Yes I do use speedplay pedals but going to switch soon to pedal based power meter (Favero Assioma) unless Speedplay finally release or announce plans to release pedal based power meter pedals. Cmon Speedplay/Wahoo! Hurry up please.
I went through various SPD and Look pedal combinations and fittings and still had a problem with my left knee. I moved to Speedplay Zeros and the pain disappeared. The Zeros are great because you can adjust the amount of float. I've serviced mine once, with a syringe, and I have never had a problem with them. Probably the best investment I've made.
Plus for those with problems due to unequal leg length: At least of the SYZR there is a bike fitting version to adjust the stack hight per pedal. So no fat shims under one cleat as you usually wouldn't need it while walking.
I got some Speedplay pedals more than 20 years ago, have transferred them from bike to bike and still use them today and in all that time I’ve done zero maintenance to mine. This video was news to me!!!
Matt Swainston You might want to take them to a shop that is familiar with Speedplays and have an expert inspect them. I’ve seen people riding pedals that ridiculously worn out and actually quite dangerous to use.
I'd be curious to know if your pedals spin freely like Olie is saying is a bad thing, or if they are stiff. If I recall, mine were spinning a bit easy at first and in time they spin not so freely. I am probably close to that 3000km mark so I will plan to re grease. I try and lube the cleat each time I live the chain. Just easy to remember.
@@hebrews11vs5 Unfortunately I can’t answer that because not long after watching this video one of the cleats broke and being such an old model I couldn’t find replacements easily so got new Speedplay pedals. I don’t recall the pedals being stiff, but I don’t even know if that model actually had a grease port. I’ve found the new ones to be much more of a faff to get the release tension set to my liking and don’t think they’re as good as the old ones. I don’t know if you know but Wahoo have bought Speedplay and have released some new Wahoo branded Speedplay pedals that I think have got rid of the requirement for maintenance so I might buy some of those
@@MattSwain1 yes. I'm liking what I see with those who speed play power pedals. No maintenance needed on those. And hopefully save money on a power meter by buying their pedal version
No. This does not clean the grit between the roller bearings. It just shifts about grease that is not lubing anything, while eventually ruining the inboard O-ring seal. Pop the end cap off. Undo the screw inside with a T-20 Torx bit. Slide the body off the axle. Thoroughly clean and degrease the now exposed inboard roller bearings and the axle. Regrease with boat trailer wheel bearing grease. Inspect and replace if necessary the O-ring seal. Slide the body back on and tighten down the T-20 bolt and replace the end cap.
Syringes might be useful but you can't use the same syringe for grease and then use it for brake fluid. Not without the faff of cleaning it out. Grease guns are not too expensive.
Get the stainless steel plates from speedplay or just cut a metal plate to fit between the plastic base plate and the cleat. Mine has lasted for 8 years and still going. Have never replaced mine since day 1.
Stay away from Speedplay right now. They were just bought up by another company and still almost a year later are still not assimilated enough to where you can buy replacement parts such as pedal bodies, in case you’re a long time customer and have worn them out. Same goes for bearing kits, but you can find those from third parties on eBay etc. I was told around Christmas, before COVID, that it wouldn’t be until the fall that I could possibly buy pedal bodies.
Man o man did that comment age well. Bought aero zero and got rid of favorites bepro pedals in search of aero. So it forced me ( ha, forced) to get a quarq. But now starting in june of 2021 you can buy these pedals ( yahoo speed play) as a pedal based power meter and no need for the quarq.
Pro Tip: I use a product called Shoe Goo on the bottoms of the aero cleat covers. Apply a layer to where the cleat contacts the ground when you walk. The product has a strong, rubber like texture that protects the cleat from wear and provides some extra grip
What are the odds? Took a 40 mile wet rainy ride last week and the next day my Speedplay pedals were tight and NOISY. They have just over 3,000 miles on them and I never knew they needed or could accept servicing. But oops, been running WD-40 for the last 150 miles or so. Get that corrected when I get back home! THANKS OLLIE!
This is a great example of speedplay's instructions for lubricating the pedal body (read: idiot proof), but there are two sealed cartridge bearings that shouldn't need grease forced through them like that. I much prefer to remove the spindle by loosening the dust cap screw and using it to pull the dust cap, and removing the torx fastener underneath will allow the spindle to drop out. Cleaning and lubricating the spindle and needle bearing is much easier and more effective, and you won't have the added weight of a metric fuckload of excess grease. If the cartridge bearings are worn beyond measure, cheap replacements are readily available on eBay or wherever bearings are sold...
That sounds like a monumental effort to regrease the bearings. I've been doing it as described here for 15 years. The bearings are as good as new. The wear is to the plastic of the pedal body.
