This is how I do all my razors. This is not just a touch up. I use a coticule here but you can use any finish stone you'd like. The first yellow stone I use is a Norton 8K and the finisher is a coticule. Anyone can do this!
Thank you Dr. Matt been watching your videos to try and learn how to hone a razor and shave. Learned a lot. Bought a cheap gold dollar 208 and went through the whole bevel setting process starting with a course dmt plate, a 1k king deluxe, a 6k king s3 and a Shapton pro 12k followed up with stroping with leather and green compound and lastly stroping with plain leather. Got a mirror edge that is sharper than anything I’ve done before. Now i got to work up the nerve to actually shave with it. Got to save up for a 8k stone to put in there too.
Thanks for the video drmatt357. I had honed a new GD 300 last week, but got in a bit of a hurry and did not put a killer edge on it. During midshave, I stopped and went back to the shobu, but only marginally improved the edge. After watching this video, I went back to an 8k and then the shobu. BAM! Killer edge.
Nice video and good explanation! Great technique, btw. Maybe need to see more videos on technique because, at the end of the day, all we are really talking about are steel and stones.
Truly, you are an artist at working metal with a proper stone. I GOT it when I read about a particular stone yielding an edge that can differentiate between skin and beard hair! My last shave was with a very sharp edge that exfoliated to an uncomfortable degree. I've been using quality water stones for many years and find, with the sharpening of a straight razor, that I have a lot to learn.
@@drmatt357 There exists a love of stones. I have an unrated Japanese Natural - about 6000 (?) - that I use for my plane blades. I've been a woodworker for a long time. Gonna try that one and shave. TTYL.
New sub! Great stuff here! I looking to learn to hone my razors. Found you via Kai Triska’s channel. Looking forward to checking out more of your videos. All the best. Josh.
Is the 8K Norton and a coticule what you also recommend for a Koraat near wedge? I have both stones plus some finer japanese stones in 13k and an IRL. Not completely satisfied with the edges I attain. I am a woodworker and sharpen a lot of blade edges to a mirror polish, maybe I am over thinking sharpening a razor. Been watching your videos for 5 or more years and shaving with a straight razor a year or more longer.
Hi Dr Matt. Great video. I’ve watched a number of your videos - 2 quick questions (I have just started using a straight razor and doing the maintenance). 1) What is the purpose of the quick honing on the fire hose in the middle of the finish job? 2) Is it a reasonable progression to go from a 6k King to an IRL? I do have experience sharpening knives and typically a 6k King is a perfectly adequate finisher, but I definitely understand that I need to go beyond that for a razor. Got an IRL after watching one of your videos, that seems to work nicely. Thanks in advance!
I use the strop at the end just to get a bit more out of the stone or push it just a touch further. I don't know what to say about the King 6K stone. I did see some SEM pictures of an edge off that stone and it wasn't too good. Give it a try and see.
Thanks Matt 100% agree with you most of the videos are "recommend" "setting the bevel" and "using tape" on a combination of 6 stones !!!! As you suggested, it is magic :)
Hello I'm writing to see if you could do me a favor I'm new to shaving with a straight razor I'll just like to know what are your recommendations for sharpening stones if you could send me a list reasonable price and that's a lot to ask but very much appreciated I love shaving with a straight razor something about it makes you feel like a gentleman of the olden days! I love it
I have Shapton ceramic glass stone up to 16k, also own a Belgium cuticule which I haven't mastered. Wouldn't a 16 Shapton yield a "keener" edge over a coticule? Can you describe the difference between the two edges?
Steve Conaway - Yes Steve, a 16k would be definitely keener. Coticules have this weird ability to better distinguish between whisker and skin. Not everyone cares for the edge because they don’t have that sharp feel. To me, they shine in the post shave. I think it’s because they don’t remove or exfoliate skin like sharper edges.
