By far the best video out there. I’m so impressed that I’m sending my shop teacher for him to show people who aren’t understanding him. Very impressed.
I just needed to see the basic machine operation, hope I can recall it when the time is right. Thanks for the info. Have seen guys in my shop do it but just wasn't understanding it till your detailed instruction.
Thank you that was very informative, all my 32 years of being a mechanic I only resurfaced one big drum. I learned how too in trade tech school but the shops I worked at never bothered with that. Now that I'm retired and going to open up my own tire shop I would like to offer that service as part of a break job. I did resurface a brake drum, from a caterpillar scraper because it was metal to metal and too expensive to replace, on a horizontal boring machine.
gene coppedge , That's when the Light came on for me in College Automotive Brake class also. I too plan on operating a Shop also......Don't use a Micrometer on brakes where you presently work , don't think it's critical to take measurements, have no intention of ever using a Mike, don't stop here.
I am a professional brake lathe technician... this dummy is using the wrong centering cone with the wrong cup. If you look at what is hanging on the rack in back of the lathe, you will see a complete Adaptek system--which is the best cup and cone system available. But this guy is using a piece of junk aluminum cup at the primary inside cup with the Adaptek centering cone. Should have used the smaller/thicker steel Adaptek cup as the inside cone. Aluminum cups are notoriously inaccurate. If he would use the Adaptek system correctly there would be zero 'run out.' Secondly he describes a "rubber isolation spacer" --which is not a vibration isolation device at all. What it actually is, is a slip-ring device which keeps the arbor (main shaft) straight when the arbor nut is tightened. The spacer devices are not exactly straight end-to-end and when tightened the arbor will bend upon being tightened. Actually what he has is called a 'rubber spacer' and this is put on the end of the arbor adjacent to the arbor nut. Also the 'vibration strap' he describes is not a 'vibration strap' --it is a lead-weighted 'rubber silencer.' You have to have some sort of damping device around the rotor to absorb vibration and prevent cutting bit chatter. Also--it's called a 'twin cutter' not a 'facing tool.' Finally--do not rough up the rotor as he shows in the end with a angle sander and a rough pad. Do this operation while the rotor is still on the lathe and using at the most a 100 grit piece of emery cloth hand held. The only thing completely correct shown in the video is him washing down the rotor in a pail of water using soap.
alex hidell 😂😂😂😭 I lost it at “professional brake lathe whatever” what the fuck is that? You cut rotors at orileys or autozone? Lol! It’s not rocket science! I disagree on both you and the guy in videos method of roughing up the rotor. His looks ugly way uneven and your way can cost you a hand. I use a Roloc disk and lightly go up and down while spinning on Both sides.
I noticed he started with 955/1000 and said he took off 10/1000, then measure 940/1000. Im like you took off 50% more than you wanted to, thats not very good.
yep that was crap ,all the right tools available and uses all the wrong tools 2th notche on the 6950 tool ha ha ( he has know idea ) just took off a third of the life of the rotor and cut 10th runout in that rotor and as soon as it gets hot it will return to his shop to get reworked and he will blame the customer ...cheap chinese rotor ...puddle of water or car wash and its his poor practice which caused the problem , the best so far i have done on a rotor was .14mm or .07 mm per side about 3th per side using the same machine and tooling as he has ,i also have a 4100 that cuts just as well ...its not the machine but the operator , i have watched a lot of youtube videos and still have not seen a operator that has impressed me
No scratch cuts to check for lateral runout or mounting on the arbor? "Roughing up" the rotor after machining? Do you mean breaking the directional finish cut into the surface by the cutting bits to prevent pad walk and brake squeal? FYI from AMMCO: Note: Either rough or finish cuts may be taken to resurface a rotor. Generally, finish cuts should be 0.004” to 0.006” per side. Very shallow cuts of less than 0.004” per side tend to reduce tool bit life because the heat generated during reconditioning isn’t transferred to the rotor efficiently. Rough cuts may be taken from 0.006” to 0.010” per side.
This was really great "How to". However, at the end when washing off the rotor - wouldn't it be more prudent to just clean off the disc with brake cleaner versus water?
Machining slightly magnetizes the rotor surface, the tiny steel dust will cling to the surface and can occasionally cause brake squeal. Brake cleaner will not remove all this dust from the grooves made while machining. Soap and water will lift the dust and allow it to be rinsed away.
Same machine we have at work! I’m hoping I can save some money and not have to do any brake work, I only have about 3 and a half weeks to get my car registered for insurance reasons and money is a bit of an issue as well.
Why not check the run out with a finger test indicator? How can you be sure the wave is removed entirely? I know you have experience but should a run out indication be carried out?
Great video!! What do you do if one side of the rotor is thinner? Cooling & over heating will be compromised right. How would you take overall measurement?
Tell us you've never worked in a machine shop without actually telling us you've never worked in a machine. Did you ignore everything he said prior to operating the lathe? Those instructions were not suggestions!
New rotors have a 2 thou runout, a lathe can get it to 0.5..... They aren't technically warped, they have uneven levels of brake pad material buildup from hard / high heat stops
So half way to establish “zero” point, then back into the hat and adjust 2 thousandth then run a fast cut, then adjust 1-3 thousandth ish each cutter for for the slow cut
Hi, thank you for the video. I have a question question (I know this is an old video I apologize). It looked like you were facing-off both sides. Why do they call it "turning" when you are actually facing off? I have always wondered this. Thank you!
“Turning” is simply a term used to describe the lathing process. Usually it’s used in reference to removing material from the outer diameter of a workpiece, but can also be used in reference to general lathe-work.
Too many people have been brainwashed into believing rotors need to be thrown away every brake job! Rotors are manufactured with extra material on them for a reason, that reason is so they can be turned when replacing pads.
