HOW TO SOUND DEADEN & INSULATE YOUR VAN | Professional Tips & Tricks! 

Thank you!

We appreciate it! Maybe someday we’ll break into the big leagues

Welcome to my labor a tory 😂

It is definitely helpful. Our older videos had inconsistent sound. I appreciate you sticking with us!

Yeah it's easy to do when editing, if your system puts out good volume, you have nice monitors, and you're used to quiet sounds. Don't mix down your audio based on the volume you like it at, make sure that different systems can increase the volume sufficiently while also maintaining low noise at lower volumes... trade just a bit of fidelity for enough volume so that even those with less than ideal systems can still hear you.

That’s a great tip!

We don’t. Honestly if you roll out the sound mat you can’t go wrong. I shoot for %50 coverage on main areas and go heavier on wheel wells and doors. Insulation is easy too. Just do your main areas first. Use your scraps to stuff the nooks and crannies.

@@AVCRIG great thank you!

what happens if you overuse the insulation?

@@nichelles36 it just stuffs the spaces and makes it tough to install the walls.

I’d just tear up the thinsulate and stuff it in with a coat hangar. Sound would be too much trouble in those spots.

I rip up thinsulate and just stuff it in there. There are a few holes up high and in the corners that make it doable.

I think it’s ok. We be tried it once but to really get the right effect you need to spray a LOT of it on. At the time I couldn’t afford it.

About 40 ft

And how many cans of 3m 74?

@@AVCRIG So 2 rolls of 20’x60”?

I see it only comes in 60” widths so, 40’ makes sense, thank you.

@@wdbottom if you’re doing a full conversion I’d start with a case. (12) you’ll use them I promise.

I used it in my basement addition at home. Haven’t considered it for the van. How does it do with moisture?

Wouldn’t you want to apply Lizard Skin prior to any of it, and then follow up with Kilmat and Thinsulate? I’m curious about this same exact process. I live in FL where max reduction of heat transfer is going to be key :)

I’d apply lizard first then kill mat. The lizard is designed to be a radiant barrier the sound dampening is just for sound so it can go on second. Might be redundant if you apply enough lizard skin though.

I think you’re right. I tried lizard once and only noticed a small difference. I should probably try again.

While i used secondskin products (butil dampening and then spectrum/firewall layer) you use he butil layer first, then you can tape the seams or apply the liquid product over the butil aluminum layer, then your thinsulate. The butil layer as stated in the video is mostly the same for different brands, there was an experiment done that found its more the thickness of the aluminum layer rather than the thickness of the butil that makes the most difference in effectiveness of this layer. But it is a foam and/or mass loaded vinyl layer that blocks sound (in this case its the thinsulate layer) the dampening product adds rigidity and tweaks the vibration of large panels. While you do get more returns on more butil (like 100% coverage) there is a point of diminishing returns after about 60% coverage. The most efficient use, as correctly pointed out in the video is over large flat panels, in a checkerboard pattern, or otherwise not perfectly centered means the panels lose a balance of vibration modes which makes the layer more effective. So adding more coverage sill gives you gains it is far less the more you add.

Definitely. Always prep for best adhesion. Who knows what’s on there from the factory or your dealership.

Some doors do, it depends on what you order. I prefer the 270 opening doors. Like other manufacturers they also have a more simple opening door that doesn’t open as wide. I’m not a fan of wool insulation in my builds. If you like it use it!

@@AVCRIG But why no wool? Is the 270 available with the adventure package do you know?

Wool may seem all eco-friendly but it's not the most hygenic material to use in thie application. Wool fibers can hold moisture within the fibers and those fibers are slower to dry out than synthetic alternatives. But *you're better off not using any fibrous insulation (including Thinsulate) because all of them can and will hold condensation within the fiber matrix (even if - as with Thinsulate - the fibers themselves don't actually absorb water).* Refer to Gary's tests at 'Build A Green RV' for more info. Any fibrous batts or loose fill should be bagged to avoid migration. One of the most cost-effective fibrous insulations to use is foil-faced fiberglass duct insulation (e.g.: J-M Ecofoil), doubled so that the fibers are completely contained by foil on both sides & edges. If installed with proper air gaps, the foil also provides radiant barriers.

I’d do 3 boxes.

Is it worth it to get the 80mm or is it just overkill and a waste of money?

Pro tip!

Is that you, Killmat?

I think so…

In theory 80 will work better, but I think 50 is fine. If you’re insulating with Thinsulate then definitely 50

@@AVCRIG thanks for your response.

Moisture buildup possibly.

If you do the knock test you will definitely notice a difference adding sound dampening. If you’re happy with it, then there’s no reason to add more. I never trust the manufacturer to do the best job. Just “enough” remember these are designed as cargo vans not campers.

I definitely don’t recommend sealing it in.

@@AVCRIG Can you explain more to this noob (me!)?

Noted! Thank you.