This is another how to video on Powder Coat, this time restoring two intake manifolds from a boat fire. This is the link to the Powder Coat article on my web site www.lever-fami...
I had a Victor JR Elderbrock intake like that on my 81 Z28 l loved the intake ever time I pop the hood it was the first thing I looked at the motor was built nice it was a fast ass car sure do miss it watching this video made me think about the car great work enjoy the video!!
The corrosion on the flat surfaces and the water passages is due to electrolysis. A sacrificial magnesium or zinc anode in the cooling system will help to prevent this. It may not prevent it completely, but it's pretty much the best that you can do. The idea it to make the anode get eaten away instead of the metal on your engine, hence the meaning of sacrificial. If you have the engine mounted in a boat and you have the "raw water", (the water that the boat is immersed into, be it salt or fresh), cooling the exhaust system or even cooling the engine, (usually fresh water), anodes will be required there to prevent electrolysis from eating away at the metal, too. There's anode equipped radiator caps available from car restoration companies like National Parts Depot, (NPD) that sell the "Rad-Cap". It's available for different makes and models and the listings will depend on which of their catalogs you're looking at. There's also the kind that is mounted to a 1/4 inch pipe plug that can be screwed into the radiator instead of the drain pet cock. If you Google "sacrificial anodes" you'll see them listed as well as the Rad-Caps. Give Summit Racing or Jeg's sites a look also, they should be selling them, too. Since the damage to the water ports on the manifolds wasn't addressed in this video, I'll tell you what I use to repair those surfaces that have been pitted and eaten away. Use "JB Weld" the regular kind, NOT the "JB Kwik" because the regular kind is much harder and more permanent. You may need to use some tape to dam up the JB Weld until it sets up. This is to keep it in it's place when it's applied to some surfaces because like any liquid it seeks its lowest level. It will actually flow out from where you apply it, so be aware of this. It may be thick, but it will fool you. Once cured and I've used it to repair the pitted areas on a water port around a flat surface, I use a good flat file to finish the surface off. If you find a low spot, apply more to that area and let it cure, the file again. For areas like the thermostat outlet, I use a Dremel tool and it's attachments to create the desired surface. Hope this helps.
Alodine all around? There are several versions, so I'm not sure which one is best as coatings have evolved so much in the last several decades, especially those with ceramic components. Anyway... Volvo Penta [which has a fair amount of marine experience] looked at this about a decade ago, and I think things turned out reasonably well.
@@ThrottleStopRacing Saltwater is hard on aluminum with or without it, but it might help some. I always found the business of returning starter & ignition current through the block [detroit small engine style] to be a questionable practice. It seems they figured the head and manifold bolts were sufficient and who used aluminum back in the day? Starter motors [car or small boat] typically do not have their return float and use the block. It's been a while since I saw a larger Cat engine in marine service, and all I recall of that setup is they definitely did not put current through the heads [or anyting top of the block]. Return for the starter lended on or near the starter somewhere, and other control/instrumentation all floated - returns wired back to the control box. I'm intrigued by what was called Alodine EC2 [an electro deposited titanium surface], but perhaps there's something better.. Henkel took all the Alodine products and renamed a bunch of stuff. I'd have to call them - my attempt to search their site last night went sideways.
Nice, about the lighting, you can try a LED strip, that's closer to you at the work bench, below you, aimed up. Even on the floor. Under lighting would make a big difference.
By powder coating or painting aluminum intakes seriously enables the dissipation of heat, which is one of the reasons aluminum is used for intake manifolds.
I tried using a Snap-on LED work light in the next video. It was very bight but did not seem to make that much difference. I'm thinking the real problem is the florescent lights behind me. It is fooling the camera. I have tried moving to the side of the work bench and that seems to be better. Now the problem is I cannot get far enough away from the camera. I may have to move the workbench. Thanks for you suggestion. Glenn Lever
Big difference! Came out looking like a piece of art! I noticed that you didn't tape up the intake on the first pass of grey @12:30 or so (closest intake). Was this intentional? Also, I had a thought about what might be corroding the metal where the water does not make contact. Could it be that dissimilar metals where used? If this had a copper or steel gasket - perhaps that is what is leading that corrosion? For the lighting situation - we use the exact same LED Snap-On light - often times we will put a piece of translucent plastic or paper over it to soften it up.
