After this process stick sand paper to the head and use it as the tool to sand the block true. I’m about to use this process to true the head and block of my 1929 Ford Model A.
This does work, I've done it many times and not just aluminum heads cast iron, old good cast iron engines from the 40s. However a head that size you can get resurfaced without even taking it apart for a hundred bucks, maybe hundred and twenty. Also while you have the head off check your block for flatness
Remember when we could take em in and get Valve job, resurfaced, and magni-fluxed (not in that order LOL) for $75 a head? That was awesome. Good advice on checking the block.
You DO NOT WANT CROSS HATCHING on the head or block! Unless you want to do this again in 10k miles. Especially on aluminum heads and block using MLS gaskets. The cross hatching will eat the head gasket alive. Might as well put the 80 grit sandpaper between the head and the gasket. As the aluminum head expands/contracts at twice the rate of the cast iron. Its constantly eating away at the gasket coating with a rough surface. The ideal head surface is nearly mirror smooth so the coating on the gasket can actually bond to the head. The inner sheet/sheets between the gaskets are designed for the outer sheets to slide on Any sanding/grinding mark's should be inline with the expansion/contraction of the head.
? surely the head will expand contract in all directions not just longitudinally. I personally finished off my cylinder head with 400 grit, not super fine but much better than the original manufacturing finish.
If the head gasket is designed to move with the block and head then it isn't really grinding away at the gasket now is it. It is moving with the block like you said.
*Thums Up ,8 I'm gonna share this out on Facebook good information thank you for sharing God-bless you bye for now your friend Ken* I had to play this back 3 times...
LOL....I love magic!!! Great how to video.....Watching you working the head reminded me of that stupid workout think that looked like a weight but you shook it. LOL
I am working on a 1994 & 1998 Jeep ZJ. I am so going to try this on those head. these are cast iron so with this method work on those heads? Pop a wheeling and the bonus material was a bright idea.
I like that you did a cross hatch but I see the shavings collecting in piles on the paper. A bit of dawn dish soap or what I use, WD-40 helps relocate the shavings away from your work. Nice job by the way.
You are correct about the Dawn and water. I use that when im doing aluminum with wet sand. Unfortunately I can only find dry sandpaper this big. With steel transmission parts I use 8X12 sheets of 3M and other brands of wet sand and old trans fluid over a bucket. I dont reme,ber if I mentioned in the video that I was stopping every so often and brushing off the sandpaper over the trash can. I had to do that about 50 times to keep up with the dry shavings.
Yeah Cris cross worked a charm in my head's. Showed all the low spots. I also changed grip positions to even out downward pressure. Cats up and going again no leaks
Pop a wheelie 😎 Gotta question 🙋🏾♂️ After doing this, is an air hose sufficient enough to clean the debris from the cylinder head before reattaching to engine block? Gonna be picking heads tonight and starting this process bright and early tomorrow morning.. thanks in advance 🫡
I know this is an older comment but to anyone looking for an answer to this... Yes, you want to get the head surface as close to a mirror finish as possible. So finish with 120 grit or higher.
@@KyleNotAKyle I got there in the end and actually finished off with 400 grit in a random pattern. Car has been fixed, back on the road now and running well.
@ saneauto This is exactly the video I was looking for new subscriber. I’m doing the cylinder heads off my 2002 5.3 LS for my 1988 MCSS and they use MLS head gaskets and the surface needs to be near mirrored, what grit sand paper do you recommend? My cylinder heads are not in bad shape at all basically just needs a light touch up like you did in the video except smooth and almost mirrored
I've seen this before, but having another confirmation video never hurts. Just thinking, would dusting the head with chalk help with seeing the low spots, like spray painters do.
*Victor what grit of sand paper are you using? I don't remember hearing you say?* Forest material is good Percy on The motor rebuild Most definitely thank you for sharing bro
So how square is the head thickness from end too end, side to side. And how to straighten cam tunnel that follows the head length. I know , but others won't
Howdie. Im fixn to attempt to sand a block deck while its in the car. Im gonna plug up the oil holes with paper towels. Should i be paranoid about getting grit in the oil gallies? Or do you think the filter will catch amy leftover grit i dont clean?
OLÁ. Sua "Régua de Precisão" é vista com muita frequência na Internet. De precisão nada tem e a forma de utiliza-la também é PARCIALMENTE errada. O aplainar com lixa é função de "artistas" e não de "mecânicos". ABRAÇOS... Roberto Udo Krapf
This engine made it to almost 400K miles before it developed a rod knock. I did a tear down video showing the damage and a engine replace/install video. The head and gasket were still fine when I tore the engine down.
American measurement system is not even worth to wipe the butt of metric system, considering how sophisticated the metric system is compared to standard nonsense
what happend?? i am about to follow the video of 80 grit... is it too much for sanding?? should i go for 100 grit??? please, let me know. I will break down the engine this weekend.
@@maxprintscreen4972 I had to take away quite alot bc my heads had been corroded from old headgaskets. I had a completely straight surface & concentrated as hard as I could to only move the heads forwards & backwards. Still they got warped.
