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I recently rescued a sickly looking trap from Walmart and I immediately followed you!! So much new growth has already come out, I can't wait to see how she blossoms when it's out of dormancy!
I’ve put paper coffee filters in the bottoms of flower pots (one per pot), to prevent soil coming out of the holes in the bottom. It also helps wick moisture up into the pot, if you’re watering from the bottom. A paper towel does the same thing, but the coffee filter doesn’t disintegrate as fast, and, if you buy the cheapest filters, they cost less than most paper towels. For a small pot, I use part of a coffee filter. There’s no need to buy different sizes, just cut them to fit. California Carnivores puts a little wad of sphagnum moss in the bottom of a pot, for the same purposes. That works, too.
Nice demo, great photo quality, props, crap load of information sources for any use level. You really have worked to put out a quality video. Thanks, you deserve any rewards for this amount of effort.
If you have problems with finding sphagnum moss in plant stores, like here in Norway they don't sell that, but you can check out pet stores! Especially typical reptile stores, they have sphagnum and different types of substrate. And they are very carefull with what they are using! 😊
I buy coco substrate and sphagnum moss in dried condition. Very practical! Use a blend of chopped up sphagnum, coco and perlite, 1-0.5-1 for almost all of my carnivorous plants. It drains ok, and it's said to be great for plants with weak roots. But I'm also trying out the same mix for some of my tropical plants, much less watering going from an airodmix to a bog mix for tropicals 😮😊 two months into the test I'm giving it 8/10, especially for offshoots and cuttlings 👍
I would be careful with Coco, some of it has really high traces of salts due to being harvested in coastal locations. I try to avoid coco but if it's working for you, I'd go with it! Keep an eye on your plants for mineral burns.
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Thanks for the tip! I wouldn't use any kind of coco, but reptile grade with info about everything what's in the package and use, I feel safe with. But I'm gonna keep my eyes open! 👍
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub a family member bought it for me from Meijers, apparently some larger chain stores will deliberately tie up the plant under the soil so it dies and you buy more plants? Idk hoping the trap pulls through, it’s looking promising!
Just got done doing a ruthless prune on my sarracenia pitcher plant and a smaller prune on my flytrap. The only issue I have had is the tops closing as it remove dead leaves and move the alive leaves around to prevent them clumping up on top of each other. Hopefully this doesn’t damage my plants health too much
It shouldn't. I try to avoid it but I've never seen a plant actually die or get sick from triggering traps. Maybe a trap or two don't get quite as big. But no harm to your plant.
Can Venus Flytraps eat pill bugs? I fed 1 pill bug to 2 of my flytraps, and can Flytraps digest bugs that are about halfway hanging out of the traps? Both traps given the pill bugs have part of the bugs sticking out.
They sure can! They can't digest the shell very well and it might occasionally kill a trap (Which is normal and fine) but they can definitely eat Rolley Polleys! Usually, if the trap doesn't close all the way, it won't be able to digest the insect. My experience is that it will usually kill the trap if it only partially closes. The trap can't make the seal to release the digestive enzyme. If possible, I'll pull a bug that is sticking half way out. If it's not possible just leave it and let nature take it's course. A couple dead traps won't harm the overall health of the plant!
From what I’ve heard the substrate will eventually go bad. I don’t know how or why, if it’s outdoors then maybe some dead leaves and stuff will fertilize the substrate maybe but I don’t really know for sure
That's right bouncy. The old substrate can go bad. It can grow mildew and mold and eventually be bad for the flytrap. The old substrate can also (like you said) collect minerals and nutrients over time. Although, this can be helped by top watering once a month and flushing the plant. Either way, long fiber sphagnum moss should be repotted once a year or two and peat moss every 2 to 4 years.
Bro ever since I got my Venus I’ve watched all ur videos and it’s thriving now not the greatest shape but it’s came back after losing most of it to sink water 😢 and drying out but ever since I started using spring bottled water mixed with a little bit of organic lemon concentrate juice it’s came back with new shoots and in full sun. I have a question on soil tho I got some from Amazon not what u have in the description but wanted to see your opinion it’s made by perfect plants, it’s called organic carnivorous plant soil.
