I did this about a year ago. Honestly it's a straight forward job. I think my fear was the possibility of stripping that super tight bolt on the exhaust cam phaser!! That would be the only thing to worry about.
@@curtistino2603little late to the comments. I ended up putting some heat with a torque on the cam bolt. Not cherry red but definitely heat it up and lightly hammered the polydrive socket inside and it worked like magic. Thanks for you video man! Doing the Lord’s work!!
At 3:16 he mentions the position of the cam lobes closest to the chain. They need to be in exactly the same point of rotation (facing each other). You can use a straight edge to validate that they are exactly in the same (opposing) position.
I'm not being an ass here.. but you fail to mention the timing dot on the intake camshaft sprocket.. and the timing mark on the camshaft adjuster sprocket.. There needs to be 19 pins on the chain between the intake dot and the exhaust mark ( which is a line on the camshaft adjuster, or vvt adjuster as you call it) sprocket. You showed here how to put the chain on and put the bolt in but you didn't actually reference anything to do with timing it. Even with the vw tool it's possible to set it one tooth out as there is that much play in the locking tool. So much easier to set it more out just using vice grips. Again I'm not being a dick. I've done this job lots of times and I'm just trying to help.
Yes. I saw the video by Astral Auto Repair which talked about what you described. Where is the intake dot? I will look for the line on the camshaft adjuster
I'm in the middle of changing my timing chain and tensioner. Unfortunately the cam locking tool broke when I tried to undo the vvt sprocket bolt. Is there any way I can do this without the locking tool?
Yea this will start and run, but it would 100% throw a code for vvt. Either advanced or retarded. This is just showing you how to put it together not set up the timing at all. Plus thats not a torx 55 socket. It's a #10 poly drive. Thus the reason why urs is stripped and gouged. Lol
@@PetePutros yeah it's a polydrive bit but I purchased a pretty expensive one for one of the jobs and it snapped straight away, the best way I've found to undo this bolt is to warm it moderately with an oxy torch , obviously don't go crazy as the camshaft adjuster seals are plastic sometimes and sometimes metal, so don't over do it just give it a tickle. I used a filed down t55 bit and hammered it in so it was filling all the grooves in the bolt perfectly and then went all out with an air impact gun. They come straight out every time if you use that method I guarantee it, even without rounding the bolt what so ever.
This video is incorrect and the timing was off when he set it. There is a dot on the intake cam and it needs to be straight up, there is a dash on the exhaust cam variator count the links between.
I’m actually in the middle of this process now. Stripped out the stupid poly drive bolt even with the proper tool, had to drill it out. Done a lot of reasearch on this process and found out even with the cam lock tool, which I also have, it’s a possibility to get it off by on tooth. This to me is still a very useful video and gives me another way to align the cams correctly. Thank you for the video
Dude, why not buy a cam locking tool? That block and the camshafts look brand new to me. Why not invest in a locking tool to make them perfect? Also, its NOT a torx bit man. You stripped out the bolt then put it back on a brand new block. A new bolt is extremely cheap man, it should be replaced whenever the job is done. It only gets done once in a blue moon. Also, you re-used the sprocket, those keyways break easily(especially with added tension from the new chain) that old keyway is a ticking time bomb man. Also noticed the tensioner was re-used. There's a lot of big time things you should not do here man. If you're doing this job soon, replace EVERYTHING. The chain, the tensioner, the sprocket(especially the sprocket, I almost lost an engine becuase I didnt) AND the oil release gaskets on the VVT solonoid. Dont just go budgeting for just the chain. This job must be done throughly unless you wanna have this whole thing come apart, send your engine out of time and bend your valves and completely total your engine.
Don't understand how you aligned the intake with the exhaust since you were moving both of them with vice grips separately. You put the chain on the intake and exhaust and pushed the intake until the cam adjuster was aligned with the slot. How does this guarantee alignment?
Ok so once you lock the exhaust cam with vise grip against the the side of the head so it cannot turn now use the other vise grip on intake cam to turn it toward the exhaust cam and the vet will drop in place if it’s not timed properly the head bolts will not drop in also both intake/exhaust cam lobes must face each other
At no point did you give a single precise instruction or a single precise measurement or number. Not to mention you're using vice grips instead of a cam lock and you're using a Torx instead of a proper poly Drive. I could have pulled out my broken engine head and made this video before studying anything.
