Hey guys, ask any questions about scanning with the V600 and I will answer and help ya through it. also reach out on IG @1willcobb for direct convo help if you need. I am here to get you guys going! also welcome if you came from the developing video :D
I just bought a Epson V600 and I'm running it on Windows. I've been looking for the Epson Scanner 2 app and I can't find it. Do you know if they offer it for both Windows and Mac?
@@Jorge-125 It should be on both windows and mac. Also, i think it is on the epson downloads page and/or in the drivers section of the printer on their website. I personally never really liked using it, that is why I trashed on it at the beginning of that section haha.
I may be a little late to reply but might as well give it a shot. I recently bout an rosin V600, downloaded all the software to my MacBook Pro tried scanning some negatives but the software doesn’t seem to want to scan, I tired on the rosin 2 software and works fine, any ideas?
Probaly because thats around when digital photography gained a good amount of photographers who only used film until then. But I tell myself its for aesthetic purposes. 😅
This is precisely the introduction to film that I was looking for. I really appreciate the explanations to everything, makes me feel much more confident about starting to develop and scan at home.
Have done a few scans recently after punching a scanner and NLP.... My god what a difference there is in quality. Previously haven't been very happy at all with lab scans from Frontier but now feel confident that I can develop and scan at home and have a much better image than what I can get from the labs here. Cheers for your help mate!
Thanks for the very informative video. I didn't know there was a lot of color correction going on when you scan film negatives. I really liked how you used Silver fast and negative lab pro for the negative scans and compared them.
Thank you kindly for the tutorial. Using Silverfast without tutorials for batch processing was painful, you've clarified the process immensely. If you'd like a foolproof way to apply noise reduction in Lightroom, zoom into an image up to 8:1 ( I'm using Lightroom 6 ) Use part of an image that is uniform in colour and smooth in texture. Then slide both the Luminance and Detail sliders all the way to the right (100%) and then slide back (left) on the Detail slider until the majority of the artifacts are gone. Then slide the Luminance slider left until you're happy with the noise/sharpness blend.
I used a V600 also for ages. Anyways I digitalize as 'backup' and to can choose quickly which frame I want to print in darkroom. Now I use Olympus E-M5 III with its 60mm macro lens using a repro stand, a slimlite at 5000 K, and insert the entire film (135 or 120) inside the Durst Sirioneg of my enlarger with the clear glass down. Once all this is ok (10 minutes), just few minutes to scan the whole film. And the quality is really stunning
I laboriously scan individual 120 negs. Three microns of the neg's edges rest on the V600 holder. It takes a steady hand to get the loaded holder onto the scanner bed without moving the negs. And forget the blower. It will dislodge the negs.
yeah, a lab scan will always be higher fidelity than home scanning, You just cant get arround some of the human error. I tape my 120 to the bed. haha i think it looks great
easily the best guide to scanning i've seen so far on youtube thank you so much for your work! the quality of your videos is outstanding! i was having thoughts on scanning my negatives by myself and now i'm totally gonna get into it would love to see a guide on your lightroom routine as well wishing you all the best from russia! :)
Dude! Super helpful! Thank you for going through the various workflows. The “yummy film borders” as you call them is the main reason I opted for a flatbed scanner. By following your steps I have had great results so far!
That is amazing!! yes. the yummy film boarders are where it is at! I kinda rushed scanning the other day and didn't get them in there. I need to start doing it again.
It also works if you use the DigitaLIZA (35 mm) Scanning Mask from Lomography. Just tried it with my Epson and it works great. I worked with the scanning mask before in combination with a digital camera, but it is just as easy with the Epson.
Thank you for the detailed video and sharing your knowledge!! I started developing do to your developing video. I started with the scanner and with this info it wil go a lot beter. Thank you again!! Something I started to do is making “contact sheets”. Just scanning the full strips in de holder at a lower setting. Than checking what I want to scan. And than putting the time in de scan’s that I want. I do that to save som time.
You are so welcome!. Yeah thats a cool thing to do with the contact sheets. I think it is cool to scan the whole line of the film strip. its cool to see them all together.
Really good comprehensive video. Been afraid to work with seller fast but now I'm confident. I'm working on perfecting a hybrid workflow where I made contact sheets with the flatbed and then digital camera scan the selected ones
My newest scanner is a 21yrs old Epson Profection 2450 Photo, and the main reason why I got it is that it scans 4×5 film. Haven't shot 4×5 more than 30yrs, but still have a good deal of it from school days. Epson does make plugins for Image Capture, but I like to use the scanner in full pro mode, so I get a little dark edges when I scan. Have been using an old g4 mac to scan because for some reason the plugin doesn't like 4×5.
Love the video dude. So helpful and easy to understand. didn't even know about silverfast 8 because it's not on the download page anymore made scanning 100x times easier than using epson scan
I saw in the NLP group that when you go to white balance the profile to white balance should say "Negative Lab Pro (current version)". If you click the 4 squares you'll find it. In my case I there are 4 NLP profiles to pick from. I just go with current version 2.3. I'm not sure what difference or how much of a difference it will make, but just thought I'd mention it.
