A guide to filing, along with a few tips on how to make your chain rip. An introduction to: drive links, cutters, rakers, depth gauges, chain pitch, round files, angles and tools. Shown by Femalelumberjack on the STIHL ms 261 c
All that knowledge and presented in a foreign language! Very impressive and very well done! You taught me a couple of things and I've been running saws for 51 years.
In filing a full chisel chain I learned the importance of keeping the leading point of the cutter needle sharp. When it starts to round inward it has lost its edge. It doesn't matter how sharp the cutter face is if that point is not there. If it gets really bad it is nearly imposable to get back because you want to quit filing before it is truly sharp. I often give it a couple strokes after each tank of gas just to keep it. Dirt in the bark is the biggest culprit. Good advise. Good video. Good job.
Thanks so much for a great video. Very well explained.You know I've been cutting wood for 35 years and still learn something new everyday.Thanks again and I hope all is well
Helping keep saws happy and healthy the world round!! Nice work Felixia. The new oversized chain to easily communicate an otherwise tedious and vague process is genius. A few of my guys will be watching this tomorrow because for me, I do not have the time or patience to teach some of these very important procedures that are paramount to any successful industry professional. The passion, respect and knowledge that you convey on your channel is very much appreciated. Keep up the hard work! 😉
Coloring the cutting surfaces on the chain cutters is an excellent idea! I've struggled with determining visually if a cutter is properly sharpened during the filing process, due to the small size of the cutting surfaces, & poor light on the cutting surfaces (even sunlight doesn't illuminate the surfaces very well, as the chain cutter top plate "shelters" the cutting surfaces from sunlight), so it is difficult for me to see these critical areas of the chain cutters. I'll try coloring the chain cutting surfaces next time. Great idea!
Doesn't matter how many strokes you take on each cutter, what matters is the proper adjustment filing of the rakers after you get all the cutters sharp. Bucking Billy Ray proves that in one of his sharpening videos.
Some raker gouges use other cutters near the raker you are filing. A more accurate way of adjusting the raker associated with the cutter you are filing is to use the Husky raker adjusting tool that only uses the cutter you are adjusting the raker for. Otherwise you may have to keep all the cutters the same length so you can use the tool that uses the other nearby cutters for adjusting the raker.
@@1d1hamby Agreed! Carlton years back made a similar gauge as the Husky and the saw shops would throw one in for free when buying Carlton chain. The raker is also ramped when viewed from the side the gauge she is using that sits flat on the chain files the raker flat instead of being ramped.
Nice video, there is a green link on the Stihl chain that helps keeping track if you start filing there. Also I adjust the depth gauges depending on if I’m cutting soft or hard wood. Too much off in the hard wood makes it chatter and vibrate sometimes. Keep up the good work.
I'm new to using a chainsaw and bought the 2 in 1 sharpening tool when I got my Stihl. I've only used it to sharpen both at home and in the field. Takes 10 minutes or less and cuts like new! Great tool for us newbies
A great instructional videp, thank you. Just had this happen, because my rakers / depth gages had to be re-profiled: After using the 2-in-1 sharpener a few times, I could no longer bore cut; the bar would jump out of the kerf. The rakers had become flat on top, and I had to round them off to the original profile. Now, it bore cuts like new.
I am impressed with your 2nd language abilities. I have struggled to use German, so know the second language (and English has many oddities) can be tough. You do a good job.
Chain manufacturers love you to find the shortest cutter.... then file all cutting teeth to that length....However in practice that is not necessary. Try just fixing that cutter...you’ll see... Great presentation! Chain sharpening is a great topic, especially for folks that “live by the saw”. Many forget to address chain maintenance: for instance-did you pinch the chain at some point... is it bend now(?), which may effect how it runs in the bar. Or how worn is the bar, effecting how the chain will cut, no matter how great you sharpened it...love your professional demeanor! Have a great week!
I have finally switched to using the new Stihl file aggregate with handle for both rider and chisel after using freehand filing since about 1975. I think it gives a suitable chain aggression to an old man and is also the absolut fastest way and sharpen the chain on. Better late than never. Happy New Year 2021.
Especially on longer bars I use Stihl FG3 filing tool. Filed free hand for years, but never get as consistent results as with the FG3 and that really shows on cutting performance!👍😎 Greetings from Finland.🇫🇮🌲
@@jimhofoss9982 It is not possible to rotate the file during filing, like turning your wrist but it is easy to rotate it between every tooth. Damn, that was some bad English!😣🤦 Hope you get the point?
I love the 2in1. I'm not a pro by any means but my job requires me to cut a lot of downed wood. I struggled for years getting anything close to out of the box sharp with various sharpening devices. 2in1 has changed my life lol.
