He's driving a car that's going to auction, we don't even know if it's his or not. And he has a classic car dealership, over 100 on the lot. Can't keep everything maintained 24/7.
You got a classic V8 as a first car...? Idk if I'll have a car before I get a job, and even if I was like 26, even then a first car shouldn't be that powerful, right...?
Remember the 1970's commercials with the Shell Answer Man. He said once its flooded, floor the gas pedal to let more air into the carburetor as you turn the key and start the car.
@@kelsycunningham8452 I can see how in a desperate situation like the apocalypse you would prefer it, but as of now, fuel injection is just better in every way. DPFI has issues with carbon build-up for sure, but MPFI has you covered in cleaning valves and delivering better power than carburetors and much better fuel mileage.
@@EmilyRose900 anything shy of an emp wiping out all electronics I'm going fuel injected. Hell I'd go mechanical fuel injection before going to a carb...
If it's got a auto choke, and it set correctly, one pump to the floor, then hold it half way. No turn the key. Should fire and run on fast idle. Wait two mins. Kick it and it'll settle on idle Three pumps an you'll flood it.
@@stev838 nope, if it was hot when you shut it off, the choke is held open when it cools down until you activate the choke by flooring the pedal once. This is true for every unmodified factory auto choke.
@@bigblockjalopy right And if it’s cold the choke is closed. ?Long time ago seems like the electric chokes closed As I recall my termo quad would close as it cooled But that was many years ago sooooo My old Carter’s would snap it shut when you stepped on the gas. I set mine up so you did not have to pump it. If you did it was like rudely waking a little monster. I liked to let it spin a half turn and it would set at 650 rpm. Seemed better than spinning up a dry bearing All gm never ran fords
U shouldn't have to pump it 3 times. The automatic choke should set on the 1st pump on a cold start when it's ❄️ outside. Especially if the choke is set correctly!!
Ehh If you own a carbed vehicle you should get comfortable tuning one where I'm at it can be 100+ in summer and 0 in the winter I tune my truck about 6 times a year but I love barely touching the key and it firing right to life no weird foot business required if it doesn't just start its time to tune it again vacuum gauge and a timing light are your best friends
So I feel like I'm pulling out the only person that's going to say this but that fuel is not atomizing in the intake just sitting there, there may be some vapors forming but no atomization going on there once the fuel comes out of the injectors / throttle body / Jets/whatever you want to call the delivery system in a carburetor when there is not a vacuum being pulled as a result of a running engine
This guy delivers a load made for morons who have the money for all the cars I used to own but know nothing about them. Just a handful of performance cars were manufactured without a choke and if the carburetor and choke is working correctly one quick pump should get the engine going and the high idle system and choke should do what he said a person should do. Keep it running above idle speed, but not at 1500 rpm, until the engine is warm and a blip of the throttle takes it off high idle.
Maybe you're the only one saying it, but definitely not the only one thinking it. Gasoline sprayed into the intake of a car not running atomizes? This is some car guy. That's what I was thinking. I still cannot believe he actually said that.
Wrong wrong once started let oil circulate at idle 5 min then idle up 600 rpm ... I been working on Cars 60 years you never have a car that Stone Cold at that high of RPM this guy is nuts I can show you some engines that's damaged from stupidity like I said let it idle for 5 minutes at slow idle and then bring it up to about 600 to 700 RPM everything needs to warm up uniformly especially a vehicle from 1985 back to Model T
@@viewer7138i would rather waste a gallon if that much ..and not ruin a $10 k $ 15 k original engine ..and let come up to temperature ... calm down karen
I grew up having the adults hate carburetors and I wound up with 2 of them the year it gave me extra greaf starting up I rebuild everything and then I got almost a year with zero issues and 1 pump maximum and they started up
To the OP, then why have auto manufacturers used *automatic* chokes that give high idle for cold starts going back to the late 60's gm for example started using auto chokes in 69 I believe. 350 L46 engine Factory fast idle set @ ~2300rpm give or take 100rpms or so.
@@Fastcarsslowwmoney oh for sure. A working e-brake is a must with a manual trans. Especially if you live in the mountains like I do, always parking on hills.
This isn't the end all be all way... I've had many carbs with many different personalities that you had to know what she liked... It would never have fired with your way...
Correct way to start a car with a quadrajet carburetor: First, push the pedal all the way to the floor/wot=wide open throttle slowly one time. This will set the automatic choke. Second, turn the key on, start the car. Do NOT touch the gas pedal. Car will start and come to a fast idle, if the carburetor is set correctly. As the motor warms up it should come down from fast idle, if it doesn't tap the gas pedal and it will come down to normal idle. Every time you push the gas pedal you are making the accelerator pump squirt gas in to the intake. If the car gets flooded, it needs more air. Push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and hold it there, this will open the butterfly's and let air into the intake. Turn the key to start the car, as it starts gently let up on the gas pedal and let the car warm up. If you have a owner's manual read how to start your car. Alot of info in a owner's manual, read it, most people do not. Especially with newer cars, they have a lot of features that you will not discover with out reading the manual.
