@@E-bikeguy I've been discussing with an e-bike builds global forum within Facebook regarding shunt mod's, and the need for you to add an addendum to your video indicating adding additional cooling to avoid burning up the system quicker... Fans, additional heatsinks, better conductive paste, & maybe about using epc instead of they can't solder.
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It’s important to note that the shunt mod is for enthusiasts who have a stack of controllers or money to buy a new one. The shunt mod merely bypasses the controller’s current limit which which can allow it to fry. Take the 1500w controller, stock. If you connect it to a 1500w motor and go up a long steep hill so that it pulls 1500w for 10 minutes. It will survive because the 18 MOSFETS and heat sink are designed for that. If you shunt mod to 2500w, it will work ok as long as the motor can only pull 2500w for 30 seconds before its up to soeed and the amp draw decreases. But if you go up that same steep hill and it tries to sent 2500w for 10 minutes it will fry. A motor can take higher watts than the continuous rating for longer because if the thermal mass. But a controller only has that small aluminum bar as thermal mass so it takes only seconds to heat up. Its a fun mod to do but people should understand if there were no cons then the manufacturer would do it and charge more money. I added 15% and theres no hills in my area so its pretty conservative. If i get a better controller then i might mod this to +50% just for an experiment before putting the new one on. My Votol EM-30s has no limit in settings. They just say “don’t set amps higher than 32a or it might fry” lol. I guess your Sabvoton has limits in settings but you can unlock it and set it for WARM, BAKE, or BROIL. lol.
You right, I never experience a controller shut down on me also I don't have hills lol but the shunt mod I did to my son's 1000w bike is now on a 3000w hub motor, so far no blows lol
@@E-bikeguy, yes, the 3000w motor is safe in all cases no matter what you do to the controller. But if you mode the controller enough to get 3000w, and then let your big son get on it and tow the 4-wheeler through the grass (enough to actually pull 3000w for 10 minutes), it will fry. On your bike with watts display you can see how it goes to peak watts for just seconds before reaching speed and automatically throttling back. With your small son on his small bike, that 1000 watt controller maybe gave 1500w for a few seconds then back down. I can see that easy on my ebike with Smart BMS and Votol where i can see amps, but my other ebike all I hace is voltage sag to let me know that the controller is easing up. I get about 4v sag when accelerating (15a) and then about 3v sag at 20 mph flat ground no wind. Lol My bike didn’t go faster with the shunt mod. If your son’s bike went faster then something was definitely underpowered or you added a bigger battery with higher voltage or more capacity (less sag at full throttle so more speed). But all these mod increasing current or voltage higher than designed increases the chances that it won’t work for 50 years. Lol
About the bypass part, not exactly. It passes more current than the programming thinks is passing through. I've done two different controllers and you can go to the p14 setting and turn down the max amps. I've turned it down to 5 amps max and it's still quicker than stock but only a little. The other one I turned down to 15 and it's faster than stock. I used less solder on this one so I'm thinking that's what the difference is between the two setting changes to get a similar result. The display I have is the sw900
@@paulmryglod4802 , the ONLY thing a shunt mod does is DECREASE the resistance in the shunt, REDUCING the feedback signal to the controller, making it think its less current than actual. In a non-programmable controller it will simply increase the max current the controller sends. In a programmable controller that has locked max amps, is simply throws the calibration out so that you can give it more current within the calibration range. In a unlocked controller there is no need to screw up the current feedback loop calibration because you can just set it to fry if you want to. But I stand by my statement 100% that if this was 100% safe, the manufacturer would just calibrate it to a higher amps and increase profit. Its quite likely many people will not enter the region of thermal runaway under normal use, but if you live in a mountainous region and climb at full power at max rated voltage and 25% over rated current, never giving the controller time to offload and cool down, it can fry. So a manufacturer leaves a safety buffer in there for extreme conditions. I did raise my generic Chinese controller from 13.6a to 15.6a, but its speed setpoint of 35kph and not a hill for within battery range ensures it will have an offload period. And it’s just a hobby ebike. If i needed to rely on it i would have left all the safety buffer intact. So as I said, its a fun hobbyist thing but if you have money just buy the right controller and everything will be fine. Lol
It’s my first time doing an ebike I’ve done something similar before but not an ebike, I got a 52v 20ah battery and 48v 1000w motor being delivered soon I live on a steep hill with about a 15 degree incline for about 1/2 mile I needed something for work until I past my test
This really works, too much so in my case. I had a 2kw battery and an un-modded 1kw e-bike kit, and it worked fine. I did this mod (and also added thermal paste to the MOSFETS because my esc didn’t have any for some reason?) and it had enough torque to spin the axle and short out all of the wires, which killed the esc.
