I am a home coffee roaster and all around coffee enthusiast that would like to share my experience roasting, brewing and drinking coffee. Starting out with a popcorn popper, I moved up to a Behmor 1600 to roast my coffee. I am currently roasting on a Mill City 500 gram coffee roaster which allows me to get creative with each roast. My channel topics include home coffee roasting using various methods to roast as well as different brewing methods. We explore other aspects to home roasting like where to buy green coffee beans, how to roast coffee, trying different roast profiles, the basics of roasting coffee at home and we even roast and taste coffee and talk about it. If you want to learn how to roast coffee at home, this channel is for you. If you are a seasoned (no pun intended) roaster, share your comments and interact. I am always learning from other home coffee roasters.
Hello! Thank you for this video! I bought the M10 gen 2 after a year of owning the M1. I can't seem to get the ROR on the M10 to go above 16C/min. I'm roasting at 500g batch, charge temp 180C. The ROR curve seems to be shallow despite roasting only at 50% capacity. Is this normal for the M10?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I'm usually at 45-50% power at charge temp 180C. Once the beans go in I drop the power to 0-10%, before turning it up again to 80-85% at Turning point. Even with the power at 0% after charge, my TP temp is still quite high. TP happens at around 1:00 @100C. It's also worth noting that the BT reads a bit lower on my M10S. Dry End @ 140C, FC @180.
Hey Mike, I really enjoyed this video. As an Amazon Vine product reviewer, I was offered the Roma Pro for review and expect delivery tomorrow, so stumbling upon your primer was very timely and informative. Having never roasted coffee beans before, or even considered doing so, I'll be embarking on a whole new journey and hobby, which I'm pretty excited about. I've subscribed to your channel to help with the steep but fun learning curve. I have no doubt that you'll hear from me again. I don't even know where to order good green coffee beans yet, so my next stop will be your video on the topic. Thank you in advance for the plethora of advice I'll glean from your channel. Bravo.
Hi Mike, how do you determine how long you want the total roast time to be from charge to dump? For the purpose of dividing the times for the 3 phases.
Hi Frank. Great question. There are quite a few variable that won’t allow me to give you a cut and dry answer. Here are some variables. Type of roaster Bean type Batch size Process type Bean density Roast level There are other variables, but these are a few that stand out. Let me know more about the variables I mention so I can give a better answer. my upcoming video addresses your very question. It all starts with a roasting plan. I have a video in my profile series playlist that highlights the worksheet. The worksheet is available for free download at my buymeacoffee.com/virtualcoffeelab/extras
Amazing, I've decided to get a roaster same as your's. Will it be convenient to use this type in an apartment. And use the fan suction in the kitchen, above the stove, for the exhaust smoke to go through.
This roaster weight 75 lbs and is not designed to be moved. Venting directly outside is recommended. I don’t think this would work well in your apartment. Another less expensive roaster with a smaller footprint that had similar feature except it is electric would be the Kaleido M2 which is a 400 gram drum roaster. See the espresso outlet website for details. They also provide great service and support
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Thanks for the reply, actually I had plan's for the Yoshan EC-500. It's around 33kg. Electric powered. Problem is I can't make holes in the wall for the exhaust. That's why I wanted to use the kitchen exhaust fan. Do these small roasters produce a lot of smoke?
the gas roaster weights about the same as the electric. It's heavy for a traditional kitchen counter. Venting issues are the same between the two. The darker you roast the more smoke there will be. You can produce a lot of smoke if you go to 2nd crack. I can roast inside with no smoke because I generally roast on the lighter side of medium. While there is a chaff collector, it isn't a filter. Chaff will escape and go out the vent (not that much but some....). The Kaleido m2 weighs less, and I believe won't blow as much chaff out the vent.
I think you mentioned drum speed here but you didn't change it from the slow speed throughout the roast. What effect does drum speed have on the roast process?
