How to Restore Fender Deluxe Reverb Tube guitar amplifier Repair Noise volume drop Live Demo 

R-29 strain relief pliers, Heyco part no. 0022. $44 at Amazon.

Heyco also makes the chassis punches for the strain reliefs so you can make proper holes instead of hacky drilling/dremeling.

I bought the Proskit version for $14 on Amazon cause I only need them a few times a year. I'd buy the Heycos for daily use though. I made do without either for 40 years.

Does anyone know the exact name of the soldering iron used to solder to the chassis? Thanks !

@@donniefisk2252 It's an Ungar 3700 and I believe it has a 4035 heating unit in it.

Agreed, they sound better with dirt pedals to me. I was trying to work out why I liked my Princeton reverb better than my deluxe reverb. It turns out the deluxe normal channel sounds like the Princeton reverb, gainwise, and the vibrato channel on the DR is hotter and makes dirt pedals too fizzy.

@@jothanankrogh I am generally a clean player. But bought a ToneKIng Soloist several months ago, and found it exactly what I need for a bit more "character" and a smidgeon of dirt.

This makes no sense. I think you are talking about new products intended for market, not refurbishing old equipment. Are you suggesting that the power cord should have been left as two-prong if not done the way you are suggesting?

@@cloudconnect I'm not suggestion that all. In fact I did say what DLAB did was fully compliant to current UL standards. Yes, I am referring to the current market, that being since 1986 BTW, requiring the AC cord ground connection tied to chassis through a dedicated mechanical connection. You cannot attach the line cord ground sharing a screw that also serves as a mounting means for some other component. Of course repair of vintage equipment is not under UL or any authorized test lab's jurisdiction. But still the DLAB repair is fully compliant to current UL standards. He did mention that he did not want to use the power transformer screw to attach the ground lead. I am just pointing out that is also the official safety standard and why it is so.

@@andydelle4509 I seem to remember reading a long time ago that it is not advised to solder a safety ground, because the solder can melt out under a high-current short situation, and then there goes your safety ground. Instead, a mechanical (I.E. crimp) connection is recommended from wire to terminal to (dedicated) ground screw in chassis. Although legally this might only apply to new manufacture, there's sound reasoning behind it, and it doesn't take much more work to accomplish, so I follow this approach even with retrofits to vintage equipment or DIY projects.

No! you leave the damn thing there because it can be used as a solder connection point or you can modify your amp to turn it into a feedback loop defeat switch. Remove it and you are left with a hole to fill. I HATE chassis holes!

that is the tool I use

Hello, Sorry I do not know anyone in your area. Not many Tubesters around anymore

@@d-labelectronics What is a death cap?

Hi Mike. I think Terry uses a 100W tip (the tip sets the power on these, you can change 'em...).

I use a 350 watt Weller soldering gun for the same job. Works well. $10.00 at a yard sale.

I have a set on the way, provided by a thoughtful person

Uncle Doug is just as backed up as Terry.

@@patlaw53 Then Doug might be able to recommend someone. Seems to be a shortage of facilities especially since Guitar Center is going under.

I can second that, had mine about the same time frame. ~Jack, VEG

Good point man

Well, if you leave junk old caps in the circuit, you really risk destroying other things. Like tubes and transformers.