How to Solder Wires - Wire Repair - Automotive Education 

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You do your thing. Don't worry about the haters. As long as you know your giving honest info that's what matters

Very good presentation. It was great you gave people a 2nd choice and how to do it the right way. No matter that soldering is far better, there may be times you just need to do the butt joint connectors. By including it, you did people good. I haven't done much soldering lately. I just needed a refresher course. Thank you for the video.

Thank you for showing both methods.. I'm new to soldering so the 2nd option was very helpful! 👍

SUBSTANTIAL DIY AUTO HOMESCHOOL Thanks for sharing it 👍 From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

Kyle, thanks for the demonstration. Very informative and helpful. Thanks for sharing 👍👍👍

Hi there, always willing to learn something new and the way you showed of joining the ends of wire and twisting before soldering is a new way for me, I'll remember that for next time. Thanks fur your vids.

Your soldering has already been addressed in comments. =] All I will say on that issue is that no flux core solder has enough flux in it for the job. The issue you are having with your crimps and the heat shrink breaking is that you are using the incorrect crimp. The crimper with the nib that pushes into the connector that you used is for non insulated connectors. For insulated connectors you have to go further down on your tool and use the crimp spots that are oval without the nib. This area is for insulated connectors. Also you need to use two crimps if you are using a narrow crimper like you have. Always make your first crimp close to the center of a butt connector or the lug of the ring or fork type. Then slide your crimper toward the wire and make a second crimp ensuring they do not overlap or go off the end of the metal inner portion and is in the same orientation as the previous crimp. This will give you a superior crimp and will not break the heat shrink. If you are using non heat shrink connectors I recommend putting heatshrink on them with silicone paste or other dielectric placed on the connection prior to putting your heat shrink on. I have also used a small amount of hot glue on the connection prior to the heat shrink so that it really seals it up when you put the heatshrink on. Just put a little hot glue on the joint using a heat gun or butane torch, let it cool a bit and slide the heatshrink over it. The heatshrink we use at work has hot glue already applied to the inside surface for weather proofing.

Your humility is astounding

Thank you so much for sharing this.

Top job fella, thanks for the lesson👍

Thank you for your video very informative.

Very nicely done. Thank you for the lesson.

thanks for the video .. and for showing altrnate method.

Thanks learned something

Should put soldering flux on the joint so the solder will flow better in between the wires.

Good explanation.

The solder spiked because all of the flux from the solder core was cooked off. It can be from a combination of too much dwell time and tip temperature being too high. Knocking the points off still leaves what is called a "cold" (US) or more appropriately "dry" (UK) joint. To help slow down the flux burn off, turn the temperature down a bit. If that is not possible then believe it or not you can correctly reflow it a few different ways. the first would be to introduce a little more solder (must have a flux core) with a larger size tip and as you feed that small amount of solder remove the tip. This will introduce more flux into the joint and rewet the solder in the joint. Another way is to add a bit of flux (paste or liquid solution as long as it's meant for electrical work) to the surface of the splice and , with a clean tinned tip (just a dot extra for thermal transfer), reheat the joint until the entire solder joint reflows, and as soon as it does, remove the tip from the joint. Another issue can be with the solder itself. Cheap solder quality can vary greatly as well. Sometimes the flux core in cheap solder is not even useable and can cause dry joints and frustration in beginners who assume they just can't solder. If you're looking for a good brand, Kester is my go-to. The lead free is spendy but the leaded spools most beginners need is about $25 USD a pound and that spool will last a while for a beginner.