Hi Gary. Actually, I changed it twice. The first time I actually slowed it down by mistake. Then a little later I turned it back up. For traditional drum roasting, drum speed can be used to promote convective heat transfer. By increasing the drum speed, the beans are “lofted” and spend less time with conductive heat transfer (touching hot metal or beans ). The other factor is the Behmor light. Dragging the beans higher up the drum wall with a faster drum speed allows more exposure to the quartz light. At least in theory. This would help speed up the roast.
Hi Dan, I’m using a reducer from grainger www.grainger.com/product/JET-Dust-Collector-Reducer-Sleeve-48RJ24 with some mods. I used tin snips to cut slices in the 2” and so it could flare with the tapered exhaust tube. I used radiator clamps to secure
I have roasted 2lbs with the m10 before and I used the peaberry from Tanzania. I used a lower power setting than you did here and it seemed like I hit second crack really quick. I heard first crack and then what I thought was still first crack it turned into a rolling second crack. Happened way faster than I planned. It was my 5th time using the m10 but I feel that my roasts go too fast. Any recommendations from your experience with this roaster? I want the development phase to last longer but haven’t figure out the settings for burner and air.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab My batch size has varied but I’ll be sticking to about 2lbs. I was using a charge temp of 340F, and that might not be high enough, but I’m still learning this machine. My desired roast is more of a Vienna Roast for the Tanzanian Peaberry, and I noticed that the BT didn’t get much over 400F and was already in second crack. I did not hear a moment between first and second crack and was shocked to see it already dark and oily when I thought I was still in first crack. I don’t have the temp readings for you. My apologies.
I would imaging your roasts last 12-14 minutes or longer with that charge temperature and batch size. Roasting 2 lbs (900 grams) I've charge my roaster as high as high as 425f/220c degrees with a drum speed of 90. This helps me get a higher initial rate of rise and a shorter total roast time than a lower charge temp of 340f/170c.
Thanks for including degC. For me (and perhaps others) it has been the practical link to useability which I feel I’ve missed on many great videos of yours I’ve watched. Tks
I brew 60 ounces each morning of the coffee of the day. Never know what that will be. In the evening I will use pour over for another 32 ounces of usually a different bean. Right now I am drinking some Sweet Maria's South American blend in the pour over I roasted. . 8.2.2024
I use the Breville Smart grinder Pro and it has the most consistent grind I have ever seen. I also use the Breville Precision brew. Together they make a great team. I use unbleached paper filters rinse first.
Love it! I found my popcorn popper for $4 at a local Thrift Shop. After roasting several small batches, I let the roasted beans sit over night to degas for more flavor development. Now I'd never go back to buying roasted beans, because now, I've got the freshest, best tasting/smelling brew in the WORLD, right in my very OWN HOME!!!!!!!!
That was my experience as well. Believe it or not, it gets even better if you move into a home roaster with heat and fan control. Lots of fun and really good coffee!
Can that probe trick also be done with a behmoore 2000 drum? Do both models use the same drum? Any idea if it’s a easy/straight forward hack for the less handy among us?
I have not seen a 2000 drum up close so I don't know. It seems like behmor only offers one type of replacement drum found here behmor.com/product/roasting-drum-cylinderone-only-per-person/ but you might want to email them to be sure. I don't know how easy it is because I didn't do the hack and drill the hole .
Big fan of the channel, i have been learning alot from your videos and your very entertaining to watch. Im starting my roasting journey and im hoping to get really good at roasting light and fruity
Thank you for watching my video and for being a subscriber. I have posted the recipe for this Behmor roast on my Buy Me A Coffee Extras page here: buymeacoffee.com/virtualcoffeelab/e/283524. It is free to download.
Wanted to check out your roast profiles up for the Aillio bullet. I think I've only seen you do one on your channel? Have you done a few more since then? Wanting to roast a Kenya soon and trying to decide on a good profile for Max fruit and flower.
Thanks for your message. I just tested the link on the buymeacoffee.com/virtualcoffeelab/e/280615 page which worked fine. When you click the link to see the profile, it takes you to Aillio's public site roastworld. If you are not logged into the site you will be asked to sign in. That is how their site works where the profile is shared. I'm sorry you had difficulty accessing the profile. The profile is of the Guatemala Huehuetenango I roasted in the video I posted here on youtube. I would like to roast more on the Bullet and hope to do so in the near future.