That poly drive is useless on this bolt. I have it and it always strips. Vw/Audi were idiots using this poly and that tiny 12 point bolt that always strips. Smh
Yes but you never showed the intake cam time ,You just showed the exhaust cam with vvt but you bever set the intake in time or showed . how you know if the intake is in time or not. You just put the chain on top and thats it. You put that intake cam wrong out of time like a tooth or 2 off. The intake actually has a timing mark and also the vvt has another mark where you gold chain pin should be than count 18-19 pins and is where the intake cam mark should be.
Those are VERY important details! Morton, you need to show and explain how the cams sit in the head in regard to the dots on the sprockets as well as the exhaust front sprocket Mark, and crank pulley mark. There are FOUR separate points that need to be lined up for timing. - The gold link on the chain must straddle the two teeth directly above the stamped dot on the VVT. - Then you count 19 chain link pins over, mark the 19th AND 18th pins, then straddle those two marks over the stamped dot on the intake cam. - Then that's when you use vice grips or the Assenmacher cam holder so nothing moves out from these settings. Unless ALL of that is done, your timing will be WAY off, possibly enough to bend valves.
@@KingZoneOne how many pins should there be. Directly right of the intake cam mark and directly left of the vvt mark ? IDK if I'm supposed to count the first pin left of the vvt mark which is the first half of the gold link and the first pin right of the intake cam mark. I have 19 pins between the intake cam mark and vvt make rn.
@@ernestobustos1626 Sorry for the late reply. Start this video at time stamp 30:00. It explains the chain install. If you watch all 4 videos in sequence, it explains an entire timing chain/tensioner/cover servicing.
I used the assenmacher cam locker you are supposed to used a timing spanner tool also on the end of the intake cam. I found out you can use a pry bar instead. You have to adjust the intake cam to get the exhaust sprocket to align properly. If you don't it will be a couple of teeth off of proper timing.
Great view of the back of the engine I'm not gonna replace the chain, just the tensioner(and was not sure if the exhaust cam -sprocket was in the way) and he's right this is not an over thinking process hell you could just just take out the intake cam to match the exhaust cam 180 degrees opposite the number #4 cylinder he's right.
Good evening On my golf6 R I mounted a 200bar pump with 2 roller cams my vehicle started to graze and then paff a metallic noise and when accelerating it cuts and to move my vehicle it cuts off clean and takes time to restart. Error code P0088 and P310B, from point of view the PUMP CAMS has turned I am on when I watch your video I see that it is not the same position as mine
I bought a Passat a couple months ago and someone stripped the hell out of that vvt bolt i had to buy a new cam because of that. i just wanted to change the tensioner and chain. proper tools are needed for German cars.
I recommend not even attempting to remove that bolt if you don't have to. The polydrive sockets never seat square in the bolt, they have too much play, wobble, and that bolt is soft. It's far more common to strip than successfully remove it. I just take off the cam caps/girdle and adjust things that way. More work and steps, but a helluva lot less frustrating and $$.
You can get a key spanner for the intake cog to help set the pin into the key way on the out take cog without having to grip the cam like that. Cams are precisely balanced so not a good idea, but you got the job done and theirs usually a point on the intake cog that is the best place to put the connector link of the chain onto
Once you put the chain on the intake cam then onto vvt get it as close as possible to the key way now as you turn the intake cam the vvt sprocket will drop in place now on the cams where you see it has the clearance for the head bolts to slide pass both intake and exhale clearance must face each other also head bolts must be able to slide pass cams
eM u must set the vvt as close as it can get to the key way,then turn the intake cam which will allow the key way to fall in place. One way to check yourself is to make sure that the cylinder head bolts can easily pass the cutout on camshaft and the top of the cam lobes are turned towards each other
How do I know if the chain+ tensioner have to be changed? What are simptons? Check engine light? Some particular sound? Can I do some procedure to check it?
Rasta! I need your help! I followed your instructions along with use of cam lock tool. Is my first engine so i may sound silly. When i timed the engine (it looks good) i believe 2 exhaust valves in clydiner 2 and 2 intake valves in cylinder 3 are starting to open. Is this normal for timing or should all valves be closed. Thank you for helping everyone!
I have a question. I recently had my head sent out to be refurbished and I got it back. I installed it on the block and I placed the timing on the belt. When I rotate the motor by hand as its coming to full rotation the exhaust cam rotates normally but the intake cam stops rotating for about a 90 degrees then springs in to normal rotation. What do you think im missing? Or have you seen this before?
