Thank you mate for sharing all of this knowledge with home roasters all along the world. Your videos are very dense for theire is somany experience of yours in it. Keep on roasting. Best greetings from Germany
Again, exactly! I have a worksheet similar to yours that, through experience, list "average" temperatures at one-minute time stamps to get me to the events and % that I want. If these change based on coffee type or process, I adjust slightly to accommodate the next time I roast it. It usually only takes the second roast to get the times and temps I'm going for. And sometimes, much like your roast, the first roast, though slightly "off-schefule" turns out better than expected, and no further tweaking is necessary.
Another fine video Mike. I really liked your response to your own question on how you knew what temperatures and rates of rise you wanted, when you said, “Quite honestly? Experience.” So true! Experience guided by knowledge of fundamentals is the key I believe. When I first roast a coffee new to me, I try to use fundamentals of bean origin and processing method to help me literally guess at Dry End (DE) and First Crack (FC) temperatures. But after roasting that coffee a few times, I then clearly and accurately know DE and FC. Knowing DE and FC, I then determine an average rate of rise (ROR) for my middle phase (Maillard or browning phase). The Bullet shows the current ROR and I use that to control heat and fan a bit to get the average ROR I want. Then knowing how much Development I want, I calculate an average ROR for the final Development phase and control heat and fan to achieve that. But for me, learning from my goofs has given me more knowledge experience than seeing things go right. Maybe you too?
Thanks for sharing your experience Lou. In my next video, I hope to literally show the process of gaining experience, in less than 30 minutes! haha. Seriously though, experience + fundamentals=great coffee. Thanks for making that point. Yes, I have learned a ton from my mistakes and I chalk that up to another experience to help me improve my roast. We will get to rate of rise in another video but you are spot on. Great comments as always. Thank you.
Mike, you are quite the educator. You are creating a master class in home roasting. I’ve done 3 90g batches in the Popper now and I’m learning that getting control over timing is quite the challenge. I’m *attempting* to model the profile you’re using because it seems similar to what I prefer but achieving it is easier said than done. One phase goes much slower or faster than I hoped and I roll with it as best I can. I’m doing my best to keep track of temperature at 30 second intervals. I keep forgetting things like hitting the timer at first crack, that kind of thing, so every time mistakes get made. I’m also going through a weird phase where nothing tastes right. I think when I started off with the popcorn popper that I was so impressed with the improvement over store bought, I went through a honeymoon phase. Now suddenly nothing tastes right, I can’t taste anything. I may need to have some stale store bought to reset and appreciate what I’ve got! 😅 I’m sure I’ll get over it. I’m enjoying the learning process in spite of the frustration. I also learn a lot from people’s comments. I do still have a hard time identifying dry end and first crack. The chamber wasn’t as deep on the popcorn popper and it was easier to see the color. The popper is deeper and even with a bright flashlight it’s hard to see the color very well. I’m going to see if I can find a better light. I also am unsure about when I’m hitting first crack. With the air popcorn popper there was LOTS of popping. With the Popper I hear some cracking but it’s not nearly so robust. With both I feel unsure of myself. However, if the temperatures you give can be used as a bit of a guide that may help. I’ll keep plugging away. This video was perfectly timed for me. Thanks so much.
With the popper you really don't have temperature's to follow like in my example with the Hive. The bean probe is giving accurate temperatures. For the popper you have to manage your heat so you make the target event times. So, a 4 minute dry event, first crack at 7:30 and then drop the coffee at 9 minutes. That was my original plan. To hit dry at 4 minutes you will want to set your popper around the 12:30 mark if you use the dial like a clock face. Then around 1 minute set the heat to 1:00. Watch the color of the beans. and you will notice them getting lighter in color then the yellowing begins. Around the 3 minute mark, peek inside by lifting the cover briefly. Check back every 15 seconds or if you are close to yellow, as needed. you will adjust your heat settings to make that dry event at 4 minutes. If it happens earlier that is ok. 3:30 is ok for an air popper. OK, stop for a second. Let's talk about this. Let's say that the instructions I just shared caused your beans to turn yellow at 5 minutes. That is ok, but remember, the next time you do this you will want to use a higher heat setting. I'm going to demonstrate this in my next video when I talk about learning how our roaster performs and it's capabilities. Heat management is really important. I use the popper video as my example for that. Maybe go back and check that out again so you can see my settings and try and figure it out. Are you not able to see the color change? Look at the color of the beans when you put them in the roaster. They are kind of olive green colored. Are you able to see the difference between that color and yellow? I'm just asking if it is a vision problem or just experience. It takes practice knowing when the beans change color. Lighting is important. consider a led flashlight OR a work-light that you wear on your head. That will really help.