Interesting. So you are toggling the fan and can turn it on or off anytime you like? Wow, that is really nice. I can already see how that could be used regardless of the profile. How long have you been using that? How are you using the toggle (examples) if you care to share. Thanks for watching and for being a subscriber.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab on the one pound setting, I bounce back and forth with the p buttons to maintain temperature. After the 10:30 mark, I leave at full power and toggle the switch to maintain temp around 315-320 degrees. Between the 8:30 - 8:00 minute mark I flip the switch to constant on and roll into first crack. Also purchased a rheostat to see if I can vary the fan speed instead of just on/off. Have not tried it out yet. The toggle is working well.
very nice. Thanks for sharing. I would be interested in seeing some pics of your setup if you are willing. You can connect with me on my Virtual Coffee Lab facebook page. Thanks again.
It's worth noting the cycle time on the heating elements for the Behmor is something like 15 seconds, so changing from P5 to P4 actually might take as long as 15 seconds before the heater turns off. With good timing you can simulate 82.5%, 62.5% etc. by changing the setting back and forth. Opening the door as you did is a good way to make a more rapid change to the temperature. I started with the Behmor 1600 in late 2007 or early 2008, upgraded to the Plus as soon as that was available and kept active with it until just this year when I purchased a Skywalker from ITOP on Aliexpress. My initial experiences with the SW lead me to believe the Behmor is no longer going to be active for me. I've added an Arduino to the SW and can now control with Artisan to supplement the standard timings.
Hi Bill. Thanks for sharing your experience with the Behmor. That's pretty cool. Congrats on the new roaster. The Skywalker uses IR light for heat right? is the drum metal or glass?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab yes, it's a steel drum with a central heat source, so you are heating the beans instead of heating the drum and letting the drum heat the beans. Very similar to the Behmor in that respect, which is the primary reason it can do it's thing on a standard household power circuit. It's about the same weight as the Behmor and a little more compact. I put mine on a rolling cart to better place a laptop next to it so I can monitor with Artisan, though that takes a minor mod between the roaster and the control panel.
197C is 387F. It's wild to me that your first crack and drop are finishing at the typical first crack temperature of coffee, which is around 196.5C or 386F.
I guess the question that undergirds this observation is: Do you find your BT probes are running 10-12 degrees C hot? Do your drop temps typically line up with the roast color associated with them?
Great observation and an interesting topic. The differences you notice from one roaster to another have to do with probe placement, thickness and some other variables. For example, I had to adjust my BT temp on the Mill City 500 gram roaster I have. It was off almost 50f degrees I did this using an offset inside artisan. Even comparing the same roaster there will be differences. It could be a variety of reasons why they are different including how far the probe is pushed into the roaster. With regards to charge, dry, first crack, and drop, I have found that even using the same machine, i can manipulate the ending temperature by how much momentum I have in my roaster. If I'm building up energy with my power at say 80%, my ET will most likely be increasing. If I stay on the power and the roast fly's through first crack, I have seen the drop temperature be higher than what the bean color looks like. I think the probe is influenced by the energy rate (80%) compared to a lower energy rate of say 45% or 20%. You may even notice your temps being different at other events like dry or first crack compared to how they usually are if you are really pushing the power. I have found that when comparing graphs and temps with others or from machine to machine, we can't rely on temperatures. They are good for trends but the real data is found in event times, bean color, and moisture loss. I can rely on that data and be pretty confident but temperature readings not so much. What do you think? Thanks for watching and sharing your comment.
On my last roast with the extension chamber i heard a loud pop. When i emptied out the coffee beans i noticed a white smudge spot on the lower roasting pot. It looks like a thumb print. Unable to feel it or clean ot off. Any thoughts?
Michael, are you referring to the Fresh Roast? If so, it could be some sort of electrical burn? Is your roaster operating properly now? I would contact the manufacture and ask their advice.
Nice video thank you. Why there is a third probe needed? the PDI . it is not enough with the one for the bean temperature an another for the exhaust temp?
