I am getting ready to have Todd and Big Beard Battery start a system for my GD 270 BN. Great video to understand the parts list I have and how all of it comes together. Thank you!
Your videos are fantastic, thorough and clear! Just when I was sold on the EG4 system, you pull this out. 50 amp thing i guess. Different batteries/systems for different scenarios. This new system seems like it will be SOOOO much more expensive -ouch. But in my mind, maybe with the benefit of being much more cold tolerant? My RV is stationary in southwestern VA
Great video! Have some questions and hoping you can answer. Own a 2025 Delta 252RL. Any tips for drilling the hole under the bed? Unsure I want to spring for the Victron. Especially if I have to rewire/bypass existing charge converter. Have been looking at the Progressive Dynamics Intellipower PD1620A 2000W that some other owners have been opting for. It’s only 4in high/thick. If I went this route, do you think I could put the black panel back in place if I vent it? Lastly, do you think there would be room next to the inverter to mount Starlink Gen3 router and PSU? Ideally, I don’t want to give up any space in the passthrough and it would also be nice not to have to relocate table mount. Plan is to start with 1 or 2 ~300AH lithium batts and use existing Rich solar MPPT and WFCO charge converter. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks!
Yes, you could use the Progressive Dynamics. You don't have to run a new wire. I did that because I wanted to power the entire RV. The factory prewire only powers one half of the panel. You definitely have enough room for the Starlink
@@2KrazyKampers I'm going MPII 2x120. Should have everything this week. Did you run the 6/4 SOOW down the camp/door side, or down the driver/water side? Any insight on how you pulled that wire would be awesome. Seems like it could potentially be the most daunting part.
You totally sold me on the EG4 48 volt system and based on that I went with that. Now you are going back on that and telling me about a system that you received free components and I m supposed to believe your review isn't biased? Disappointed.
The 48volt system is still a great system. As I said in the video, our new RV is a 50amp coach. The EG4 is not capable of running a 50amp rig without having 2 inverters. We did not have the space in our passthrough to put both inverters. The only inverter that would fit in the space we had is the Victron Multiplus 2x120. The only other EG4 option we had was the EG4 6000XP but it didn't fit in our passthrough. If Victron had a 48v inverter capable of 2x120 we would have used that with the eg4 batteries. The EG4 system is still the easiest and most economical system for a 30amp coach
Also, I would have preferred to run the 48v system just because of the cost of the wire. I spent over $800 on wire for this system. Instead of running 2/0 wire, I would have been able to use 1awg wire with a 48v system. We also had to consider weight. After we add our solar panels, this system is about 250 pounds lighter than our previous system.
They way I explained it to "the approval committee" (wife) was that if you use a Victron system the upfront cost will be far higher. Like 2x or 3x. Using the EG4 all-in-one system will absolutely work but you may find that it will need a lot of fiddling to keep it working. It depends on your personal preference. Pay more for a better "wife acceptance factor" and no tinkering, or pay less with the understanding it'll take some tweaking. You can use a 48v or 24v battery setup with the Victron system too. The next system I do, I'm planning to use 24v EG4 rack batteries with a 24v Victron system. It's an in-between option.
Maybe dont allow RU-vid vids to make your buying decisions for you? Technology is always changing. Especially fast with solar electric tech. Plus...different RV usually means different needs from a solar electric system.
It has a 250amp mega fuse on each leg for solar and to the inverter. Then there is a 100 amp mega fuse for the 12v leg and cerbo. In addition there is a fuse in the shunt from batteries to the distributor. I believe that is 400amp but I’d have to check
Joe, I am always intrigued when I see these solar installation videos from different RU-vidrs. Yours is the first I've seen that, thankfully, showed most of the actual devices being connected together on the ground inside a room. That was so much more relatable as if everything were in front of me; consequently, it was easier to follow along, especially when you ran the cables. I was also very impressed with that carpeted cover you made for the wires in your storage bay. NEAT! Continued safe travels to Rachel and you.👍🏾
thank you so much. I know it makes the video longer but I think it’s important to show each step. I learn by seeing so because of that, I try to make my “how to videos” based on what i would need to see in order to understand it
Thank you. This level of detail and explanation was very helpful. I have an EG4 and a SolArk, and already planned on Victron for my third site. With the goal of comparing the three before doing the large install. I already thing I'll like the Victron better, simply due to my use case favors the split out components vs the All-in-one (otherwise the EG4 is also great).
Using a Lynx Distributor on BOTH sides of the shunt: Typically people use the NON-FUSED Lynx Power in (it's $40 cheaper) but if you're going to put fuses on each battery, instead of buying fuse holders just do what Joe did and use a lynx distributor. I was floored when I saw on the Victron Lynx documentation that they show that as a typical use and even tell you how to use the DIP switches to identify the different Lynx modules so you'll be able to see on the Cerbo if a specific fuse blows and what device it's hooked up to.
Curious wht you chose to use 4 separate battery shutoffs vs wiring the 4 batteries in Parallel and a fuse between the positive cable and a single battery shutoff?
It was at the recommendation of Todd, also its is better for the batteries and system. Paralleling to busbars allows each battery to be individually fused and functionally independent from the others. It is also better for maintenance and upgrading because you can turn off one battery without affecting the system. Also each battery has far less joinery and thus less path resistance as opposed to daisy chaining them with jumper wires which makes it better for balancing due to resistance. You can absolutely jump battery to battery but the better way to install a system is by using a bus bar. It just costs slightly more because of the wire and extra disconnects. In the grand scheme of things, what is an extra $100 though when you are installing a system that can cost anywhere between $7000-$15000. Todd actually made a video about this but I cant seem to find it now
LiFePO4 batteries are very safe. They don't explode and If you subject a LiFePO4 battery to harsh temperatures or hazardous events (like short-circuiting or a crash) it won't start a fire or explode. Also, there isn't much difference between being under your bed or in your passthrough considering your passthrough is also under most RV beds
@@2KrazyKampers You need to do a search and watch as these batteries explode and catch fire when crushed at a crusher....they do catch fire, and they "can" explode!...trust me!
They are cheaper than Battleborn. Yes, there are cheaper batteries but in my opinion, they aren't as good and you don't get great customer service since they all come from China
Whats your reason to go with the victron multi plus 2 and not the 2x120 for 50 amp service. I’m up it air on which one to go with. There about the same price. Seems like the 2x120 might be a better choice.