I have a couple of plastic containers, the top one with holes, the bottom one to catch water. I put my substrate in the top container (the one with holes) and place it in the bottom container. I then use distilled (or zero water from my zero filter) to rinse the soil. I use a fork to mix the soil up while the water slowly drains out the holes. I measure the water in the bottom container with a TDS meter. Once the water shows at 20 or under, I consider it a done deal, the soil is ready to use. If you want to simplify this, you can just fill your planter up your soil. Before you plant your plant, just run water through it. Let the water drain out the bottom, keep meausre the run off until its at 20 or under. They say 50 or under, but I always do 20 to be safe.
aw snap... i bought a black pot cause I dont see many other colers for my venus flytrap. is there a number of hours I have to check over my plants in black pots to at least cool doen the pot? or do i really have buy another pot with orange?
Black is probably fine as long as you don't get temperatures that are too hot. If you have temps over 100 F, sometimes the black pot can help cook the plant. I recommend a lighter color, but you can get by with a black. I wouldn't worry about buying more, they should work fine.
You can put them outside whenever. You just have to really be careful. If they've been inside since germination, they will be super sensitive to full sun. I'd go an hour of direct sun a day for a few days. Bump it up an hour at a time and keep an eye on them. A slow acclomation is the way to get young venus flytraps hardened off and fully acclimated.
I have never been a plant guy so i am wondering if you can just put the current soil that they are in instead of taking all the soil off before putting it in the new pot
That really depends. Do you trust thr source of the soil? I rarely do. I like to get the old stuff off. However, if you really don't have confidence to do that process, you can leave the existing soil on. It's just a best practice to replace old soil. Bacteria and critters can build up and cause problems.
@CarnivorousPlantsHub I think the soil is fine. I've had it for a few days now and haven't really noticed a decline in health. They knew all that stuff. I just want it in a bigger pot
@@TheMoistLord Yeah, springtails like moistness, and they eat stuff like mold, rot, various tiny mites and rarely actually eat the plant so I like adding them everywhere, and they can't really survive outside of a damp & moist environment, but for peace of mind I keep my plants in a terrarium of sorts, with an old terrarium grow light. Unfortunately I can't cohab them with my snakes or snails, because the snakes just lay on them and my snails like alkaline soil and would eat the plants xD However I don't know much about plants, I just think "Well, that's something that would be a thing in the wild, so it should work" and it often does
I some questions, if I don't have peat moss soil and I also don't have money then what can I use?? Also I have dried pine needles and horse manure so can I use that instead of peat moss?? And one more thing what about desert sand can I use that???
Manure is a hard no, the nutrients in it that is good for other plants is harmful to flytraps. Peat moss lacks those nutrients which is why it's used. Desert sand just depends, I would have to test the water it sat in with a TDS meter. Sand needs to be inert and not leach any minerals into the water/soil.
How did you rinse the soil properly before using it? If I am not mistaking you created a video on how to do that, but I just can't recall which video that was.
Just remove the tray and put the pot somewhere you don't mind the water leaking. Outside on the ground, something like that. Then just flush distilled water through the plant. The more you flush the more nutrients and minerals get washed out. This is a good practice a few times a year even after the initial flush as things can build up int he soil!
If you are in the US, I recommend checking with California Carnivores. You can also watch buy and sell groups on facebook, that's where i usually get mine. Flytrapstore . com (Matt Millerr) is also an awesome place to get seeds or plants. Never buy from Amazon, Ebay or anywhere you can't trust the seller. Buy from personal sellers or trusted nurseries. You can check out some seeds from California Carnivores right here, www.californiacarnivores.com/collections/seeds/products/dionaea-m-damon-s-old-clone-seed-pack-12-seeds-pack?aff=7
@@funkblackHiya, I have used perlite with my succulents for many years and have found them to often times float to the top of the soil. I have since replaced perlite with Bonsai Jack mixture with great success. Worth it, but much more costly. Others have had the same experience with their carnivorous plants soil mixture both with spaghnum or peat moss. If perlite is working for you, stick with it 😊
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub Aloha! Pumice sounds great! I have some pumice that I use for my succulents. I'll give them a good rinse with distilled water. I ordered the zero water pitcher you recommended, but it will take 2 weeks or so to reach me in Dubai.
I am curious if the plant will die or experience negative effects if they're not repotted at all. I have a friend from a facebook group who kept clumps of flytraps in a big pot and they've been there since 2010.
I think it kind of depends on how it grows. I was considering leaving this plant, but the way it clumped up just didn't seem healthy. I felt like I needed to pull it a part due to how dense it was. I think the way they grow and how dense really determine if you can just let them go crazy in a pot or if you need to divide (thin) them out a bit. Plus, if you divide, overtime, you may get 5 plants that can fill up pots, instead of just one big one.
