This video covers in detail the dis-assembly and sharpening of a Scott's 20 inch classic reel mower. The same general procedures will apply to many other brands of reel mower.
Just picked up one of these bad boys off someone's trash pile. We have really terrible air quality here in salt lake city and there's a lot of talk about how to remedy it but no one talks about how little smog these things produce! Not to mention the added benefit of getting a little bit of exercise, which most Americans could use anyway. Thanks for posting! Very helpful.
i really hope these quiet and green mowers make a comeback in my neighborhood, i recently bought one and its been great, i get some exercise without all the noise and pollution, i can have earbuds in while i mow now and i dont have to worry about flinging rocks and other debris across the yard. thanks for sharing this video, a much easier process than i was expecting!
I agree with you, I converted to using a Scott's reel mower this season. It's made a huge difference in the health of my yard. I haven't had to buy gas for mowing either.
What might be interesting is hacking a treadmill motor (or even a portable drill) onto a push mower, driving it at the main wheels via contact roller, or at the height adjustment bar with the rollers/wheels there being replaced with aerating spikes or similar -- anything for traction's sake.
We got one this past summer and our grass looked the best it has since we laid the sod. It was way more green and lush all summer. And I love the noise reduction. It is a wonderful tool.
Works great! ru-vid.comUgkxprGGPRQoChQaA8u58dt7miEpxQBKiWeJ More difficult with longer grass, though, but I was expecting that. I have a small back yard, it seemed like overkill to buy a lawnmower with an engine. This is easy to carry in and out of the basement through the bulkhead. Very sharp (be careful). At the back of the mower are little wheels, which I use when pulling the mower backwards, so it's easy to readjust direction. I'm including a photo which shows the before and after for my lawn when it was at its longest. For long grass like that you really have to put some muscle into it, and I needed to go into a new section of grass with some momentum, but when the grass is only an inch or two higher than regular cut height it's quite easy. The lawn is still patchy and full of weeds, but at least it's a good height! A step in the right direction.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I got a 16" Scott's Reel Mower from my deceased brother's estate. My wife and I were at wits end today when it wasn't cutting the grass! I watched this video of yours and will try tightening the gap between the blade and green bar tomorrow! This is a life-saver education too! To know that I do NOT have to take this reel mower to a shop to sharpen the blades!!! I can do it MYSELF! I also found the EXACT same blade sharpening kit you have in the video at Home Depot!!! If worse comes to worst, buy the kit and sharpen the blades!!! Too, thank you for the 11/16 " drill bit option! That will save tons of muscle rub I would have to use the next day!!! PLEASE keep these videos coming!!!
Awesome! I've been avoiding sharpening my mower because I expected to need special equipment for it or to pay someone else to do it. This looks very doable!
This is too funny. I just purchased a used mower on ebay because I lost pieces to my first one.I didn't remember watching or writing comments, but I decided to watch a sharpening video and I always read a few comments. And I responded a year ago to your comment. "Ironic"
All that is needed is the abrasive; go to hardware or auto part store to buy silicon carbide paste or valve grinding compound. Exchange left/right pinion gears, look at the pin on the shaft: one side is sharp, the other side is rounded, reverse the sides also. Put the wheels back and push the mower backward.
Good video, thanks for taking the time. One trip to the auto store for grinding compound, a little elbow grease, and my reel mower is back in business.
Sweeet video. I started to think I was in way over my head (I still might be!) trying to do this, but after watching you do it, I certainly stand a better chance. Thanks!
Your tutorial is clear and thorough. I feel as though this is manageable for me after only one viewing! Other instructions I have found left me feeling a bit nervous about trying, but not yours!
Thanks so much for this! I have the exact same mower, and it told me exactly what I needed to know. I had trouble getting my e-clip back on with just the screwdriver. Finally I tried the screwdriver with a gentle bop from a mallet, and it snapped right on.
Good video. On my mower (1950's era) you can take off both wheels and swap over the gear mechanism between left and right and reassemble. Now you can push it along on a flat surface so the blade turns in reverse for sharpening with grinding paste. Saves buying a kit and having to turn by hand, but clearly needs a bit more disassembly ....but its another option. Thanks again
That's great info!! Mine is similar, an older craftsman with bolt on, adjustable wheels and reversing them makes perfect sense!. I saw a video on that method but he just said "make it so it goes in reverse " so i wasn't sure how because it was a different model.
