You are making a good choice with the Fiskars Axe. You will make it split easier if you hit it on the far side EDGE. This makes the force go into the wood and it splits easier. I also put a bungee cord around the bottom outside so the wood go flying off and you spend so much time chasing it down. Don't worry if it doesn't split all the way across. Just go around the outside edge and by the time you get around to the starting point it will all be split. If it is big around like yours, you can cross split the center of the pie sections. It's all about getting the most pieces of firewood with the fewest strikes. I could send you a video if you will tell me how to get it to you.
Good work sir. I've been using a maul for larger rounds, but have switched now to using wedges & a sledge hammer, then splitting axe/maul to further breakup.
Really not a problem either way, i split them in half in a few swings, then walk those in from the edges in small pizza slices, and in the end bisect those slices for nice size firewood.
My dad let me beat on one of those big discs for about an hour one day, then he showed me the edge trick. I was 10, lol. I'm 45 now and prefer a log splitter. Ha ha.
Greetings from the Emerald Isle of Ireland 🇮🇪, I use a truck tyre with the inner walls removed,stack all your rounds inside the tyre,and just chop away until you have them all split, saves your back if time, make sure you have a solid base, happy splitting,🇮🇪🇮🇪
Stacking a log like that to split it is making the job much harder. You talk about the ground absorbing the blow if you don't stack it but the log is moving all over the place when you hit it which is where all of your energy is being lost. Clear leaves and debris and put those big ones directly on solid ground. Also is a bit safer because when you stack you can swing through and end up chopping you foot or shin. The X27 can do a lot better under better setup conditions, but the Fiskars 8lb would probably be the better tool to half or quarter giant logs.
I've hand split firewood all my life. Swinging a 6 pound wedge axe was fun and relatively easy. I'm 70 now and fairly sedentary most of the year. This year I'm cutting up some logs that didn't get to the mill. They consist of logs between 20 and 30 inches diameter of oak, hickory, black walnut and poplar. I cut very short, about 9 inches thick like he did. That makes it easy. I split them sitting on a stool. I use a small two pound hammer with little wedges made from old beat up solid body boy scout hatchets and a small ordinary wedge. The hardest part for me is man handling such large rounds. Any longer than 9 inches and they would be too heavy for me to lift into the wagon. I usually roll them around as much as possible. Sometimes I have to saw the larger rounds of hickory in two to get started or saw through any big knots. It's fun for me and doesn't require much exertion or effort. I have low lung capacity and get winded after just a couple of heavy axe swings. I started using a Makita battery powered saw with a 16" bar. It only weighs about 11 lbs with batteries and doesn't hurt my back. I can still cut up to 25-30" logs with it. Cutting 9 inch lengths the saw will cut as much as I dare pull out of the woods with a RZR side by side and trailer using only two sets of batteries. Makita uses two of their small tool batteries. Perhaps half or more pickup load. So even at 70 and out of shape one can still cut his own firewood. I just can't work so fast and furious. Although I suspect I could probably split up that straight grained maple piece he was working on in just a little more than the time than he took and I would breath normally while doing it.
I know what you mean about the reduced lung capacity . I got that copd they got me using two different inhalers if I need both. I dont split wood no more but it dont stop me from riding my harley
Goldwings are my style, but anything on two wheels is good. I've made over a dozen trips across country and been in every contiguous state in the US on a bike. Cutting with battery saw and splitting while setting on a cushioned stool I'm always breathing normally. The only time I get winded is loading the wagon. So a spread out the process. I buck two to five pieces load them and go back to cutting. Cutting is like resting, no effort. Many times I take a folding stool to set on while the saw goes through the wood and does the work.
@Planet Earth When you are retired you can work a little here and there and it is surprising how it accumulates. It's difficult to measure and estimate how far ahead I am now. Over the past two years of cutting on these logs I have access to, I think I may have well over 15 years of firewood. My challenge now is to keep it dry. I don't have central heat and rely exclusively on wood. I think I've got a lifetime supply if I don't live to be 90. (not much chance of that, ha) This last winter I didn't split the wood at all, I sawed it into 9 inch long blocks with my battery saw. The stacks of wood are very stable and neat looking. I had 6 yards of saw noodle mulch for my daughters landscaping. Makes really good mulch.