No vision problem, it’s a lighting problem. The light I’m using is giving me a peculiar quality of color that was not a problem with a more shallow chamber. Next time I will pay better attention to the dial setting. I’m measuring the temperature of a meat thermometer probe which I realize is not going to accurately reflect the bean temperature but it’s another piece of data. So much to pay attention to! Right now I’m remembering what it was like to learn how to drive or to dance. It seemed like there were so many things to think about, it was impossible to pay attention to them all! It got easier with experience and I’m confident this will, too. At least the struggle with tasting is getting better. I decided to quit worrying about it and just drink the damn coffee! It worked. Today I tasted all three batches side by side and one of them tasted like olive oil to me. That was pretty weird. I can taste differences (same bean, different batches) but can’t identify very well what they are outside of levels of sour and bitter. I’ve also come to realize that really,I like coffee with cream and sugar, that’s when it tastes really good to me, but I’m using less sugar and cream because my home roast is not bitter. Your willingness to help us struggling home roasters is deeply appreciated. Thank you!
Great Video Mike! Looking forward to your next video when you use a new roaster for the first time. I have a couple years experience now with my heat gun homemade roaster but still a lot to learn on how to get the roast I want. Seems my dry time is usually right around 5 minutes for and 8oz batch, sometimes a little over or under depending on the bean. Based on this I usually target about a 10-11 minute roast so my dry time will be 50% or a little less. Then I shoot for 30% browning and around 20% development. The trick seems to be browning and development heat settings. Yesterday I ran two batches of a Tanzania peaberry with exactly the same phase percentages and drop time but changed the temperature quite a bit during 2nd and 3rd phase. First one ended up light to medium with 12.5% loss and the 2nd is medium approaching dark with 14.5% loss. Will be interesting to compare the two cups after they rest a bit
Nice job Tony. Sounds like you have good control over your roaster. I had a big challenge a couple of weeks ago to roast a peaberry to get that light to medium roast. The beans are so small that the heat really needs to be carefully managed. The result was wonderful because my drop temperature was probably 5 degrees lower than a larger bean. Pretty interesting and something i will keep in mind the next time i roast a peaberry. Thanks for watching, sharing and for being a subscriber!
Thanks Mike! I watched your old videos on peaberry roasting. I am struggling with it on first crack and trying to roast based on color and smell. They just don't seem to do a clear rolling pop. I am going to have to dig deeper. The first batch was solid medium so we will see how batch 2 and 3 turn out. I think my biggest challenge roasting is trying to get the tasting notes I read about when I buy the beans! Hopefully after I brew the latest 2 batches I will have a better understanding on what the flavors are doing so I can then roast the remaining 38 pounds later this year for holiday gifts! I think most of my family is just doing automatic drip coffee or at most a french press. I am doing a basic V60 drip brew so I can get an idea what they may end up with in the cup. @@VirtualCoffeeLab
Hi Mike for the V60 I am using the Pietro hand grinder with the probrew burrs setting at 5.4 seems good. That's just about the middle range or slightly finer of what they recommend for pour over. They seem to be pretty fine to touch. I am sorry I don't have a good reference point. If it helps I am using my Decent with the pour over basket but it is basically doing 4x110g of 96c water over 25g of grinds. The first pour has a 45 second bloom time before the 2nd pour. Total pour time is 3 minutes followed by slightly over 2 minutes of draw down. Final cup weight is about 375g of coffee.
another great video. thank you! I did some reading just yesterday about roasting and it finally occurred to me why you extend the dry phase for as long as you do (up to 4 minutes). Turns out that Maillard reactions begin at temps as low as 284F. So by extending the dry phase you're extending the time for those Maillard reactions that occur at lower temps (284 to 329) to continue for a longer time than if you were to do a 1 or 2 minutes dry phase. So I'm now using a longer dry phase by starting the SR 540 with heat at 1, fan at 9, and gradually increasing the heat setting over a several minute period. i also discovered that First Crack can start at 385 (although in my roaster it's usually in the 400 - 410 range.