First I would like to thank you for your video. I agree that between the two procedures the first one is the best. Watching you I feel that 1.- You don't use flux. 2.- If you use flux and apply the gun at the bottom of the wire and the solder on top of the wire the solder will run toward the heat and run across the whole wire more evenly. Please elaborate as how many solder there are. and when to used them. In this case you solder 2 COPPER wires what if copper is not in play. Thank You

thanks for the vidieo I just got a boat and my truck does not have the plug for the trailer so I got a soldering iron to put the plug on but I didn't know how to solder but now I do !!

good job

I'm probably one of many that disagree that soldering is the preferred way to join wires together. All the manufacturer's I have worked for have strict wire repair guidelines. The crimp and seal, aka heat shrink butt connectors, is the preferred way to repair wires. This is due to having a solid mechanical bond between the wires. This will prevent the wires from pulling apart. It will also reduce high resistance and lower the chance of corrosion. With that being said you do need to use quality heat shrink butt connectors and a quality tool to do the crimping. Soldered joints are highly susceptible to strain and fatigue. the act of soldering itself causes that point to become rigid and brittle. Don't get me wrong I believe soldering has its place and I have used it many times, it's just not the best way to do a repair. Even manufactures will say to use solder but only in conjunction with a crimp. If you look at any car you will not find any wires that are joined together by solder alone. I liked your video and I know it will help several people and a soldered connection it a thousand times better than just twisting them and taping them any day. If I do solder I like to make a linesman joint, if there is enough wire, due to making a good mechanical connection. I don't agree you should use the soldering iron to melt the solder. You should always use the wire to melt the solder so you allow the solder to wick through the wires. If not you are making a cold soldered joint which is even weaker and more likely to fail. Ref. www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/842/2018_Elec_BPrac_093017.pdf Page 48

Great demonstration. Just like a clarification, why is crimping not as good as soldering? Is it a matter of better conduction or a longevity issue? And, for automotive application, is here special wires and butt connectors to use since they'll be operating in the engine?

Would you mind turning on CC for your videos? I am non-hearing.

Nice job, you took on the controversial issue just fine. You can please some of the people some of the time as they say.

Hey, thanks for watching. I hope you enjoyed the video, and i hoped you learned something. Feel free to share your thoughts, advice, and any input on this subject in the comments.

Electric soldering guns are hard to use for the heat transfer. I like the butane gas torch heats quickly and cheaper than the iron and no cord.

I did learn something from the video. Can you recommend a good soldering iron? Thanks.

The only thing I will add is no one seems to use their wire stripper tool correctly. When stripping the insulation turn you stripping tool so the flat side of the stripping hole in the direction toward the piece of the insulation you are removing. Just turn the stripping tool over than what you have it in the video. Makes it easier and neater.

HOLISHZT I HAD NO IDEA those crimp on ones shrink with heat too!!!!

In the.pass i have used.wire nuts. It does work fairly well then wrap with electrical tape. It will work in a pinch. It is cheap..

He missed one of the most important steps. Always wipe a soldier joint clean. Flux is corrosive when it turns that copper wire green you will start have a connection problem other than that very important step he is doing a nice job.

Your way “gravity” along with surface tension aids in your soldering

What size is generally used to fix wires?

You get greater surface area your way

Your V style of soldering will boil off the flux, and your joint will not be 100%, Its the truth!

Not bad

Not enough heat. You're forming a "cold soldered" joint. Continuing to "pat" the joint with the iron is only making the situation worse.

I usually use a rusty nail and cigarette lighter.

The problem with all these videos is that they are demonstrating soldering on the bench, they never show how difficult it is to do in a harness! On top of that, how can you heat up heat shrink when the join is in the middle of a harness surrounded by wires?

I like ur way better than mine. Very detailed. Smart helping hands u got there. I learned alot from this vdo. For people who don't have a heat gun, a lighter will work just fine for heating the shrink wrapped.

"The most correct way" or the least incorrect way? Lol!!

You did a great job. Only pint I’ll make is this...and it may have been covered already... Soldering is frustrating until it isn’t. It’s like anything else...just keep at it and pay attention and it gets easier. But at first...damn. It’s a pain in the butt

don't think you are supposed to fling hot solder.

You might want to stick with method two.

🎉 😢 m

poor demonstration, no flux???

I see the problem, your soddering, in reality you should be soldering pronounced sold-er-ring

horrible looking joint, please remove this video. bad way to show how to solder