I just welded a heavy steel handle on an old maul head , it's a beast, certainly not user friendly but I can split 400mm knotty pine logs. And I cannot break it with a miss hit. Watch your shins !
I use a old maul head and a sledge hammer. Never has failed me yet, until I ran into some large fresh hickory rounds. Its like string cheese made of steel cable
Hickory is rediculously hard. I know what u mean. I know cabinet makers that have to replace all their blades and drill bits everytime they use hickory cabinets..
what you use is what we calle a splittingsledge .its a heavier edition of a normal axe.it does the same job but with less strenght as if you only use axe.
The Fiskars Maul, even though it is 8 lbs, I use to bust them to quarters, sometimes even more, depending on the sizes and hardness of the wood. Then I use the X 27.
Have you tried using a chain saw to plunge cut a cross shape into centre of the 30 inch log, then insert a large conical shaped dropped forged wedge and hitting it with a 15lb hammer to cause radial splitting ? Any thoughts, possibly more efficient and less hammering will be required.
Actually, I'd recommend splitting those rounds on the ground. The effort you put into lifting them onto your block (and moving them there in the first place) will wind up to be greater than the effort you lose through shock absorption to the ground. Those rounds are large-- their mass and their surface area against the ground alone are decent resistance to shock absorption. Plus, your block is too small for those rounds, and you lose some of the stroke of your swing by raising up your rounds. Once you break up those rounds into smaller pieces, then start using the block again if you feel you need it. Given a novice level of control over the tool, I'd recommend a block so you don't put your sharp new Fiskars into a rock-- but if you can keep the tool out of the dirt, then try splitting on the ground.
So this is my predicament, I am a total beginner on this and got the Fiskar 8lb, Maul, a neighbor just cut down a tree and the stumps are big like the double of the one you have and no cracks. How you would approach this effectively ... Today I took 2 hours to split the entire stump - thanks!
Sorry forgot to mention if use axe closer to the bark area you use less muscle or energy & the big rounds splits easier with less force by use a wedge helps alot
Miniscule amount of gasoline, oil and diesel are needed to heat with wood, if you got lots of trees nearby. The rest is just sweat. I use Stihl 241 C-M, Fiskars X25 and X27 plus trusty ol' 1965 Massey Ferguson 135 (AD 3.152).
Thanks for the video. Question, did you try chopping any of these on the ground? I have the same axe and I've noticed a few instances where I feel it's worked better splitting on the ground.
Yes! Seeing as how this video is going on a year old, I definitely worked out some better techniques since using it the first time. Thanks for watching and dont forget to subscribe!
The only thing I would have done different is lay it on that other big round that you have leaning up there then it wouldn't fall off so often, save you a little bit of work
That is only one point how to increase his work. Second one is to hit fron fresh cut side, it is easier - actually from bottom side. Third one is to hit this big round as close to edge as possible. Fourth way how to be more efficient is to try to split small pieces of wood from outer edge. Don't try to split so big round on half. Fifth rule - you have to have solid foundation due to elimination of energy losses - as you can see nodding and moving of the round. Sixth rule is to hit wood by full blade length - not by tip of the blade... Fiskars produce the best axes which I have ever had, but you have to respect some rules of splittig anyway. The guy in the video is more talkative as experienced in the problematics which is he talking about. My grandpa taught me and he had more than 50 years of PRACTICAL experiences. He would laugh at watching this comedy ;)
Tks for demo ive got fiskars & i love it But you do get some vibration vs wood handle has no vibration Stay safe from covy-19 ok 👍 from Toronto Canada 🇨🇦
Next time use a maul, and for that size I would use a 12lb. I usually swing a 10lb and it’s fun watching logs pop and spin in mid air once I get swinging
Would love to take a day and show you the easy way to use that maul. Not to be a dick. I sell a lot of firewood and I split it all by hand. Once you learn the easy way you just can't believe how well it works.