Really interesting video sir. I too am a HVAD! 🤓 High Voltage Ampere Dude! I’ve modified my bike a few times. I currently have a 7245 Sabvoton. It is super smooth and hits 45 mph flat out. I recently bought a monster 72200 Sabvoton controller that I’m going to install. But probably will dial it back so it doesn’t fry my 1500w rear direct drive motor. I’m not sure how much current the motor can handle until it busts the magnets loose or smokes the windings? But I’ll probably find out 😂 Maybe I’ll do the shunt mod on the 7245 controller and see what improvement I get before trying my new 72200. Thanks man appreciate your work. Peace Prospector Tripp
Thank you the 7245 controller is awesome and my son's bike is a 1500w and I have a 80a controller in it but also pretty light too he gets a new controller next month tho but the 72200 will be a beast of a controller for it's size
If you want to protect your motor, you should try adding fuerofluid to it. The magnetic fluid will coat the magnets and keep it cooler. I don't know the suppliers' link, but it's a bike shop in Oregon and they have a RU-vid channel. Just put fuerofluid in the search bar.
Well i just shunt mode my controller it has 3 shunt bars i squeezed them all together soildered them and now im going to see what happens il get back to this coment when i get back from my ride stay tuned jaimielyn
@@Pete.. thanks for reminding me, I forgot I commented this lmao. The shunt mod is super good 👌. As long as your not ripping it all the time from a stop, you should be fine with the heat the controller takes. Make sure to mount your controller outside of the bag it comes with
The 'SHUNT MOD' is simple in terms of electronics. I did notice there was rust on the leading edge of the board when you reassembled it. That means there is water ingress on the top of the controller. It would be nice to see someone add a Super Capacitor in parallel to the battery to see what that does for instant performance.
Great idea: adding a "super " capacitor to the input. Can't really say it increases the current output during a hard acceleration, unless you put it on a dyno. But, a stop watch is the next best thing. Since you're dumping more current through the motor windings, they'll be getting hotter. ...may not last as long. Keep an eye on the temps. Imagine having two big hub motor wheels on the rear of a scooter...like a "duallie" more copper to spread out the heat.
There's an ebike with no batteries called pi pop that runs off supercapacitors. It's in its 3rd generation right now pretty cool but its based put of France
What colour of wire should you disconnect/cut to remove the SPEED-LIMITATION inside a controller. I have singularly SCREWED down BLUE, YELLOW, GREEN, Main HUB ? Wires...then Lots of Finer little wires ?....Thanks.....
Im thinking of doing this to my eahora Cupid. The company ofcourse told me not to shunt mod or even remove the speed limiter. They said doing either would fry the bike. Can you please give me your input on doing both?
Another GREAT video Bro. Keep up the tutorials so that the ebike community can become more Educated..... I plan on doing the shut mod, but should I add more thermal past to help with cooling??? What are your thoughts on that?
@@E-bikeguyHow is it that by just soldering the top of the those three Shunts you are going to increase the power, being that shunts are practically resisters, and the solder connectors are still connected from A to B on the mother board, my common sense would be that you desolder and remove the shunts altogether, and run a heavy gauge wire from A to B from the mother board base, please correct me if i'm wrong, and why would your way of doing it work as well?
@alexshatner3907 that's also a good idea but I think the why people just solder is it too much work lowland it just easier just to blob some solder on top of the sunts
@@E-bikeguy E-bike guy I need you help in solving a problem, I went ahead and soldered a thick wire from behind the motherboard, bypassing the shunts, Yes the scooter took off like a rocket, but only lasted 30 seconds and the controller smelled like burnt,and died what did I do wrong?
Wish someone would do a shunt mod to a bafang internal controller. Just saying. Oh yea, I did get the cable for changing settings, but you need an older version than windows 10 to work. Waisted 20 bucks
My man! How many ways can I say thank you? I just installed my new 72v battery and was sad because it was slower than my 60v. The increased power caused stuttering and terrible performance. So, I shunt modded the controller and re-torqued my 3 phase wire nuts. OMG!! My bike is a freaking ROCKET now. 50mph easy and sooo smooth. No more stuttering, just smooth power. Thank you so, so much. I was about to drop 200 on a new controller.
@@E-bikeguy Well, the controller blew. :( I think I need a bunch more thermal paste!! My controller hardly had any, and I didn't add any. I'm trying again this week and I'll be sure to add more paste to my new controller. HOpefully that helps. Thx.