Hi Pima, I would like to talk more about Maillard after I first address temperatures. You can't compare what someone else says about temperatures to your setup. I'm not sure who told you the reactions begin at 284 but even if that was true, our temp probes are in different places, using different batch sizes, using different density coffee beans..... it isn't exact and it doesn't directly apply to your roaster or mine. At least that is my opinion and understanding. You are using a fresh roast SR540 and someone else may have a different roaster. Also, you are not measuring a true bean temp with the FR. You are using the inlet temp. If you rely on the SR540 temp display, this is reading the air temp just before it hits the beans. That is not a bean temp. If you are inserting a probe into the bean mass, you still aren't getting a true bean temp because of the hot air temps mixed in the air. On a drum, the beans are usually touching the probe constantly with very little air hitting the probe (unless you have a small batch). Then there is the whole "probe placement". Where you put the probe in the roasting environment will change the temp. My drum roaster coffee hits first crack anywhere from 370 degrees to 392 depending on my coffee, how aggressive i am with the heat BUT MOST IMPORTANTLY the batch size. When I roast a smaller batch size my temps are all different. This is partly due to the beans not hitting the probe as much as a larger load. The best way for you to determine when Maillard reactions begin is by using your senses. Smell and sight will tell you when the beans begin to hit this mark. That has been my mantra all along. When do you call dry end? I call it when the green is gone. You might call it when it is mostly yellow. That is okay as long as you are consistent when you call yellow. That will be the beginning of Maillard for you. As far as how long the Maillard lasts, this is personal preference AND the type of roaster you are using. Your maillard probably can be shorter than a drum roaster maillard because you are using 100% convection heat and it can heat evenly quickly. However, the length of Maillard does influence flavors. You should experiment with two different roasts that have a maillard that is 1 minute longer than the other. So, try 2.75 min versus 3.75 minutes, leaving dry and development the same. That is really what your message is about so I would love for you to give that a try and then tell me what you experienced. What do you think? As always, thanks for sharing, watching, and being a subscriber. I hope my comments are helpful. Share your thoughts. - Mike
@@VirtualCoffeeLab thanks for the reply! I'll address more of what you wrote later today or tomorrow, but here's a quick response to the question about temp and Maillard. The temps they were referring to are the bean temp, not the roaster temp. I know that different machines register different temps at the same point in the roast. But my thinking is that if the SR 540 temp is accurate (and I believe it's very close, I'll explain why later), then it's giving me a temp reading of the hot air that is being blown against the beans. So in theory Maillard should begin a little after the roaster registers 284. Note that this article stated that Maillard begins at a range of 284 to 329. I'll try posting a link, but that doesn't always work in youtube. The point I was trying to make is that Maillard doesn't start at Dry End. It starts well before Dry End.
looks like they deleted my comment that had a link to the site that gave temps. There are at least 2 sites I've found that state 284 can be the beginning of Maillard. Caramelization takes place at higher temps, beginning at 338
@VirtualCoffeeLab I just posted a comment that had links in it, written in a way that I thought youtube wouldn't recognize them as links (in other words, you would have to put in certain characters), but they still deleted the comment! Bottom line on all this is when I saw that a temp of 284 is the temp when Maillard begins, the light went on in my head as to why you would want a longer Dry Phase (longer than a minute or two). I had been thinking that if the Dry Phase is just getting rid of the moisture why would it matter whether it was 2 minutes or 4 minutes? Well it turns out that there's other stuff going on during the Dry Phase than just getting rid of moisture, namely Maillard reactions, and those reactions are going to affect the flavor profile of the coffee. So it now makes sense to me that you'd want to extend that phase and not rush thru it in only a couple of minutes. Cheers!
"Hey Mike, I watched this helpful video three times before attempting to roast Vietnamese green beans. Here's my process: 1. Charging temp was 390°F, but it dropped to 210°F after adding the beans. 2. First crack occurred at 8 minutes 30 seconds with a temperature of 340°F. 3. I dropped the beans at 10 minutes 30 seconds. 4. Weight loss was 10.5%. However, I prefer a medium-dark or dark roast, so I'm unsure how to achieve that. I've heard that weight loss should be higher than 15%. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks again, Mike!"
