WARNING: DO AT YOUR OWN RISK! I am not responsible for damaged chips, damaged motherboards, or your house burning down. YOU are choosing to follow this video, and if you point the finger at me for messing up your console, I will just laugh at you.
Going to be trying this, my brothers 360 is a jet engine even after swapping paste. He used it in an enclosed cabinet for a bit so he may have dried the paste under the IHS. Edit: Was successful. I used a razor blade that was in a box cutter which is a bit thicker so it took a LOT longer. But I eventually did it. The cooling performance difference is absolutely insane.
will you show us how you re-apply paste between the die and heatsink? I'm interested because of the height difference in the dies. Thank you for another great video.
I hate consoles that use an IHS... only causes trouble and will cause a lot more trouble ten years in the future. Thank you for this guide! I'm glad my 360 slims still run fine, though who knows how long.
Recently acquired a beat up 360 E Corona, warranty seal intact. I planned to delid, but then I saw the stock thermal paste was still wet. Was surprised to see zero dust inside. Must've never been used. Applied MX4 and slapped it back together, it's whisper quiet!
You sure it wasn't replaced? Those slim warranty seals are super easy to bypass. Sometimes when I take the casing off it doesn't even break, just separates cleanly. The stock paste is designed to cure dry to last a LONG time as opposed to the aftermarket pastes.
I used a thin nylon fishing line wire after heating the lid with a hair drier. I don't remember the size though. Definitely safest way absolutely no way of scratching. Also fixed back using silicone sealant. Works great.
Yeah, but most people already have a razor blade so I recommend. I use painting knife in PS3 CELL :) Btw, I'm being pedantic but the CGPU is NOT an APU. APU is AMD's term for a CPU + GPU. This chip was designed by IBM, ATi (pre AMD merger), and Microsoft.
@@Josh.Davidson if you fancy doing a quick video or just a link to the tool next time/if you come to do a PS3 again that would be handy. I have a bunch of fat PS3 consoles knocking about, which at my current burn down rate I'll get around to in 2027...
Question: would something like dental floss work to cut through adhesive. It's frequently used for "just the glass" replacements on phones, since they laminate the screen to the glass.
My mistake was removing the black sealing from the socket, and making temps go a little bit high of what it should had been, but you can see the thermal paste underneath the IHS is completely dry
It's supposed to be. The long lasting type of paste "cures" into place. As long as you don't break the seal it will last a long time. Eventually it needs replacing but not because of "dryness". You're comparing it to your aftermarket paste types which typically need replacing in about 4-5 years, far too short for any consumer device. But yes you can alleviate this by gluing the IHS with pressure only over the CGPU die area, not the eDRAM die area. That should help.
Hi josh, the thermal paste underneath the IHS could be the same between the IHS and the heatsink? And you have a suggestion to what type of thermal paste to use ?
You can't. The heatsink is designed to have the original height. Also if you do that the eDRAM won't touch the heatsink well - and in addition, the IHS adds a lot of thermal inertia - which actually will help dampen thermal spikes... *BUT* the default temps are fine, so why bother anyways.
Do you think that the difference in die height is the main reason the chips fail? (Especially with the fat models where they didn't have the heatspreader to equalize the heatsink pressure) P.S.: I'm just guessing, I don't have any experience with any of this
No, not at all. On the Phat the eDRAM is also lower. That is on purpose, because the eDRAM puts barely any heat out, while the GPU die puts a lot out, this ensures the heatsink is always flush with the GPU die.
i wonder how the temperatures are after doing that. I did only new thermal paste on the Heat Spreader and the temps are around 70-75°C. The fan is at normal noise level.
Then don't worry, the paste under IHS is likely fine. Only change it if you see the fan ramping up frequently or the hot spot (labelled CPU) diode approaching 82.
I cursed ps3 IHS plates and I do have 2 ps3 with delid IHS plates. I never knew my xbox 360 Slim edition has IHS plate (now I really have to do this lmfao) glad my fat xbox360 (jasper) is easy to replace thermal paste
So i was wondering what are those 8 legged tan looking parts thats atached to the green substrate? are they uF caps? im asking cause i broke 1 off and im trying to figure out how feeseable it would be to re attach another one. ( i dont have my hopes up tho lol)
@@Josh.Davidson if u were to put glue on 4 corners of the chip to hold the ihs down, I’m asking if it would be hard in the future to remove, speaking for a silicone thermal glue to be exact
@@Josh.Davidson what I did to mine was place the IHS on the heat sink where it would normally sit being held on with paste, then putting paste on the actual chip, so it sits how it should and is as close as can be to the heat sink
Same result pretty much. If you scraped the silicon off the IHS or substrate, your susceptance to worse thermals. Unless you get lucky with the delta height of the CGPU and eDRAM dies.
@@Josh.Davidson May I ask why? Cuz as long as you make sure it does not touch the components should be fine. I mean it's the same heat since you see on computer CPUs well the same material? Also, what are those components that are around the CPU and GPU chip
Not fitting in the Topic of the Video but Could you look at Jacob R's Video because that 360 that failed in that Video has an Error which i never saw and looks interesting
I accidentally got hungry and ate the IHS. I then took a bite out of one of the corners of the motherboard. After that, one of the capacitors ended up in my ear. I'm not hungry now.