Good job Doc, I've read about the old barbers / people using lather on their hones. So I was wondering if you need an idea for a video, maybe one about finishing a razor on a Coticule with lather accompanied by pictures under the microscope of the edge / shave test? Anyway, great job on all your videos and your information, I know a lot of people have benefitted from you channel, including myself, kudos! Keep up the good work!
wlkjfa - Thanks for the nice words sir. I’ve tried using lather, dish soap, oil and all work. I honestly couldn’t really see or feel much difference. I find the running water cleaner and easiest. YMMV
Hi All, I'm a 4th generation barber. In addition to school (where they taught zero razor sharpening), I apprenticed under my father. He taught the lather method. I'm so grateful to round out my rustic base knowledge with all of this! Thanks for the question; I was beginning to self doubt. Cant wait to break out the coticle and try this! (Surely I'll be back to ask where I went wrong!). Dr.Matt, I love your style. My kids were laughing at me getting as excited as you while watching your 3 part coticle series. PS. My 13 yr old daughter changed my profile pic. I'm not a weird cat. Well...
My beother got me that grandslamgift sharpening stone... i have a feeling its going to take me a while to sharpen it. What angle are you holding the razor at?
Couple questions doc...I have two straight razors. One is a vintage Kleen Kutter likely from the 50’s. And the other a cheap Kriegar. Will either of these likely ever sharpen to the point of being able to shave with? And the second question is... Do you strop with leather at all? Thanks for your time
Nic Vanfleet - it’s hard to tell without a pic Nic but if it’s a real vintage, I don’t see why they won’t shave. Yes, I use leather prior to every shave.
I bought the Imperial Larosa from your video and having a hard time to get the blade to stick I was wondering if the stones .conical and the Larosa can be used in the traditional back and forth Motion or is that the way u use them thanks
Barry Hammond - Not sure what your asking Barry. Even if it doesn’t stick, how does it shave? Traditional back and forth motion? Do you mean that as opposed to Xs? You can do it any way that gets you the best edge.
First, DrMatt you make great videos, I am a noooob to straight razor shaving, I have a strip w leather side and denim side I have used 3 times after my first 3 shaves, I just got a Shapton 8000 stone, what side of the stone do I use, it's is all in Japanese? This is the only stone I have so stropping after stone is ok?
Thanks JJ. I don't know which side but one should be smoother. Actually it won't matter as the stone is same through and through. Yes, you can strop after. If you'd like, you can get a piece of balsa wood from your local hobby shop liek 3"X8" and put some green chromium oxide on it which would be a cheaper alternative to a finish stone. That will give you a pretty sharp edge.
Matt has it down to a science. The Obi WanKenobi of sharpening, especially with razors. I got more out of my 5,000/10,000 grit stones after three minutes with him than in all the weeks of other honing/sharpening videos watched previously. Five star review, like Robert McCall, the Lyft driver, "Equalizer 2"!!!!!
John Hughes - You could certainly use the 5 John. I use the 8 as I figure it will minimize wear on the razor. I always try and use the least aggressive stone that will get the job done.
When you're pulling the razor towards you are is the blade facing you or away? I'm only asking bc it was hard for me to see. Also would facing the blade away from you when pulling towards you have the same affect? ( if that's the opposite of what your doing?)
Steven Roberts - I do both Steve. The edge is toward me for the majority or leading pass. Then I do some finish passes with the edge away or trailing. The last few when I flip the stone around is leading.
Yes for sure. If you're looking to buy a 12K, I would suggest a Naniwa Super Stone over the Shapton but it will work. Watch my "How to Sharpen Your First eBay razor" video.
@@drmatt357 Thanks, I watched the video, so I'll get some tape. The stone and vintage razor are arriving tomorrow. The website said it would be shave ready, but I guess I'll take that with a grain of salt.
@@drmatt357 As it turns out, it wasn't sharp at all, it didn't even shave arm hair. So I used the 12k stone and now it shaves pretty well. The blade that is, not me haha
I've got a couple of Thiers Issard that I can't get sharp enough not to tug. I've got 8k and 12k. I've just ordered a 4k and hope this will fix it. I don't want to ruin them.
Dr. Matt, in your coticule series you have the recipe of going to a 4K norton or a 5K shapton stone and then to the Coticule. Your modified technique for troublesom Coticules was to go out to 8K and then hit the coticule. Do you now recommend taking all razors out to the 8K Stone before moving to the coticule?