Hello M Shah, thanks for watching. There are a few important things to think about. You are roasting a different coffee. It is a Robusta? I've never roasted that type before. Basically you will use the same concepts as what you did except you will want to aim for a higher drop temperature. That means you will need a little more energy/heat applied throughout the entire roast. So, watching my video at 2:20 I begin to talk about my roasting plan, times and temperatures. You already know how dark your coffee got using my profile AND you know the ending temperature (which you didn't share). Thats ok. With this information, you should be able to modify the development part of your roast. The temperature at first crack will be about the same. Your ending temperature will be about 10-12 degrees higher. That means you will need to keep applying the heat, allowing your roast to continue. It might take you an extra minute to get to the roast level you want. It will be trial and error to find the darkness and temperature you like. Yes, Weight loss will be closer to 15-16% Let me know how it goes.
"Hi Mike, you were right that green beans coffee is Robusta. Your videos inspired me to start home roasting, so I'm want to follow your advice with the Hive Roaster even I'd like to buy the same green beans you use. You mentioned Costa Rican natural process beans in one of your videos. Could you help me find those or recommend another type? I found one option on Sweet Maria's called Costa Rica dry process Santa Cruz." Thanks again Mike
Thanks for the reply. So I've done a little research into roasting robusta beans. As I ave mentioned, I have never roasted that type of coffee before. I would suggest you read this article. It has some helpful information. perfectdailygrind.com/2021/08/a-guide-to-roasting-robusta-coffee/. I think my advice in the video will still be helpful but there will be different requirements for heat based on what I read in the article. Yes, the costa rica dry process is the same thing as Costa Rica Natural.
I have a Hive roaster on the way and have been studying your videos to prepare to give it a go. Very much appreciate all this content. I wasn't able to order it with the digital thermometer so I'm hoping shooting a laser thermometer into the hole periodically will give me at least a decent enough amount of information to work with.
Hey Cory, congrats on the Hive. Don't get too distracted with the laser thermometer. Try and focus on your senses. Try this for your first roast to see how your heat affects your times to each event. Be sure to make notes of your heat setting OR height. Also your event times. Now, try this roast: Using medium/low heat, do the pre-heat and use the gun for temp. Then, apply medium heat during dry phase and keep good bean movement. Dry should take between 4-6 minutes. You can smell some sweetness at that point. Try to use an LED light quickly to check for color. Then after dry, wait about 1 minute and then begin to raise the hive a little higher (maybe 3-4 inches) and maintain that until you hear first crack. Once you have a rolling first crack then raise the hive another inch or two making sure you have enough heat to keep crack going. After about one and a half minutes after first crack begins keep smelling, watch for smoke and decide when to drop the beans. Now, after all of that you should look at the beans and their color. save some for future reference. Let the coffee rest a couple of days (2-3) minimum and then taste the coffee. After you taste the coffee should probably have a sense if it is too dark, too acidic, too dull, etc.. The next step will be to alter your approach to improve. You will do this be managing your heat over time. Let me know how it goes!
Informative video thanks. I want to order Hive after watching this video. My question is what kind of green coffee beans are good to roast for Pour over? And where to get these ? Thanks again
@@mshah556 any single origin specialty coffee from sellers like the captains coffee, burman coffee, sweet marias, coffee bean coral and many others have these coffees. Take your time and enjoy looking over these sites. The details they offer with tasting notes should direct you to something that sounds good. Some sites even have recommended roast levels.
Hello Richard. Artisan will calculate the weight loss for you if you use the software. You would go to roast > properties, and then plug in your numbers for the result. or you could do this: Roasted weight / green weight = A number. That number X 100 -100 gives you the percentage weight loss.
Greetings Mike from London and thank you for sharing your knowledge I have been learning from your videos for the past year and please to say that Im constantly improving and revisit even the first videos. Mike can you share your tips on rate of raise fir us manual roasters and in Celcius through al the phases please? Thank you 🙏
Thanks for your question Mario. I would be glad to help BUT that number changes based on the roaster, your roasting profile, the beans and ultimately the total roast time. Maybe you could get more specific and I could do my best to respond. What roaster are you using? What type of coffee and roast level please?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Hi Mike I have a 1kg Toper Gas roaster been roasting mainly washed castillo Colombian coffee beans and roast to Medium roast/light within 11/12 minutes with charge temp at 210 Celcius. I have the exhaust closed during yellow stage then open the exhaust during browning and completely open during development
Hi Mike. Right now I just use a basic spreadsheet I made for recording data. I really like the roasting profile sheet you used in the video. Is there a web site where one can download a copy of the sheet? Thank you for all the videos! There is always something new to learn and apply!
