Yes Titebond 3 sticks to itself and can be used for boat building. Infact the Titebond 2 is NOT waterprooof, it's only "water resistant" according to the label. If you give the poor mans fiberglass three coats, sanded between coats, it turns out like fiberglass. Nice and smooth.
You can also use latex paint in place of the glue. Simply paint the item, immediately put the cloth on and repaint immediately...the paint acts as the binding, glue and waterproofing all in one. You can buy returned paint (wrong color and any color will work until the last 1-2 coats). Latex paint can be diluted a little with water...
I will make a sample piece and dunk it in a bucket of water for testing 24 hrs. to make sure. Im planning to cover the bottom of a cedar strip planked boat. Thanks for showing!
I know mate. I want to get the testing & Final Assembly video out by the end of the week, Then I can go fishing again.😃👍 (Possibly in the boat, but depends on the rivers. We have had a lot of rain in the past week or so here).
Just a guess, but I wonder if you use a lower thread count cotton sheet, the air would get released through the material better? Lower thread count per sq. in being more porous. Thanks Den! Looking good!
@@FishingwithDen I've watched a few dozen vid's on DIY small boats. Saw a guy us bed sheets and resin to "glass" a kayak. If done right, I can't see a reason for it not to work. The thread count was something that occurred to me then so just thought I'd mention it here. I should think your glue version should hold as long as it don't get dragged on the ground. Looking forward to seeing more of your build.
Will it flex or does it dry hard and brittle? I have a fiberglass boat that is rather thin and flexible. I'm looking for something to seal the spider webbing in the gelcoat before I paint the boat
Never seen it done with PVA but another great vid Den. Black marks could be the resin in the ply or nails and the glue reacting? Put some clue on a nail and see if it changes colour?
I have done a similar thing. Except I used a layer of normal pva (cheaper) then canvas, then T3, then watered down undercoat, then undercoat x3 then enamel. I just like you noticed very ugly blackening which I have to say looked a lot like mould but could not be mould as it was formed in litteral days. I never sanded as I think the fibre gives the paint and glue grip. Looks great, feels strong. Im wondering how yours turns out in a year.
If you want to do poor mans fiber glass use glue 2 not 3 on the wood ... Make sure u sand wood then clean then put glue on the wood then canvas or breath able sheet then use old iron to seal your fabric down ...Make sure dry mostly then add paint coat desire about 3 or more sand lightly in beween.. If glue does not soak in material will not work right ...
