Good stuff after 37 years in the arborist world I use the pole saw a lot usually I buy a new blade after a month or two I want to sharpen my own gotta have patience and I use bifocals and good lighting thanks. Can’t wait to cut with it
It's not as important a skill as back in the day but for people in rural areas who just can't nip over to Home Depot in 10 minutes, it saves a lot time. Besides once you get the skill down sharpening only takes a couple of minutes an you always start your work with sharp as new saw.
Most pole saws are 'pull saws' they cut most on the sides of the bladed that face the handle - when the pole is 'pulled' otherwise the pole could buckle and kick, and when the blade is pushed the weight lifts off the teeth and it would try to climb out of the branch, when it is pulled the weight is onto the teeth, a normal hand held blade cuts on the forward stroke.
Thanks Rich Schwartz this is a good video. I reckon that might be a softer type of steel though, I might have to look further for a different blade next time, one that's easily re-sharpened. It could be wrong but I heard from a reliable source that many modern saw blades are ultra hardened particularly at the teeth side; this renders them impossible to re-sharpen (for laymen) :-D
That is a Silky file he is using. Silky are a premier brand of pruning saws for professional arbs and this file is recommended for sharpening their saws.
+Frank E Davidson I believe what you said is true. But that variety of file has been around much longer than Silky. It is also good for sharpening other saws. But that file is hard to find. And that is the problem, finding that file.
i believe this video is in error - of suggesting to do just the backs of the odds and the fronts of the evens. I have always done the backs and the fronts of the odds and the evens, in fact in the professional sequence ending you can see that they are doing the backs of the evens; otherwise i would have thought that this was some special sequence that i wasn't aware of...
Good video, I like the detail drawing. However, maybe someone and answer a question. Why file the back (#1 operation) of the tooth. I see no need to file the back side. It is not a cutting edge and to do so would reduce the life of the saw and the file. Thanks, Jim
Most decent saws now have induction hardened teeth that are very hard, too hard for a file to touch. My dad used to sharpen and rest the blades on normal wood saws many years ago, and was not happy until a sewing needle would slide smoothly down the grove between the teeth after he had used his 'setting pliers'...
