If you want to whine away the hours, you could polish the surface with ever increasing fine wet and dry sandpaper and give it a final buff with a polishing compound and use a Dremel buffing bit. If you have an airbrush, decant the lacquer into the mixing cup for more control.
My car Brake fluid is the same as power steering fluid, can it do the job ? Also is it save for tiny plastic parts, i cant afford to risk or damage my project ?? 🙏
u got to be kidding me i bought 4 1993 toyota supras but messed up because of lack off prep and tryed paint thinner, denature and differnt chemicals to get it off but lead to all of them ruined and u telling me i can just do this, man but thank u for posting this now i wont have a problem in the future like 👍
Best video to date. I made a mistake and took the advice of another video and used Simply Green. The odor makes me sneeze and it doesn't work. Off the get some alcohol.
I need to do this also. Rattle cans you need to pour warm water in a bowl and let the can sit awhile. Then shake the crap out of it and put the paint on in mist coats. Over time. Very slowly. The time frame is up to you. It just needs to set up. Practice Practic Practice...
I am about to strip down a 1:25 scale Trumpeter American LaFrance Eagle Pumper fire engine body that has alot of paint mistakes.. The model is sort of expensive, (I paid almost $85.00 for it 3 yrs ago) and was wondering, does the 91% IPA cause any damage to the plastic? My biggest fear is, submerging it, coming back in an hour or so and finding soft spots or holes eaten in it. I'm redoing the rig and kit-bashing/scratch building a heavy rescue walk-through style body for it with flashing lights, sound and possibly miniature RC componants depending on how it turns out. Gonna be my most 'complicated' rebuild to date.
Wow. Sounds great. I have soaked model cars in it for a few days from several different manufactures with no damage to any plastics but I always recommend trying on something you can live without just in case.
That's good tip using 91% isopropyl alcohol. I am gonna probably test out a few other types of strippers as well, I know Easy off yellow oven cleaner does a good job at stripping chrome off parts
I used denatured alcohol to strip mine. Took about 3 hours of soaking and the paint (MCW enamel with hardener) and clear coat slid right off the car. I tried the super clean overnight and it would not remove the clear coat. The denatured alcohol removed the clear and the paint as a single unit. Right back down to the primer (Tamiya)
I have tried this on a lot of different paints and I have not have it not work on anything yet to include primers and clears. If you want to test it on something, paint some sprue and see if it takes the paint off.
Hey, Chris here.....great video BTW, very helpful. I have a Camaro hood(oddly enough) that has Mr. Surfacer 1200 rattle can grey primer & Tamiya gloss black paint lacquer from the rattle can also over it & it's been sitting in Purple Power for just about a week now with no results. I'm thinking Purple Power weakens over time which is why it's not working. Do U think if I use 91% or 99% Isopropyl alcohol, I can get the paint & primer off without any damage to the plastic hood? I need to do some sanding after the paint & primer are off & re prime & paint the hood obviously........I'm not a fan of Mr Surfacer primer at all........any info would be helpful........thanks so much!!!!!!
I have left parts in the alcohol for several days with no damage to the plastics. You should start to see it working in about an hour if it is going to work at all. Give it a shot and see what happens.
@@ScaledDownCustoms funny U said that, I put my hood of my kit in 91% alcohol last night & I already got all the paint & primer off & it’s ready for fresh primer & paint......... awesome!!!!!!!! I thank U much, speak 2 U soon!!!!!!
I find purple power works better in warmer weather i had the same problem a few times when its cold out because i leave it in the garage in the summer i put it outside in the sun or is it me just thinking it works better
Yes, this is polystyrene. I have not tried resin but I would think that it would work just the same. Try a small piece or put a few drops on it to see if it reacts to the resin to be sure.
Well, just wanted to update my progress,, the 99% alcohol just barely soften the paint,, so I went with the Graffiti Remover, which soften the paint to like a sludge to smudge off with a rag. It worked, but it was messy and left dark smudges on white body. I may now try paint thinner to wipe it up. Other than that, I can now prime and paint my color.
How would this work on a botched paint job on an engine block that has been glued together?....I didn't do any prep work and the paint I used did not bond
Depending on the paint, it should take it right off. You will know if it is going to work after about 15 minuets. Just try it and see if it works. I have never had it damage any plastic parts.
Hey there.. do you know how to remove an over spray on a clear plastic ..? I spray on window trim and the paint somehow leaking through the masking tape and ruins the window
I have used this method for clear parts with good results as well. If the clear parts are already installed you can try some alcohol on a q-tip or cotton bud. You can also try a little more aggressive method by using a high grit, like 5000, sandpaper and then polishing the clear back out.
Would this remove glue or cement causing parts to separate if it was a complete model? I want to remove the paint on a tank of mine but I am worried about parts coming off.
The paint will only need an hour or so to strip and it will take a lot longer than that for it to start affecting any glues. It will not affect glue super (CA) glue but does weaken two part epoxies. The epoxy began to be affected around 24hrs.
I don’t have experience, with stripping, but I can say with fair certainty, that it will not affect liquid cement, used for polystyrene. The cement differs from CA glue, in that the CA glue remains there between two parts, holding them together. The liquid cement, causes a chemical reaction, with the plastic, causing it to soften, which permanently welds/bonds the two plastics together. I see this comment was from nine months ago, but just in case, I hope this helps
Okay, I decided to try it. I've started by just doing a couple of hoods. I know neither was primed before painting so there's just color. I've checked them periodically and it's very slow going after about 16 hours. I've got to learn patience. Will I be moving on to Super Clean? We'll see.