Love your vids i have a 750w victrip titan its a awesome bike but want more power so im going to to this shunt mod i hope i get a little more top speed and torque
While you're in the controller, I'd clean off all that extremely cheap white thermal paste and apply some quality thermal compound (aka thermal interface material (TIM)). It will make a huge difference in the amount of heat transfered from the MOSFETS heatsink to the case. If they used white paste gunk between the MOSFETS and the heatsink, I'd replace that with quality TIM as well. The white compound used on many controllers is about the cheapest possible...to keep down manufacturing costs of course. Check out comparison articles on thermal compounds used with computer processors.
I recommend "Noctua NT-H2"...paste will last in the tube for years NT-H1 and Arctic MX-4 are cheaper and work very well too Just avoid everything liquid metal. These will short your components and kill your controller
Its funny I was looking at my controller the other day and saw these little metal bars. I didnt know what they were, but when you said the word shunts my mind pictured these little bars that I saw on my controller an then you showed me thats is exactly what they are. thanks
I recently did a shunt mod on my 35 amp 52 volt kt controller. It took a few attempts, but eventually (after adding a lot more solder and applying more heat to the shunts) it worked. I reckon the acceleration (torque) on my 2kw rear hub has increased by around 20 - 30 percent (maybe more).... And equally the battery drains at the same increase! Ha, obviously. No gain without pain. That's physics. I'm glad I risked doing the mod (I do have a spare controller though, in case it didn't work). It could have melted everything for all I knew, but it seems to be fine. However, I'm not sure how much the faster discharge will affect the battery? Does anyone know? I can now zoom up hills at 25 mph whereas before the mod I could only do 17 mph on the same hill. The cruising speed has gone up to 39 mph from 36 mph. Ha, cars are now getting in MY way. I'm overtaking cars on a bicycle. Love it
If your going to reduce the resistance on the shunt that much its going to run loads more power than it was originally designed, I would beef up the solder tracks like I did on mine or you will pop one of the tracks, It will also reduce the risk of resisance building up on the little FET legs and then cooking a FET as a result. It will also allow for more power and make it go a bit quicker as there is less power being lost through resistance. I basically did what you did with a little 500w controller except I basically just covered pretty much the entire shunt with solder. It is pulling 170 amps (8500w) from the battery and pops wheelies without even having to lean back. Not sure how long it will last though haha!! Luckily I got loads of spare controllers!
@@TomasWatchReviews It's still going strong bud. It gets warm real quick on acceleration but as soon as speed builds the wind cools it off very quickly as it's externally mounted.
@@jcreedy20 Hey I have a question since you seem pretty knowledgeable, So I bought a generic controller like this on Amazon but it can run 72v instead with 100v capacitors. It's rated to pull maximum 50A but it doesn't feel like it's doing 72v 50A at ALL, So I opened the controller and there were 4 points that said 60v,64v,72v,80v. The 60v option is bridged connected with what appears to be solder but for some reason when I try to melt it, it doesn't want to budge so I'm thinking that's the reason my bike doesn't feel like a 72v. do you know anything to help me? I also tried bridging the 72v point but no difference.
@@unrivaled.zzz11 No this will have nothing to do with the power output. You are using a 72v battery on the controller aren't you?. Basically those solder pads are literally to set the cut off voltages for the controller. So the controller will cut power when the battery reaches a certain voltage when it runs out. If the 48v solder pads were soldered the controller would cut power much lower than if the 72v solder pads were soldered. It has no bearing on power. If you want more power just do a little shunt mod and make sure the aluminium block that bolts to the controller case has heat sink paste on it.
any chance you got the make/model/wiring diagram for this controller? i bought one used just like that board from ebay and all the wires were cut. i cant find any diagrams online for this board and your video is all i have found with this board at all.
@@E-bikeguy any chance you remember the wiring? i pocked around and found that crossing x pin to ground seems to be regen so i soldered a wire on and ran it out the box. got most wires figured out but would like to be sure before using it. did you have this connected to a display?
Hey ebike dude ive a question for u ive a brushed controller i think its only got 2fase wires but is there anyway i can add a third fase as its a excellent built controller real nice inside any ideas my man
For future reference, MOSFETS (pronounced moss-fets) are not transistors because they are voltage controlled, not current controlled like transistors. Also the blue stuff is lock-tight, which helps keep the screws from coming loose.
