How to run your woodburner over night? 

@@cpurssey982 just a local chap who supplies kiln dried ash.

Good choice! Yes I did film this with an Allure 4

2”s sounds pretty good, you obviously don’t use it too much. That stove is a lovely old thing, some of the old Jotuls now are basically collectors pieces.

That’s an interesting idea, I’ve advised a lot on this in the past. I’ll add it to my video list.

Awesome, let me know if you struggle.

@@TheTortoise worked perfectly, ty

If I have a hot fire I will prefer to shut the vents quite quickly as this will add to burn time, but with this method to be honest it works so reliably that it probably doesn’t matter too much.

A good bed of ash is definitely your best friend for an overnight burn.

I could be mistaken, but I believe this is the same as the Oak stoves and the Aga Ellesmere and Ludlow stoves. Oak designed and built the stove in England and then offered it out to others with essentially the only difference being the door. If you check out my reviews of the Aga stoves it should give you the details of how they work vs others. Obviously the Aga stoves are much closer to wood stoves than coal stoves, so if you’re burning mainly coal you may want a different stove, but if you’re using mainly wood then happy days.

@@TheTortoise thanks for the reply much appreciated…. May look at a Dunsley instead 👌

My experience with Tiger goes back to when they first started. Back then and I expect still now, their stoves were cheap Chinese imports. My father had the misfortune of losing a lot of money through warranty claims and issues on Tiger products. But on the other hand, I would very much expect (like every other Chinese stove), that the quality has improved a lot and so has the after care etc. In terms of performance it will depend on what you want, this being a multi-fuel appliance it will be at a big disadvantage when burning wood, but if you’re using it mainly as a back up and focal point or you intend to buy smokeless (although that seems unlikely given the rising costs of it), then there could be no issue at all. Let me know how it will be used, what you’re burning and some rough room sizes and property age.

@@TheTortoise Thank you for your speedy response. We went into a stove store and the guy agreed with me and together made my husband rethink! So I’m more in charge now lol. We have picked up loads of brochures and I will be binge watching your channel and binge watching some more before deciding what is the best fit for us. Thank you so much! Your channel is amazing.

@@ooocake4910 thanks a lot, let me know if you have any other questions.

If you’re burning wood then you do want things fairly stodged with ash, but if you’re burning coal based fuel, then you’ll tend to riddle the grate once a day to drop ash into the pan below.

If you’re burning wood then a clean stove is typically a greedy stove 😬. 😆

This will have been caused by one or more of the following: You may have closed the air vent a bit too much. You may of not had the stove very hot when you put your last load of logs on the stove (it needs to be very hot when you load it and then close it down). Your fuel may have a bit too much moisture in it. Give it another try and through a bit of trial and error you will find the answer. It’s also worth running the stove hot on dry fuel for a couple hours after each try as this will burn the tar off both the glass and the chimney.

Most wood stoves are designed to be burned in cycles, not the way that is described here. You should be timing your cycles so that there's a small bed of coals remaining just before bedtime from the fire that was started around sundown. pack the stove over this bed of coals with larger splits arranged pretty tight, fill it up. Open the air full for about 15 minutes of intense flames to re-heat the chimney system and get the secondary and catalyst burn systems activated (if equipped), then choke down the air control to the manufacture recommended low burn rate setting. Continuous feeding rather than burn cycles will almost always generate more soot deposits both on glass and on the chimney system and catalysts. Continuous feeding also requires a lot more monkeying around with the stove. This video should be ignored.

The purpose of this method is to ensure that any fuel in the stove has already burned off any moisture or creosote causing resins within the wood. The theory is that if you do this well, then the stove should run very cleanly, but take a long time to go out (the way you can tell if this has been successful is if the glass stays clean). The stove overnight will naturally cool down, but this is not concerning as stoves will always cool down as they go out, this method is merely prolonging that process.

This stove is my next series to come out! I found the stove superb, but running overnight cleanly is a tough balance.

An overnight burn is generally still possible even with the DEFRA kit in place. But as a general rule I would want to remove it. Given you’re not in a smokeless zone, the only potential regulatory reason why it must be in place is that the stove is fitted on a 5” liner.

This stove is a Hunter Herald Allure

@@TheTortoise never heard of it. Does it heat the house well?

@@simplelivingmontana it’s a room heating wood burning stove. Hunter is a UK company, but I believe they export stoves around the world, I doubt they’ve exported to the USA yet though.

