Pretty clear explanation but there is something that was overlooked for some reason, the base of the rotary isn't the same width on both ends so you can't line up like that. The Centerline is off by .078" (2mm) on the narrow end. You can easily just move the laser forward by making exact movements by that amount. I don't think it's healthy for the machine to be moving axis while it's on or even plugged in to the board. The actual measurements of that base on the big end is 3.65" ( 92.71mm) and 3.11" (79mm) on the narrower end, you would move half that amount for the centerline to be correct. You could just line up on one section or the other since they aren't the same width. Have fun nice people.
I used the base to make sure it was parallel to the gantry not centered. I used the longer section which is straight and parallel enough for the alignment for a one-off item. If you do this often, it would make sense to create a fixture which you cut a mount to drop the rotary in exactly parallel to the laser each time, but that is a more advanced thing and this was aimed at just getting people started with the rotary. Thanks for watching!
@@Vintauri Yes, I didn't really mean centerline exactly but you would take half of the dimension difference for the 2mm it would be off (not parallel to the X axis. Just making sure some of the newbies understand this.
@Bobby3Hat I'm real new to Laser's but got to say your video was very informative! Just wonder will the Atomstack R1 Pro Rotary Kit work with my Longer Ray5 10w engraver? Are they compatible?
you'd be surprised what you can do with the roller rotary, back when I bought mine that was all they had. I've done mugs with handles, cut 4 circles same OD (big enough for handle to clear) and 2 of those with an inner circle to fit the mug, with some double tape attached to ends of mug, then had to adjust the y ratio (I'm using lasergrbl) to account for the difference in that OD and the diameter of the mug, bit of work but got some good results. Not sure how that spray compares to tempura paint but that is what I use with an air brush or small air sprayer to apply
I've done that myself when is so much work to make them jigs just perfect get everything leveled exactly I think this will save some headaches and wasted cups down the road and a lot of time making jigs haha
Are you able to engrave full wraps on Stanley style cups? I was wondering that being there's a dip in the middle and if it would be out of focus or if it would work for that style of tumblers?
I have not played with the stanley cups or full wraps as I do more with woodworking projects and just the occasional metal tumbler. You can have some variation in depth and still be reasonably in focus but more than about 3-4mm difference and you'll have issues.
Do you have a link to the marking spray? Thanks for the very informative video. I have the Atezr version rotary kit I got with my V35. Looks exactly the same.
I purchased after your review. I attached to my atezr p20 plus but couldn’t get it to work. I followed your video settings exactly. I made a 1 inch square but my Y didn’t move. X moved but was moving nearly the length of my bed. After several/many attempts failing, swapping cables, I connected my machine back and now the Y doesn’t move at all. It makes a grinding sound when it starts up. When I move the gantry it is very hard to move powered or not. I disconnected the cable and noticed it moves freely. I checked for obstructions/debris checked the belts everything worked fine prior. Any idea what I did to cause this? I unstalled the laser and reinstalled but nothing has corrected user error! I have a ticket with support but they are oof til Monday. Any help is appreciated
If the gantry is hard to move without any power to the machine I think you are right in looking for a mechanical issue. Once that is moving freely, check all the connectors to see if a pin has come loose in the ends. If one of those is not making good contact then it will mess up the operation of the stepper motors.
@@Vintauri thanks for the reply. I’ve checked everything I can think of. I’m fairly new to this. I did check the pins for missing or bent ones. Couldn’t find anything wrong. I’m not sure how to check for a loose one? Do I just look to see if it wiggles? Old ladies shouldn’t say wiggles lol
@@meluv2cut so as you push them together check the plastic housings to see if a wire looks like it’s being pushed back out. That would be the first sign. If the wire itself is broke that will be harder to detect.
@@Vintauri thanks again. I checked and everything seems to be ok. If it’s broken wire I’ll have to order a new one when support gets back with me. I also bought your replacement lenses and service was fantastic. Delivery was quick too. Thanks for everything I really appreciate your help. I’ll be watching tonight.
Thanks for a concise review. NOW for the $64,000 dollar question - You said the "black" connection wire is for third party lasers, have you used this rotary specifically with a Longer B1 model? ANY info you care to share will be most appreciated. Thanks.. Hank P.S. One more question please. What is the distance from the chuck center to the bottom frame? My "typical" coffee mug has a diameter of ~ 3.5 inches with a handle protruding ~ 1.75 inches. That would require about a clearance of about 3.5 inches for a mug's handle to clear for a full rotation. BUT, as a work-a-round, If you were to angle the chuck/coffee mug upward a bit, then, the handle would clear and the left side of the rotary would need to be raised to make the mug level. Anyway I hope you follow the plan to attain a full rotation of a mug with handle if/when the chuck head is angled upward.... Thanks for your reply..
Yes, you should be able to use the white plug cable that comes with the R1 on the xTool D1 series of lasers and are using lightburn to set the parameters for the rotary. For others like the F1, S1 and P2 it might work if you can find an adaptor cable and are using lightburn.
@@Vintauri The glass didnt mark, it burnt through the tape leaving a glue residue. I even filled the glass with paper to stop the light bouncing. It works using paint though.
I have never liked Atomstack. My dislike goes back to when they would advertise their laser to reflect the power consumption rather than the actual laser power. You had some good ideas though and thank you for your demo.
I agree on the frustration on the advertised power ratings being misleading. I feel that most reputable companies have been changing their methods and focusing on the optical output power that really matters now. But it's something to keep a careful eye on.
Yes it is, I just checked a few things with the supplied measuring tape vs measuring diameter with calipers x 3.14 (pi) it's .100" (2.54mm) different, that's quite a difference. Actually it's much easier anyway to just measure the diameter.
I'm interested in how you positioned the stand at the front left of the control panel. I have an Atomstack x7 and the control panel is attached to it - I couldn't put my foot down. I unscrewed the control panel and screwed it back to the table where everything is written on it.