I’m not good at math though… how do you do with counting? No math involved. Just messing with ya.. I’m sure if I was on camera I would say stupid shit also. 😂
I have an Evercross H9 with the 14ah battery with 800 watts they changed the trigger speedometer to a top mount model with Bluetooth and a thumb throttle and I'm wondering if there is a controller I can put in it to give it more power than it's 28 mph limit, the motor is barely working you can feel it, it could move that alot faster. If I sent the controller to you could you modify it? Is there an email address we can talk about price..
@@E-bikeguyQuick question boss, I have a 48v 800w scooter i injected statorade and put heat sinks around my rear wheel to help with cooling my motor quicker I ride pretty responsible if i shout mod my factory controller will it burn out my mosfets and how should i ride to stay safe..
@E-bikeguy couldn't get the motherboard out of the case was fixed in place and I didn't wanna cut a hole to do it. Any good upgrade kits you can recommend that are pretty much plug and play? I'd like to get a 1500 watt motor at least and a 52-72v battery
Was hoping i can shunt my controller since it seens to be a unique controller to the brand i bought and there isn't any i can find that would fit any of my existing wiring. Mine has a 10pin main line, 3 pin sensor, 4 pin tail light, and a triangle 3 pin motor cable. Open up the controller casing and it is filled with silicone so its impossible to take out the pcb without cutting the aluminum case. This is really frustrating because this bike can do so much more than the 25mph its limited to. It has a 750w rear hub with 90nm of torque. 48v 15ah battery but the controller is limited to 20amp only. If only i can shunt it and get it to at least 32mph, i would be happy.
@@E-bikeguy it is. Think I already messed something up by trying to push it out with a metal flat screw driver. It slipped under the PCB and touched something on the corner and it sparked. Now my left handbrake (front wheel) won't trigger my brake light. If you have any idea what controller (30a) would work with the Puckipuppy Hummingbird, would really appreciate it. Thanks.
@@E-bikeguy any luck buddy all i no is the resistor is a R005. And I want to put 1 on top to half the ohm risistence. But I don't no what watt to pic thay offer 1 w 2 w 3w
@user-ut1fs4kv3z no luck here I was wondering if you knew the name of the controller because I really don't know, but the shunts are resistors also. But the r005 is a resistors but it also tells me that the controller is very small
Hello i have a QMWHEEL V20 fatbike, what i want exact, is that the bike will be limited at 5kmh with just the trottle and that with peddle it goes 25kmh, but only the trottle max speed 5kmh, now in stage 1 just the trottle does 10kmh and that is illigal in the Netherlands, the rule is just 5kmh so i want put a switch on it, or a electric responder key or codes or something that it just goes 45kmh (what it can ride now max speed) when I want, and when I press the key or switch that I just can limeted the trottle at 5kmh but that you can paddle and trottle together the max can be 25kmh, but only pressing the trottle and no peddle can be max 5kmh.. and top speed 25kmh with peddle and trottle but the trottle need to stop at 5kmh, the controller is from dongguan jing hui I hope that I have explained it well if you need more info or something please let me know
Hi. i have a 2000 watt 48v 23AH e bike. One controller 27 AH for each motor. Do I shunt mod each controller? Or just one? Please let me know, Thank you.
So where is the testing before and after the shunt mod? You should test the Amps it's outputting before and after and also test the temperature before and after.
No actually had it on my son's bike and I sold it to his friend, so where is my new ebike? Lol but I'll be real with ya, there is a risk involved when do a sunt mod to a controller.
Bunu bende yaptım akım açılıyor fakat akü hemen bitiyor km azalıyor yokuşları çok iyi çıkıyor pil ömrünü yok ediyor yapana tavsiye 3 1 rini lehim yapsın birleştirme den
Hurricane coming our way here is So Cal or San Diego where im at in a few E. I know I wont be able to ride e bike this time. Medium rain a bit a stretch Ive been riding thru last storm but this mthrfckr a hurricane.?! You know the haps on these events on monthly basis. Its going to be bad hah?
Do you have any experience with controllers for Aventon aventure? I’m going on over 2500 miles on my E bike I would like more power. Thank you for your channel.
If you want more power, buy a bigger controller. If it were that easy and lasted for any amount of time ( Before it fries out) the companies would just do the same and charge you for a more powerful unit. It may work for a little while or it will just pop as soon as you plug it in. Unless you upgrade everything else to handle the power.