Hey so I was gone for 2 days and forgot to water my vfts… and one of them is looking droopy and where it was nice and firm, it is now droopy and very very slightly discolored 😬 But the rhizome is still firm so I hope i didn’t kill it
I was just wondering what other type of sand you suggest. The link is no longer active. I am thinking about making my own. I live in Columbus GA and can't find anything other than miracle grow. I have been binge watching your channel and am feeling a little less anxious about trying to care for a VFT.
Oh shoot, I didn't realize the link was broken. you can use this, amzn.to/3RrSvjR. I think you can also get pool sand like this at your local Ace Hardware, if you have those in your area! Thank you for checking out the videos, I appreciate it so much! Let me know if you have more questions!
Sorry for more questions that are unrelated to this video, but 1. how cold does the temperature have to be for Venus Flytraps to be in danger? Right now, it's between the 40s and 70s and it's spring time. 2. If the rain water I collect has leaves and twigs in it, is the water to safe for Venus Flytraps? 3. Should I have a schedule for watering my Venus Flytrap or should I only water them when they are light? 4. Are Venus Flytraps fine when it's cold at night time?
1. 40s and 70s should be fine. They really aren't in harm until they have been under freezing for a couple weeks in a row. I see people thawing them out and them making a full recovery. 40 degrees should be fine! 2. This is a bit more tricky, leaves and twigs can leave behind dissolved solids. For the most part I think its okay, as long as the leaves and twigs have not been soaking for a long time. However, the only way to be 100% is to get a TDS meter and measure the water. Anything under 50 PPM should be good to go! 3. Watering schedules are tricky because the amount of water really depends on the temperatures. I actually have an entire video that deep dives into this, check it out! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hfQKNffFp3s.html 4. Same rules apply for night time as above. During the growing season though, they won't grow very well if it's constantly going really low. Spring and late fall are okay, during summer, it shouldn't get too cold at night. Hope that helps!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thanks for the info! But, should I water my Flytrap less when the cooler seasons like fall or winter start? So example, I water my Venus Flytrap every 2 days in the summer time, 4 days during fall, and 8 days during winter.
Definitely! My best suggestion is to get familiar with the weight of your planter. Feel how heave it is when you just finished watering. Then feel how heavy it is when it's empty and needs more water. Once you get really familiar with it, you will always be able to water accurately, not based on days but based on need.
I'm a sucker for the terra cotta color, these are plastic just the terra cotta color. 2 inch - amzn.to/3ve0tV1 and 3 inch - amzn.to/3veOmHg and 4 inch - amzn.to/3Knsv56
I just repotted my fly trap I rescued from home Depo I'm new to all this I really find the plant amazing.. I went out and got some 100% natural horticulture grade carnivores soil mix I got some light color plastic pots and I've heard mixed reviews to keep them in a tray full of water some day to not as of rn they have been repotted and not in a tray full of water I used distilled water I just wanna make sure I did the right thing also I lined the bottom of the pots with paper towel then dirt packed then more dirt loose then planted them and watered them did I get it right ? They also aren't red like urs there's one trap that's a bit red and new growth that's red on the bottom one leaf close to the trap is turning black but it's holding food in it is that normal?
Eduardo, this all sounds pretty good! Just remember, it's common for venus flytraps to go through a shock period after being repotted. Keeping them in a tray of water really depends on the conditions. If it's really hot, mid summer then I try to keep them in water 100% of the time. Never let that water run dry. If the weather is cooler, say under 70 degrees F, then I let the tray stay dry for a few days before I water. One of the best ways you can test for water is to know the weight of your pot. Feel how heave it is when it's full of water. Then, once the tray goes dry, feel it again. It should still have decent weight. After a day or two, grab it and feel the weight again, it should feel pretty light. Knowing the weight of your pot is one of the best ways to help you determine if water is needed. Until then, you can stick your finger in the top and go down about an inch. If you feel moisture an inch down, you are okay. If no moisture is felt, definitely time to water. The surface doesn't need to be wet all the time, but below the surface should always be wet. The roots should ALWAYS have access to water. As for the trap turning black after catching an insect, yes, this is pretty normal!
It shouldn't, I mean, decorating can take many shapes. But, if you are just putting something on the outside of a plastic pot, I can't imagine it having much of an effect on the plant.
