEFINITELY open the bleeder screw when retracting the piston unless you want to buy an ABS unit or master cylinder. Jeez...
This is great. Other than the sensor squealing, what is the rule of thumb for replacing pads (20,000 miles? 25,000?). Also - Can you do this with a regular tire jack, or do you need a lift to do it? Not much room with a jack, but would love to try to do this to save a few bucks
He forgot to mention the most important step. After replacing the brake pads you have to PUMP THE BRAKE PEDAL 3-5 times or until the pedal is firm !!!. Otherwise if everyone just followed the steps in video and did not pump the brake pedal their vehicle would not stop and cause a serious accident!
watching this before heading to my dads auto shop to change my own brakes.... im a 47yr old grandmom fixin to fix my own brakes...pray i dont die when im done
Great video, how would you recommend the home DIY change their breaks without access to a lift like you have in the video, would you suggest a simple jack or a set of 4 ramps?
When doing brake service (to renew or just stop brake noise), you must thoroughly clean then use an OE Approved install procedure. OE’s now recommend using brake soap & water to clean friction surfaces, scrubbing (not spraying) demagnetizes to release metal, oil & dirt. To reassemble, always apply OEM synthetic lubricants & rotor conditioning treatment. Learn more tips and this OE Approved Procedure, it extends life, eliminates noise & actually reduces stopping distance 5% plus... stopbrakenoise
A side note, remove the cap on the reservoir before compressing the caliper piston. When doing all four calipers, its a guarantee the fluid will pop the cap off.
I have a question, does it matter the type of car it is because my friend told me that it depends on what type of car it is? Also how much can i get brake pads and where can i usually get them at?
+brandon ralph your friend would be correct. Different vehicles have different brake calipers. In general, it can all be relatively the same set-up, however there are different size pads, anti-rattle clips, etc that can make procedures different than what you saw here. As for brake pad costs, I'm not entirely sure, but they shouldn't cost you more than $30. I have a 94 Ford Ranger and the pads for it were about $25.
As long as you didn't have to remove the brake line for any reason you shouldn't need to bleed. The fluid will rise in the master cylinder as you push the piston in, so you will probably want to open it up to make things easier. Also keep an eye on the fluid level as you can overflow it if you aren't careful. Suck some out with a turkey baster if you have to. Do inspect your brake lines while you're doing this, looking for cracking and leaks. If you need to replace them it's not a terrible job, but you'll need to bleed the system after. Also check the rubber boot around the piston. If you have to replace that you'll need to bleed, also.
Chico Swazi You're right but remember to do that before you crank the engine. Otherwise the pump will pump air in the lines and then the brakes will have to be bled.
@@anytowni6141 In, but not out. So, when you push the piston, the fluid in the reservoir will rise, compressing the air in the reservoir. If you have to push the piston in a great amount, the air in the reservoir will be compressed a lot and will resist the pushing of the piston. Since the reservoir doesn't let air out, you must loosen the cap on the reservoir so the air can escape.
I was going to change my own brake pads to save myself some $$ ....after seeing this and hearing some terms Im going to pass 😂😂 Ok time to make a call to my mechanic I heard squeaking and squealing 2 days ago and Im over it 👌🏾
I had front break pads changed 2 days ago at an auto center. it seems not working smoothly. When I hit the breaks down to the end to completely stop the car, I heard a sound and feels the car shaking (once) at the time of stopping, especially when the car is stucked in the traffic, which requires frequently hitting and releasing the breaks. Please advise what could be the problem. Thank you so much.
Great video, should've mentioned to atleast take the cape off the master cylinder. When pushing in the caliper on the break, it is easy for break fluid to come out of the master cylinder
i have a 2010 hyundai genesis coupe 2.0t.....the issue im having is that when i start the car up when warn, it almost stall then goes back to its normal and the feels like it lost some power......and i have no check engine light. what do u think the problem could be?
Remember to press the brake pedal a few times when you're finished, so that the pads will sit correctly. A colleague of mine forgot that, and he ended up denting a customers cars.
thanks for the video! I'm gonna do this for the first time in my life on MY rabbit haha. I'll have my computer and this video with me every step of the way.... wish me luck!
if one of the dual piston is slightly leas compressed than the other one maybe by like 5mm will it make even contact once i pump my brakes during normal use?
These boogers were hard to change... trying to get the caliper piston to go back in... we finally got them in far enough. I simply don't have the patience to change brakes. I hope braking systems get far easier in the future.
+Chris Cunningham If it's a chore to get the piston back in, you might need to get yourself a new caliper. IF that caliper seizes up, you can cause a wreck
good video, just a small bit of advice when compressing the piston, you should always try and use a piece of timber to protect the piston from the c clamp !
before attempting to push the piston back in its bore, open the bleed screw first. rust & sediment result as moisture accumulates in the brake fluid. some unknowing technicians will bottom out the piston in caliper bores without opening the bleed screw. this forces the sediment from low parts of the system back to the ABS and master cylinder. _according to this automechanic book i am reading right now.
It never ceases to amaze me how badly these vids are made. Was top left on the brake fluid reservoir ? What was the grease ? If it was a petro chem based grease it will rot the rubber boots on the sliders. NEVER use clamp like that on bottom of piston.....leave the old pad in and clamp on that. Even some "silocone"greases are petro chem in them.
Rule-of-thumb: Tighten until very snug (until you think it's tight), then tighten just a little more. This rule-of-thumb does not apply to engine bolts or any other kind of pressure vessel which you should use a torque wrench on.
I was trying to take the caliper out but it won't budge. I can see a piece of metal through the mid section of the caliper. I looks like a clip of some sort. is this what is preventing me from taking the caliper out? I didn't see it in the video.
it depends on you. if you brake hard a lot you will need to change more offten. but you can check how thick your brakes are by poping your tire off and look at how thick your brake pads are.
This is one of those things that I usually outsource - I buy nice ceramic brake pads (with rotor if it needs it) and just take it to a mom & pop shop and ask them to put it in. Usually it's less than $50 for both brakes and maybe $30 for the rotors. I COULD do it myself but pulling out the tires is such a hassle when you don't have a lift and just a stock jack.