Manufacturers design their products to be foolproof. That means limiting everything to much lower than what it can handle, just to make sure it doesn't get burnt up from somebody hitting full throttle for their whole battery. When you raise the peak, you just need to have some discipline and let off of the throttle regularly, to keep the average usage within the rated range, so everything can cool down adequately. But being able to rapidly accelerate to 30, then turn off the assist, and pedal until you eventually drop down to 20, then accelerate back up to 30 again, uses less total power than just going a constant 25. Batteries are already protected by BMS, so the controller will not draw more current than the battery is permitted to discharge, so the battery is safe. And for a hub motor, the only limiting factor is heat, so that comes down to the rider. If you're running double the power, then you need to use it less than half the time, to give it time to cool. When I ride, I'm constantly messing with the controls, changing the PAS setting to max every time I accelerate, and then turning it off. So for me, something like this would get plenty of time to cool down, I just want more peak power during my acceleration. I think something like this will work for me. My e-bike's motor is commonly used in other e-bikes with 18A controllers, and my battery is rated for 18A discharge, my only limiting factor is my controller, which is limited to 15A. So a mod like this will only result in +3A, that's +20% power, until my battery's BMS protection will prevent it from going any higher. That will bring my speed from 20-21 mph up to 23-24 mph, which might not seem like much, but I'll feel a lot All of that being said, I think when it comes to homemade e-bikes, people should really just buy a better controller, it's such a cheap part to upgrade, just do it. Shunting only makes sense if you're using a bought bike and you can't just fit any old controller inside the frame where the original one was. A lot of bought bikes, just to play it extra safe, tend to skimp out on the controller, and get a controller that limits the current to way less than what the battery and motor can handle.
@@E-bikeguy My friend, it doesn’t gonna blow up my motor?... I forgot to say that mine is a go kart motor, not a hub one. I have a 3000w 72v wich is of 45A, but my controller and my battery will give it 60A, there’s no problem if the controller and the battery gives 60A instead 45A? 😰 Thank you a lot for response 🙏🏽
@@E-bikeguy yo bro got rid of the conversion kit I now got me a dualtron 60v with dual motor. New to the scene can I still upgrade it just like an e-bike?
Unless you have a controller Intelligent Brushless ₩otor Controller hase angle: 1200 Model: NJTZT-6GZE Do50086 Electric current: 25+1A Voltage: 36V/48V Brake handle: low level Undervoltage: 29+1V Date: 2022-07-07 Quzhou naijiate auto industry co.,ltd this controller is strictly IC contorlled. E-bike companies are upgrading thier controllers as they see these videos.
Very cool, does this mod keep the watts at full power when the bike reaches top speed, one of my bikes has a controller that drops off power at around 30mph, thanks
@@E-bikeguy Oh damn that no good, could I also change the controller to give it more power I currently have a 750 controller in it could i change that for like a 1000w without changing the motor or that doesn't work?
Trying to get more out of my Philodo H8. Only getting 29mph out of it. Supposedly this bike has 2 1000w motors which are stamped on the motors but what makes me wonder is why they used 22amp controllers on this bike one for front and one for back. Also they have disabled the ability to even see the current draw and RPMs from display. Still I’d like to try and get more out of this bike. It is however better imo than the Aventon Aventure I sold to purchase the Philodo H8 AWD.
I have the same ebike and I am also contemplating a shunt-mod, but I really want to use a heavy duty switch or relay to cut it on and off. I may experiment with moding the front controller first to test, but if both controllers will take the mod...we'll be doing like 40mph!
@@E-bikeguy thanks for getting back to me bro. I pulled it apart. Nothing looks bad. Nothing smells bad. I don't know., I hooked everything back up but nothing 😭 I ordered a new controller. I was just hoping this one was still good.
I’m not noticing very much difference than before using a 1200w controller my bike is really heavy though seeing a little difference in battery drain. Maybe add more solder?
Thanks one of my controller went bad because of the shunting. I recently did a 35amp controller it gave me more power top speed longer and one to two mph faster. 1500 watts e-bike controller
@@E-bikeguy Have you looked inside to see if there is a shunt ? I have a 72200 and have the unlock software but it don't work, was hoping to shunt mod it to give it a boost. with my QS 205 5T motor I can only reach 30mph on a 58v battery but it is capable of 400amps continuous and 800amps for 10 second bursts. I also have a QS 205 3.5T in the shed that is busted and will fix it for the spring so if I cant mod the controller I will switch to this motor and upgrade the battery to 74v but I will miss out on the 3.5T torque as I live in a hilly area.
yeap lol :-) like i said ,, but if you find out about this model,and you can find a resonable part list plus good advices turn this heavy iron horse into a monster lol i order from you :)
Is this the fame with famex 2000w controler i currently have a 48v battery hooked up and im wanting to ad another 48for more power tho only have a 2000w controler will this work to make it faster ?
