Just a side note for any DIY’ers out there. The torque spec for the pan, especially when reusing the factory gasket or even the black wire one as a replacement do your best to get a torque wrench and do the spec. It may seem like too little, but it’s VERY important. Eventually you’ll have one leak if you don’t so don’t take the risk unless you have no other option with that gasket
Wise advice. Noobs should resist the temptation to over-tighten hardware! Torquing pan fasteners is for the purpose of avoiding overtorque and to match torque evenly. This is an excellent use for a click-type torque wrench because the deflecting beam style is harder to read upside down and requires putting yer face under the drippy transmission.
At some point Ford started to removed the drain plug on the torque converter (2000?) and the practice was dropped entirely in 2002. On this truck you could pull the TC inspection cover (top left corner of the screen (8:07) and rotate the torque converter until you find the plug and drain it. The TC holds about 6-7 quarts, the pan holds about 4 quarts, the rest of the fluid is in the cooler and the lines (entire system holds around 12 quarts total). If I took the time to drop the pan the TC would also get drained so 90% of the oil is changed instead of 30%. Without the TC plug changing 1/3 is still better than none. Replace the torque converter plug using some form of loctite. When refilling put 5 quarts in the pan then start the engine and let it idle while pouring the next 4-5 quarts. Put the vehicle in gear and back up and drive forward 5-6 feet. Then keep checking the oil level as the oil warms and more transmission fluid is added.
I'll remember that stuff. For right now our pan bolts heads have transmission fluid on them its on all the bolts heads so my guess the shop messed up the gasket or broke it or didn't put one on I know the fluid shouldn't be on all the bolt heads or they could have damaged the pan i don't know yet about it but once im done redoing the gas line and filter im gonna take the transmission pan off get that crap done then check that electronic shifter part up on the side of the transmission i think ours is broke maybe But I've got to do the gas line and filter first or the truck wont hold any gas it has to have that so it can run and warm up the fluids
The truck im working on was given to me cause the guy was ready to sale to the scrap yard. other than the rust underneath and around its still good then work out those small problems the ford has it should be good its a 98 f150 regular cab v6 with a remanufactured 4r70w transmission even though its a ford its still to good for the junkyard
Nicely put video. Simple and to the point. I learned from you how the gasket can be replaced even tho the previous gasket is in ok shape. Then siliconed on both sides before and after putting it in place.
From my many years as a diesel mechanic,we never put silicone on both sides of gasket. It only promotes the gasket to squeeze out from between the transmission housing and the pan. On the many Caterpillar machines I've worked on,Cat recommends using Cat cement on the part you can remove,in this case the pan. And on the other side only the thinnest film of silicone you can get away with. Leaks suck and this method is time proven to work every time. Just saying
You said Mercon is BACKWARDS COMPATIBLE. I found out after putting in 2 quarts and doing a DEEP DIVE on here and GOOGLE that Mercon LV IS NOT COMPATIBLE with Mercon V. Do you know anything about that?
Probably a really dumb question At the beginning of the video when you are showing a pan What is that part called that's to the left in the video next to it that seems to have a cap on it? I'm trying to help my neighbor fix his truck and it is missing that cap
Great video, thanks! Is it possible to siphon the oil from the dipsticks opening to avoid all that mess? I will likely be servicing the transmission on the jack stands so there is very little room for oil pan. Thanks!
@@2carpros Thanks. Also, I would love to see a video on 1998 F-150 cat converter + exhaust replacement. Not many of those videos out there and they look like a major pain to replace. thanks again.
U can apparently release the fluid from the cooler line too, but you gotta turn the car on. Never really seen it done that way, but it sounds possible.
One big issue - I would never allow the pan (especially full of fluid) to hang from the front two bolts as shown here (4:07). You will get a bent "lip" on the front side of the pan and it will leak no matter how you try to straighten it or how careful you torque it down - especially with the factory reusable gasket. Two bolts on opposite sides of the pan is better. Sucking most of the oil out of the pan before removing it is best and by far the least mess. The cheap gasket used in the video is ok if you are replacing the factory pan with a pan that has a drain. The RTV & rubber gasket will form a better seal than the factory "dry" gasket. But getting the pan off for the next service (using a pan without a drain) will be a big PIA and require a lot of time cleaning the two mating surfaces and you will be cursing whoever used the RTV. The factory gasket is expensive but it can be used several times usually without a leak. That's Ford's half hearted attempt to make changing the transmission fluid somewhat easier without making it too easy for DIY types.
Buddy and I are trying to replace the dipstick on his 03 f150 4.2L and we can NOT find the whole in which it bolts the dipstick to. Any clue or help with that would be very appreciative. Thank you
That rubber gasket to the front of transmission filter, where there's a round rubber and mesh square....lol I don't what it's called. What fluid comes out of there. My truck shows oil stains around that round rubber gasket area. What fluid is that?
I think you are talking about the inspection cover for the torque converter. For the helpful answer - it could be the torque converter (transmission fluid) or the rear main gasket of the engine (motor oil).
Some do, some dont. The gasket I purchased from advance auto parts instructed not to add glue but just a grease to hold it in place as I put the pan back on. It was a rubber seal also.
Is it necessary to change the filter as well? A lube shop told me it would cost $200 and they didn't change the filter. I'm assuming they would just vacuum it out and refill. Told him it was a rip off especially since engine oil and filter change was $35 and transmission service at$200 when it's essentially less work since they obviously don't remove the oil pan cuz if they did they would replace the filter as well.
