I can't believe how well you describe the process and only have this many views. Maybe it's the accent but I'm American and I understand you perfectly.
One tip. After your first scratch cut loosen the rotor and rotate it 180 degrees. Do another scratch cut and if it's in the same spot as the original scratch cut you know your mounting is good. If it moved there's something wrong with your mounting.
@@ToyotaMaintenance It is really great video. My simple questions, how much does it cost to do such service? Getting new aftermarket brake rotors for about $25 a peace may be very tempting, especially with 2 years warranty from Autozone or local stores. But if I can keep my original Toyota rotors, I prefer that way.
Not always guaranteed to work some rotors burn unevenly then other or you have the chance of taking off to much surface more than the others best to not be cheap an buy new ones that will last much longer learned from experience!!
please answer my cuestion what brand of used machine you recommend me? you will help a lot of people with this answer thanks in advance (i can't afford a new one)
really depends cost of replacement of a new rotors. For a F150 truck rotor is around 100 dollars so it makes sense to turn it (if it has enough thickness). However if your car is a ford focus, I think the new rotor is around 30-40 dollars, so it really doesn't make sense to turn it.
Great job, but it looks incredibly labor-intensive and requires a high level of precision. I just had my rotors resurfaced and the result is my vehicle vibrates slightly when applying the brakes. I don't believe the dealership I took it to is nearly as detail oriented as you!
@@dannytrinh07 You are right Danny. The problem is that there was no vibration (aka "pulsating") before I took the car in for brake pad replacement and rotor resurface, but severe pulsating directly after the service when braking moderately from above 45 mph. Update: Took the car back in, armed with information, and requested they measure the runout (deviation in rotor thickness). They said there was quite a bit and resurfaced for free. They never admitted fault, but I think they screwed up on the lathe that cuts the rotor. I would love to hear from an experienced mechanic what could have gone wrong. Could it be a rookie tech who didn't set up the lathe correctly? Could it be the blades were not sharp enough? What are the possible operation errors?
@@espedale Normally, whenever I need pads for my car, I just replace the pads without the resurfacing. However, I would hand sand the rotors before installing new pads with 100-150 grit to remove the old pad's material so the pads can grab on better. I never resurface rotors unless it have vibration or deep groves from old pads. It's a waste to surface a good (non-problem) rotor. wasting money to resurface (free in your case) and get rotors thinner are definitely not what we're after. In your case: I would have those rotors out and have their run out read on both side (inside and outside) to see its warp-ness. Do your calculation with those thickness removal to see if they're still in tolerance thickness (look up your rotors spec to find it out!). First, they could have wrongly measured your rotors' thickness. Secondly, the tech could have removed more material than they should have done. It's hard (almost impossible) to have the dealer pays for their tech's mistakes unless you have document to show rotors thickness before and after cut. Till this point, I would (or at least try to) be nice talk it out with head manager on 50-50 recovery. Normally, they are cool with it. Remind them of your loyalty to dealer and give a hint that would be your last time to be at that dealership if thing is not working out. Good luck!
@@dannytrinh07 I do the same thing. Once I got some good rotors - made in Australia (NOT China! They do not control the quality of their iron smelting) that didn't warp, I just replaced pads when they wore down.
