Just got one this weekend. Spend labor day weekend sharpening all my knives...except i didnt spent all weekend sharpen my knives as this thing took care of it all within an hour or 2. Worked great, time saver and simple to use. Would highly recommend.
@@masterxiong7368 i see thanks for the reply ,you see i cut at a industrial level and im not sure if this machine can help me out when on a regular bases i use my wet stone twice a day
@@generaltsao2616 the purple belts work great for keeping a blade honed, but it would depend on what you are cutting, im not a big fan of the micro convex edge for cutting meat, i prefer a very polished v edge at least for cutting fish and beef, the micro convex is great for cleavers though
I'm really pleased with this! It works like a charm ru-vid.comUgkxDcr-y2Pf6xdnrFHrSP7dl9kpKaCozcSQ Takes less time than my old electric sharpener because it can take more off the knife faster, and then it smooths out nicely with the finer grit polisher. I don't know how long it will last before the grit wears away, but I wouldn't mind having to replace it every once in a while.
I’d love to see a comparison of your different products using Edge on Up BESS scores for each sharpener. Use the same knife and keep a 20degree edge throughout.
I was thinking the same thing. Everybody does the "cuts paper" thing, a truly objective measurement would be really great. Also a 10X magnified view of the blades would be great. I especially would like to see a comparison between the motor driven belt sharpeners and sharpeners like the Precision Adjust. Lastly, a discussion of the pros and cons of the rounded edge of the belt sharpeners versus the flatter edge of Precision Adjust.
@@BryanTorok ProjectFarm has a video comparing different sharpeners, with BESS scores and all. Go check it out! Spoiler alert: the WorkSharp was in the top 3!
Thanks for the great instructional video. It never happened before but recently I broke 2 belts, with different grids while sharpening my pruners. I cannot figure out why the belt just broke off, like it was being cut by the tool, except that the tool is being sharpened at the angle set by the tool manufacturer. I can't see what would catch the belt to cut it off. Any help on this is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
To sharpen a meat cutting knife do I use 220 or the honing one when cutting meat do I just use the honing belt just to give my knife the edge that it need thanks
I have a 2 part question. 1) If the worksharp only has 2 blade degree settings. Witch one would i put it on for my Krishaw plain edge Leek knife or my Spyderco para 2 . 2) What blade degree do i need to set the worksharp. For my Swiss Army knife. Also do i only sharpen one side of the blade.. Thank You...
I'm curious how others edge lasts after sharpening with this sharpener. I've used pull through sharpeners before and they put an edge on quickly but it never seems to last and dulls again quickly. I upgraded to a Work Sharp Whetstone set and had great success sharpening my kitchen knives and the edge seemed to last quite awhile before requiring sharpening again. But I have a chronic bad back and the repetition of using the Whetstone aggravated my back. I wanted an easier solution and I received my Work Sharp Mk. 2 and sharpened my kitchen knives to great success, they were very sharp but the edge doesn't seem to last as long as the Whetstone. My main kitchen knife was quite dull to my surprise after about a week of normal use, cutting vegetables and such. I sharpened it again today with the Mk. 2 and it's razor sharp again so I'm curious how long the edge will last. I have a decent set of kitchen knives and as mentioned with the Whetstone the edge lasted much longer. What's other experience?
I just ordered a mk 2 today and I have some steak knifes I need to sharpen I am guessing they are done the same way as the serration on the pocket knife or is there a different way?
If you have a knife that is not at 20 degrees how do you go about the sharpening... what I did was with the coarse grit i sharpened on one side until I got a burr all the way down then I went to them other side and did the same until I got a burr the other way then did a couple of times on each side with the medium-grit____no burrs___ then went with the polishing belt. Is that right or if not how should it be done?