Mike, this is awesome since I use the Hive Roaster. Thanks so much!! I couldn't tell, did you hear any of 2nd crack at all in this roast and is it your personal preference not to go into 2nd crack? Thanks so much! I'm learning a lot from your videos.
I don't roast to second crack Tom. @playnicegames is correct. I do enjoy coffee that is fully roasted but not darker or smokey. That is what usually happens to coffee when you roast it to that stage. Depending on the coffee I change my roasting approach. A coffee that is high altitude and dense usually has more sweetness. I like to roast these coffees towards the medium/light side of the roast. The roast fully reaches first crack but I really try hard to have my ending temperature be a little lower and the color a little lighter than say a lower density Sumatra coffee. Basically the coffees that have the chocolate, caramel, and earthy notes I tend to roast more of a solid medium roast. Still not second crack though.
Sorry Mike, Just 1 more ? for this video: You stated that you know the Hive well enough to know what it is going to do. It appears you were able to fill out your Profile sheet BEFORE the roast and then tried to hit the marks. Would your educated guess (for the profile sheet) for this roast change if you were roasting an entirely different bean/ In other words, you not only used your knowledge of the roaster but also the needs of the individual origin etc of the beans to get your wanted results for brewing/taste? Would this profile sheet in your opinion do a pretty good job with any bean as a starting point in the HIVE? Thanks for your passion and willingness to help others! You are awesome!
Tom, I absolutely made this profile for this specific bean and batch size. What coffee do you want to roast. The type of roaster also makes a difference.
Don’t worry Tom. You could basically use a few different profiles for all coffee. So, one profile for fruity coffee, one for a low density coffee like a Brazil or monsooned coffee and then one for the rest. They would be different total roast times and the event times would move around. The best thing you can do it to control your roaster/heat with the one profile you are using and then after some practice you will be ready to change it up 😃
Thank you for watching. No, I don’t need to. I generally roast medium to lighter roasts and never hit first crack. So, no oils, no char. No need to wash/clean.
Yea, it can be a little tiring but the results are truly impressive. I have roasted on the Gene Cafe about 10 times and have two videos I made during that time. ru-vid.com/group/PLe757VIiQrPZXFZIubFh_0SGej0vPn3q8 I did not use a temperature probe for this roaster. I think it is a good home coffee roasting device but because of its design with the rotating drum on an angle, getting temperature readings that would be useful would be difficult. If I did, I would try and place one at the heat source and the other right where the chamber/drum air comes into the chaff collector.
Hi Mike thanks again for the video, as i told you i got Costa Rica natural processed green beans to roast whit Hive roaster, and this is the result: 150 grams beans, Total time 10 minutes, charge temp. 380 , Turning point 1 min and 15 seconds, at 200f, Dry t, 5 min at 320f, Brown t. 3min & 15s. At 380f, Dev t. 2min at 400. Drop at 400 at 10 min & 15s. Weight loss: 13.35 %. I have 2 questions: 1- what do you think about this? 2- I want weight loss between 14 to 14.5% what should I do ? ( about temp., time and ….). Thanks again Mike.
@mshah556, how did the coffee taste? Ultimately, higher weight loss would require a higher drop temperature. To hit 14-14.5 you will probably be at 410-415f. Based on the higher temperature you want, I would extend your browning phase by about 30 seconds and once you reach 1st crack, you will need to apply a little more heat than you were with the previous roast to keep your roast moving along and reach this higher temperature. So, your total roast time will be more like 10.5 minutes or even 11 minutes.
Mike, i haven’t brew that yet because of the guideline that you said i am going to wait for 4 days rest. After brew and taste i will let you know. By the way, thanks for the information.
@mshah556, the sour could be the fine grind size. Under developed coffee can also cause this BUT 13.5% is not under developed. So, I would aim for the grind size, must likely not enough extraction so grind maybe a little finer? Not positive. You will need to test (trial & error). You might also want to increase your water temperature by 4 or 5 degrees as well.
