It's been brought to my attention that I used the incorrect clamping technique with the lever in the demonstration. Sorry about that. the correct technique is as follows: PUSH HANDLE FLAT / FLUSH ON TABLE. place stock on jig; slide rear slider against stock; while holding this slider, RAISE THE HANDLE 2 AUDIBLE CLICKS; then push handle flush down on table again. This gives the correct tension and once set makes re-tensioning for multiple pieces of this same size stock automatic.
Was wondering if you knew that or not, and you showed me that you are aware of the correct clamping procedure! Thanks for that clarification, for me and for others! Great tutorial, brother!
Thank you!! I was trying to use the 2x4 hole jig for adding nailers to my framing so I could drywall... never used it before but cant swing a hammer to toenail & have no room to screw into the sides & no matter what I do I split the 2x4. Just needed to know how to use it & am dyslexic so reading the instructions is difficulty for me. THANK YOU!!! got it!
Great video. The only thing I would say is that you should turn your pieces around that have the pocket holes drilled in them. The screws should always be screwing towards the meaty part of the piece of wood you are attaching to, and not towards the end grain. That makes an even stronger connection and will keep any tear out from happening over time. Unfortunately that usually means the hole is always exposed to the outside and will need to be filled on most projects. Very strong though.
@@freebornjohn2687 unfortunately it often does mean they are visible. In that case you’d want to plug the pocket hole. I suppose if you don’t need the most strength on a piece then you can hide the holes on the back side / underside; but for chairs and such supporting weight I’d opt for more strength and then just hide the hole with a plug.
Just ANOTHER demo where the correct procedure for clamping the stock is incorrect. According to KREG :- PUSH HANDLE FLAT / FLUSH ON TABLE. place stock on jig; slide rear slider against stock; while holding this slider, RAISE THE HANDLE 2 AUDIBLE CLICKS; then push handle flush down on table again. This gives the correct tension and once set makes retensioning for multiple pieces of this same size stock automatic. To be repeated for each different stock thickness.
Here's a couple tips for you, and for someone new to this... First, at 8:10 the method you are showing us to adjust the clamp for material thickness, is wrong. You don't just slide it forward to "get it close"...you need to read the directions for using your tool, to learn the proper way to adjust it, because you are not doing it right in this video. And if you're working with plywood, always remember to back off on the depth setting a bit, or your screws might go through the material when you fasten them. For example, the 3/4" collar setting on the bit is meant for drilling actual 3/4" thick boards etc, not 3/4" plywood, because plywood is thinner than that. It's always best to do a test run on some scrap to ensure everything is set correctly, before drilling your actual project holes. Also, on the HD Jig at 14:58 when you attach the flat clamp to the jig, you can do it your way and keep having the jig fall off the clamp every time you unclamp it, or...if you simply slide the wider pad in the opening from the end and then attach the retaining block/end stop afterward, the inside grooves will overlap the outer edges of the larger pad, and the clamp will stay as one w/the tool when you unclamp it. It's much easier to work with if you do it this way, and it works the same with the R-3 Jig. These are all wonderful tools and work beautifully, but you have to set them up correctly, and remember to adjust for minute differences in thickness of materials. I'm just saying all this because the video description says "This video is intended to serve as a how-to guide for those new to woodworking or pocket-hole joinery." But proper setup and use of tools is essential to getting the most out of them, so hopefully these easy tips will help someone new to using these tools. The biggest tip I can give anybody is to always read the directions for the tool, especially if you're not familiar with them, or absolutely sure about how to operate it, adjust it, or set it up.