I was reading through the instruction manual for the Scotts mower in this vid and they have a short guide on how to do just what you described. Concepts haven't changed much in 70 years! The details are on page 6 of this PDF: almgscapp.azurewebsites.net/Manual/View/2010-20SG It also specifies a lapping compound of 100-240 grit for anyone out there who doesn't want to buy a special sharpening kit :)
Sharpening the cutting blades When the mower is properly lubricated and adjusted, sharpening should not be necessary for several years. However, the following steps will allow you to do the procedure yourself at relatively little expense. • Remove the "E" rings, wheels and pinion f r o m both sides of the mower (refer to figure 6). • Remove both pawls from the rectangular slots in reel shaft and reverse their positions (refer to figure 7). • Reverse the placement of the pinion gears. • Place the left pinion on the reel shaft. Replace the wheels and "E" rings. • Spread a thin layer of lapping compound on the front edge of the reel blades. • Adjust the cutter bar blade so it has light but firm contact with the reel blades across the full width of the cutter bar (refer to figure 8). CAUTION:Do not overtighten the adjusting screws, as this could damage the cutter bar. Both screws must be tight on the final adjust- ment. • Push the mower backward on a smooth sur- face (such as a sidewalk or paved driveway). Continue to do this until the reel blades rotate relatively free and front edge of the cutter bar blades are polished. • Remove wheels;reverse pinions and pawl is on the right.CAUTION:Clean any grinding compound or debris from the cutter bar blades, reel blades, pinion and pawl.Lubricate axle and pinion with a light film of wheel bear- ing grease and replace wheels and "E" rings. NOTE:It is recommended to use an industrial or valve lapping compound between 100-240 grit.This is usually available at an industrial or automobile supply store. If professional sharp- ening is required, consult your local yellow pages for lawn mower repair services from scott's mower manual ...
Thanks for your detailed step by step guide here. I was able to use my 1/2 inch chuck corded drill directly attached to the mower's crankshaft. Did not run it eight minutes, more like 4 but with fast revolutions. Definitely much sharper! Just really noisy when pushing it and can't seem to adjust the edge so that it's both quieter and keeps cutting. Guess it'll stay loud but at least cut the grass well! Thanks again....great video.
i really appreciate this video, i got one of these so i can cut my grass at night when its not a million degrees without pissing off the neighbors and unfortunately it went dull after only a few months of use but now that i am armed with the know-how to make my mower great again thanks to you!
Love your video! Just bought my first reel mower today and I needed to sharpen it because I bought it in awesome Condition but blades aren't as sharp as I need, so your video is informative and I love your blade sharpening hack ( with the drill).
Just ordered that kit from Amazon as I need to sharpen my 20+ yr old Classic 20. Edges look pretty rough so I might need to lap longer than 10 minutes! Also picked up a grass catcher bag too!
That's awesome. I love these mowers, because they are quiet and gives me extra exercise, but I did not know how simple they are to sharpen. Thank you much. Kenny ps. my Plymouth voyager waterpump, timing belt went super easy due to your detailed video series.
I feel the same way. I like early morning mowing with some dew on the grass and maybe an IPOD. I'm glad you had success with that tough water pump job.
Reel mowers are more healthy for the grass as well because it cuts like scissors. The best weed prevention is a thriving lawn. You may notice fewer weeds like crabgrass if you use a reel mower.
Well done video. Just bought a house with a small yard and the previous owner left us a Craftsman mower like your Scott. I was so concerned with how we we're going to sharpen it. The only thing I will need is the compound. Thanks for such a detailed video.
Excellent video... really explains what to do very well step by step. In putting the E-ring back on the axle, would recommend needle-nosed pliers as opposed to the flat head screwdriver. Was not successful with the screwdriver but the pliers worked well. Dan
Thank you kind sir. Now I can "have at it" with my reel mower too. It's name brand is "American" with no doubt same construction. With all the woods around, I have dulling the blades after trying to pick up all the fallen twigs and branches.
An observation: at about 1 1/2 min. in, adjustment of the blade might be easier if the bolts holding the blade in position were loosened at both ends, adjustment made and bolts retightened. They're the horizontal bolts going through the main frame, adjuster screw bracket and threading into the blade frame.
Thank you my local hardware store didn't know what I was talking about but I went on Amazon and found the compound which was less than five dollars. I have everything else so I passed on the $35 kit but thank you thank you thank you
if all you can find is a 13 point or whatever 11/16 deep socket you can fold up a couple strips of cardboard about as wide as a popsicle stick and 2-3 times as thick-and put them inside socket pushed to one side…it will tighten things up just enough to work on your drill…it might slip a little but once you get going it’s fine. The only thing I bought was a tube of permatex valve grinding compound. Worked fine…very sharp. 👍. Scotts Pro 18” 7 blade…everything is the same mechanically…just 2” narrower with 2 more blades.
thank you so much! this may make my weekend a lot easier. do you know if home Depot sells that compound? and if so what am I looking for? im going to do the adjustment first because it seemed to give me a good cut last summer.