@@tylerbolles7529 I did another one of these jobs a couple months later. It looks like the rear chain tensioner wasn't tightening with oil pressure. Check oil pressure and make sure the timing chain tensioner is working properly.
Little late but there is a pin In the adjuster on the exhaust cam that locks it. I experienced this and the pin had sheared the base plate and made it where it would not lock. Basically at low oil pressure and no oil pressure it'll be like this. Possible to bend valves
Thanks for your video. But I am doing Jetta BLR engine, I remove the cover, remove the chain and hydraulic tensioner, and I try to spin the variable gear to check, it does moves couple of degree. Is that normal? I thought it should be locked with cam shaft.
This is by design; you'll see that the notches provided for the locking tool in the intake cam are slightly rounded, as opposed to the precise angle of the notches in the exhaust cam. The extra wiggle room allows you to make small adjustments to the intake cam and align it exactly to match the exhaust cam's position, as Morton demonstrates when he puts the vise grip on the intake cam. What you are looking for is that the opposing cam lobes nearest the chain are aligned perfectly, as Morton shows in 3:16.
Hello Morton, I have to replace both my cams and will be performing this procedure with the head on the engine. I plan to use vice grips to hold the cams in place. What size are your vice grips? The biggest I found is 10 inches. Also, will the vice grips hold when torquing the VVT bolt to spec? Do you know what the torque spec is for the VVT bolt? Thanks for the video.
@@gpTraveler1972 yes it will.. The kit is meant to hold the cams in place while torquing for installation.. heres a link to a kit you can look up.. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.amazon.com/VOLKSWAGEN-AUDI-TIMING-JTC-4847/dp/B06W2HCY8X&ved=2ahUKEwiNr_2R4rfmAhXDmuAKHcBAA38QFjAKegQIAhAB&usg=AOvVaw2-QhRSRBrq_16GVRTxS3vG. You'll also need this socket for the adjuster.. I recommend using some heat at the base of the adjuster and then use a impact on it.. these bolts have a tendency to strip.. making your life a whole lot worse www.ecstuning.com/b-cta-tools-parts/vw-audi-camshaft-adjuster-socket-10-polydrive/cta1036~cta/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIovOZp-O35gIVzZyzCh18JAW6EAQYASABEgIt6fD_BwE
If you look closely you will see it’s not a torx I am using. I am not perfect. That cylinder head is timed perfectly though. Also vise grips are not the proper tools but I use what I have.
@@mortonmcgann8783 The tool is called a triple square bit. You did it right. And not everyone has cam tools, the vise grips worked fine on the hardened steel of the cams.
Hi Morton. I don't understand how you know the intake camshaft is alignes, I mean, you put thw chain ramdom way and then instal the exhaust... thank you for the video.
Hello, my car is Audi A4 2006 engine ALT. I had noticed that the intake cam sprocket has 2 marks (opposite to each other) one is BIG and one is small the small mark (arrow) is pointing top 12 oclock position with exhaust timing mark, and crankshaft mark are at timing position base on rocker cover. My car had P0341, and I send this car for a check, it showed intake camshaft 18 degree out of sync. please help I tried asking them for a quote to get fix, but then was told they don't know how much ($), and finally they said not adjustable Thanks (Dominic)
Hi Morton, thanks for the video. It will definitely help with getting my Audi back on the road. My exhaust cam cracked while driving on the freeway. I removed the valve cover gasket and now have to remove the cam adjuster and camshaft sprocket so I can put them on the new exhaust cam. I saw you were using large vice grips to hold hold the camshafts. May I ask what size they are? The largest I have been able to find is 10 inches. I want to use it to hold the exhaust cam in place so I can remove bolt off the cam sprocket and cam adjuster Your help is appreciated.
I just stumbled on this page and took a peek. I stop watching as soon as I saw the vice grip and the accent and start cracking up. Dude wha kinda backayaad bullshit. But reading the comments a lot of people don't realize the difference between knowing how to assemble an engine and following a procedure. Like me this dude can time an engine by eye and doesn't need oem tools. In fact like me I bet he has the kit in a closet somewhere and rarely uses it. Knowing why your doing something is exponentially more powerful than just knowing how to do something. Engineer vs mechanic. Personally for presentation purposes on youtube viewers I'd overthink it. Keep this in the back room.