Hi Felixia. I think that this is more of a manufacturer recommended filing process. Red Man here, is recommending Buckin Billy Ray. What Buckin would say, besides Be Kind, would be to have the experience for yourself. There are several sharpening myths out there, like maintaining the cutter length all the same and taking the same number of strokes. Buckin has done many videos on the subject of sharpening, and some where he’ll do what seems to be crazy things like filing all the teeth on one side short, while the other side are long. What I’ve learned from watching his fun antics, is that what really matters is this: The size of each cutter doesn’t matter, as long as you have filed its depth gage / raker accordingly. You also need to maintain the original profile of the side plate, the ‘C’ aka “Get the Gullet”. So, it boils down to this. Get the gullet, make the tooth sharp, don’t forget your working corner, and hit your rakers with a raker gauge. It’s really just that simple. There are also other things like flipping the bar for even wear, and dressing it up every now and then. When you think about it, it’s a lot of work to keep the cutters all at the same length. Just hit a nail, or a rock, and there go several cutting teeth. That’s really what the raker gauge is for, all you need to do is get them back in shape, and reset that depth of cut with the gauge. Please go watch some of his sharpening videos. I promise you’ll find them very knowledgeable and informative.
Love bbrs videos, a condensed compilation of the pertinent filing points he makes from dozens of hour long videos would be a great tool to show new guys, if anyone is able/keen?!
Not a chainsaw guy, but as a woodworker I disagree. Changing the geometry of the chain & cutters will absolutely change how it cuts and handles. If you were like me, you might not be aware of the difference, but it will be there. If you know what you’re doing, it may be the way you want to cut for some reason (more or less aggressive, more speed or less chatter, etc.) I think most people are better off with a consistent profile, as designed. Not everyone, just most people.
Some info you have shared was great! There was some information that was leaving me with the feeling of confusion. Now there is a very small handful of people who have put out great how to sharpen videos. It is no easy task to take on. I'll give you that. I like the enlarged chain for teaching. I have not seen that before, well done on that new way to demonstrate. Sharpening takes much practice to master. There are many that believe it's something that can not be taught on a video but must be passed down by mentors. There are masters of filing that can teach this ART. There are people that are not.
A thorough and superb demonstration of the components of the chain (absolutely loved the larger than life chain for learning) and how to maintain its longevity. Only just stumbled across your channel, love your content and subscribed👌 Keep up the good work 👍🏻
I always heard about the Stihl 2 in 1 file, but you were the first to explain that it sharpens the tooth and raker at the same time. Another thing that is important is if you are running Stihl Rapid Super full chisel chain is you have to have all of the points there and sharp. I had problems with saws cutting crooked and some of the tips were damaged, or not sharpened enough. If you are not afraid to touch them they are not sharp enough. 😂
This I see a great tutorial well explained with the help of the large chain models. I feel a lot more confident in my sharpening abilities now. Thank you.
That was a fairly good explanation of how to sharpen your saw. One thing you left out is if you are going to give each tooth the same amount of strokes. You should always start sharpening the dullest side first. That way you know how many extra strokes to take after the less dull side is sharp. Take care and stay safe my friend!!😀😀 Logger Al
The relationship between the tooth and raker is most important imho... IF a guy or gal hits metal or rock etc and takes out a few teeth then sharpen those teeth and set each raker to each tooth ... Will the chain be as SMOOTH as each cutter the same length (ie ground chain) ? No. But in the field situation it works ... Hand filing is great however after a few hand sharpenings a trip to the grinder will restore geometry with great precision. Filing plates, 2 in 1 and the magnetic guide used in this video are great to “touch-up” a chain and restore a very sharp edge and you can get many sharpenings if you file just as the chain begins to dull ... Very few humans (I wood say 1 in 10000) can “outsharpen” a machine by hand 👍
@@fabzacres-blackcat I've been sharpening my own chains free hand and have been a professional logger for over 40years. I have never once had my chainsaw chains machine sharpened. Granted I was by no means perfect at it the first couple years. But there isn't a chain grinding machine out there that can do a better job sharpening than I can with a round file filing free hand. I refuse to put a chain fresh out of the box and cut with it without sharpening it. ( so according to you I must be one of those 1 in 10,000 people)
@@milanilic7325 :) I agree. She is the one that said that you need to make the same amount of strokes not me. But if that's how she wants to sharpen and starts on the side that isn't as dull. When she goes to the other side and use the same amount of strokes. That side won't be sharp. I do believe in sharpening every tooth until it is sharp no matter how many strokes it takes.
@@aldredske6197 Al ... If you have had 40 yrs logging and filing by hand only everyday that’s a lot of time to get muscle memory / technique dialed in , as compared to a guy / gal who is a firewood cutter / tree service / arborist who may not be using the saw 40hrs + a week ... maybe compare to playing an instrument - more practice , better results . That being said , you wood be amazed at the number of arborist who cannot sharpen a chain worth squat ... For these 9999 out of 10000 folk a “trueing” to restore the geometry precisely to .0005 or better may be fortuitous for them after a few touch-ups. In fact if we are talking sqr/sqr chain as opposed to the sqr/rnd featured in FL’s video most guys/gals own a silvey or simington grinder to do these chains although , again , there are exceptional square file hand sharpeners out there that can equal or exceed - I’m not one of them 😀
Using the combination file (that does the teeth and the rakers together) I feel that the tool is calibrated to take slightly too much off the rakers so the blade is more aggressive than it should be. And as I mentioned yesterday, you are smart and adorable. (smile!)
