We created a Ready Seal Color Guide video to give you a better idea of what the most popular colors will look like on different applications. You can see that here! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-V8PxUD9DUyY.html
I applied today in 105....I forgot the safety glasses, and got a nice blast in the eyes spraying the underside of a runner! 😭 Awesome product! Use Natural Cedar...it's the only color ya'll need to produce! My fence (replacement) is only a few months old and its a sweet color!
Tried two garden sprayers today from Home Depot, neither would spray out like that no matter how many times I tried to adjust it. I cleaned them with paint thinner and those sprayed in a nice mist. I think RS needs to be thinned out to spray like that.
Hello ready seal im looking to use your project on my diy siding im putting up on my house in the next wk or 2 depending on this crazy houston weather will post a video of the before and after
I'd like to keep the rustic look and this looks like stain, what can I spray with to protect the wood from rot and not change the appearance of the wood.
We had to replace 3/4 of our old fence due to wind damage. We have cleaned and pressure washed the old section of the fence, but now I'm worried about staining/sealing the new wood and the old wood to make them look uniform. Any suggestions?
It typically takes a couple of days or however long it takes for a full cure a penetration time. This stain has really high penetration so alot of it is getting absorbed into the wood. I've used several stains on the market and this one is by far my favorite.
I think it's a case/project by project basis. Type of wood, humidity and precipitation, sunlight level on the project. Use of a moisture meter is probably the best way. But I'm thinking this video is an attempt to simplify and sell a particular product, which ends up cutting corners and oversimplifying.
Hi Lisa, I need you! I have five 5 gallon jugs and don't know how to continue. I emailed Ready Seal but got no response. I have a huge 8 year old shadow box cedar and pine fence. I power washed 5 sections (there are 34) because it was covered with green and black gunk. Then after drying I applied Ready Seal. It looks great. But the power washer raised the grain of the wood so it looks fuzzy in some sections. The fence is SO large, I do not have the time to power wash the whole thing as I did before. So..... I applied Olympic Deck Cleaner on a few sections. It bleached the cedar out very white, and when rinsing off a layer of white material seems to be sluffing off. So then I started power washing that layer of white stuff off. Now it looks worse. My burning question is: Did the bleach just turn the gunk white and now I have to remove the layer of white gunk? Or....Can I apply Ready Seal right over the top of the sections I bleached. I am concerned that the sealer will just seal in the bleached out debris. Please advise. Thank you!
This was not a very good video to follow as a home owner. Your beat bet would be to hire a local guy to wash yours fence. Sounds like you have 288ft of fence and that shouldn't cost more then 300 bucks to wash and brighten. They will use the correct chemicals and right pressure and shouldt take more then 2 hours. Bleach is another a good cleaner on wood. It has its place but only limited situations. Bleach is mixed incorrectly will prematurely rott the wood faster then just leaving alone and it will break down the cellulose od the wood that provides structure. To fix what you messed up with the raised grain you need to get some sanding blocks and knock them down before you seal them.
I if you don't want to use those harsh chemicals just use a power washer with an oscillating tip without in the high-pressure you won't need any bleach or soap
How long with this last after you're done? I live in Chicago the get 3 rough seasons, very cold winters, very wet and raw springs and some hot summer days. This takes a strong toll on exposed outdoor wood. Is there an year end up keep like spraying on a Thompson's Water Seal , no stain at the end of the year.
Is it ok to get bleach on a composite deck? I have a cedar privacy wall on my deck and I worry about the stain or cleaning being bad for the composite.
Ready seal is 125sf per gallons and you need to apply heavy and if it was your first time you will need to apply again next year and then 2 years after that with a light cleaning.
Are you Mr .Nice Guy's wife. ...What about if you do the same project of course skip the cleaning part 😊 to a new fence to look better or rather last longer. Thanks Ma'am!
Bleach solution needed to be stronger. It will come out looking almost brand new. I use pool bleach. Its cheaper and much stronger. I use 1/3 mixture with pool bleach. On that job half and half was needed with household bleach
im sure the neighbor isnt happy about their grass and rose bushes dying from that bleach..... also the neighbors side will look funny but i guess they can wash their side too
Pressure washing can push harmful mold, algae, and moss spores deeper into the wood which adds to the problem at hand. It is better to clean it first and this is one way to do that.
I watched a friend use a pressure washer; it turned the wood a nice color, but also took off the top layer of wood and left divots, grooves, and wrinkles in the fence boards.
I disagree; i’ve also did the bleach thing and it’s cheap and VERY effective. Kills all mold on contact. U don’t need expensive store bought cleaners. Make your own for cheap!