Hi Mike, great video, thank you. Is there any other roaster you can think of that has a thermometer probe directly in the bean chamber like the Hive? Hive still doesn't offer the version you have. I think it is important to understand bean temperature as opposed to the ambient temperature in the chamber. I have a Behmor and temps are all over the place and hard to understand and so to improve control one of the primary buying criteria I have is how to best understand bean temperature specifically. Based on your experience is Hive the best way to do it? I am playing with an idea of modding my poppery with a thermometer and just don't know how to do it yet. It doesn't escape me that I can manipulate timing with the hive and I don't know that I can do that with a popper that doesn't have controls (unless I get a watt meter and variable controller).
The Hive with the thermocouple go in and out of stock. You can buy the probes, phidget separately and then use them for any roasting device. The setup you saw me use for the Fresh Roast is the same stuff I used on the Behmor. Yes, I put those probes in the Behmor. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jm5MsA8poJs.html You could take the probes and use them with the popper too...... I can't think of any other roaster that is budget friendly that would offer thermocouples ready to go. Sorry about that.
Todd, Phidget temperature sensor is the brain that sits between the probes and the software. It is what interprets the information taken from the probe (the temperature of the heat) and then passes it to the software (artisan). See this video and specific spot which shows the phidget and probes. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-J3GEK9ydJr4.htmlsi=8oPK5025x6RJ0a9y&t=143 Oh, I forgot to mention there are links where to buy the probes and phidget in that video in the description.
I have not. They are on the expensive side but I can see how this would really help someone know what their roast level is. Color is king, but moisture loss and temperature sure help give me more information. Do you have one of these? How are you using it? Share some of what you have learned from something like the Difluid Omni. Thanks for watching, your comments, and for being a subscriber!
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I don't have one of these devices, but they don't just look at color, they are also looking at density and other factors also giving you a distribution of the roast level of the beans in your sample. They also use Near Infrared light to look into the structure of the bean, I think looking at the uniformity of the density. They certainly are not cheap ranging from around $900 to $15000.
Gotcha. I was looking at a moisture and density tester for greens that was about 850 dollars but that is still steep when I can get a pretty good idea of the density using the volume/weight measurement. Thanks for sharing.
Curious to see if anyone can discuss other options I may not have considered. I'm currently roasting on an upgraded Behmor 1600 and a Sweet Marias Popper. Thinking about upgrading, but I don't want to shell out for an Aillio Bullet. Can anyone think of midpoint options that roast 200-350g and can give me a bit more control (access to Artisan, fan speeds, etc).
I roast 250 grams with the Hottop KN-8828B-2K+ connected to a laptop and Artisan software. I'm not sure what the maximum capacity is but I'm pretty sure it's less than 300 grams. They have a basic model which cannot connect to a laptop but it can be upgraded.
There has been a gap in the home coffee roaster between the Behmor and the Bullet as far as drum roasting is concerned. The Hottop is an option as mentioned by Adrian. For about 1,800 dollars you get an electric roaster that has about a 300 gram capacity drum roaster that can you can roast manually or connect to artisan and control from there. Every roaster has its strengths and weaknesses. Since I have never roasted on the Hottop I can't really comment BUT Adrian has been roasting on his for at least a year, maybe two? Having said that, my next video I will be introducing a newer roaster to the market that is offered in several different sizes for the home coffee roaster and they would also be an option for you. The price range from about 1,300 dollars for a 200 gram up to 2,800 dollars for a 1 kilo. Stay tuned for the unboxing and initial overview of this roaster in my next video.
Mike, I've had the roaster close to three years. I do one roast a week on average and I just finished roast number 143. A friend of mine has been using a Hottop since 2006 and he roasts at least twice a week. I'm looking forward to the unboxing of your new roaster but I sure don't want to be tempted to buy another roaster!
Interesting, so I guess that would apply to most coffee roasters then. Are you measuring first crack with the first crack sound you hear, successive cracks, smell, or are you monitoring temperature fluctuations with the ET or BT. Basically, I'm saying that potentially, all coffee roasting events could be viewed as subjective. Several years ago, I saw a study that monitored humidity in the Exhaust air. Their correlation was the events like dry, and especially first crack could be visualized in the measurement of humidity. Pretty cool.