Thanks for watching! A lot of these people don't realize I'm putting my new axe "to the test". Grabbed the biggest round I had and went swinging at the middle to see what it was worth...
Maybe think about using a length of chain & a bungee cord to wrap around the wood before splitting. You'd spend less time chasing chunks & just unhook the bungee from the chain when you're done.
The implement that you are using is probably too light for heavy stuff like that. Speeding up the film makes it look easier than it is. A sledge hammer and wedges would be a good idea to start things off for splitting in half or quarters and then going onto the axe. You are using up a lot of energy for a relatively small result.
Precision is key. There were some nice cracks, but you need to hit them. Hitting near them won't do the trick. I find that just raising the Fiskars up and swinging it from a position above my head is more precise than swinging it all the way back over the right shoulder. Also, get a bigger stump/block or you will loose too much power to the round wobbling around.
Swinging above the head is far dangerous then what he is doing he is using an old method we’re is right hand starts at the head of the axe and he slides it down to his other hand giving the axe more momentum for it to have a strong solid hit
@@riftbeast9473 Dangerous - how? What could possibly go wrong? Clearly, he lacks precision, and that can't be obtained when you are moving the maul around in a circular motion.
Palle Kjær Laursen also keep your elbows in. If you keep your elbows in you can raise the head to the point where it touches your back and still stay on point. If your elbows are out the maul will control you
Just a few things that could make it a lot easier a big base splitting block a quality splitting wedge and a 3 1/2 to 4 1/2 pound small hammer put the wedge in on an edge and pound it through for your main split and then just grab a 6 lb Maul and have at it much easier.
Thank you for the demonstration. Personally, I believe a maul would work better. With the maul, I hit the center of the log and either it splits clean or is partially split, maul still in the log. If the log is on the blade tight, pick up the maul and swing it with the log beine what you slam into a splitting log. The weight of the log and the maul normally finishes the split. CAREFUL - make sure the log being split is tight on the blade and don't bring the swing over your head.
Another tip, use your knees and keep your elbow in. Keeping the elbows in keeps the head of your axe/maul from wandering, while using your knees will generate MUCH more power and keep your back from hurting the next day. I have a weak back and use a 10lb all day and I can tell you, when I use my knees with my back those smaller rounds thst are taking your four to five whacks usually only take me two st the most?”, most of the time it pops the first time and one time I saw one piece jumpnupnmidair, spin, then drop straight like a stone, it was funny
Living Lenny btw. When filing you might want to show how much damage the tree does to the edge. What I mean is, show the before and after on an edge to really show how tough that wood is. I usually split ash and I went cheap with a maul and I have to tell you, if I could take my money and invest it, I would have invested in a better made maul. Those no name mails that I bought sucked. Lastly when buying wedges definitely look at the taper and the make. Those Chinese wedges suck because the taper is to wide and it doesn’t bite the wood right
Maul-axe as sledge hammer for a wedge - easy split first then maul axe alone to make each piece working around the edge...impressive though you got it to split at all with just that axe! Good workout!
Rounds that bif I'd be splitting on the ground. Save your back because the little ground absorbsion those huge ones have isn't worth lifting up onto another.