Thank you for your question and for watching my videos. Also, thank you for subscribing! I provided this answer on another video you asked a similar question. I will place it here too. This Mill City 500 gram roaster has 3 probes. If you are a home roaster, machines like the Kaleido or the Aillio Bullet use 2 probes. As with most drum roasters we want to measure bean temperature and the exhaust temperature. The bean probe is placed in the bean mass to give us a fairly accurate idea of how the heat we apply influences the bean. The exhaust temperature is usually placed where the air begins to exit the roasting chamber. This temperature is used in several ways. I use exhaust temperature as the potential energy currently in the drum. I did a video called "roasting with exhaust temperature" that gives a pretty good idea of what I am trying to describe here. I would encourage you to watch that. Exhaust Temperature was a game changer for me. I use those readings to help me see into the future of my roasting temperatures and I actually manage my heat partly based on exhaust temperature. It is also really helpful when I first begin my roast (charge). The third probe is in thePID probe located in the middle of the drum. It is the average temp and many roasting professionals will charge their roaster using the "PID" temp. I use the PID on my Mill City 500 gram roaster when I warm up my roaster BUT I don't use it at charge. Instead, I use the BT probe. This is a personal choice, not necessarily the rule.
Thanks for watching. Actually, the roaster has 3 probes. As with most drum roasters we want to measure bean temperature and the exhaust temperature. The bean probe is placed in the bean mass to give us a fairly accurate idea of how the heat we apply influences the bean. The exhaust temperature is usually placed where the air begins to exit the roasting chamber. This temperature is used in several ways. I use exhaust temperature as the potential energy currently in the drum. I did a video called "roasting with exhaust temperature" that gives a pretty good idea of what I am trying to describe here. I would encourage you to watch that. Exhaust Temperature was a game changer for me. I use those readings to help me see into the future of my roasting temperatures and I actually manage my heat partly based on exhaust temperature. It is also really helpful when I first begin my roast (charge). The third probe is in thePID probe located in the middle of the drum. It is the average temp and many roasting professionals will charge their roaster using the "PID" temp. I use the PID on my Mill City 500 gram roaster when I warm up my roaster BUT I don't use it at charge. Instead, I use the BT probe. This is a personal choice, not necessarily the rule.
Hi, thanks for the video, was so helpfull for me, I have the same roaster for 8 months, roasting 900 g batch of Colombia washed Geisha 1800m, and Castillo 1400m, will appreciate some tips for these particular coffes, thanks
Hello Fidel, thanks for watching. 900 grams gives you more room to be creative with your profiles. Density plays a big roll in how aggressive we can get with our heat. The roast level and balance play a big roll in total roast time and how we craft our profile to maximize flavor, acidity, development, etc.. I'll see how I can incorporate how to approach different coffee's based on all of these factors. Honestly, each of my videos addresses "why" I am roasting a particular coffee a certain way. I would encourage you to listed for that as I discuss my roasting approach. Of course the type of roaster plays a huge roll in the "why".
Is there a way to determine if green coffee is old? I just recently purchased washed ethiopian and indian monsune ,roasted them in my fresh roast,and the flavour profile was really disappointing, especially the monsune coffee just smelled like dry stale playdough,and the ethiopian had nit more glavour,some chocolate and citrus and tested pleasant,but nothing like the ethiopian i bought already rosted. What good monsune coffee should test like when fresh and well done? Thamk you
That is a great question. Age of coffee can be an issue. The only way to know if the coffee is still worth roasting would be to roast it, like you did. The other way is to measure the moisture level of the bean itself. Most of us don't have a way to do that. The seller should have a quality control system which includes documenting moisture content of the bean. Generally speaking, this takes place when the coffee is being exported and also when it is received by the buyer of the greens. With regards to your experience roasting different coffees, you are absolutely correct. The Ethiopian is going to taste more sweet and fruity than the monsoon malabar. That is because they are totally different varietals, densities, bean size, and so much more. They will roast differently and taste differently. When I roasted my monsoon malabar it smelled moldy and tasted swampy and dirty. Does your seller provide farm details like harvest date?