@@TheOriginalMechanic No it keeps the blades from wearing out faster and reduces the force needed to push the mower. You will notice after cutting your grass enough that the mower gets easier to push due to the blades losing contact with the lower blade.
The little piece you shouldn't loose in the drive shaft can be turned around. If you put the wheel back on you can spin it in reverse. much easier than hand cranking it.
I'm in Miami,FL right now so the grass never seems to stop growing lol..and it's the rainy season here now so, I'm expecting a jungle if I don't keep at it! So, can I ask, is the kit the best way to sharpen your blades? I've read that it is, but I've seen older folks use files,sharpening stones and the like... I'd love to hear your opinion (again) lol on what you believe is the best way. ;)
Yeah the kit is the way to go. Let's leave the hand sharpening (seems impossible on a reel mower) in the past. I envy your problem with lush grass this time of year!
Yes, as the cylindrical blades rotate, they contact the stationary blade at the bottom. The abrasive cutting paste that has been applied then sharpens the edge of the cutting surfaces of the rotating head.
Something I have noticed is that my Scott get's a little more difficult to push after each sharpening. I've used it for about eight years now and it's really hard to push after the last sharpening. I tried loosening the bottom blade a little but then it wouldn't cut the paper. I think there may be a point when it's just time for a new mower.
I don't have a Scott's mower but from experience I would guess that the bed knife may be a little worn. If the point of contact between the reel blades and the bed knife is too great you will need to tighten up the bed knife excessively to achieve a consistent cut. Is it possible to unscrew the bed knife and then either turn it over, file it down or even replace it? An alternative is to grind a chamfer on each of the reel blades so that only the first 1/32" of their width comes into contact with the bed knife. Obviously that takes a little time, but it's worth it as they cut so well after you have done this.
Long time ago but did you ever figure out what to do about this? I have exactly this issue after sharpening at 30-year old mower possibly for the first time.
@@alexbryant93 I ended up buying a Worx battery electric mower. I used both mowers for a while depending on my mood. I think the reel did eventually get easier to push but I have no room to store both mowers so just use the electric now.
I managed to follow your instructions to get my grandad's reel mower (scotts 5m9 from the 60's) sharpened. I was wondering though if it's necessary to lower the contact bar at 1:00 after the blades have been sharpened.
I have a Earthwise 16" manual reel mower and want to sharpen the blades with a backlapping kit. I don't want to use the crankbar because it's too manual and slow. I'd like to use my cordless drill but my drill chuck does not fit the axle bolt to turn it. Any suggestions??
I'm new to these I was given one from my aunt a scotts one it seems extremely dull the blades look rustee where they'd cut. Would this help? And I mean its cutting nothing. Also any idea where I could get better handles lol
I also need a new handle set, mine are rusting through the paint. Basically all of the reel mowers using this design are made by American Lawn Mower. They sell replacement parts here: americanlawnmower.com/reel-mower-parts
I would try soaking them in penitrant like WD40 or the popular PB Blaster. If that doesn't work try jarring them a bit with a hammer, or use an impact driver if you can get hold of one.
Hello, thanks for the video. I have the same mower and I'm about to get rid of it because everytime I use it it gets stuck and won't roll at random moments while using it. Its really infuriating. Do you know why this happens? It just locks up on me!!
Look how fancy you are getting that C-clip back on its post without cussing it screaming! Those things were made by Satan himself. Great video. Thanks.
The only thing about this mower.....I wish the bed knife was designed like pro mowers. It's a 90 degree angle rather than a flat introduction for the reel to come into. And there is no relief on the reel itself. How do I know this? Turf degree. So.....it is what it is. This mower jams frequently too with any instructions. Sorry...I should add I modified the mower to cut at 1/4 inch for the tee box on my property. I give this mower a 8 for it's class though. Thanks for reminding me how to back lap!
Are we supposed to reapply the lapping compound a bunch of times throughout the 8 minutes? The instructions don't mention this, but it seems like the compound gets pushed out of the way and does nothing after 10 seconds, let alone 8 minutes.
Yes you should reapply until it cuts paper all the way across...after you rinse it off adjust until you have light contact, cutting paper all the way across
Sorry I don't have that info. The compound came in an unmarked container in the kit. If you read the comments below, some viewers have offered advice on what to use for the compound.
Paul Ramirez no you don't readjust, because you are honing the blades and that will set the gap. If you adjust the blades back out they will be to far from the bar and won't cut properly.
