How to set up trad climbing belay using the rope. 

Didn't have much else to do back then! Glad you liked it :)

My pleasure!

Very kind!

No problem!

Hi Scott, glad they're of use!

Cheers bud!

Haha, I'll have to think up some others!

Cheers!

Cheers! Half ropes have made it on to the list!

Agreed, it really is the fastest 2-handed method I've seen regardless of being barehanded or gloved. Cheers!

Quite possibly! Give us a shout if there’s anything particularly you’d like to see.

Haven't got the book to hand and not sure what the latest addition has but clove hitches are the "normal" way to do it. Quick to adjust being the main reason. Of course we need to watch the angle to make sure we don't 3 way load the krab, and we should probably only put two CH's in to a krab (depending on rope diameter). I will sometimes use a figure of 8 when bringing a 3rd piece back, it's an old fashioned method which is harder to adjust, but can work well.

Thanks v much for the reply 👍

One way is to put the clove hitch into your carabiner while you are close to the anchor, then adjust it to loosen as you approach the edge. Doing this slowly means you are attached and safe as you approach the edge. So don't go back to the edge and then put the clove hitch in; clove hitch first, away from edge, then extend the slack to approach the edge. I hope that makes some kind of sense. #not_an_instructor

Cheers! Depends a bit on the situation but be aware if you fix yourself in to in reach anchors first you might not be able to reach the out of reach ones. When I get to a belay whatever gear I get first I’ll normally clip my rope into, just free running, to give me some protection whilst sorting the rest.

Glad you like 'em! Depends a bit on the situation, but sometimes they may need to replicate the belay with fresh crabs on the same gear. If it's on a big ledge, the quicker option may be to tie off the belay plate.

@@JBMountainSkills Thank you!

Slings all the way for block leading if at all possible! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-J_1x9oDbeh0.html

Cheers Alex! Good question! Depends a bit on the terrain... If it's at all spicy or there's no obvious easily reachable gear, I'll clip part of the belay by default.

Good question! If the leader is going to lead the next pitch as well, it's much easier to set up with a sling if possible. If it isn't, then the second needs to rig up their own belay, keeping their ropes underneath the leaders setup. Same anchors, but separate krabs. Hope that helps! I'll copy and paste this on the other vid too, might be useful for someone else :)

I'd only do it if appropriate, so I might choose a different way. That said, I can clove hitch one handed, so it shouldn't be too hard.

Steven Miller on the rope loop formed by tying in

At least! Thanks very much :)

Video about it here :) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-rpiPEsyKJ08.html

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JzewtTpzg_M.html check out that video 👊

JB Mountain Skills Thanks JB. This was very helpful. I really like your videos. Minimalist with variations and extremely safe.

As with so many things, it depends! Sometimes the rope is the best option, sometimes slings etc. Re. Escaping the system, yep, right faff! But in over 20 years of climbing I’ve only ever needed to escape the system for real once.

My pleasure! It's an absolutely valid point of course. In my experience though it very rarely seems to be an issue.

@@JBMountainSkills thanks for the reply. The books dates back to 1993 when, correct me if I am wrong, cams stems were stiffer and were holding basically on just one direction of pull. With bending stems that problem is way reduced. My understanding is that if I would create an anchor of just passive pros (nuts, hex or tricams) then I would need a piece to prevent upward pull which could pull up the pros. If I use a modern cam with bendable stem, the issue way lower. Right?

Just my style I’m afraid George!

Don't change a thing Jez, not a thing yours are the most watchable vids on YT for me ,in no small part to your connection to your viewers.( and that is not a critism of anyone else, sorry George)