A carb that's set up properly (automatic choke tension, accelerator pump, vacuum choke pull off, etc) should take 1 pedal to the floor and up, remove your foot from the pedal. It should start immediately, as in quicker than any fuel injection system on a cold start. If the weather is freezing then 2 pumps will suffice. 3 or 4 pumps at -30 or -40. If the engine has been running previously in the day, say 3 or 4 hours earlier it should start just by turning the key. But then again I could be wrong. If you have to pump that much fuel into the intake something isn't right as in lack of choke action or possibly weak ignition.
I alway just pumped twice, and then held the pedal to the floor until it started and then feathered it until it warmed up enough that it could idle 😂. Works on my 1953 Studebaker and on my 1977 Airstream Argosy lol, both will fire up instantly.
Once I was able to memorize roughly 1700 rpm by heart I just hold it there for 1-2-3-4, then start it, it heaps up to 2000 rpm and is immediately held at 1600-1700 by my foot just being there stationary. Any thoughts?
My mopar starts and sounds like NASCAR cold. This problem is apparently linked to not correctly installing the intake manifold on rebuild .My Torino same crap Face it Ford Windsor Cleveland Suck bhalls
Not my carbed daily driver square body. One pump to the floor to set the choke and fast idle cam linkage. Crank on the ignition, and she fires up Immediately most days. Let er run on high idle for a minute or two. Kick er down, and away she goes. Yes it works on 15° cold days too.
I remember I was walking in New York early one morning. I could smell the gas. This young girl in her 20s. Flooded her car. She keep pumping the pedal. I stopped and asked can I help you. She got out of the car and just looked at me. I used the old trick. Put the pedal to the floor and let it turn over. It started within a minute. She was happy and I was happy.
Well done, Peter. Amazing I remember how this used to be common knowledge for anyone that drove a car, up until around the late 80s. I'm not getting old, am I? 🤣
Old Carburated Ferrari's had the same issue! Infact, many Ferrari Mechanics Disconnected the Choke to STOP owners from Flooding the Engine! I owned a '69 Camaro SS 396 and a '79 Ferrari 308 GT4...this was the right way to start them!
You do that and you will destroy the bearings in your engine!! Never ever idle up your engine until the oil has had enough time to get circulated through out the engine. Extremely bad advise from this guy!!!!
Hey bud, uh, there ain't any gas "atomizing" in your intake while you wait. Maybe "evaporating". When you press that pedal 3 times, you will get 3 squirts of gas from your carb jets which goes directly into the barrel(s) of the carb, dropping into the intake as a liquid. Once it's running, the air coming thru the bowls creates a venturi effect and draws the fuel down with it, and even then the droplet size is too large to say atomized. Fuel injection atomizes. Also I have an A body with a Chrysler LA small block that you can pump infinitely without flooding. Figured out how to do this by accident. Wont share my secret but often show the proof IRL. Beautiful Mustang brother! 👍
If I did that with my Cobra it would flood like the Johnstown Flood. My Corvette wouldn't even make an attempt to start (before I put an electric fuel pump on), my Chevelle needed two pumps then two more pumps after cranking, a GTO I was working on for a while needed three pumps, wait a couple seconds and then two pumps after cranking, my 65 Cutlass was the same as my Chevelle, and both of my dads' 69 Z/28s you run the electric fuel pump, pump twice, crank a couple seconds, pump twice, then they fire right up. Every old car I own/have owned has its own personality and half the fun of owning them is I try every trick in the book while starting them until I find what works best. If I haven't started any of them for a couple months during the winter, then the process is completely different for all of them which also took figuring out through trial and error.
Waiting 10 seconds serves no purpose. The accelerator pump squirts the gas when you pump the pedal, the gas leaks down into the intake manifold, and that’s it. It will not “atomize”.
I've got a '65 C10 original with 283 V8. It's got a manual choke but I don't always need it, atleast all the way. Assuming it hasn't been sitting for months and months, one single pump of the gas then I leave it alone, cranks right up.
sounded like the Timing was off. I only have to do 1 or 2 pumps in my 65 mustang. then hit the Key & she fires up, my cold idle 1100 to 1300, dependant on outside weather. Electric Chokes are good.
What a nonsense. DO NOT pump, just depress the pedal ONCE to set the choke. This is how these cars were started when new, Look in your owners Manual. Works for me for 34 years without problems. Pumping wastes fuel and wears out engines.
Neighborhood has a 67 Chevy. 396 with a ridiculous holly carb that has been rejetted to many times to count. Trying to talk the old guy into dumping the holly for a more streetwise carb.