@VirtualCoffeeLab I will have to check with them,it was 1 time I was using them,mainly because they are the only game in town and for now I don't like to buy online and pay shipping. And yes my Malabar was testing moldy and swampy,I guess that's common characristic ot that coffee
☕ so much emphasis on the rate of drop, gas & air flow, points & charting, yet mostly absent of the simplest reveals like, o h h ~ say the Final •[[ Temperature ]]• ?? Xtreem'ly high-maintenance presentation with too much Fru-Froo ~ 🙄 it's coffee 🫘 beans ( seeds ) for cryin' out loud 😁
Thanks for watching Greg. I get what your saying. I think one of the point I was trying to make was the importance of lowering the rate of temperature increase to allow development without over roasting (roasting darker than you intended). For me, our target temperature was about 398f / 203.3c. I appreciate your comment.
Hi Samuel. It was hard to get an exact temp because the heat gun influenced the probe. The high temp displayed was 402f / 205.5c but after I removed the heat gun the temperature dropped to 396 / 202.2c while the probe was still in the bean mass. This is one of the challenges with air type roasting. When the bean probe is placed in the bean mass, it is reading both the hot air temp blowing into the roasting chamber and the bean temp. It isn't a reliable source of Bean Temp alone, BUT is still helpful to determine roast progression.
as a fellow engineer, i really appreciate the quantitative quality of your videos. I am currently trying to replicate the Peet's Ethiopian Supernatural, which is a dark roast they have around February each year. Any tips for getting a dark (just before 2nd crack) roast with a Sidamo whilst keeping the citrus flavors?
Thanks for your kind remarks. I’m glad my videos have been helpful. Generally speaking, the longer the development and the darker you roast, the lower the acidity . Accomplishing this on the behmore could prove to be very difficult. If it wasn’t the Behmor, rather a traditional drum roaster, I would try a faster, high rate of rise with a steep declining ROR. Keep the middle phase around 2:45 long and then with a ROR that will push you through first crack quickly, drop the coffee just before second crack. If your ror is high enough, it could be about a 2 minute development. Now, how can we do that on the Behmor? Hmmm, pre-heat to 225f with chaff tray and drum. Turn off roaster. Pre-heat again and charge 200 grams of cofffee and in manual mode, roast P5 till first crack (which should be a pretty fast crack)and then go to P2 until just before 2nd crack or 2 minutes, whatever comes first. Not sure if that will work but that is my best guess. I don’t usually roast like that. I would be interested to hear how your roast goes.
Nice to see you again Mike. I’ve been using the LeBrew RoastSee C1, it doesn’t get much love, perhaps not as much marketing as DiFluid, and using it has really helped me in my roasting. I was just using weight loss percentage as a guide for roast level but I find with the color meter that weight loss and the color meter are not always in sync so it’s good to have both. I have the R2 but don’t use it much, I found the DiFluid product to be inconsistent in its measurements and the user interface on the app to be underwhelming at best and poor contrast making it hard for me to read so I just stopped using it. I do like the particle size feature of the Omni. I was going to get a set of Kruve sifters but the desire just kinda went away - I use my grinder on mostly the same setting for pour over with some small variations for espresso so I think I’d use it a couple times but probably no long term value there. I hope you are doing well. All the best. Edward.
Thanks for sharing Edward. I’m glad you’re doing well. I’ve really enjoyed my DuFluid experience. I roast different coffees each week and find the brewing configuration needs tweaking when I go from coffee to coffee. Using the app has helped me understand the impact of grind size, water temperature, ratios, pour method and so on. As a matter of fact, I e totally changed my brewing recipe because of the app and the refractometer. When testing the same brew over and over, my results have been consistent. As for the app, no issues with contrast but there are some features that are not obvious. Assume you can touch almost anything and it will respond. No “button”type stuff, just numbers, arrows and icons. It super intuitive but I’m getting use to it. Maybe the display and interface has changed since you used it? How long have you have your R2? Maybe difluid will exchange it?