@@TheTortoise it looks very English. Thank you.

@@simplelivingmontana 😆 thanks.

Mine told me the opposite. Which shop did you visit?

It’s definitely something you can do badly. That’s the reason for the video, so people who do, do it, can achieve it in as clean way as possible.

I guess as long as you burn it good and hot the next day the flue shouldn’t coke up long-term, although I’d love to hear from anyone with experience on this

@@RealityNewsYT it's one in Nottingham

Hardwood will always last longer as it has a higher calorific value. You can also run it for the same amount of time and you will get more heat. It just depends how hot you run it.

Pine... Burning quickly..is it good for start... 🔥 Fire. And add on occasionally a ..log wood pine..only occasionally. But for run properly for keep whoom the home you need a decent wood to good wood for burning..like owk .. and hard wood. Ok!. So after .. before go to bed; make sure that in stove the hair vendilayion is open and lower open..but not close. ..keep little open. Full inside of wood/ 2..3 nice wood owk wood and close stove door,!!. Make sure that is nassin closer to the stove.. children toys..sow you cat not playing with it and bring it closer to the stove.. 🔥..no animals should stay in stove room and specially in night. Apart it..I use to keep a metal water bowls ..it will stop to dry the room...ok. it is it what I do. That is what we do in our home. Italy. You free to do I. You own choice. But anyway..wood pine..is not really good.only good for start the 🔥. Bye now. Enjoy the whom ..

As you have a multi-fuel appliance it will be very tricky to get wood to burn for long periods, you would essentially do a similar thing with coal based fuel. Do be careful with this however, as smokeless fuels can be very corrosive to chimney flues etc.

@@TheTortoise Thankyou for your reply I brought some chimney and flue cleaner that turn the black stuff in the chimney into soot so when it comes to chimney man cleaning it it should come out like powgb

@@jackiecarnegie6978 sounds good. If you have a big tarring issue then smokeless fuel can also break down tar. Just don’t use it too much, as once you’ve breaded the tar down it’ll start breaking the chimney down.

I’m not sure what to say 😆. Definitely convenient, but tricky to recommend to others 😅

😅

Excellent tip. Thankyou

This is advice for Woodburners. Multi-fuel stoves could work the same if the ash pan was full and there was no air able to come through the grate due to a good bed of ash. Of course if you were burning coal based fuel, then you follow the same technique only with coal based fuel. If done well it should work every time.

I imagine you’ve got something with a lot of thermal mass. Does your stove have heat storage blocks in it?

@@TheTortoise yes. I have a Tulikivi fireplace and it weights like 1000kg:s, i also have smaller one which weights like 210kg:s. Smaller one gives heat for about 10 hours after you have burned load of wood in it and the bigger one goes longer. The smaller one is called Porinmatti.

Yea 👍 they sound amazing. Definitely a lovely option if you can get it!

Depends on the stove, but definitely some can. The Hunter Allures were particularly good at it, and you can remove their DEFRA kit.

Heta inspire 40 ?

@@d17mop you could learn how to do it with that stove, but definitely easier in the 45

The Burley I tested ran overnight with ease, it was great. And surprisingly, I had one of the small 4kw versions.

Yea it will need clearing of ash, but you always try to keep a good pile of ash, so the stove runs economically.

Historically this was the case, but wood burning stoves have improved so much more than coal burners over the last 15 years, that you can get just as much out of wood now. The main reasons this is better is: You can grow fuel yourself for free. It is carbon neutral/net zero. It looks far prettier when wood is burning. It looks after the chimney, where as anthracite is very acidic and does huge amounts of damage to chimneys (particularly to liners). Anthracite does have a certain convenience to be fair though.

Yea it’s best to avoid wet wood. But if you use this technique it’s easily possible to get a very clean burning stove to run overnight and to still have clean glass when you return. This indicates very clean burning and low particulate production.

@@TheTortoise You're right. I remember from Finnish camping. Raise the temp high enough and use max amount of wood

The air vent.

What stove do you have?

@@TheTortoise osburn 2000

That seems strange. The specs on that stove don’t seem to imply an expected controllability issue. It may be worth experimenting with a deeper bed of ash for the wood to burn on. Clean stoves burn hot and fast, but a good bed of ash will slow the burn and insulate the fuel for a long burn. This technique is all about building up layers of red charcoal that as it burns will insulate the layer below, giving a very long burn. Even without this technique the manufacturer expects an 8 hour burn time, so what you’re saying does seem strange. Could it be that one of your vents is not working correctly, or do you think you have a very powerful draw on the chimney?