You have good eyes. I do not know how I missed that. When I took it out of the oven and found it I could nor believe I had missed it. I was lucky. There is a thing called Faraday effect. Being a computer guy you may know what that is.I talk about it at this link www.lever-family-racing.com/powder-coat/powder-coat-part-10-tips-and-techniques about 3/4s of the way down the page. Essentially the powder travels the easiest path to the object, down inside the intake would be a hard path when there is all that easy surface to get to on the outside of the intake (here is an example on an upper control arm www.lever-family-racing.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/12/Faraday-Cage-Effect-001.jpg ). The top flange for the carburetor got coated but nothing when inside. I had to spend some time with some 3M 07480 Roloc 2" Coarse Surface Conditioning Discs (different from grinding discs) www.amazon.com/3M-07480-Coarse-Surface-Conditioning/dp/B0002STR90 to remove the powder from the matting surface on top of the manifold. All turned out good in the end. Once again sharp eyes! Glenn Lever
What this old timer is charging Im sure he never falls short on materials needed, plus the other guy could have bought a brand new Intake for what the powder coat cost. Looks nice, but it's still been eaten and decayed by high heat fire temps and electrolysis in coolant.
I am generally doing "Favorites" for friends. I generally charge about half the cost of a new USA intake. I do a number of boat intakes and they ALL have electrolysis problems, just a fact of life and surely shortens the lifespan of the intake. In the end it is up to the end user and none of the electrolysis damage is hidden. Thank You.
This is what I use. www.thepowdercoatstore.com/collections/high-temperature-tape/products/2-inch-high-temp-tape my only complaint is at 400 degrees it shrinks a bit and sometimes falls off, Either way if you are doing a two step process you have to retape it.
Are there bubbles that you can get out of a cast intake? Like the one, I sent you pics of? I wouldn't think so. It is why I'm busy grinding the surface since it is so rough, and not smooth like most aluminum. Then sand the surface again with 40 grit disks, then 80, then 120. Then it will be ready to powder coat and end up with a nice shiny silver color to it instead of Ford Blue. Thanks for the video. I've watched it twice now.
"Are there bubbles" are you referring to "out gassing" before powder coat? That is more common with newly casted stuff (yes you can have gasses trapped in cast iron). If you are looking for a silver or aluminum color after powder coat, why not powder coat it the color you are looking for? Putting clear on top of the color you choose will add depth to the finish.
@@MrCbell57 Any body that does powder coat should know about out gassing. I put together a "primer" on powder coat and you can read it here. www.lever-family-racing.com/powder-coat It never hurts to ask what their process is. I " out gas" everything (500 degrees for 45 minutes), then let cool to room temperature. Glenn
What do you think about the chrome powder. I am thinking about doing the intake and valve cover on my mercedes om603 motor but I haven't heard much feedback on it.
I was wondering how this was done. Hey, question. I have a clear powder coated intake. What did it cost this guy to have this done for the intake? I'm going to be selling it on eBay and thought I would ad some of that cost to the price. Great info and video. Thank you!
@@ThrottleStopRacing Okay. I have a 351 4v Cleveland intake which I would like to have it done. $75 plus shipping both ways correct? The intake has lots of crud build up in low places. Like from the mold maybe? I could take some pics of it and send it to you. Or you might want me to clean these places with a mini grinder wheel before sending? I guess you would have to look at pics? Let me know. And if you need pictures of the imperfections on it, here is my email address so you can send me a request. itsmerickb@yahoo.com Thanks. Rick
Oven is good to 450 degrees Celsius, powder coat is cured at 400 degrees Fahrenheit. that is 204 degree Celsius.Melting point of aluminum is 660 degrees Celsius (1,220 degrees Fahrenheit)
Mr Lever, how does today's Powder-Coat materials react to engine heat? Id like to get me Vic Jr intake coated, it's brand new for next years build. Not an everyday driver, but a good street engine- will see some cruise time, car shows and some track time.
There is a video on RU-vid that compares the two, raw aluminum verses coated. the coated retains heat much longer and runs hotter. for show it's no problem . But for performance , heat is a power robbing issue. Worth looking up and considering.
I'm not really a business. I do these jobs mostly for "friends" . I purchased the equipment while building the El Camino and then the Dragster. Some are for free and I have charge $85 for a large high rise intake. I dought a true shop would do it for that.
Raise the camera up and aim it down. keep the overhead lights out of the shot as much as possible. A light reflector placed behind the camera or at least out of view and point it up towards your face.