Actually her methodology and formulation for removing topical contaminants was spot on and feasible for homeowners & professionals. Nonetheless, pressure washing should've followed and whatever you do don't use a 0 or 15 degree tip!
@@HotshotDan I have found that using Moldex house wash on it the day before is fine. The diesel / used motor oil looks better than stain and lasts a lot longer. Plus it keeps mold and mildew off if there is a north side to the fence. I just got tired of paying big $ for sealer that is gone in a year. Throw in some used trans fluid for a nice reddish tint. The diesel sucks it into the wood and it is clean and dry to the touch in under an hour.
@@csinalabama You're not wrong on this. I tried something similar last season and was surprised at how well it worked. I'm going to try adding pine tar that that mix and or Penetrol (oil based). Good stuff
@@kevd5888 it's pretty amazing how fast the wood sucks it in. In 15 minutes its dry to your hand. I have been doing two coats. It has an odor for about a week, which is about how long you have an odor from any stain or sealer
It's my understanding that with wood of this age and oxidation level, simply bleaching ("softwashing") only whitens the upper layer of dead wood fibers making it LOOK better, but isn't physically better because those wood fibers aren't removed, the wood hasn't been restored to a good surface for applying stain or any coating, which would cause it to prematurely fail. Any commentors have any input to this?
@@joeydelrio I'm nobody and not in this business so take my thoughts and understanding on this w a grain of salt, but I've been researching this a little in preparation for doing my own cedar fence as opposed to trying to figure out how to make $, so I want to find the absolute best procedure for my investment. I'm thinking first thing is to powerwash the wood to remove the old dead and loose fibers and some staining from mold/ mildew using a 3000psi max washer w 40° tip then switching to 20° for worst part of it (I've done this on part of a 6yr old unstained panel already and the difference after just doing that is amazing, but had to research and buy a power washer first. Lol.) Give it a day to dry to see what's left (moisture level doesn't matter too much at this step) Then soft wash using something like a mix of sodium hydrochloride + sodium hydroxide to kill the biological material (mold, mildew, it's food, and algea). Let that dwell for 5 to 10 minutes, but do not let it dry during the dwell...that's why she used dawn w the bleach, to keep it from drying, which will definitely cause you problems. (Still researching products and percentages for the mix.) Rinse, rinse, and rinse some more. Then use oxalic acid to neutralize the pH, letting that dwell for 5 to 10 minutes, but not dry on it. Rinse, rinse and rinse some more. Then let dry to the proper moisture level for product being applied. Apply product as per manufacturer's instructions. Am personally heavily leaning towards using readyseal brand stain/sealer, and applying it using an airless sprayer.
@@mynamedoesnotmatter737 Hi, it sounds like you have some experience with this. I'm also thinking about restoring my 5-year-old wooden fence, and your information is very useful. Thank you. Let me ask you a question: if I only paint on my side of the fence, and the neighbor does not paint his side, what are the consequences? Is the fence protected at all? Before we did this new fence 5 years ago, it was all rotten and eaten by termites. So if I only do my side, does it help at all, to keep it pests free? Or would I be wasting my time?
@@bettyfranca8615 let me begin my reply by saying that I'm not in this business nor do I have any previous experience with restoring a wooden fence, so I couldn't say as I could provide you with the best answer, but I would say doing your side only would only preserve/protect the surface area on your side. While it would probably slow the total deterioration of the fence, not doing anything to the opposite side won't let it last as long. If you're planning on using actual paint as opposed to an outdoor rated wood sealer/stain combo product, the lack of anything on the opposite side would most likely cause your paint to fail faster...I wouldn't paint it unless doing the entire fence, and as personal preference I wouldn't use paint. Also, results depend upon wood type, prep done, and application of product based upon manufacturer's instructions. Hope that helps.
dawn is used to break the surface tension if the wood so the bleach will work better. Same as if you make your own yard weed killer, you add dawn to let the weeds absorb the mix.
This is awful advice. Bleaching will just change the coloration on the top level of wood and kill any mold or other growth. Then if you stain/seal the wood, you could be sealing rot in. Hit it with a gentle pressure wash, sand it down to good wood, and paint/seal it. Short cuts do you no favors in the long term.
Its biodegradable when it breaks down you pretty much just have sodium. Sodium hypochlorite is what it is bleach is just a house hold name.guest what they use it in most tap water and it keep you from getting sick due to pathogens and bacteria. To much of about anything is pollution.it was 75% H2O from the start then it was rinsed off with more water.that amount of sh is not even enough to hurt a plant.we drink it every day and soak it up though our skin every time we swim in pool or take a shower/bath. A car made more pollution then that and we drive every day.hell you make more pollution then that every time you fart.