Many thanks for a splendid presentation: QUESTION; The instructions for SOME chains recommend not holding the file perpendicular to the guide bar; a 5° approach is suggested (I guess that has to do with the angle of the cutting tooth's top plate). Do you think I should follow those instructions ? I usually do what you do, (90° to the bar, at a 30° angle) You have given me much great information. Many thanks again.
Man, did I Learn Something, Absolutely YES ‼‼‼ Great Info there Beautiful, I even went to my Garage and retrieved one of my Spare Chains to find the Number on the Drive Link and Cutter. I may have been using the WRONG FILE😠😠😠. Yepper I was Wrong All these Years , H80 Chain 25 degrees Angle , 7/32" or 5,5 mm File, instead of 30 degrees and 5/32 File I been using. Normally I have them Professionally Sharpened, This ONE Reason I watch you Videos, To Learn from the PROFESSIONAL who do this for a Living👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾‼‼‼ The Other reason is your Extreme Beauty and that Accent which I Love to HERE. Thank You and Keep Us Wanna Be Lumberjacks Informed. Much Love❤, Always Stay Safe and Blessed🙏🏾 ❣❣❣ ❤❤❤ The Visuals Samples ‼‼‼
Don’t wanna bust your bubble or sound as if I’m any better but if your chain is sharp and rakers are even you can have teeth to the replacement line and teeth that are full length and it will cut no different than teeth all at same length! But you do explain well and I have nothing but respect... chest bump salute!! Keep on keeping on!! I’m sure your an inspiration to all the other females out there.... I’d go buckin with you anytime!!
G'day FLJ, very informative thank you , I find that most people have a dominant hand which is able to sharpen one side more easily than the other to compensate for that I like to give a couple of more strokes on the non dominant side. Looks cold outside there stay safe and I hope you have a merry Christmas 👍🇦🇺.
Great video Felixia one of the best I've seen, very thorough and professional! Knew you were one tough lady but dang girl what kind of saw are you running that giant chain on! Lol! Keep up the great work the treeple love the job you're doing 👍👍💪💪😁❤️!
I have watched several of your videos, and for some reason, never subscribed. That was not a good decision on my part lol! Just hit the subscribed button now. you are an excellent instructor! Thank you for the good information. 💪👍🪓
Really nice explanation and all in detail,we all can learn so many things from you,I subscribed to see more off your videos.Thanks Felixia,stay safe :)
I always roll the file during the forward sharpening stroke. 👍🏻 Also if your starting out and have time, use calipers to get your tooth the same size until you get an eye for it.
After sawing the chain often stretches when it gets hot Don't tighten it because as it cools down it goes back to normal and puts pressure on the bar and sprocket adjust if too loose but usually adjust before next use. Happy sawing
When I am explaining how to sharpen a saw, I use a blade of grass to point out the various parts..A Sharp blade should feel like a cats claw on your finger...
It's a good thing to mention the number on the link. I didn't know what it kind of information it was. Is the number code also on Oregon and Husqvarna chains?
I like a really aggressive hook on my chains so I file the gullet out a little extra but and I also hit my rakers down a little more but I also do not run any stock saws there all modified for performance because having a loud saw is not a problem where I live and man do they cut for example I have an 372 XP that will run circles around a stock 500 I and it's pulling a 28 inch bar
You suggested leaving the hook on the tooth so that it can grab the fibers in protection chaps or pants, does it serve any other purpose? What if the chain doesn't have the hook anymore? Does it cut more aggressively...such as a skip tooth?
Am new at sharpening my chainsaw it seems like it doesn’t last long, I tried to watch your video, an got really confused, how many strokes should I do to keep my chain sharp
I have an electric bench grinder manufactured by Oregon. I can’t find the specs for my Stihl chain in the manual. Basically the manual gives settings for the Oregon replacement chains, and they do not make replacement chains for Stihl. At least I can’t find any near me. Have you used a bench grinder and what settings do you use for the Stihl chains?
+Femalelumberjack Hi Felixia, Is the file suppose to slowly turn during filing or fixed so it does not rotate? Ours has 1 rotating and the other side doesn't. I think it has to do with the spiral cut on the file cut only contacts on an angle in sharpening on one side causing it to turn and perpendicular from other side so can't rotate turn. but that does my head in.
I used these toys and many more with average to decent results, now I have a commercial oregon grinder and there is no comparison - my chains are now at least as sharp as new every time - will never go back.
sure the grinders work....but a new file in the hands of an experienced sawman is fine, and much quicker than setting up the grinder every time. bottom line, if your saw isn’t sharp, don’t even start it.
Electric sharpeners are a great tool, but it's good to have the basics down. Plus in the field, I rather touch up with a file, than swapping chains, especially doing dirty wood on the ground.
@@tangydiesel1886 yah, hate cutting thru dirty bark on logs. If I HAVE to, I will plunge cut on the cleanest part, and let the chain pull the chips past the dirty part on the bottom of the bar. never pull the mud thru the cut....or you’re filing again. dull chainsaw exhausting, sharp chainsaw joyous. cheers!