Newbie to knife collecting. I have about 30 different knives ranging in price from $30 - $800. Most are fding and a few fixed blades. What would be my best option? What would be the best option for a beginner? The precision elite stone, the km2, or the Ke Onion. I would only be sharpening folders, fixed blade, and the occasional kitchen knife. Thanks
For a collector that doesnt mind spending some time sharpening the Precision Adjust is hard to beat. If you are looking to quickly put an edge back on your knives then the KTS mk.2 or the Ken Onion are both great options. Then KO would give you more precision when it comes to grit selection and angle choices.
Question: how do you suppose to keep proper angle (and straight sharpened surface) if belt BENTED by the knife? (like it WRAPS around edge) In this case very last millimeter of the blade will be under very wide angle!
Hi Vincent - The flexible belt creates a convex edge. So the exact edge angle will not be 20 or 25 degrees. In fact it's very challenging to measure edge angle of a convex grind. Convex grinds are well know to provide a more durable edge that is less prone to roll and dull because the edge is thicker than a traditional V grind. On our sharpeners the belt deflection is factored in when we built the angle guides. Our actual angle varies slightly depending on the thickness of the blade but is close to 20 and 25 degrees.
@@WorkSharpOutdoor Yep, that's the point - convex! Meaning after belt you cannot use any apex-like sharpener - you'll be forced to recreate *straight* cutting edge. Second, "convex" itself doesn't provide any "more durable" edge - you simply cheat with "angles", providing a bit more wide edge (what you can do simply setting 30 degree!). If you sharp all your knives on the same MK.2 - it's OK.
There are only two options for each. High speed, which you only use for tools and Low speed for knives/scissors. For angles, you have 25° for outdoor knives and 20° for kitchen knives.
I just dont understand how to work it. I keep dulling my knives somehow and rounding out my tips. I don't know how to get a point on any of my knives with this thing.
Don't buy it, your better off using a wheat stone unless you want to ruin your knives (s) profile or edge. This is for a pro and they still have a problem, don't be fooled like I was. I've spent on upwards of $400 on belts and ruined a few expensive knives. Call me a dumb a , try it yourself and you'll do that yourself
Have you tried reaching out to our Customer Service team to see how we can help? We have an awesome support team at the ready. If you have gone through 40 sets of replacement belts already it sounds like you are getting lots of use out of the machine and maybe they can offer some tips to prevent the trouble you are having. They can be reached by sending an email to info@worksharptools.com
I own the original [ Ken onion edition] still works like a champ. And I use it weekly. I'm a cook @ mandalay bay so I put my knives thru alot and I need to sharpen alot. It's also given me a little side hustle. I sharpen my coworkers knife 🔪 for only $10 a knife. This tool has paid itself over and over fast easy and just awesome 👌. No need for a 2.0 for me. I'm a happy OG customer 😌 ☺️
My only problem is that there is a large jump in the grit between the medium and the fine. I wish there was an extra grit included between medium and 6000 grit.
Expecting to get one of these babies for Christmas. Can't wait to get to sharpening and thank you for demonstrating the different blade types! I have serrated knife, gut hook, thumb pegs, etc. This answered my questions before I even knew I had them.
Glad it helped! We have the best customer service team ready to help as well, don't hesitate to reach out if you have any questions. We are here to help!
My gosh! THANK YOU! For showing the proper form for using these sharpeners. I could not bare to watch another reviewer round off another knife tip. If they are going to show people how to use a product properly, maybe they should actually Read the Manual! before doing a novice review. Again Thank You!
What crap. Bought some stuff from Work Sharp, and the next week it was discontinued. And even worse, having something discontinued, but no longer where replacement belts were available. And from what experience i had with there stuff the belts use quickly became useless after a one knife or at most two, and replacement belts were only available fro WorkSharp.... So double the cost for replacements. But then again started getting strange streeks on the knife blade, so if you don't care if you knives get a streak along the blade say a half in up from the end of the blade...
