Long ago I replaced them on my commuter bike.. And it was so much easier to ride after that, I got about 20% faster, it was really so noticeable diference. The old ones had so many dog hairs and dirt in them. They did not turn freely at all.. I suppose, that when our dog was passing the bicycle, or maybe her hair were just floating around in air anyways, they got stuck on oily chain and ended up wrapped around to jockey wheels axle. But I was actually wrong replacing them. I replaced, because the guide wheel had side to side play and I thought, that it's worn. I did not know that it need to have that movement. After I had already bought new ones and saw that also the new one has that play, I went to online to research and got know how it really is.. but since I had already bought them, I replaced them anyways. :P
Jockey wheels are where you should start when cleaning your chain. They clog grease and dirt and will just keep transferring it on to your chain links when cleaning
Tru say, I just put on a brand new cassette and new chain myself for the first time and the wax lubricant i put on the chain helped spread tons of muck from the derailleur all over my brand new chain. Its disgusting and chunky after 1 ride. Oops lol
At the conclusion of my group ride of 47 miles yesterday, I pointed out that my buddies derailleur cage/jockey wheels were running at a angle rubbling the sides of the cage (NOISY) and suspected they were worn out. I then pointed out the lower jockey wheel teeth were practically worn off and allowing the chain to slip across and against the side of the cage. He had 1 1/2 miles to home. It blew apart 1/2 mile from home. Don’t neglect to maintain your derailleur!
Nice upgrade! It looks like you replaced factory jockey wheels with after-market low-friction ones with ceramic bearings. _Some considerations when upgrading to low-friction jockey wheels..._ 1 - Expect your drivetrain to be a little noisier. Why? Because factory jockey wheels usually have non-metal teeth which are fairly quiet. Low-friction jockey wheels often have metal teeth (aluminium or titanium) that are noisier as they engage the chain. 2 - Expect more frequent maintenance. Why? Because the bearings cannot be sealed as well (weatherproof seals add friction). For example, some manufacturers recommend that you clean and regrease the jockey wheels after every ride through rain. 3 - Expect a shorter lifespan compared to factory jockey wheels. Why? Because low-friction bearings often combine ceramic balls with metal races. The metal is softer than ceramic and, if any dirt gets into them, the harder ceramic balls can score the metal races. However, the lifespan can be extended simply by keeping the bearings clean and freshly greased. 4 - For best friction reduction, expect to upgrade the cage, too. Why? Because the best low-friction jockey wheels are much larger (more teeth) in order to smooth the path of the chain. This also reduces friction. These larger low-friction jockey wheels will not fit your factory cage. Lastly, some high-end rear derailleurs include ceramic bearings in the jockey wheels from the factory. SRAM Red (both mechanical and eTap) are one example. Cyclists who don't know this may be unaware that their jockey wheels require more frequent service in order to keep the friction low.
The factory jockey wheels you refer to as having “rubber teeth” are not rubber, but a thermoplastic. The most common we know is Delrin and is made by DuPont. The use of delrin is perfect for jockey wheels as it has high stiffness, can be produced accurately and has low friction (your chain touches the Delrin).
The back plate of Campagnolo rear deraileurs is made of very soft metal (something close to cheese). So you have to be VERY careful when doing up the screw that forms the axle. If you strip the thread (I have), then you have to replace the entire cage.
That's a good and simple way of changing jockey wheels. Never thought of this method. When I changed mine, I took the chain out, then the rear derailleur before I changed it. Tedious and time consuming I must say but I did manage to clean the derailleur and cage really well
Wish I knew this before my last ones wore out and changed about every part in my drive train. Need to check if I got the right one on the right location, now! Good tips- really overlooked.
just to clear things up guide or upper is the pulley closer to the base of the unit. upper and lower is a matter of perspective and the derailleurs position which changes, that one is not directional. the tension pulley which can easily be referred to as the pulley that is further from the derailleur, is directional and should have bladed teeth also with arrows pointing in the same direction as the chain would move as your pedaling to move forward (not back pedaling)
upgrading my dura ace several years ago I noticed the lateral play in the guide pulley when I removed it. my "upgrade" pulley didn't have the lateral movement, but I put it on anyway. it was noisy from the start. to my eye the alignment was correct . it got worse, I contacted the company owner who told me my dura ace was worn out it shouldn't have any play. hmmmm! it was a brand new 7900 that was replacing my 7800. thank you for confirming the lateral play.
Grazie mille! ho appena scoperto che la mia puleggia G era montata al contrario! mi hai aiutato a sistemare con un video chiaro e divertente. Grazie grazie grazie!
hmm, after cleaning out my keyboard and enough hair to fill a mattress (many pets) Ive just realised that the trainer not just all my cogs prob need a clean out
5:01 i appreciate the tip, ill make sure i install it the right way next time. If i needed a tutorial to unscrew two bolts i really don't see how you think i would be able to fix the chain by simply "refitting it with the chain in the correct place"
I didn't know about the pulley systems various materials & that they came with or without bearings etc. I like the idea of getting ceramic pulleys. And now I know that the top pulley is for tension & the lower one is to guide.
