Here is a short video on one method of removing the bearings from a Saito engine. The engine used is a Saito 50, but 45-65 Saito engines have the same internal parts on the crankshaft.
Hello, your videos helped me a lot to repair my FA-62A. I could remove my crankshaft and was able to remove the front bearing. But the rear bearing is still on the crankshaft. How can i remove that bearing from the crankshaft. It looks like i need a "puller"?
As is normal the vibration in motors 4 cycles and this was my first, I never noticed if it had excess vibration. I feel it just with the crankshaft in the crankcase.
+Admar A Godoy Unfortunately that is just not enough information for me to make a determination. If this is your first 4 stroke then what you feel could be normal. I have no way to determine if what you are feeling in YOUR engine is normal or just inexperience on your part. Is the engine fully assembled or have you taken it apart? Have you tried running it yet? I assume you would know what bad bearings feel like if you have had other 2 stroke engines. The crankshaft could also be bent but again, it is impossible for me to determine that. Sorry I cannot be of more help.
Your method for removal of the drive hub transfers forces directly to the races of the front brg. There is a slot in the prop drive washer to mount a puller which is the normal removal method. One may also make their own puller using a large flat washer cut into two halves. Then rest the crankcase between two parallel surfaces such as an open vice. An off the shelf puller or battery terminal puller may also work. The puller prevents forces transferring to the races of the front bearing and crank housing during the removal process. This lets one check the condition of the front bearing before deciding to discard it. Heating the hub with a heat gun is recommended, as thermal expansion of the drive hub helps it to release while minimizing risk of damage to the prop hub's taper mounting surface.
Hı, I want to ask a question about these engines. Especially the gas versions of Saito. Do you have any experience regarding saito gas engines, like people say that saito gas engines stop in the air if the weather is too hot. I am living in a very hot place where in summer time we get 45co degrees. Is ıt true to say saito gas engines are not performing well in hot weather conditions. Thanks.
Gracias David from Catalonia!! I feel more secure when i see your videos and thanks to this i return to make airplanes with a nice engines!! Lots of thanks !!!
David, I viewed yur Vid on bearing removal , before I started - very good explanation.I have a Saito FA 80 that has a bad bearing . When I removed [ very carefully] the cover which houses the push rods from Engine block , I could not see any physical markings on the pinion gear for replacement ? I thought this would be an easy ? ha- removal of the shaft - heated the block til too hot to hold ,went about as you have shown- to remove Shaft - which is a NO go. I hammered away but no movement of the shaft ? For lack of anything else , I applied Kano KROIL oil [very good penetrant ] to the inside of the block, which is now soaking.
Are you sure you are talking about a Saito FA 80 engine? This engine does not have a pinion gear that slides onto the crankshaft. The gear is cut into the crankshaft. Only the 65 and down incorporates the pinion gear for timing. Maybe I misunderstand your issue. See page three of this review. It shows a picture of the FA-80 crankshaft. sceptreflight.net/Model%20Engine%20Tests/Saito%20FA-80.html
AS far as crankshaft removal, yes it may take some soaking with penetrating oil. Keep in mind you are also fighting the press fit of the brass collar inside the drive washer too. So make sure you soak that area with oil too. I use both 3 in 1 and PB Blaster along with a heat gun.
Thanks for the come back . Yep tis Saito FA 80 , gear is cut into crankshaft . I was able to get shaft out - HAVE TO pull prop hub first vs tappin on it . It fell out just fine, removed bearings and replaced them . NOW , I am puzzeled about getting gear box back on so that the timing is correct .I noticed there is a small hole in the cam lifter part but no way to run anything down the push rod opening to fit in that small hole . Let me watch yur vid again as I was hoping to have thing back togeather today . Thanks
In that Vid , after lining up the dot on the gear , You run a small driver down to lock up the Cam On this 80 , there are cups that hold end of push rod and no way to run anything down to lock the cam shaft lobes in Place ? I'm stuck :-)