Great knife sharpener, it definitely reduces the time to properly sharpen any knife or tool and puts a razor sharp edge on my hunting knives. Two thumbs up 👍🏻👍🏻
I just bought one and I am not getting good results. I do everything the way they demonstrate, and mine are not coming out sharp. Once I use a leather strop on them, then they are sharp. So I don't understand how it can sharpen when on one side, the belt is going down, and on the other the belt is going up. Also, making the blade ride along a plastic guide just seems like it would dull it every time you pulled it across it.
Such an old video but I'm hoping for some advice. The belt on my MK2 seems to cover only half or less of the roller on top. I can see it when sharpening. The forward part of the belt wile on the sharpener is not really being guided along the space avaliable on the roller. I'm wondering if this is okay, because I'm only using %50 to %30 of the force the belt guide gives. That makes it a little hard to stop at the tip of the blade. If I go past that halfway point of the belt, it will just roll off kinda uncontrolled messing up the tip of my knife. I know there is adjustment screw on the back of the machine, under the blade guides. What is this for? I might be over thinking it, but thought I'd ask to be sure. Just seems like there is allot mote belt to be tensioned to prevent the tip from going past that point to where there is little to no tension belt. This things works amazing otherwise. I know there is a learning curve too. Again, just wondering.
As a new buyer I had no idea what the difference was between the Mk. 2 and the Ken Onion Mk. 2 on Amazon. I didn’t see any comparisons on the page and I thought it was aesthetic. Man I wish I would’ve gotten the Ken Onion Mk. 2
Damn!!!!! I just used this thing for the first time on my EDC D2 steel pocket knife. Frickin’ game changer!!!! No more soaking my rocks for hours, looking for the water flash at the edge…. Love this thing!!! To all that know nothing about sharpening, I own wet stones (high dollar; gathered them all in Japan at their Mecca) and can put a sharpness on blades that outperform new utility knife blades. Work sharp is a close second for sure. But the flexibility in sharpening odd blades is genius with this Work Sharp. I own electric sharpening devices, but this one has my 👍. Trust me it is well worth the cost. My issue with many electric sharpening devices is that they don’t offer replacement sharpening parts (wheels, etc). So when they are cashed out, you have to buy the whole device again. Work Sharp offers inexpensive belts. Not gonna lie, if your a novice or expert in knife sharpenin….you need this!!!! Pros: it gets your blades very sharp, and puts a curved bevel on the blade (structural integrity). Cons: the only con I see is that you have to have a consistent steady hand while sharpening. Pull straight through without deviation and you’re golden. If you know nothing about sharpening, then you need this in your life!
So, the fact that the grinding is going in one direction on one side of the blade and in the other on the other side makes no difference in the end result? I always polish on a whetstone pushing the blade away from me on each side. Just checking.
Is there anyway you guys could show a demonstration for a dagger style blade? I saw you guys do it with the other attachments added to the grinder, but are you able to do it using the same method with this guide?
I received my WorkSharp MkII this morning and sharpened a couple blades before going to work. It works nicely but I should've watched your video first. I sure could practice my technique.
Thanks. I own a lot of expensive camping knives that I've never used, (cause I dont know how to properly sharpen things), or are dull from yrs of use and have been 'abused' by those cheap pocket sharpeners... after watching this and 'practicing' on some old filet knives and bringing them back to razor sharpness I was ready for anything! I restored my old dull Tops BOB and Spivey Sabertooth back to original sharpness instead of sending it back to the factory. I cant believe I let such fine knifes just sit there in a drawer, dull, for years! The 80$ or whatever this costs is well worth it.
The flexibility of the belts make them great for forming to all sorts of blade shapes making it possible to sharpen even the curviest knives. That flexibility can work against you though, when it come to the tip of the knife because in some cases the belt will wrap around the tip of the knife and round it off if done enough times. To prevent this and help maintain a nice point on your knife, make a habit of stopping on the belt.