Check the rope seal on the door is good and the seal around the glass. Stoves will pull in air from these points if not sealed properly.

No not always. Often if a stove is DEFRA approved then you may, other times you would only half or 2/3, 3/4. It’s impossible to say because every chimney draws differently.

It’s an arundel do mk2 Is that defra approved?

I just looked online and it’s saying it is DEFFA approved so does this mean I can completely shut both vents and it’ll still burn. I mean both are shut now and it’s still burning Iv got coal and a peice of wood in there

If you still have flame then fully shutting doesn’t sound a problem in your case.

The stove I’m using is a wood burner so there is no grate. Generally multi-fuel stoves have grates, but this means they don’t work very well at keeping wood in for long periods.

@@TheTortoise perhaps I am wrong,but is there a plate with holes in that the wood sits on when it burns,or a series of bars that the wood sits on. Spaces to let air up to the fuel?

Not on a wood burner. Typically you burn on the flat base of the stove with no air below at all. Air beneath wood will tend to waste the fuel sadly.

@@TheTortoise ah! Thanks for that

Well hopefully not 😬. But I know what you mean.

Yea this is all about wood burning.

No, definitely not 😆 I like your car though 👌

Can you explain that in further detail? What do you mean by big loads of wood every 4-24 hours? Obviously the point of this system is it doesn’t cause sooting. You do it in this specific way, as this enables a stove to run for long periods without being fully shut down. This means that in the morning the glass and bricks are still clean, so there is no unnecessary sooting. Obviously this is done with dry fuel, but is also done with catalyst stoves successfully too.

​@@TheTortoise Absolutely! Continuous feeding strategy often results in low EGT's through the dirtiest part of each logs burn. There isn't enough wood burning together to ramp up the EGT's high enough to achieve more complete combustion and drive unburnt gases out before they condense on the chimney system or catalytic converter system (if equipped). This loading technique will often fail to keep the catalyst active when it is needed most. If the cat stops working while a single log is still off-gassing, the cat will soot over, plugging the exhaust of the system. the 4-24 hours range will vary depending on the size of the stove, fuel type (hard/soft wood), and heat demand. The vast majority of wood stove manuals recommend burning wood in cycles, with each cycle involving a "load" of fuel that fills most of the firebox except the space above the fuel for the secondary combustion to work. They also generally have a recommended procedure after a reload, that involves running the stove at full throttle for 15-30 minutes (varies by stove) to bring everything up to operating temp, and then setting a low burn rate to finish the burn cycle with.

Advice on stove use changed to “cycles” because wet wood was much more widely used and the answer was to burn hotter for shorter periods. The reason I suggest burning in this way (if you want to keep your stove in overnight), is this will enable a stove to run overnight: Without fully closing the stove down. It is kinder to the environment, because lighting a stove is the dirtiest part of running a stove. Without causing sooting. This way of getting an overnight burn is cleaner than you think, because the first place to reveal excess sooting is the glass (and if done correctly there is none). Not shutting the stove down fully means EGT’s stay high whilst the last fuel is burning (or off gassing as you say). The stove then naturally runs for a huge number of hours with fuel that is already burned to the point that it is essentially producing no smoke (literally none. This is similar too a bed pan warmer, in that only burned fuel producing no smoke was used) The reason it runs overnight is you have a big pile of these “red coals” that are then insulated by the next layer, and the next layer. All slowly turning to ash and insulating even further. I understand what you’re suggesting, but if this technique is followed correctly then your fears are misplaced. This does not cause those issues, which is why I could suggest it to others.

@@TheTortoise The strategy will work fine until you put a resin-rich piece of wood on top of a mountain of coals. It will not be able to drive stove temps or EGT's high enough to burn off the soot. It will plug the cats and leave a mess all over the glass and chimney sysytem. If you have all resin-free hardwoods to burn, this strategy might work for you, but if you burn softwoods I would advise avoiding this burning strategy if you want to burn off the soot properly.

I sort of get that, but it’s a bit like saying if you want to drive that’s fine, but if you’re driving on black ice, then it’s dangerous. Burning resinous wood on a stove with a cat is madness no matter what you’re doing. Recommended fuels for all stoves is dry hardwood so this isn’t really relevant?