I hate to think how much time I have lost or getting a job finished only for it not to work. Needless to say both usually involve choice words and a hammer leaving the workshop at speed
You got that ill vibe Cotton Bud. "What?!?!" You got that ill vibe Tip " ahhh, now that's much better." ( q tip rap refference). Was that lyric above from 'tribe called quest'? and q tip was one of the rappers in the group? That thing takes me back a long ways. Surprised Olie even knew that. I guess we share not just pedal preferences but music preferences as well.
I’ve always liked Speedplay pedals, but the company has always been difficult to deal with. Many small shops have dropped them because of their unreasonable expectations and poor customer service. But now that they’ve been purchased by Wahoo, they are much more supportive of small, independent bike shops, and the Wahoo folks are a lot easier to deal with on the phone or in person.
Ollie, I am thinking of swapping to speedplay for TTs simply because of the aero advantage. I noticed that you are using the Speedplay Zero double sided with the Aero walking cleats. Do you think that is much less aero than the single sided ones? And do they work OK together?
My guess (since I highly doubt that anyone has actually wind tunnel/watt meter tested the one siders vs. the double side entry models of Zero pedals) is that you are 'splitting microns' in aero/wattage difference here. In other words, most likely too small a difference to even measure. I am just impressed that any Pro Tour teams are still using the Speedplays, and that anyone is using them on the track, even if just for the pursuit/timed events and other NOT pure sprinty/.75 HP output type events. 😊
It went together easily in less than an hour. ru-vid.comUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
if you're a new cyclists these look way over complicated, just get shimano or look and put your cleats all the way back and adjust q factor and you won't have knee pain, knee pain is easy to figure out.
I got mine at Halfords when I lived in England. Wish we had something like that in the US. They offer great value for money on decent quality bike stuff.
I always do this with the pedals still attached to the crank arms. How do you manage to keep the cap at the end from popping off while injecting the grease? I put my thumb on it but the opposite side still pops up and lets some of the fresh grease seep out of the gap wasting it.
plaese can you give me one bike trek for my birthday because im poor idont cant buy if you like it or not thank you very much ... sorry for that matter God bless at all and im kid
Speedplay pedals use polyurea-based grease (looks gel-like and is typically green, red, or blue). Make sure to use this type of grease and not Lithium-based grease (typically creamy white). The two are not compatible.
Just switched from speedplay after 5 years to Shimano Ultegra SPD pedals. I always greased the pedals and put dry lube on the pedals but always had some kinda squeak from the cleats on the pedals. No squeaks from the Ultegra and zero maintenance glad I switched.
I've ridden Speedplay's for over a decade. Probably put more than 20 000ks on one set. Barely touched them: for me they have been pretty much maintenance free. Highly recommended.
To Other SPeedplay Users: when I add grease using the same Park Tools device in the video and the same grease, my grease comes out everywhere except from the other side of the pedal. Does anyone have advice to get more grease to where it needs to go? *Yes, one hand squeezes the grease and pushes into the pedal while the other hand twists the pedal, but I still get the same results. Grease everywhere except through the pedal. Advice?
I have speed play and I get paranoid when I have to dismount the bike and walk around that I will pick up some dirt and ruin the beautifully tight pedal- cleat interface through wear. I really like my speed play aero zero pedals.
ARE YOU TAKING THE PISS - that was the messiest and most clumsy attempt ive ever seen. Firstly you wipe the grease out the other end as it’s coming out bit by bit, secondly cleaning the the actual cleat requires a toothbrush with a non abrasive cleaner detergent in a spray bottle.m, then after spray the spring with a Teflon based solution. PROPERLY DONE.
#GCN Tech. Hi GCN team, could you please answer what can cause a rear derailleur to fail? For example taking out a couple of links in your chain and reconnecting the chain without a dedicated reconnection pin. Could this be a cause. Changing gears too aggressively at slow speed just as the gradient of a hill begins to rapidly steepen. Could this be a cause? Not oiling your chain or derailleur causing the mechanism to seize during gear changing. Or a peice of gravel or excess sand/dirt entering the derailleur causing it to seize during a ride, leading to failure. I ask this question because after taking out 2 links from my girl friends road bike chain, her rear derailleur failed on her next ride. Unfortunately she took a tumble to the ground bruising her leg. The incident happened just after she had changed gear, at very slow speed, at the bottom of a hill, hence she was moving very slowly. I’m thinking she has apportioned blame for this incident on me, because she will not let me refit a new derailleur and gear cables to get her up and riding again.
Lubing the cleats from the front of the spring is almost useless. You can force some dry lube into the cavity behind the spring that works much better and lasts longer.
Without a matter of regular management, these chupa chups pedals are gorgeous in many cases. Such as walking-friendly clit covers, lighter pedals, easy tightening, etc
You remove the end cap with something thin and sharpe. pry it off. then there is a special lube nozzle adapter that comes with the pedals to facilitate the lube going in from the syringe/grease gun.