I actually do have a question. I live in the netherlands and the weather is very unstable so to say. So regular rainy days and regular sunny days. Is it possible that i could cause your plant to grow a bit smaller or weird? Cause mine do keep getting new growth, so thats good, but one of them did get a bit of a red coloration on the leave (new trap and another new one is also slowly opening up). I did check for possible rotting, but negative, all is good at that end. I do also give them proper watering (checking everyday in case they do need it), i keep them outside, bring them to the sunlight whenever its there (which seems to give them growth spurts at times), also seen a lot of new tiny ones coming up. but im not sure of i should be worried or not. (Some traps did wither, but i know thats normal). The reason why im questioning it is because it did start out bright green and the new ones are, but also some red with them, comes over time too. Just curious if the weather has anything to do with it. Sorry for the long text, but im a newbie in it and i want them to do well and survive ^^"
So, to answer your question, yes. A lot of rain and less sunny days can diminish growth a bit. These plants need a lot of full sun, the more sun they get the healthier they will be. I also live in an area where spring time is definitely more cloudy rainy days than super sunny ones, so I feel your pain. Personally, since I'm trying to do this on a larger scale, I do use grow lights to extend the growing season. I'll probably move them from my lights to outdoors come June, when I know it won't get below 40 degrees outside during winter. However, for just a couple plants as a hobbyist, what your are doing is just fine! The red comes from the more sun or light they get. Almost every flytrap starts off a shade of green when it comes out then slowly gets more red as it's exposed to more light. Some will even turn fully red if exposed to enough light. The red is a good sign that they are getting enough light! Sounds like your flytraps will be just fine and will continue to do better as they are in more sun!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub thank you so much for replying to my comment and help me out!! ^^ now i understand and even more excited that im doing good with them ^^
Yes. Definitely. Squirrels and birds will also mess with them. If you use long fiber sphagnum moss, squirrels and birds will pick at them and knock them over. Some rodents will eat at them. I don't have too many issues personally but my pots get knocked over occasionally by squirrels. You can put a layer of sand to keep them from digging out the moss. Some people resort to caging their plants in to keep all pests out.
The different cultivars grow different. Some of them grow very vigorously like this one. Some of them grow longer flytraps but aren't as bushy. Some of them grow slower and won't produce that many traps. It just kind of depends on what you get and how they grow!
Hi I am from 🇮🇳Indian I want to grow venus fly trap plant I order seeds from Amazon And what care I should take and what type of setup I should make for venus fly trap plant Please reaplay
Sorry for another question, once again, but are my Venus Flytraps fine? I got four and I repotted them all in plastic pots (one is smaller than the other pots because I didn't have enough room in the wire cage I was using) and I'm using nutrient and mineral lacking soil with distilled water to water them. However, I'm not sure if my traps are doing well, and the wire cage seems pretty dirty. I also got the Flytraps on Sunday. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ok5kQobnEyE.html Here is a video on the condition of the plants. I just watered them yesterday in the Wire Cage and all the water has been drank.
They look pretty good! Just remember, when you repot venus flytraps, sometimes they go through a bit of a shock until they fully acclimate to their new climate. Make sure they are getting sun, but maybe only go 5 hours a day for the first week. Then bump to 6 the next week and keep moving it up one hour until they are in as much sun as possible. I'm also just a bit concerned about how deep they are in the pots. Sometimes, if they are that deep, the rim of the pot can block the sun a bit at different points of the day. This may not be an issue, but something to watch as they are in the sun. Everything else sounds and looks great!
Soon my friend, I hope anyway. I really want to start selling them, but I need to harden them off before doing that. I'm hoping I can get all of these growing new plants and dividing, one more division and I might start selling!
Lol. This did happen. It's always easier to ask for forgiveness than beg for permission. Plus the bow was clean in the cupboard before she saw the video!
@@CarnivorousPlantsHub I used to pronounce the word the same way - and the people at my local nursery apparently did not know any better as they did not correct me. I figured it out on my own when I noticed that there was no letter a in perlite.
I've had much success with both! Definitely not a n00b, haha. I think both growing substrates work well, but I prefer sphagnum peat moss with some silica sand and perlite. This mix lasts much longer than the lfsm. I think you could probably argue you get a little better growth short term from lfsm, but long term, peat moss is the way to go. I hate repotting them every year or two, since they can be so sensitive. With my peat mix, I repot way less. More like every 3 to 4 years.