Yes, sometimes it can take a while. If you are seeing that it is starting to work a little then leave it in longer. If you are not seeing any change after the first twelve hours then this method might not work for that type of paint.
It was a lacquer base paint over a Tamiya primer with Tamiya "rattle can" clear coat. I think it was a Tamiya paint. I have also used this method for Tamiya paints, water based primer, Tamiya primer, Mr. Hobby primer, 2K clear and Scale Finishes paints. It has a harder time removing solvent based primers where the parts have been sanded but with a little extra work those primers come off also. I have not had any issues with it harming the plastic so you just have to try it.
I just use general drug store brand and as high % as I can get but if all you can get it 70% then just use that. It might take longer but it should work.
Hi, I try to paint the plastic model of the Titanic, the yellow line in the hull with Tamiya spray and I don´t know what happen, was a disaster. My fear is if the Isopropyl Alcohol can make any damage to the plastic. I don´t know how can do because the Titanic hull have 1.30 mts long. Trumpeter model is expensive for lost. Thanks.
I have not had the Alcohol damage any plastic parts as of yet, nonetheless, I would test it for your peace of mind. If you have any sprue left over, put some paint on that and place it in the solution. If not, put a drop or two in an inconspicuous place and see if it damages the model.
I think you are not aware of using the ultrasonic cleaner method, those machines they use at eye glasses shops to clean your glasses. Fill the tank of the machine with any kind of thinner or paint remover, put the painted model in the machine, and within 30 seconds of ultrasonic vibration, the model will be as clean as the day you bought it, before you even put a drop of paint on it. It really is magical.
I have tried that. You just have to be carful that the machine is capable of holding thinners or anything else you put in there without damaging the machine or any of the parts, like the basket.
I tried it using paint thinner and acetone and they both started melting the plastic holding tray. I tested the isopropyl alcohol on the tray and it seems to be working fine. I will try it using isopropyl alcohol next time. Thanks for the idea.
video's old ik but is this safe to do after putting on parts using tamiya cement without damaging parts? (i used the wrong paint thinking it was a primer ((used tamiya ps-1 white))
I have not had the alcohol damage any parts yet, but I always suggest testing unknown processes. Just put a few drops on a part and you will know right away if it is going to work or not as it should start reacting with the paint right away.
I think it will. You could put a few drops on it and see if it starts to rub the paint off. I have tried it on the clear plastic windows that come in the kits and it did not hurt the plastic at all. But I always recommend testing it first to see what reaction it will have.
You're not doing anything wrong, it might be the type of paint. I have found that if it doesn't start working within an hour, it is usually not going to work. This method does not work on everything. I know a lot of people have had success with using brake fluid.
From what I understand, depending on the type of plastic, break fluid could soften the plastic and make it bend or make it brittle and may snap in half very easily.
I am shocked.. I can't believe the alcohol worked for you. I tried it on a white body which someone painted in black, and the 99% isopropyl alcohol didn't work, even afterleavingit soak from one day to the next. I recently purchased "Lift-offs Graffiti Remover, which has shown the ability to soften paint so it can be removed. But I am glad for you however. I am almost tempted to try it again..
@@ScaledDownCustoms I gave it another try with alcohol, but, its not to my expectations. It made the paint soft, that I could scratch it off with alot (too much) of elbow grease lol. . but did not entirely come off. So I rinsed parts and started spraying them with Lift-off Graffiti Remover. Now this stuff works better, on contact,, but again, it softened the paint to the point you can wipe it off with a rag. But it also involves work. At least it doesn't damage the plastic.. Its tedious man, I'd rather toss entire model out, than to endure this.. and yet I'm doing it..😆 🤣
I have left a body in the solution for several days with no damage to the plastic, but if it does not start working within an hour then it is not going to work, so there is no reason to leave it in that long. You can always test the sprue pieces. I always recommend testing if there is a concern.
How long does it take to work in comparison? I have a plastic logo for my Guitar Amplifier Cabinet that was painted and I want to restore it to original. It is only about 15" Long x 2" tall by 1/4" High. Thanks in advance!
So I managed to F* up my Mustang, Its big and hard to paint. So it doesnt have primer (I have been modelling for over 5 years, maybe more or less, this year I bought primer and omg Its The best) and it has spray Blue (metallic) and spray clear (propably 1k) The color went on ok, but The clear is... unaccepteable, So will this strip off both clear and paint? And will 100% ipa work? Also Its 1:12 scale (~40cm long maybe? Its So big that it is hard to paint) Oh and Also can I reuse The stuff? Like remove paint and pour back in The Bottle
I have had success stripping off my 2K clear and paint. I have not used 100%. I have never had this method damage any parts yet. You will just have to try it to see if it will work. I have been using the same liquid since I have started, so yes, rebottle and reuse.
It is going to be a different kind of paint. This method does not work on all paints. Some guys have had luck with brake fluid for the other kinds of paints.
I have tried several different parts and so far the rubbing alcohol has not damaged any parts. If you have some old sprue you can put that in whatever solution to test it out. If you do not have anything like that, place a drop on an inconspicuous area and see if it damages the plastic. I always recommend testing to ease peace of mind.
It might not. Just have to try it. You will know if it is going to work or not within about 15min. If it does not work, guys have been having luck with brake fluid on some of those other paints. Just keep an eye on it.
You just need Easy Off, a Ziploc bag. Put plastic part inside, spray it, leave it overnight zipped. Next day, wear rubber globes and safety goggles, use and old toothbrush or poly fiber dish brush ($4) to remove paint, rinse it with water, done deal.