@@korlimservices4180 Why are you giving me crap about my comment? His video description clearly says "This video is intended to serve as a how-to guide for those new to woodworking or pocket-hole joinery." But the method he shows for setting the material thickness clamp is wrong, so he either did not read the directions for doing this, or he did not understand them...bottom line, he's teaching newbies the wrong way, on this supposed 'How To' video. I'm not claiming to be a 'Know It All' and I never intended for it to sound that way if it did, nor did I intend my comment to be hurtful or disrespectful to him in any way...I just let him know that he's doing it wrong, that there's a better way, and that the directions would show him that. I own the K-5 jig, the HD jig, and the R-3 jig and use them all the time, so I do know what I'm talking about. I'm guessing you probably don't own these tools and you probably haven't used them either, or you'd know that everything I said above, was true. I was simply giving a couple of tips to try to be helpful to anyone wanting to learn, to prevent them from making some of the mistakes I made when I was learning this, and to prevent them from learning the wrong way. But I digress, and I'm not here to argue. Please feel free to do it any way you want... his way, or the right way according to the manufacturer's written directions in the owner's manual, that clearly shows the correct way. I'm not going to make a video to show you how to do something that you can learn, simply by reading and following the instructions. Have a great day.
@@MnktoDave your right !! And my suggestion was...would be " Great " if you did a Video with the right methods as placed in the directions. How is that crap ? just see it as constructive criticism . I appreciate you telling us that the methods he mentioned are not the right ones... ! Have a great day you too.
@@korlimservices4180 Sorry that I misinterpreted/misunderstood the tone of your comment. I guess it sounded a bit facetious to me because you quotated the word "Great" and then capitalized TIPS & Demo, while asking me to make a video showing how to do it properly... usually when someone says something like that on the internet, they are trolling or being smart ass and calling you out due to what you said. Glad to see it's my bad in this case, and sorry about that. Thanks for responding back in a civil way and making that clear, and it shows just how easily things can be misinterpreted in a comment. There have been a few times I've thought about making a video about using these Kreg jigs (misc tips and setup etc) but there are already so many out there... I do have a few tips I've never seen in any of these videos so far, so maybe some day. But up to now, my videos are all mostly whitewater paddling oriented, for my friends. Like most people watching these videos, I enjoy woodworking as a hobby and I'm always trying to learn new and better methods...that's why I'm here, and that's why I spoke up, in my original comment. Hope you'll have a great day, and a Happy New Year.
I enjoyed your video, but did anyone else question the clamping technique? I believe the handle is supposed to be in the horizontal position as part of the process for clamping. Snug it up, lift up the handle until you hear two clicks, then tighten it down. Pardon me if others have noticed....nice video, though.
Thanks for your DETAILED video. I'm new to wood working and maybe making and selling small furniture. I'm thinking out of all Pocket hole jigs this would be the most reliable and correct for me. Could you give me your expert opinion? Thanks, Robert
This is basically the standard when it comes to pocket hole jigs. You can’t go wrong with it. There are simpler and more complex versions but this is the most versatile in my opinion. Go for it.
8:10 the lever must be down if you close the gap. then you have to hold the clamp in place and go 2 clicks up with the lever. that's it. there are also videos from Kreg available that showing this procedure (e.g.: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-OZ6Gd72vn4w.html )
Thanks for stopping by my channel. If you like what you saw, there's more! Hit that subscribe button! Here is another project I am particular proud of, my first batch of hardwood cutting boards: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BS08Psj-OXI.html
This was absolutely the best and clearest explanation of the Kreg systems on RU-vid. You answered many questions I have been left with after watching all the other videos. Thank you.
i was just watching this to see your methods. I have Kreg jigs that are different ages so they have very different methods of adjusting and selecting. A great system.
Drive through the joint not into the joint by turning your pocket hole side of the board to the outside. This is how Kreg designed it to be used or your joints will be much weaker! Hope I’m being clear! Thanks for the video!
Yes, I think it would be fine. I would do some tests on scrap would and make sure you have an idea of how far to keep pushing the screw to get a good bite into the other piece of wood. Thanks for watching!
As long as you can keep driving the screw a sufficient distance into the wood, it should be fine. Yes the course thread screws are for softwood like cedar.
Very comprehensive video and I like the new flannel. I need to get some more myself. I've never had the opportunity to use the Kreg system, but it looks like it makes things so much easier. I have made my own pocket holes before I knew this system existed based on joinery I saw on old tables and chairs. Maybe one day I will spring for a pocket hole jig.
One other question, does the Kreg system use square (aka Robertson) screws? If so, that's awesome because they are a Canadian invention :) (gotta represent my country)