Changing the filter is essential! Yeah that is definitely a rip off. It would take them 10 minutes to vacuum out the fluid and refill the pan. The filter is the hard part but you have to do it if you want your transmission to last. Thanks for watching!
So I have the same transmission but idk if it bad transmission or what it's hitting hard between 1 and 2 idk if it's trans or valve body I know the fluid is burnt but was told not to change it it can speed up the process if it's messed up idk what to do and don't have the money for a new trans if it's that
7:42 Anyone have any advice for getting that thing to stay up in there? I got it to stay JUST long enough to get the pan on, but if it falls out so easily...I'm afraid it's come out agin in there....
I would guess this one actually. The Econoline and the trucks share a ton of powertrain components! Thanks for watching! You can also look up the VIN to make absolutely sure.
I changed my gasket on my 98 Ford F-150 4.6 xlt and tighten the bolts to 11 w the torque but it’s still leaking, do you know if after years the pan needs to be changed? Or should I get a gasket like the expensive one?
Did you use RTV on it ? Sometimes the people assume the rubber gasket will seal it or maybe the manf of the gasket says rtv not required or sometimes people don’t clean out the reminancE of the old rtv/ gasket
If its an automatic its either a AODE/4R70W (basically the same transmission) or a E4OD - the heavy duty version that is a giant POS (my personal experience). Very small chance its a C6 (no overdrive). If it has an "E" for the transmission code its and E4OD, if it has a U its the 4r70W/AODE like in this video. A lot of half tons got the E4OD (both 4X4 and 2WD with any engine combination. Personally I hate the E4OD - its cost me 10 of thousands of dollars and every one of them I have owned has failed. I have also owned several with the AODE and have never had one fail - even after being horribly abused. The transmission code is on the vehicle information plate/decal on the driver's side door panel.
@@2carpros does this thing take 5qts or 14, youtube people say 4 qts online says 14. After adding 5 qts mine was full. I got out probably atleast 6qts of old fluid.
Reusable as in use the gasket you popped off with the pan? I was wondering what to do it you keep the old gasket, if you needed to bead silicon it or not.
Maybe a mod on the pan for a drain plug would have saved the customer time and money - Ford did this intentionally for customers to bring the truck back to them to make more money
@@Tryalittlebit Once you've changed the oil and filter on this style of transmission (most are now 20+ years old) I would replace with a pan with a drain plug. Keep changing the oil at 30K or less. Yes dropping the pan allows you to inspect the pan contents - but if you see chunks - what are you going to do? If the transmission is still functioning as it should 99% of the people are going to clean the pan and refill it and drive it till it quits. 1% are going to rebuild the transmission because of the chunks, If the transmission is having issues most are changing the oil in "hope" of getting the last little bit of use out of it and not looking to rebuild unless it fails 100%.
@@noone-nd4ml The filter is more of a screen. All those wear particles are allowed to flow through the transmission and the screen. The settle to the bottom of the pan while the car sits. The filter/screen does not prevent the tiny metal "paste" from circulating through the transmission. If your transmission is throwing chunks of clutch material - especially enough chunks to clog the filter its not long for this life with or without changing the oil. If having a drain plug encourages people to change their fluid more often - go with the drain plug.
@@juliobalderrama8525 Agree, The transmission arrives as the factory with the plug in the dipstick tube. When they install the dipstick tube they just push the plug into the pan and just leave it.
I really wish GM people would do their homework, lol. Pre 1987 Ford ATF's were replaced with Mercon, which was itself replaced by Mercon V; which were themselves designed to be backward compatible with previous Ford ATF's. Mercon LV is not Mercon four, six, or even Fifty-five (which is what LV means in Roman numerals). It's (L)ow (V)iscosity. If your vehicle calls for LV, use LV.
Sorry, I literally just watched another one of yall's vids where you're calling Mercon LV, mercon 4, and I'm genuinely concerned someone might not do their own homework, and mess up their car thinking LV is compatible with V....
I was told by a Ford chemical engineer that Mercon V is backward compatible with Mercon applications but not in transfer case applications. I have done plenty of homework as I own a 2005 F150 4x4 and I wanted to correct fluid for it.
@@geraldevans2535 I was about to replay saying Maxlife IS NOT compatible then I pulled up the latest label. They have changed the recommendations. Before Maxlife was compatible with Mercon LV, Dexron 2, 3, 6. Now it says basically all Dexron and all Mercon. I have to question this as Mercon LV is NOT compatible with Mercon 5 but Maxlife is claiming their oil is. Mercon 5 was a higher viscosity oil (almost 20W) while the earlier Mercon was around 15W (or slightly less.). Dexron 3 was about 15W and then went to about 10W or so with Dexron 6 and Mercon LV. I had been a HUGE fan of Valvoline Maxlife and used it in my Taurus and Kias and found transmissions to function better with it than factory oil (especially the Kias).
If it sparks and blows up due to gasses leaking out you don't want to leave it connected. So touching it slightly to make sure it won't spark is a good practice. A GM electrical engineer told me this so I'm inclined to believe it. Thanks for watching.
I have same style TRANSMISSION FILTER , that PLASTIC RING came off and my filter starved the pump and wasted a TRANSMISSION with only 14,000 miles on it. Not my fault ((BUT UNDER WARRANTY)) was replaced 👍🏻💰