Jeffrey Borrowman - Great question Jeff. You’re obviously paying attention. If you are setting a bevel, making geometry corrections or chip removal and are down low in the grit range, you can certainly go from a 5K to the coticule. Since I’m resharpening, I find I only need to drop down to the 8K. I try and minimize the wear on the razor. I could go down to the 5 but I feel if the 8 gets the job done, I’d rather spare the razor the extra wear. Does that make sense?
@DrMatt357 Hey doc how are you? What grit combination would you advice me for decent sharpening. Atm I got 400/1000 grit diamond, 3000/8000 ceramic M&W. I wanted to buy a 12000 grit shapton waterstone but im not sure.
If you mean the Shapton Pro / Ha-no-kuromaku 12k, then it's a great stone. Jumps like 1k, 5k, 12k are fine so 1k, 3k, 8k, 12k will be great, assuming M&W are true to their grit rating. If price isn't an issue, the Shapton Glass 16k might be more suited for you, since the 8k is so close to 12k.
Portland razor announced that will no longer use tape on their razors. I thought that was very interesting. Question for you Dr Matt. If I receive a razor from someone that has been honed with tape and I want to convert them what stone do you do that with? 8k?
David Rojo - I gather you mean you want to hone the razor without tape. You could do it on an 8K but it may take some time. I would drop down to at least a 5k.
Jim Hinson - I guess you could eventually Jim but if I have work like that, I’m on my diamond plate. Since you’re trying to flatten the razor, if you do it on a stone, it will dish out every few minutes and you’ll have to keep lapping it. The diamond plates won’t dish.
patriot4ever - A lot at the beginning and not much at the end. 😏 I just measured it on a scale. As much as 2.5lbs to start and a couple of ounces to finish.
John Lewis - just seeing this John, sorry. Not really a kit I know of. I would start with the 8K and a finish stone of your choice like a Naniwa 12K Super Stone or ILR. That way your chance of over working a razor (ruining it) will be much less.
That’s a tricky one. It may take a few stones to find one you like. I like the ones that feel like glass when I drag a blade over them. I have a system I use to test them using my scope and other things to help better figure them out.
Bought/won coticule on ebay and I can't wait to try it out. BTW I tried your running water technique on jnat nakayama lv 5++++ and it's gave me really nice and smooth edge/shave. It's looks like running water technique work on alle natural stones.
Hey yall. Anyone tell me how i can send one of my razors to the doc? Once my new on comes in id like to send my razor i have now to him. Its a bit off in geometry and cant get it just right
Derek Rumery - Here’s the video Derek that shows you how, where and how much. Be sure to read the entire description. Click “Show More” ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qiM1i5Z9n0M.html
Hey, do I realy need the norton stone ? I'm quite new to straight razor shaving and I bought a coticule to keep it sharp, but for the moment there is no need to sharpen it. Can I do those steps without the norton and receive a good result ?
If you’re new to this, I would not recommend you start with Coticules. They can be the most temperamental and difficult stones to use. I would suggest you get a full progression of synthetic stones and become proficient with them before going to natural stones. Watch my How to sharpen your first eBay razor and then go from there.
patriot4ever - that is a diamond plate which is a machined piece of steel that’s perfectly flat with diamond substrate on it. Serves 2 purposes. First, it makes the yellow stone flat. Every time you use it, you dish the center out a bit from rubbing the razor on it and two, it generates slurry to speed up the blade sharpening.
I've tried everything and watched countless videos including yours. My razor still won't sharpen enough to shave hair. I don't know what I'm doing wrong.
I did the same thing with my safety razor Astra blade on a pair of jeans. It worked, but it wasn't as sharp as before. It was more or less clunky, so it became sharp but the blade was uneven. So I just recommend personally to get new razors.
It's just called a Universal Stone Holder - www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-71013-Sharpening-Holder-2-Inch/dp/B00NFB2MTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1508702737&sr=8-1&keywords=universal+stone+holder
I've been using a razor I bought used on E-Bay, no complaints. But it is pretty narrow, about 12mm from spine to edge. So I decided to get a new 5/8 Dovo. I've been seriously sharpening for about 30 years, plane blades, chisels and knives and have good stones up to 15,000 (Shapton). After only one shave I see, under a 200 power scope, that the blade is TORN UP! - to the point that I re-hone after every shave. The old blade went for 6 months between honing. (good beard prep, good strop) What is going on? Does it take time to get to 'good metal' or what?