Hey, great video! One tip I can give you is to make a tiff copy in the negative lab pro window. The tiff copy sliders, like exposure, will then function properly :)
Great Video wished you gone more into detail silverfast about restoring the negativ and removing dust scratchets, etc maybe you dive into this in a new episode
I don’t know some of the power user stuff of silverfast like if there is fine dust removal and scratch removal and stuff! I am sorry! I really just know that on Lightroom
Great video lesson. Thanks for posting. My daughter had a photo prof that told them to turn unsharpen off, open the histogram and slide the black to where the histogram starts the blacks on the left and the same with the whites on the right (thus undoing any auto settings), leave the image size at the size the negative is and put the resolution to 3200, or higher if the scanner can do it well (their lab had Epson V750s) and scan as a TIFF. She said the resulting file was like a RAW file from a DSLR's sensor. Finally, she said to open this TIFF as Camera Raw in Photoshop or LIghtroom and do all the editing there. This method treats the scanner sort of like a DSLR sensor saving in RAW. The images look really flat and a bit dark but everything is there for LR or PS to edit. What are your thoughts on this method?
I just ordered a V600 scanner. Your channel has been the most helpful channel on all of youtube for getting my 35mm workflow up and running. I'll be rolling with silverfast and darktable software, but will probably upgrade to lightroom soon.
The more I dig into the scanning of film I'm starting more and more wondering if film is worth investment. Can I get the same result, doing the same amount of editing with digital? What are your thoughts on film in this sense?
Its something deep to think about for sure. I don't know the answer. I am a professional photographer on digital and sometimes i love my digitial over film. But somtimes the film slapps better. It kinda is a preference.
Hi, thank you so much for this tutorial. So very useful and informative. Please, I have an issue where when I scan the image, the resulting image is covered with labels "LaserSoft Imaging". Please how do I turn this off in SilverFast 8? Thank you very much.
@@film_friends thank you, do you happen to know why there would be a color cast with scanning a bw neg using negative lab pro? Even during the conversion/resetting everything it will not scan it as bw
Great video. My filverfast version is 8.8 and I don't see the 'Auto' option in the Negfix tool. Is it rmoved from this version or do I need to enable ?
The problem I have with Negative Lab Pro is that it doesn't really convert the negatives "true to life" but gives them a distinct "NLP look," I guess to be recognizable. That's not what I want when scanning an image to edit, though... I would like to have a look as close to a standard darkroom print as possible. From how I know Ultramax, how it came out of Silverfast in the beginning is more or less how it looks - explosive colors, a bit over the top. Red and blue. If I want a look that's far away from the actual film, it's better to just shoot digital
I have several more videos discussing this topic. The real question is “what is standard” I mean true to life is good but every lab will give you a different scan. There are tons of settings in the NLP to dial it closer to life or what your looking for! It’s hard to do sometimes
When scanning my 35mm and converting in Neg Lab pro I notice some abstract digital marks on the picture, mostly on edges of subjects such as an ear or chin. Not sure why and not sure how i can fix it. Its definitely done during the scanning process
I know that some people just enjoy using film over digital, but I don't see any advantage if in the end you take your film negative and scan them into digital form, unless you have a lot of old negatives that you want to digitize. Is there any inherent advantage to digitizing film vs just capturing digitally with today's modern digital sensors that justifies the lengthy process beyond the aesthetics?
there are a TON of reasons really. but here is a thought. how do you see any image today? everything has been digitized. even if you went from your film to a print, to get that print anywhere you need to digitize it. so you are scanning your print then. film does a few things, it has character and color in the film stock, which you can get close to or a pro might be able to match but the film just gives it to you. film uses old film cameras, which have really beautiful vintage glass that gives a lot of character to the image. you can adapt that glass to digital but hardly anyone does. you get mistakes, out of focus, not perfectly in focus, all that kinda stuff from manual focusing. you can do that on digital, but most dont. you dont "cheek" and look at all your images the moment you take them. it makes you think more about your composition and put you in the moment. i tend to like my film more for their thought of composition and WAY less photos to look through. I shoot digital at weddings right now and add some film in during the portrait session. there are uses for both
Will, I recently started scanning using my fuji x pro3 and 80mm lens. I think I see an image quality difference now. I used the epson v700 for a 1000 years now. the light source of the v700 may have shifted, dimmed or faded. I have noticed a difference in results from both methods. camera scanning has the best results, any thoughts? I use vuescan, NLP and lightroom with the v700.
