Great video. At last someone who thinks like I do. A "working edge" vs a "sharp edge". I put a working edge on my brush knives, axes, etc. and a sharp edge on my pocket knives and filet knives.
thanks!! and that is one of the things about being a knifemaker that I love the most! hearing that my knives are out there being used and put to good work!
And I thought I was being too aggressive with 15-20 strokes on a 600# diamond sharpener! Thanks for providing some insight on the right way to do this!
+Rob G glad you liked it! one thing to keep in mind, is that this is the way that I like to sharpen most, with the grit that I like the best. Cliff below, enjoys using a burrless method, and that works well for him. so there are several right ways to sharpen anything, this is just the way I like do it most often.
Nice straight forward process to follow. I especially liked the comments on the practicality of a quick coarse edge if you're actually working...big difference between doing work with knives and using them becuase you enjoy them. The Carter neck knife looks great too...looks like you have a pretty high grind on that thin stock too...should cut really well even if dull like you said.
Thanks man! I have done about 15 of those so far, with different height grinds to see where I want them to be. and I am starting to lean towards a full height flat grind, down to .010-.015" range. that 1/16" 1095 is plenty strong enough for that grind in a light utility knife package.
unless there is significant edge damage that needs worked out, or you are really laying the edge back then sure, you can get by nicely with just one stone and the coarse diamond stones are a great choice. if you have very dull or damaged knives that need a more aggressive stone, then the combination Norton crystolon coarse/fine is a tough one to beat for more versatility. if you are shaving your face or doing fine woodcarving and need a polished edge, then a king 1/6k Waterstone is a great choice
Jou yust gawe me push too try hand sharpening my Osborn 940 and itd good . And in Croatia 10$is sharpening and i realy didnt think almost send knife to a pro-sharpener and in life of blade i will send it 10times that is 100$ and for 25 $ Benchmade will gawe mee neve blade. And with DC4 Falkiven in 15 minuta im sharpend my knife and strop it on leder and it is sharp wery sharp. Thanks on push. Thanks allot.
Can you show a comparison of cutting through that tough thick rope with a fine fine finely honed edge vs your more coarse preferred edge? A nice visual aid like that would be wondrous. Thanks.
I can put that on my video "to do list". for a quick explanation, think of it like teeth on a hacksaw, vs a pair of scissors. saws cut by having a certain number of teeth, and with a stroke of the saw, each tooth cuts a certain amount. which is why you usually use a lower number of teeth per inch on softer materials, and a higher number on harder ones. try cutting a 2x4 with a 24 tpi blade and you will wear you arm out trying to cut that wood. or the other way would be trying to cut a piece of steel with a 8 tpi blade and you will just dull the blade and not cut the steel. now a very polished edge will have so little aggression that you will need to use it more like a shear, or a pair of scissors, and shear the material vs cut it on a stroke like a saw. the force will go way way up since you are shearing it all at once instead of letting the teeth each take tiny bites. now what you are cutting, and how you are cutting it has a lot to do with what sort of edge will work best. most folks use scissors for paper, and hacksaws for metal. for me, I like a polished edge for shaving my face {but I usually use one of the mach something or other razors for that}, and a coarse edge for most everything else. some folks like polished edges on chefs knives for chopping {or shearing} their food with a push cut, whereas I cut almost everything on a draw {either forwards or backwards like using a saw}.
Nice vid! Did you ever do any testing with burr vs burrless sharpening to the point of blunting? Also in cutting rope you use pull cutting mostly with corse edges? with polished edges you have to use push cutting motion?
thanks! no, I have never spent a day trying out the burrless sharpening methods that I have heard about. I recently got one of the veho 400 microscopes, and am planning on spending a day with it and a few stones just to have some fun, but have not gotten to it yet and I will try to remember to do that then. yes, I mostly cut on a draw. not just in the shop but also in work. which could be why I like the coarser edge so much. I hardly ever polish an edge, but in my mind, the higher the grit finish, the more of a shearing affect that you get with an edge, vs a cutting affect so the more force you would need.