@@drmatt357 Thanks for the response. Great! Just what you want to hear after making a purchase! The second time I honed it I looked at it under the microscope, looked ok. I stropped it and about 1/4 of an inch was folded over! It took a lot of stoning and still there's low spot but it shaves. Do I want to drop another C note on another razor? - not sure. Thanks again.
@@jthepickle7 - you can try and sharpen it with 1 or 2 pieces of tape on the spine which will fatten up the bevel angle and give the edge a bit more strength or resistance to getting torn up. Kind of a work around but may get some more life out of it.
@@drmatt357 Excellent idea! Nothing to lose but some metal. Working, on the stones, shows a slight bow to the blade. I feel that the more I work the bend on the coarser stones will finally yield a more even edge. I don't really care if I shorten the life of the razor as I'm 67 and don't plan on shaving a whole longer anyway.
I don’t do touch ups David. You may want to watch this if you haven’t already to understand where I’m coming from on that. 😁 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ud486L38bDk.html
Using paste is an entirely different step than just the strop even if it were the same strop like linen and linen with green paste. The paste will abrade or remove metal creating a different edge. Some people like it, for others it's too much. If you do use paste, clean the razor off real well, then go to a linen without paste then leather and I wouldn't use the paste every shave. You should be able to go 6-12 shaves before needing the pasted strop again.
Mark Dayoc - it is a Norton Mark. My Shapton fell in the sink and broke. This one works really well believe it or not. The Portland razor is one of their mini models. The Fili is also shortened. I bought it that way. It probably had some damage at the tip at some point and was shortened. My favorite daily shaver.
Have some questions about sharpening a straight razor. My daughter bought me for xmas. can you shoot me an email when you have a chance. I have done the 3 things, but not sure why i keep loosing the edge when i moving from the 1k to the 3k?
Hi. I have an old razor from an old man I used to know. I bought, leather strope, polishing stone 3000/8000 for each side. I tried to sharpen my razor 7 or 8 times, 1 hour each time. I just can't seem to find the way to sharpen it ... any help, advice ...? :(
Stef Tr - it could be lots of things. Can you see if there’s a name on the razor? I can tell you also that the stone is not a good stone. Those 3/8 ones are not made for razor and are not capable of making a shaving edge. Feel free to send me pictures of the razor as that may help. drmatt1911@gmail.com.
Means it's almost done. Since it's performed under running water, it's not a water shortage issue. If you do it on a bench with a spray bottle, make sure you use plenty of water so it's not sticking from lack of water.
@@andydixon914 - spine is always in contact with the stone. Never lift it. The razor was designed to work as it's own sharpening jig. Some guys will put a piece of electrical tape on the spine for various reasons that alters the inherent angle but in most cases, not necessary.
Andy Dixon as surfaces become finer they begin to generate surface tension which holds them together. It’s effectively a vacuum caused by the lack of undulations in the surface. Highly polished surfaces will ‘bond’ together even when completely dry. In this case the polish on the ultra fine grit stone is meeting the polished surface of the blade.
@@drmatt357 Ok thank you, I think i'm going to buy the shapton 8k and the naniwa gouken 12k... I've been addicted to watching all your videos and just recently started using a disposable straight razor but I want to make my switch to a dovo bismarck. Anyways thank you for all the videos they are very educational and entertaining!
No reply ready. Just still trying to get the best edge I can and also as important is being able to repeat it when I find Nirvana (sharpness, not the band). Somewhere on the web, there's a video from the Dovo factory where they show them doing x-strokes. Was wondering if the x-stokes help ensure that each portion of the blade gets at least some contact on the stone as any blade isn't absolutely perfectly straight and flat. The flip side it that a straight up and down motion is more repeatable. Also, I watched your video on x-strokes where you showed the potential of longitudinal lines if not careful.