10 years on speedplay, I love /need the float they offer. Just serviced mine using the syringe method. The only issue was that the small plastic piece around the small screw popped out, a tad fiddly to put back in covered in grease.
what’s the not using WD40 in the pedals about? is it about not using it as lube (to be idiot proof) or is it about damaging plastics used in the pedals or something else?
A friendly warning to all of those contemplating the purchase of any Speedplay pedals: don't buy 4 hole shoes to go with them. You will need to add a little shim kit that is simply not available. I've been trying to get shim kit No 14135 and can't find it anywhere. I may have to toss my glorious & pricey Vittoria Ikon shoes and equally pricey Speedplay pedals to the trash bin.
THIS is the other reason (besides the inevitable wear directly to the carbon shoe soles, even when using this requisite shim??) that many told me to steer clear of the cleat mount direct to shoe, 4 bolt, Speedplay compatible shoes. ;)
@DBRising I finally got the shims. I loved the pedals and the shoes too. IMO, my "power" was raised 10-15%. I loved the "float" and set it to maximum. However, as my bike is not the racing type AND I mostly do city stop-and-go AND I got into this mess by a terrible mistake, I removed the Speedplay pedals and they're now for sale WITH the shoes 😂 and I'm now eyeing MAGPEDS that go with much cheaper shoes and that unclip very easily.
Do this regularly! I’ve had a body come loose from the spindle while riding and that was pretty scary. The cleats never wear out, unless you walk a lot. And for optimal performance you should definitely use them in combination with Speedplay specific shoes (with a 4 hole cleat mounting sole).
I have run Speedplay X series pedals on my road bikes and Frogplay pedals on my mountain bikes and love them both. However, both have been discontinued and the X series cleats and Frogplay cleats are no longer available. No one has any in stock either. New owners Wahoo won't confirm whether new stocks will be available at some time in the future.
@@neil7769 Didn't Dowsett use them for his hour record attempt?? Of course, some on here would blame his failing to break the record on the Speedplay 'lolipops' as well. LOL
No (the contact with the pedal is recessed), and as an added bonus you can get cleat covers that are both aero and allow you to clip in with them attached.
Craig Nittolo Use your eyes. The edges of the pedal body will round off, then the pedal body is worn out. If the pedal body can be “wobbled” with your hand, then the bearings are worn out. If the steel bowties are showing a brass or copper colored streak, they are wearing out. If the cleat baseplate develops a groove, the cleat and baseplate should be replaced. If the cleat spring on Zero or Light Action cleats looks like it is rounded or has lost it sharp edge, replace the cleats. If the spring on an X-Series cleat is not perfectly round, replace the cleats.
You need to put more pressure on the grease gun. One tip is to lay your bike down with a piece of wood under the downward pedal (to protect it). Then you can use your body weight to push down hard on the upward pedal forcing the grease in. Then repeat for the other pedal. One thing Ollie failed to mention is that you should continue pumping until clean, fresh grease emerges from the pedal.
It is an absolute b*tch to get in. With mine the plastic port comes up out of the pedal along with a metric ton of grease, so grease everywhere. You need to push down hard, but then it's hard to also squeeze the greasegun. Next time I'll take them apart by removing the torx screw and removing the spindle. I only serviced mine because the left pedal had a very annoying creak in it.
Why would I choose any system where I'd have to replace plastic cleats twice or more per year (Look, Shimano), whan I can have cleats that almost don't need replacing (Speedplay)? As a bonus, you get the coolest looking pedal with double sided entry, custom float adjustment, lowset cornering clearance, lowest stack height...
5 watts faster for aero speedplay at tt speeds. And so far i find no vertical play with speed play but my favorite bepro( look) had vertical play which is power loss. Power loss as in punching the air, i need a direct power when i switch from pull to push on my osymetric chain ring.
Why make a mess with grease pump and have grease ooze out for weeks after service? Just take the spindle out, put in grease and you're done! I do this once a year. Never oiled the cleats and they're fine after 3 years.
Your pedals do not spin anything close to enough rpms for even the best ceramic bearings to make any difference. Neither do your hubs. Not even on a fast mountain descent.
@@detmer87 Have you ever spun a full ceramic bearing, did you compare to a sealed steel one? If you had you would not be saying that. With proper maintenance ceramic bearings (hybrid or full ceramic) make a significant difference.
@@st939 Have you ever actually quantified the friction in this application? (as opposed to just spinning the pedal and assuming that because it spins longer that it will make a difference at 100rpm when under load..). It will make eff all difference unless the bearings are actually binding.. Besides, most of the resistance in the standard setup with steel bearings comes from the grease. Overcoming that when pedalling will take a tiny tiny fraction of a watt..