Hi I have Epson V850 pro and I'm looking for the best way to scan 110 negatives because Epson don't do holder for these negatives any ideas would be very appreciated. Thanks
Hi Will... I've been following your videos on developing and scanning film. Great videos... thanx a lot. My question is: do you ever have prints made for the wall from your scanned and corrected pictures? Do they come out as you see them on your screen or how do you calibrate your corrections with the print house? Could maybe be a theme for a new video? Cheers, Henrik
Yeah I do! And that sounds like a good idea for a video! Some times you do have to make adjustments for certain print houses. You get some test prints and make sure the colors match what your ant
I often tried to scan perforated film, but it was a nightmare. When I heard from you to turn off "Auto" and "CCR" I thought I was going to pass out. Biggest thanks haha
Actually didn't know silverfast was free with epson scanners, can't believe I've been dealing with epson scan the entire time I've owned this scanner...
As far a fast scanning are you taking about the epson fast foto printer scanner ? I have several thousand pics and about to order it of a better version. My pictures are 40- 60 years old.
@@film_friends actually I didn't need LR either. I opted to use it, out if prefetence, but essentially silverfox exported to my computer and I could open it wherever I wanted.
You should not use the V600 if you are interested in ending up with images that have more than 1Megapixel (effective resolution). You can set the scanner to 3600 dpi of course, but that does not mean it can actually provide this resolution, unfortunately. I compared it to a slides scanner that costs about the same and the difference is very, very big. There are some RU-vidrs who did a resolution comparison and they also found that even if you use an slr with a Marco Lens to digitise your slides you will end up with better resolution. Sad but true.
@kk112 Yeah sometimes that isnt obtainable though. Also! you should keep trying NLP, they are always updating it! it is WAAY better then when i got into it like mid last year.
is there a difference in sharpness from using the film holder or mounting straight to the glass? I heard that the v700 changes to a different lower res lens if it scans something directly on the glass
Hello! I tried the link the the Amazon to find the V600 Scanner and instead it links to the cleaning kit. Do you think you could share the link to where you got the Scanner from. Thank you!
This video was super helpful for me !! Thank you ver much. I have one question tho, the software of the V600 tells me the I can't use a hub to connect the usb to my MacBook. But since the new MacBooks don't have a usb inlet anymore I have to use some sort of an adaptor. Will a Thunderbolt adaptor work since the Hub that own didn't ?
Hello! This video helped me a lot! But I have a question, which settings should I use for scanning the hole negative, for contact sheets? I want to edit in Negative Lab Pro, so it has to be 48bit HDR RAW, but hoy many ppl? Thanks! Valen.
Hey! I'm so glad I could help! You can use the same settings for scanning the whole thing, but remember to zoom in and focus on one of the frames first and lock in the exposure, then reframe once it is locked. The problem with doing full contact sheets is sometimes the exposure isnt perfect on all of them. for NLP the pp can be whatever you feel is best. cranking it up all the way is usually best but large files.
Another alternative for scanning would be to use dedicated film scanners like from Plustek (or Nikon/Minolta if you can find one). They are comparable with Epson flatbeds in price and are often limited to only 35mm. The benefit with dedicated scanners is that you get so much more detail from a 35mm negative than you ever could with a flatbed. I switched from an Epson V550 to a Plustek 8200i and I get so much out of my 35mm negatives that I see no reason to shoot medium format anymore.
@@film_friends The plustek 8200i which I have was about 350 dollars new, which was a bit under 100 more than the epson. There exist more expensive variants but the main difference is just a more souped up version of silverfast. The Nikon scanners can get very expensive though and they are only found used. The plustek for me was a good value since I only shoot 35mm slides. The only issues that you will encounter in regards to software are generally just about silverfast being silverfast. The scanner also has a dedicated scanning function which scans a flat scan of the negative with a push of a button on the front and it scans it and automatically opens up photoshop for editing.
Thanks for this great video. 1) Do you really think the V600 is good enough for 19"x13" prints from 35mm and from 120 roll film 6x6 negs? 2) Is all this compatible with my Mac OS Mojave? 3) Is there a good enough way of converting neg to pos in Photoshop? Thanks so much! Peter.
1: from 35mm prob not. 120 might be able to get you some large prints. I think i said in the video I didn’t like the 35mm output that much. 2: should be. 3: photoshop would be a slow process. Negative lab pro does not plug into there. Basically you should conversing silverfast or filmlabapp or something before you get to photoshop.
It might have been an issues with how You scanned it or potentially the actual camera that shot it. But lots of factors tell me more. I saw your other message about messaging me. Hit me up on IG if ya want
Negative Lab Pro convert doesn’t work at all for me idk why, it stays the exact same color just a tiny different shade of orange but it looks the exact same (I scan on an Epson)
this is a great video, but im really confused because I went to the epsonUS website and to the v600 product like you, did, but it didnt have any of the downloads or silverfast? Im not sure why
-i may be a bit dumb bc it looks like the scanner came with a cd with the downloads on it but im not seeing silverfast and anyway it should probably be on the website?
If you go to the drivers for the scanner on the epson website, it is a spot where it ha a link to silverfasts download. It requires your scanner serial number