Hans S - Well, technically, on a full size stone, you don’t need to do an X stroke. If the entire edge fits, then just drag it across. I think most people do the X out of habit because many times or in my case, most of the time I do not use a full size stone.
Thanks. I have a 4K/8K Norton and a 12k Naniwa (also an American Hone Company barber's hone I bought about 25 years ago that gives me about the same results). I shave with my razor, but still haven't gotten it back to the sharpness it had when it came from the factory (despite what I've seen online about razors not really coming from the factory "shave ready", it did a really good job on the HHT and didn't have any pulling while shaving, which I haven't been able to repeat). I have an ILR on the way based on your recommendation and hoping to get there. Your comment about $5 Gillettes being a bargain is no joke. I noticed on the barber's hone with shaving cream, it would very evenly remove the shaving cream when drawing toward me, but not pushing away. I did some grinding on the razor to correct this, but it did make me wonder how they got it so sharp at the factory when the blade wasn't perfectly flat on one side. Figured that the x-stroke might be the answer.
Im sure ive commented on one of your post before. But i ,for the life of me, canNOT figure out why i cant hone my razor. Had to have my barber do it for me last time and he was nice enough to do it for free. Done exactly as he showed me but i just cant figure it out. I feel as if i do more harm than good to my razor.
@@drmatt357 8 or a 12k depending on that status of the edge. If i need to use the 8 ill is it first then try for the 12. But like i said i usually just wreck the edge anyways
The stone talked to me... didn't you hear it? 😆 If you watch just seconds before that, you'll see the razor starts to stick to the stone. It might look like I stopped half way down the stone but it actually gets a sticky feeling. You know for sure at that point that it's done. However, sometimes the stone or razor won't get that sticky feeling. What I do is wait for the feeling to change as I move the razor back and forth and when it stays the same, then it's done. Check my coticule series for a more in depth explanation.
@@drmatt357 so I honed until it got very sticky. It was definitely there. It was not on a coticule stone, but definitely felt it. When I tried to shave it it, it was awful. Tugged and pulled the hair to the point of discomfort. Any idea on where I might have gone wrong?
John Lewis - you need to give it a shot John. You can’t send your razors out forever. It’s as simple as it looks but you may mess them up... but that’s part of learningprocess and besides, there’s always someone who can bail you out. Shaving with a straight razor is great but when YOU put the edge on, it’s a fantastic feeling of accomplishment! Makes your balls bigger too!😏
To smooth out any toothiness or other irregularites but mainly to know that when I bring the edge back on the 8K, it was MY edge and not a residual edge from before.
strange. u can set the bevel with this norton 8k.. blue belgian is suppose to be 8k but there is no way to set bevel after creating bevel with sliding it down a stone. no way no how no matter the slurry.
It's a natural (mined from the earth) finishing stone for razors that are mined from Belgium. Know for comfortable shaving edges. Some don't like them because they're not as sharp but it's an individual thing.
Not confusing... I'm right! Those guys spending hours are weenie waving trying to make themselves look like they're so skilled and what they are doing is this deep art and they're the stone whispererers! 🤮 Nonsense! We're rubbing steel on a rock... that simple! Thanks for stopping by!
"In case you missed this"........and you don't know how to backtrack on the timeline..... Also love the subtle music volume after that meditative sharpening session.........😣🔪
Design your own razor draw a life size send it to me I'll make it out 1095 steel I'm a blacksmith I think that would be pretty fun for your show and project for me
0:56, nope, I have not seen you do this a million times, in this is the first time. I didn’t know it was an 8K stone till you mentioned it. I’m not sure what your doing, well at least not specifics. I can’t imagine letting water wash away my slurry though.
Why do you kill the edge. I have a razor that i finally have an edge that will do the hair test so happily tried shaving it shaved like a Little boys pocket knife
This doesn't actually explain anything. It just shows you working the blades on stones. It might be more useful if you actually gave some instruction. I do quite a but of sharpening and I did not learn anything useful here, if that was the purpose. Or did I misunderstand?
I have many other videos where I run my mouth plenty explaining ad nauseum theory and back it up with microscope slides. This is just how to as the title states. Maybe the slow motion button on your player?