Hi, Ive had a Behmor 1600 plus for about 6-7 years and its finally carked itself, so Im looking at your video as Im thinking of buying the new Bm 2020 SR Plus. AS a side note, what I did with my BM 1600+ was when Id finished roasting and hit cool, I'd rush it outside, opened the door completely and used my Makita 18V blower to speed up the cooling to preserve the yummy flavours. Your thoughts? DB from NZ
Hey David. Thanks for watching. The blower sounds like a cool idea. I'm assuming you are roasting outside. Are you happy with your roast quality and quantity with the Behmor?
@@VirtualCoffeeLab No I roast inside, then wisk it outside once cooling mode is activated. Not totally happy with roasts, after watching your video, I think Im roasting too lower temperature, I was roasting on P5 , I think I'll try P3 and P2 ands see what happens
David, I roast in the manual mode on the Behmor. This provides more control. So, in the manual mode, P5 is 100% power, P4 is 75%, P3 is 50%, P2 is 25% and P1 is 0%.
Hi, I am using CROPSTER software in probat 5kgs, please I would like to know when I load green beans in the whopper which one is considered as a CHARGE TEMPERATURE Is it exhaust temperature or bean temperature? That will guide to release the green beans in the roasting chamber (roasting drum).
Hi Steve, sorry for the slow reply. I was traveling. I personally use the BT but I know there are roasting professionals who use the ET as their charge temp. I don't have a strong opinion either way as long as your setup (between batch protocol) is consistent. For example, air, charge weight, and drum speed are the same settings at charge from roast to roast. What have you been using with your roaster?
Great job as always, one thing I always notice when you roast with the same Kaleido I have is how much cleaner and less smoke in 5he room you get. Whenever I do A larger roast (I like running 6 to 800 grams ) but when I drop a medium dark i get a ton of smoke in my little shop and lots of chaff blow out through the cooling fans. Oh and ya just left my front guard off after replacing a heat element. Also notice the build up of chaff inside the machine.
Does your roaster have the metal grates between the chaff tray and the drum? I usually don’t roast darker than 16%. My drum speed is pretty high which knocks off the chaff. I also have air turned up pretty high after first crack, which will suck out chaff before the end of the roast. Thanks for watching!
Great video as usual Mike. I love watching your content. How has your experience been with light roast on the m10! I’d love to see a video on your inputs of roasting light. I have tried so many different roasting approaches, drop temps, develop time, batch size, etc for nice light roast Ethiopians and I just can’t get anything good on them.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I'm roasting between 500g and 625g. Shooting for 12-13% moisture for light and around 13.5% for medium light. I usually hit my medium light moisture target with development around 17% but my flavors are not pleasent. It never tastes properly developed.
@@VirtualCoffeeLabat least a week and even longer sometimes. I use aeropress, kalita, v60, and hario switch all with similar issues. My last roast was 4:15 dry, 1C @ 7min, drop at 7:20 (195C at 1C drop at 201C).
This is difficult to determine Matt. Let's look at this from 2 different angles: First, the roast. There is a problem with the roast - You mentioned "ethiopians", but you didn't mention the process. I will assume the bean size is pretty small. The beans probably don't look super light. What are the notes you should be tasting. Is is a Yirgicheffe? Your moisture loss is in line with the roast level you mentioned. The one thing I noticed that I would do differently is to slow your roast down a little. Your total roat time of 7:20 is a little short for my tastes and you might find going longer may allow for more overall flavor development. Aim for a dry time of 4:30, a FC time of 7:30-7:45, and a drop at 8:30. I look at the phases, times, and percentages to help me set milestones BUT I also. take a step back and make sure my overall roast profile will allow time for the miallard reactions. I'm sure the coffee is really dense and you don't need to worry about roasting defects much. Also, with my M10, I'm cranking the air up pretty high towards the later part of the roast. I've found myself at 70% air in development. Of course this all depends on how much momentum you have. I'm curious, what is your ROR when you enter FC and when you drop the coffee? ok, the second angle is brewing. There is a problem with your extraction when brewing: You mentioned several different brewing methods. Are you able to measure Total Disolved Solids? What is your brew ratio ? Are you grinding fine enough? What kind of grinder are you using?