If it's been sat a couple of hours prob has dry fuel bowls with modern ethanol fuel, so your just pumping air. If mechanical fuel pump. A few cranks first, stop, pump start. Trick if you flood. Hold foot to floor and she will clear her throat 👍❤️
My father has a 1957 Corvette with a built 350 Chevy small block and a 420 mega blower from B&m All he does is he turns it over until he sees fuel pressure on the fuel line gives it a couple pumps and it starts right up and idles perfect.
My 66 ford galaxie500xL. 1 pump to set the choke and every time. Fired right up. Though i admit. Many old worn cars needed the right touch to get them to start easy.
My 74 dart swinger has a manual choke built into the pedal push it to the floor before you crank it to set the choke then turn her over and she’s purring
3 pumps would've flooded EVERY carbureted vehicle I've owned, from my slant six Volare to my 390 powered Monterey. A properly tuned carb needs only to have the throttle depressed enough to close the choke. Hell, my 83 C10s visor says half a pump then crank 🤷
ONE pump, not even a full one, more like a bump. A soon as it fires give it another and the electric choke should be in position. If you flooded it, hold the pedal down while cranking it over. It takes a minute and sounds like garbage, but she'll get there 😮
My squarebody chevy with original 350 starts every time, no pumping the gas required and it starts instantaneously. My wife's toyota sienna takes forever to start.
My truck has something going on with the fuel line where after you start it it keeps slowly revving up and then you need to pump the gas and it goes back to normal but slowly revs up again. Can you explain what’s that’s about?
EFI is nice but the old Carb is simple Yes at 29 drug the EFi will premix the air fuel for that quick start like computer jet or turbine engine starts But you just can't beat the carb system when it comes to smiple no electricity sensors
It's irritating to me seeing people cranking and pumping the pedal repeatedly over and over , hold the peal down so the butterfly is open now it's getting plenty of air to fire all that gas in there .
I always set up my chokes to be held fully open with slight pressure at operating temp. For example, on my 55 Chevy I pump the gas once and the choke is set and it starts without touching anything else faster than a modern car.
Dump the cards and go with ITBs with fuel injection. Ez to start ,better mileage ,cleaner emissions and sound sick at higher revs. It can also be return to carbs ez when time to sell it.
Been a long time since this was common knowledge? Had to think about for a sec. before 3 pumps and wait just a little bit and hit the key. I remember the difference from the car's that had power brake and the one's that didn't.
Um, pumping the pedal without cranking the engine at the same time does nothing. The fuel pump is mechanically driven. Even if you convert to an electric fuel pump you still have to have the key in the "on" position.
Nah it's turn key to on position, pump gas 2 times hit the key for a Ford any Ford with carbs. Splitting hairs I know but we don't need Canadians spreading misinformation down here in the states. Wish your show was still on it was a good one
Step on the gas twice first time closed the choke second time gives more fuel in the carb. Start it and the choke should be closed raisins g the idle until it warms up itself and idles down. You can also kick the throttle by stepping on the accelerator very quickly and releasing. If it doesn’t idle down it’s not ready to idle down. My next tip is to get rid of the carburetor and install Sniper fuel injection. It’s a piece of cake and that stink when the weather gets cold is gone too. I hate carburetors.
I disagree . If your car is tuned right and has good gas and weather is ok than all you should need is a very light tap on the accelerator pedal and a short pause before ignition is attempted. Too much gas just washes the cylinder walls free of of oil if you flood it . Don’t do that. No pumping three times is needed . I ran a Holley card w electric choke and put the factory 4 bbl in a box in the garage after removing it and draining gas out of it for safer storage. I did not run multiple carbs but friends who did and had three deuces or two fours learned to just lightly tap the pedal thereby having carb add a tiny amount I’d gas spay into carb or carbs. Less fuel wasted and less gas into intake manifold and to oil pan.
We used to do ours 2 pumps , That way the gas run down like you say in the intake and into the piston cylinders , Gave it like 5 seconds and that baby would fire right up every time
Pontiac's you could press to the floor 1 time slowly and let off. That would set automatic choke. Once it warmed up just tap throttle again to release choke
Having worked on Fords and switching carbs on my Mach 1 a few times, I suggest to you a Holley 4 with electric choke , stock jets and no modifications to vacuum hoses at all . The slightest of micro leaks in the vacuum lines from intake will goof up your performance and fuel economy. Run Supreme fuel if possible. I found AF42s and Bosch plugs seemed to be the best two types for my 351C and for a friend’s 67 GT 289 -only engine mods was a very mild choice Ford parts catalogue cam, Edelbrock intake, and headers and old school Dual point distributor and Accel coil . Chuck’s car started with a blip on the ignition switch every time . No pumping pedal and excess cranking
I'm just wondering how the fuel atomizes in the intake when the intake has no vacuum. Turn key to on pump twice crank repeat till it idles on its own, if it won't idle cold on its own choke or check carb tuning
What he should have said. This is how you start your classic car, when it's not set up right. If you have to fully pump the gas a few times and let it sit before you start it. Your carb is not tuned.