Splitting Firewood has been called a "Family Farm Workout!!!" LOVE IT!!! I agree. I just started splitting at 65. It is fun, fascinating and...Addicting. Oh yeah, it is good cardio!!! "Family Farm Workout!!!" Yes!!! Which reminds me that I need to get a heart monitor like the kid comparing his 30 lb maul to a Fiskars X 27 had on in his first videos. My first go round with big rounds... One day, I tried one with a homemade very heavy, dull, dangerous maul. But I Did it!!! Next day I tried another, then another, then a third. You get the picture, between the cold weather, dehydration, lack of sleep, stress...I about killed myself over the next three days from way overdoing it!! It took me down to feeling like I did the day after I got out of the hospital after heart surgery. I laid in bed for a week recovering. Oh, safety, yes, while I AM getting a good workout, I can't remember how many times I have come close to hurting myself with the Splitting Axe!!! I would love to try a Splitz All someday and demo it for my subscribers. I have been doing a long series of videos on Splitting Firewood because my channel centers around my mission in life, which is to help make life survivable for many families who leave city life behind and must find a way to heat with wood. Splitting Firewood will be crucial to staying warm and cooking during the winters facing them. Here is my playlist: "Splitting Firewood With Mauls and Axes" ru-vid.com/group/PLsEWVATMY6q35P7vOFoZvqZCfK8sLzZeT Here is my series on Splitting Firewood: "Reinventing The Wheels: BOTH Jerry and The Log Splitters" on ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-H-LwOCR5Exs.html
Don't do this!! Use two steel wedges placed (off center, away from heartwood) along a diameter line or best crack. Then after 4-6 hits with an 8lb sledgehammer, you have your halves, then using a single wedge go for your quarters, eighths and sixteenths. THEN, pull out each "radial wedge" and then use your Fiskars to split each wedge into three or four pieces, hitting (once!) along the concentric growth ring lines. No exhaustion. Boom.
try taking your hammer or mallet taping your ax placing it on the edge of the wood pointing toward the middle 15 times. No sweat or hard breathing just getting the job done.
Um, I know this is really late but, I prefer no chopping block, that's just me. It's easier for me back I don't have to keep lifting the log back onto the block over and over. Even thought it's harder to hit it while it's on the ground because, like you said the ground absorbs the blows. BUT your strikes get more and more powerful the more you do it.
Also, a strong swing always needs a strong core to control the swing, and a strong core means you live longer, the harder you work the more healthy you will be if you know how to take care of yourself.
Why put it on another block, the ground is better, it’ll give you a little more length on your down stroke. Also the trick is to get an eye for the best place to hit and get really good aim.Missing your target by as little as an inch can make the difference between a split and a wasted stroke.
Actually there is no warranty if you break it. It only covers defects in their workmanship. ''Fiskars products are warranted to the consumer purchaser to be free of defects in material and workmanship for as long as the consumer owns the product. Warranty does not cover sharpening, normal wear and tear, environmental factors, accidental damage, misuse, industrial/commercial use.'' I just bought one after watching a guy wack the neck against a tree full force approx 100 times. Zero damage. Finally used a shotgun. 1st round just grazed it. At this toughness who needs a warranty.
6lb jersey poll , 6lb maul, 2 steel wedges , thats my log splitter. And rail splitter outfit. " If i ever spent a hour swinging my axe i spent 3 hours sharpening it" Abraham Lincoln
Hard Work = effort applied. no lack of that. big rounds require that , what I do and it works good for me, use the chainsaw to cut a shallow line about 1 inch deep in that natural crack you pointed out, accross the log, use wedges to bust it in half, then use the Fisker's to finish,,, only criticizing comment from me, is to use one of the other big rounds as a chop block, you lost alot of the force of your chop strikes to the fact the round moved , downward , as you hit so hard it was trying to flip over, you are a strong man, let physics help you make the most of it.
Thanks for the tips.... Kinda hard to explain things... ...w/o talking ... spank that log w the Fiskar...I have 3 sizes of them. Very nice axes $10 gets their Sharpener which is sweet!!
I have an X27 and I split 19-20 inch tall rounds of Ash, red oak and walnut that are 16-24 inch diameter. I always start at the edges and work my way to the core. In place them in an old tractor tire, on the ground. You're putting too much work in it.
I've got a big ol tire in the background somewhere for just that purpose but it's only a 16 inch diameter rim so this guy wouldn't fit. Thanks for watching and dont forget to subscribe!
@@Locallandscaping save your back and adjust your stance. Feet straight to round, swing straight down from over your head. Your left foot forward stance places unequal strain to your right lumbar. Plus, your stance here actually pulls your axe toward you at the end of your swing. You're hitting log with far corner of your blade. I split 6-7 cords per year, all by hand.