I was going to tease you because your PERFECT workshop had two files swapped on the back board. But... you corrected that shame half way through... sneaky
Global Cycling Network might've been helpful to indicate [with shimano mechs] the jockey with the white plastic bushing is usually the one that floats - just in case the writing on the side of the wheel isn't noticed or has worn off :)
Can you do a video on how long bits and pieces and components should last. Starting from the much maligned jockey wheel through to chain, chainrings, BB, headset, tyres, and anything else that wears. Obviously make it based on distance ridden. There will obviously be a discrepancy based care and feeding of components, but some reasonable life expectancy would help with budgeting for replacement parts and even from a safety perspective. One part not on the bike, but that I have a question about is the life of a helmet. People say they break down after 2 years due to sweat, but has anybody ever really tested and validated that? Keep the great vids coming! =)
Hi Ric, we have a video about knowing when to change drivetrain components, but we really don't think we can do one quite as you suggest, despite it being a great idea. As you point out, it really depends on so many different factors that there is no easy guide, and it might mean that people are encouraged to use worn out components.
Boy oh boy, GCN keeps getting better. Now I HAVE to watch every new episode, and get a daily fix! Is there any chance of some XC mountain bike coverage? No 'Rad,dude' kinda stuff, just your normal XC hardtail, wheels on the ground riding. Be nice if you could, but regardless, every day about 7pm - we are in Thailand, so my son and I ride from about 5-7pm - I'll be tuning in anyway.
in the GCN Presenter interviews it was mentioned a number of times about the benefit of using a power meter. would it be possible to produce an episode or two about the benefits of a power meter especially in comparison to using a heart beat monitor - which is obviously far cheaper thus more accessible to the majority
Could you please do a video on straightening out/replacing the rear derailleur hanger? I took part in my first roller session the other day, which was great until it ended in an unintentionally spectacular dismount... The drive-side took the bring of the force, and now the rear hanger is skew... :( I'm sure other people have had a similar situation is crashes. xoxox
We had a chain drop on an MTB ride, and put it back on with chain link tool but incorrectly. There's a tab across the derailleur arm and between the 2 jockey wheels, and we had chain on wrong side. We dropped a jockey wheel, got chain into good position and returned the jockey wheel. Perhaps tab is long cage derailleur specific.
My bike needed a new bottom bracket, which meant also removing the cranks, so I thought I might as well carry on stripping everything else down while I was at it, including the chain, cassette and rear dérailleur. It's just so much easier to clean once disassembled. The only bit left is the front dérailleur, which I'm putting off because it needs careful repositioning.
Removed jockey wheels as were squeaking slightly due to a bit of stray clothe in there. Don't squeek now but top jockey wheel no longer as any side to side play. Is there a chance I've tighten it too much? Thanks
Hey GCN! I don't know if you guys have a video (or I've missed it) of all the Lubes, Degreaser, and Grease you should have to keep your bike running smooth, but I would love to see one!
This may be an older video and maybe that's why it is one of the worst from GCN. This video is about servicing the jockey wheels, but there are enough visual or zoom in on what exactly need to be done. The pan out shot of the work-shop while talking through how to do it is as good as for me to read a book to do it. So, I do recommend more close-up shots of the cleaning motion itself instead.
great video! quick question.. I just purchased the ultegra rear mech (r8000) and I noticed that there is about 1mm of lateral play in the cage after installation- is this normal? I am not having any trouble due to this, but I have been scratching my head for hours trying to understand why that is. everything is under tension and my hanger is new as well. The rear mech is brand new and the play feels very stable, almost as if it needs to be there for some wiggle room within the pull ratio but i dont know for certain.
Hi GCN, I'm new to cycling about a year into the sport and about 7 months ago I came into road biking, and now I have a mid ranged Boardman, carbon forks etc.. and I have a 75 mile race coming up soon which I'm training for most days after school and pushing mh self hard on the weekends and I'm 14 years old so would you have any tips for me for the race? As you're all professional cyclists would nice to get some tips from you guys! Cheers, Ollie
Hi Ollie, do you mean a race or a sportive? The two are quite different and require different approaches. Sounds like you're doing the right stuff now though, so that's cool. If I had one tip though it is to make sure that you eat and drink right during your race, but that you practice your strategy in training first. Get comfortable eating and drinking on the bike and aim to consume between 60-90 grams of carbohydrate per hour. Cheers, Simon
Hi Simon, yeah sorry it's a sportive and I'm doing it in a group with some of my mates who also are into road biking like me and I got them to join me for the event so we all have morale support with each other and make the ride more enjoyable + saving energy is vital, but okay thank you for your tip. What type of food would you say is the best on the market? Or what do you use? Cheers once more, Ollie
Oliver Bramhill If you are riding relatively steadily then you can eat normal food like jam sandwiches, malt loaf, flapjacks etc. The harder you ride the more you should look to sports nutrition as it's easier to digest and faster to be absorbed. So, energy drink, gels and energy bars. But still limited to roughly 60-90g of carbs per hour.
believe or not, upper "guide" pulley should not be replaced by third-party products. Shimano's Jockey Wheels have a "secret" protected by special patent. I can't explain detail of that because of my limited linguistic ability, but this is famous story among Japanese cyclists.
Nah... Go ahead and service them both at once. The one with the more sturdy bearing will be the one going closer to the cassette (up). They are not always symmetrical as well. But that's an easy one: the better looking side is the one going on the outside side of the bike.
.Having trouble with cables eating my frame away,and have tried those sticky patches you get,but they keep washing off the frame...got any tips,or is there something better to do/buy to solve this problem..thanks...Tim
+Tim Hammond proper routing and length is paramount. Try crossing the shift cables (from front shifter to the opposite side of the frame, then cross again the cables underneath) besides leaving the housing clear of the frame, it will perform better for longer since the curve of the housing is more open, therefore with less friction inside.
Hi guys I'm 14 and was wondering which is better a road session of about 1 hour or a longer turbo session? Also what would suggest doing in a one hour road session??
Hi Freddie, there are no easy answers to training questions I'm afraid, as "which is better" depends on how experienced you are and what you want to achieve. Generally riding on the turbo tends to be more intensive so is a better use of time. There are no rests for descents or traffic lights etc, so 1 hour really is 1 hour. That said, it doesn't help you to ride a bike, it just gets you fit, so you should always aim to get out on the road too. Mix it up, that's probably key.
I’m enjoying the bike so far ru-vid.comUgkxMesz3KOGEmwmvyKQfLfrRSUXLFzfVHZA My only real complaints are the brakes and the pedals. I feel like a bike designed for bigger people should have much larger pedals and more heavy duty brakes. I’ve only gotten two really good rides out of it, minimal downhill action, and the brakes feel like they’re already going out. A larger person has more momentum, so I think this wasn’t thought through very well. Also, I wear size 13-14 wide shoes. My feet cramp up on these pedals that are clearly made for smaller feet. Since I’m not a pro rider (and I don’t think many are who purchase this bike) I don’t think that the straps on the pedal are necessary at all. None of this takes away from the enjoyment I get from riding, however. I’ll just head to a bike shop to improve on a few things.