I'm about to replace mine after buying an old Dawes and this video was a godsend. Who knew there was so much to jockey wheels. My bottom one just had a big hole and zero bearings. It's basically just a plastic doughnut spinning away, poor lad.
Thanks for telling me I just did the same thing,so now trying to figure out how to put it back.I would hate to take it to a bike shop because if you can fix something yourself you are better off.
pugmalley It’s not which jockey wheel goes which it’s the direction you put them in that’s a bit confusing at first it’s just easier to do one at a time
I didn't know you had to change them. I've never changed mine. I'm not a racer just go fast sometimes. Mostly touring, sometimes fast and far. Bikes: Litespeed Ultimate, Titus Modena, and beater Raleigh Technium MTB.
thing is a whole 105 rear derailleur is not that expensive compared to buying and shipping jockey wheels separately... and the spring in the derailleur also gets worn so I never replaced those jockey wheels separately, to be honest... The math might be different for dura-ace, but then people riding dura-ace are not exactly penny pinching?
I live in the American west and do a lot of trail riding. the dirt and dust get absolutely everywhere. The sand and dust in my region also are high in micro quartz crystals. Quartz, by the way, on the hardness scale, is one below diamond.
Here in South Jersey we're made of silica, which is what quartz is a type of. Hardness is up there. When things are dry make sure engines have their filters. Also causes cancer.
Hello, I have a cervelo r3 de 2017, it comes equipped with Sram force 11v. however I have the following problem, the chain jumps out of the lower pulley when the chain is diagonal ( 52/32 ) I already changed the pulley, chain, dropout... I can't solve it
Can you replace the pulley on every derailleur becuase I took my back to fix one pulley because one teeth broke but they said I had to replace the hole derailleur because it was unchangeable. I have a specialized rockhopper 2020.
Hi Jon, I'm trying to follow the guide in this video to remove my jockey wheels, but whenever I try to unscrew either of the 3mm bolts that connect them to the derailleur, they won't budge and I'm afraid I'll completely strip the screws if I pull any harder. Just to figure out whether I was doing it wrong I tried on a different bike, and couldn't get them to budge there either. The two bikes have Ultegra 8000 and Dura Ace 9000 and have never had their jockey wheels removed since I bought the bikes. Is this a common problem, or am I doing something wrong?
If you are fretful about applying enough pressure to remove them without stripping them then take the bike to the bike shop and have them do it. If something goes wrong then it is on them
Great video, I've changed my pulleys once. I inspect them every time I clean my bike. Any chance on a maintenance video on SADDLES. I have a just worn down a saddle which I think has either a leather or somekind of leather like mesh. Feels like it worn down quickly since I started using my bike on a trainer and sweating like a pig. Have been on Selle San Marcos site but no info on care for my high tech racing aspide saddle.
Just keeping jockey pulleys clean, dry, and lubed to spin as designed, should last for like tens of thousands of miles. There is very little tension on them, only that from the cage spring that tensions the extra chain slack. They are largely along for the ride, except the in and out locating of the chain during shifting. Many old style wheels had barely half-depth teeth when new, yet they worked fine. If shifting becomes a problem, or if the bearing or bushing doesn't regain a smooth spin after servicing, then get new, OEM ones and ride. Ignore the posers who think a ceramic pulley will turn them into a Tony Martin. This is just pandering to marketing hype, and beneath GCN. Note that Shimano designed in some side to side play on the upper wheel to self-center after each shift, and even the priciest aftermarket units haven't addressed this as well as Shimano's own, clean, simple ceramic bushing that just needs a drop of solvent-free, non-chain lube oil to stay happy. Those other lubes dry out, binding the bushing.
The pully wheel (upper) on my newly installed and upgrade derailleur on my trike doesn't seem to engage the chain very well in a couple of gears, it sounds like the teeth of the pully wheel are being slapped by the chain as it spins by, then you her a popping noise ever so often. My uneducated self tells me that adding a different pully wheel with another tooth or two would or might solve that problem, by forcing the wheel and chain to better engage. Might this be a common problem, my drive train is a collection of 9 speed parts from different makers.
The old jockey wheels in this video were not directional, were they? I was wondering today if my Shimano 105 R7000 jockey wheels are directional but it seems they are not.
Hello GCN, I love your videos! I wonder if you would review Enduro XD-15 Jockey Wheel sets. I have scoured the internet, and there is not a single review out there, much less a comparison to other jockey wheels. NOT ONE?! I just bought a set for the my Surly Pugsley, and I noticed they don't spin like the ceramic jockey wheels I see in videos on RU-vid, and I'm wondering whether they are poor bearings, or whether I received a defective set. What do you think of Enduro's XD-15 jockey wheels? Have you compared them with other ceramic jockey wheels? Thank you!