Hi , thanks for this. I have the same roaster and I tried doing 1.2 kg a few times and it takes well over 20 minutes-not good at all. Just curious, I have a 120v model is yours a 220-240 volt model? I would think so as you have 2600 watts worth of elements. I can manage roasts up to 900 g in about 14-15 minutes. I tried to get help from Kaleido and I did what they said but no success. I think it is due to being 120 volt?? Having said this I like the roaster but I had to lower my expectations. Thanks again. Very helpful.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab I am not sure what sv means. I need to look at your channel and learn more 🙂. My charge temp is 220C and air is 0% until I drop the beans into the roaster then I have it at 15% and I don't adjust till first crack then I lower temp and more air so it slows ROR. Temp Return 76C @ 1:04/Dry End 131 @ 5:35/FC 198 @ 13:58/ FC End 201@15:16?Drop 202@15:42. Thanks.
Bruce, SV means "Set Value". That is the temperature setting you would select for your charge temp. Then, when you click "start heating", the roaster automatically heats up to that level and holds until you charge the roaster. For the M10 at full capacity, I turned my SV up to 230c which is max. Then at charge, I left the power at 100% with air at 10%. What was your power setting during the first 5 minutes of your roast? My Turning point temp was about 15 degrees higher than yours. That tells me your charge temp was like 210-220c? Does that sound about right? If you are running 110v that could be the difference, I'm not sure.
@@VirtualCoffeeLab Okay great I appreciate the definition. My SV is 220C like you suggested and what I was doing for a lot of my roasts was charging the roaster and wait for the turning point and then work within the 85 to 100% range for power up until first crack. Next time I will try a full load (1.2KG) @ 230C for my SV and then I will use 10% for air till first crack and also use 100% power and see what will happen (at least this will give me a reference point). I will let up with more air and less power at first crack and beyond. What do you use for drum speed-on your video it seems to be fairly high? I am at 40% because I am trying to use conductive heat from the drum to help with heating the beans quicker?? Problem is when I use the tryer I need to speed up the drum to get beans to sit in there to look at. Do you think my drum speed should be adjusted to? Thanks.
Thanks for the video on the M10. I'm impressed that roaster was able to handle a full load of 1.2kg. Others have reported tripping the breaker at full power on the M10. Are you running 110v or 220v. I have the 110v roaster and have never tripped the breaker but I also have never roasted at over 80%.
Really valuable information. Just took shipment of an M2 primarily because of the videos here and on Espresso Outlet. Barrett is a great resource for the hobbyist roaster as is this channel. The target times and temperatures provided here are a huge help in learning how to use this machine. It is quite a bit more complicated than a Behmor but you have really broken it down well. I roasted my first two batches of 300g today to familiarize myself with the Artisan controls. Watched this video again and now I am eager to go back and roast more. Thank you!
I enjoyed watching this roast. Personally, for my comsumption, I would never roast that many beans. That would keep me from using the roaster as I could not drink coffee that fast. lol.
With my FR SR800, my target is about where you hit this one as far as weight loss. My last roast of Honduras beans was 18% and has a very good taste. I can taste the caramel most in my roast. Right now I am drinking some of the same beans I stopped at a medium roast. Still good coffee. So many variables with this hobby. In my short hobby of roasting, I have done only one roast I put in the trash. I let the beans get past second crack and before I could get them cooled, road tar.
I’ve been maxing out the Behmor 2000ab plus for the past 40 roasts, 454 grams.. Wish there was more heat and the auto-fan didn’t kick on at 7:30mins. And the other safety feature I wish there was a way to mod, it doesn’t let you turn roaster on if the temp is above 246 I’ve experienced.
Yea, so a 1 pound charge weight is max capacity for the Behmor. The only way to get shorted roast time Or to roast light on the Behmor is to lower your charge right to 1/2 lb or less. That will allow you to switch to 1/2 pound setting and the fan will come on at about 5 minutes.