You are probably right, many Japanese knives are sharpened to 15. The KTS Mk.2 only sharpens as steep as 20. That angle will still work well but if you want to keep the factory angle you would need to use a different sharpener like our new Rolling Knife Sharpener or Ken Onion Edition Knife and Tool Sharpener.
I guess I'm just dumb cause mine is crap. When sharpening even the slightest bit of contact between the knife and the guide cuts into the plastic and the flexible belts create a wired curved edge
You're not dumb and we can help! Our customer service team would love to hear more about what you're experiencing and can make sure your machine is working properly and even offer some tips and tricks to make sure you get the best results. Send them and email at info@worksharptools.com and they will get you dialed in.
the guides are all but useless, i sharpen without turning off the machine from side to side without a guides, its quick and effective, but for safety,,,,blah....blah.....they ask you to stop the machine so that when you transfer from side to side you don't hit the machine while its moving which can possibly shred the belt or move the knife upwards, like i said, blah blah blah.....just much faster with a very small element of risk......but i do always get a razor sharp edge, if it can cut a tomatoe and the hair on my arm than I know i'm good to go.
20 degrees is a good all around angle for the majority of kitchen knives. There are some that use a steeper angle (around 15°)and for that type of knife you could change the angle to 20 or you would want to use a different sharpener like our Ken Onion Edition or Professional Kitchen Electric.
Hi, great video..thanx. Question: Why do u need to have the blade resting on the belt before starting and why u need to stop the pull thru with tip of blade in middle of belt ? Thanx..
Does the belt only spin one way? Surely this has a negative effect on sharpening, one side of the blade your'e sharpening against the grain, on the other side with the grain.
Our customer service team can dig in and see what the issue might be. Send an email to info@worksharptools.com to get the conversation started. They will get you taken care of!
I have started wood carving and have several typical knives. They are relatively sharp but not razor sharp.. I suppose I should use purple belt but how do I determine the angle to set- 20 or 25. On order so only have watched RU-vid and going through the user guide
I have the ken onion model, and no matter how hard I try, I can't get a razor edge. Even on good steel. I am following along the exact same way, but when I get down to the finer blades, I feel I am losing the burr. Any help would be great. Mostly using kitchen knives and fillet knives. Thanks
Single bevel or chisel grinds are not recommended for the KTK Mk.2. Those knives are best sharpened on a manual system that uses a stone (Precision Adjust, Benchstone, Whetstone). They are usually a "flat" grind which means the convex edge a belt makes won't work with that type of knife.
I was always taught to sharpen towards the spine. Here one side of the knife sharpens towards the spine while the other side sharpens away from the spine. Wouldnt that cause a burr?
Came across the video had to add... received the WS combo knife sharpener (has 25 deg honing guides) with medium grit belt ect for Christmas...single speed btw, white stone rod on the side.....ahhhh it collects dust in the box. Poor motor speed for starter..I can probably run faster than it turns the belt. Avid home chef, hunter....didn’t have a receipt for it or it would have been sent back immediately after test. Weak novelty pos that does not sharpen anything well enough to cut butter, better off using olive oil and a stone. Who knows if the “upgraded 2speed” works or not. Not prepared to spend $1 to test considering I got one that certainly doesn’t work.
I just picked up the Mark II myself and was hoping someone could answer a question for me : could I use this machine with a router speed controller to further slow it down or would that hurt this type of motor? Please forgive my ignorance in advance
It seems to just destroy the tips of my knifes. And makes an uneven edge. The edge of the down stroke of belt it always deeper than the left side with the up stroke of the belt
Just got this for Christmas yesterday and have a bunch of knives that I'm looking to sharpen. Gonna start with my cheaper ones first to get it going. Thanks for the great videos and discussions!
I still sharpen most of my knives on a stone but I'm not very good at it, so I use this to reset the angle of the edge, then I screw it up on the stone.
I love this for getting an edge but find the polishing (purple) belt seems to go quick or gets alot of build up, whats the best way to clean them. I generally use a rubber block but purple still seems not to last