Just make sure you fasten the pulleys back with the right torque and or with thread locker or you might be in say... The Sea Otter Classic and have your pulleys come off as you are making your way into 2nd place.
I'm considering changing my jockey wheels but not for the reasons mentioned. I've replaced my rear cassette and chain. This worked fine at first. But now the bike is making a whining sound when pedaling. Listening to the components it's coming from the rear derailleur where the chain is sliding against the side of the derailleur bracket. Is this something new jockey wheels can fix?
An installation question. When I installed my new XD-15 jockey wheels, I noticed neither of the top wheels, (the XT one I was removing or the XD-15 I was installing) had direction markings. Are the top jockey wheels no longer directional? The lower wheels both had little direction arrows, but the top ones did not.
I recently acquired a specialized fsr with direct drive that has a shimano xtr derailleur and I noticed that one of the jocky wheels is cracked. How do I know what model the derailleur is since shimano has multiple different models
can i ask? is it right to replace from 11t pulleys to 13t-14t pulleys? both tension and guide pulleys? im using shimano m3100 rear derailleur 9speed by the way! thanks for answering. :)
I replace to Ceramic Speed on my TT bike and I got faster. Probably because I also got lighter. Probably because there was less $$ in my wallet. In all seriousness I am still glad I swapped - helps intimidate my competition lol
Can I use the big jockey wheels on a ultegra medium cage rd and a 32 or larger sprocket? I’m thinking there may not be enough room for the larger wheels.
Bought a new pair of pulley wheels. They are the same, no difference or any arrows for direction. Have I missed something or is there a correct way to mount them?
Hello, just a quick question? I've fitted a new set of pulley wheels tacx (10 tooth) appropriate for my cassette make (shimano claris 8 speed). Now the pulleys that have come off are 11 tooth shimano. I seem to have noises coming from the rear cassette on gears 14 - 16, would removing a chain link remedy this as the chain runs smooth in all other gears? Or buy the 11 tooth tacx version for speeds 9 upwards? Some advise would be much appreciate, many thanks Phil
Coincidentally, i just ordered a new set of jockey wheels, not because mine need replacing, but, because i want the bearing covers to be colour coded with my rear hub :D (also, the new ones have ceramic bearings, not that it matters :D)
Hi John I’m looking to change my old aluminium road bike into a gravel bike. Could you tell me is it possible to put a 11-34 to my sora 9 speed cassette without changing rear derailleur. Thank you Lee from South Wales
Only if the rear derailleur is a medium or long cage. If you have a short cage rear derailleur and don't want to replace it, then you will need a Wolf-tooth derailleur hanger add-on (I can't remember the technical term of the part). The Wolf-tooth will effectively turn a short-cage mech into a medium cage so you can run bigger cassette ratios. That's one option if you are on a budget However modern rear derailleurs for gravel bikes, cyclo-cross, use a parallelogram system that keeps the chain tension tight when riding off road, and stops the chain bouncing around and give you the occasional ghost-shifting. If your cassette is 9-speed Shimano, get the mtb equivalent derailleur which I think is the Shimano Alivio derailleur.
@@gcntech Thank you a lot for the response, but I have two of them with 10 teeth (is that 10T then?), but I'm having a hard time finding some, could I use 11 teeth without any downsides? Also, how do I know which are the best ones for my bike 10 or 11 teeth, counting the number of speeds?
After replacing the jockey wheels my chain started skipping on the tension (lower) wheel. The chain does not engage properly, and it runs off the wheel teeth. Any thoughts on what could be causing that? Thanks!
My jockey wheels don't have that shark teeth looking, it looks new as I bought just last Oct and ride about 400km. But it has a weird sound when cadence is high, the chain oil doesn't eliminate that problem. What happened with my jockey wheels? @GCN Tech
@@gcntech The thing is, I visited the GIANT store yesterday and talked about the noises coming from the pully and jockey wheels, they had a look, made some adjustments and cut one bit of the chain. But the noise is still there, and they said it might be the biting noise between the chain and the wheel, its normal. But there was absolutely no noise at all when just bought the bike. Really don't know what to do now :(
@@EvoX180 Thank you, I faild to locate the problem, when climbing up the hills or using larger gear ratio, there always be some consistant small cracking noise coming from the rear wheel. I replaced a new cassette body and haven't climbed the hills to test it yet.
#TORQUEBACK - Hi Jon, I wanted to upgrade the Tiagra groupset of my old 2006 Specialized Allez to Shimano Ultegra R8000 or to a Shimano105. Currently, my bike is only having a BB-7420. Will the upgrade work? Need better suggestions. Budget is limited but I hope you can help. Thanks, Jon.
That works too. I wouldn't really worry about the bottom bracket, they last a long time and are very affordable. If you are buying a whole groupset, just use the one that comes with it. If there is a problem, it is easily replaced using inexpensive tools.
I got some after market jockey wheels and not sure if they are the correct ones? The ones I got have 10 teeth but my factory have more is this a problem?
